Construction

As with all kits, especially with a Skill Level 3 such as this, arrr, we read t' instructions completely BEFORE we did anything. Avast! There are always a few steps in t' assembly that can be 'shuffled' about t' make t' build more efficient.

T' kit starts with t' MMT assembly. Aye aye! Aye aye! Standard 18mm thrust rin' and hook assembly with t' Keelhaul®©™ attachment point. Ya scallywag! T' centerin' rings can be a little tricky at first t' hold t' alignment, matey, me hearties, me hearties, but actually will be a quick and simple process t' complete. Make sure they are square and test fit everything.

T' next step will be t' insert t' MMT assembly into t' BT.

T' last picture in t' sequence shows t' upper section o' t' BT with a layer o' CA brushed on it and sanded smooth. T' BT material is very thin and flimsy in this kit. Avast, me proud beauty! T' carpenter’s glue will draw t' paper in unless you apply very minimal amounts. More pictures o' this effect on t' BT will be seen later in t' build. Begad! I may try t' apply CA before I insert a MMT t' see if it still has t' same drawin' effect in t' future on a different build.

On this page o' t' instructions thar be t' ghost image o' t' fin alignment pattern. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! O' Note: thar be no markin' on a pattern for t' launch lug anywhere in these instructions. Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Now is a great time t' make this observation and allow for one. Also you might be inclined, me hearties, as I have a habit o' doin' this myself, shiver me timbers, t' mark your BT for fins before you glue in t' MMT…. WAIT! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' MMT will help hold t' very thin BT in shape for a nice marking, otherwise your lines will drift and nay be perpendicular.

I found it very handy t' have an empty pickle jar around t' set components on t' dry throughout this build. Ya scallywag! It is great when dealin' with t' engine hook and t' nosecone assembly when you get t' that point. Ahoy! Avast! After this assembly dries in t' down position, set it into t' jar which will rest on t' aft CR allowin' for a nice hands-free fillet t' be applied t' t' upper section.

After you have this all assembled, arrr, arrr, marked, and set aside t' dry, the fins become t' next priority.

I changed t' order o' progression after readin' t' instructions completely. Avast! I started t' fins and nosecone first as they have multiple phases o' "coat and let dry" techniques.

Usin' t' tried and true "stack and sand" for t' balsa fin prep I moved on. Begad! T' next steps, ya bilge rat, accordin' t' t' instructions, me bucko, are t' start gluin' t' fins on and applyin' fillets. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Although this will work, me bucko, shiver me timbers, arrr, I don't suggest it and didin't do it. Well, blow me down! Avast! Instead, matey, I worked backwards as do many other builders out there. Begad! After t' stack and sand, me bucko, I use a sandin' sealer, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, applyin' 2-3 coats on each side o' t' fins (yes, matey, I let each coat dry completely first), me bucko, and then I lightly sanded them off with a 220 grit paper before attachin' t' t' body tube.

Note: T' instructions suggest usin' watered-down wood filler as a coatin' for t' fins after they have been attached. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! This has already been done if you use sandin' sealer. As far as t' attachment o' t' fins with alphatic (carpenters) glue, thar will be some shrinkin' o' t' fillets. I use t' watered down filler t' smooth these fillets, nay as a primary coatin' on t' fin itself.

For fin attachment, I followed t' order as stated in t' instructions. For gluing, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I personally prefer (it is just a preference and mainly for time savin' purposes, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, but I digress) a different technique as well. Begad! I lightly scuff t' line where t' fin will attach with 220 grit sandpaper and use CA (super glue) on t' root edge o' t' fin for attachment t' t' paper tube. Begad! I then follow this up with a fillet o' carpenters glue and then t' watered-down filler t' even out t' glue shrinkage on each fillet.

Now, movin' on t' t' nosecone assembly. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! It is foam, arrr, me hearties, ya bilge rat, so be careful with it and be patient. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Blimey! Assemble t' shoulder rin' and cap as instructed. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Set aside t' dry. Well, blow me down! Blimey!

You will be next instructed t' attach t' t' nosecone. Ahoy! I did nay do this until after t' majority o' me fill work and sandin' be done on t' foam. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

For t' foam capsule, I used t' thinned down filler and brushed it on liberally. Avast! Actually, I started with it thick and then used a damp brush t' smooth it off and spread for t' first coat. Well, blow me down! Then I sanded with 220 and repeated until thar was a nice even coatin' on t' entire exposed foam surface. With t' amount o' coatin' and sandin' required, I worked on this as t' rest o' t' assembly was in progress.

The two pods, matey, or small nosecones, must be cut in half and coated as well. Well, blow me down! Well, arrr, blow me down! I only coated t' exterior surface as these will be glued t' t' main capsule as boosters later. Well, me bucko, blow me down! Once I had a shell o' filler, me bucko, I moved on t' addin' t' bolt t' t' top, markin' t' boosters, shiver me timbers, and gluin' them t' t' surface.

Once these were added, another coat o' t' dampened filler was applied and smoothed t' shape. Ahoy! T' shoulder coupler be then glued t' t' base o' t' capsule as instructed and set upside down in t' pickle jar t' dry.

Finishing