Brief:
This is a skill level 2, shiver me timbers, parachute recovery, me bucko, 24mm motor scale rocket. Ahoy! Back when I was in engineerin' school, ya bilge rat, I was told that if you really wanted t' test somethin' out, abuse it in every way possible and see how well it fares. Blimey! Well, blow me down! You learn t' weak points that way. T' folks at InFlight Rocketry® must have much t' same general philosophy because I was contacted a few weeks ago and asked if I would be willin' to test out one o' their new rockets. Aye aye! Word must have reached them from SHE WHO MUST BE OBEYED that if you want something to really be messed up, ya bilge rat, Ol' John's just t' guy who can do it. They must have great confidence in their product because they have trusted it t' me ham handed efforts.

T' Nike Smoke arrived quite quickly. It be well packaged for protection and, upon openin' t' box, matey, I found a nice lookin' plastic package with an attractive face card and what looked t' be good quality components. I was ready to get started right away but life had other ideas. Begad! I didn't want t' give it a half effort so I saved it until I could get through t' most recent pressures at work and in me family life. All t' while, t' poor little thin' sat on me desk, beggin' me t' come out and play.

Construction:
I opened up t' package t' find that various component groups were sealed into their own little sub-packages. Avast! I liked that and it helps t' keep things organized. Begad! In addition t' t' instruction sheet and copy o' t' NARRRRR code, t' packaged contained t' following:

• 
• A beautifully turned balsa nose cone
• BT 60 body tube
• BT 50 motor tube
• (2) centerin' rings
• Eye screw
• Engine hook
• 36" length o' Keelhaul®©™®
• 18" parachute kit that seems t' be a Themal Rider from Hartle Engineering
• 3/16" x 2" launch lug
• Engine block
• 1/4" x 24" elastic shock cord
• (4) laser cut balsa fins
• #5 barrel swivel and snap
• 1/8" x 1/6" x 2" balsa strip
• Waterslide decal sheet
• Patterns are printed in t' instruction manual

Construction begins with t' motor mount. Ya scallywag! A section o' BT50 was marked 1/8" from each end. Begad! Begad! A slit be cut at t' forward mark t' accomdate t' engine hook which was then inserted. Maskin' tape was used t' wrap t' tube at t' centerline and hold t' hook in place.

Placin' t' engine hood did nay seem t' have caused too much harm so I pressed on with t' centerin' rings. There are two and they differ from each other. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! T' aft one has a notch for t' engine hook cut into t' inner edge. Begad! Avast! Blimey! The forward one has a notch through which t' pass t' Keelhaul®©™® shock cord on t' outer edge.

Both rings fit perfectly within t' main BT and around t' motor mount. No sandin' be needed. I slipped them both into place at t' marks made in t' first step and glued them with yellow glue, filletin' t' forward edges o' each. Arrr! Ahoy! I will come back and fillet t' after edges when t' glue has a chance t' set up.

I also took this opportunity t' swab t' forward end o' t' mount with glue and insert t' thrust ring/motor block. Again, matey, arrr, it be a perfect fit and no modification be needed.

T' next step in t' instruction is t' fit t' eye screw into t' nose cone. Begad! T' screw be well sized and heavy enough t' make me comfortable. Avast! Avast! I dislike tiny ones. Blimey! Ya scallywag! I screwed it in and then removed it. I put a dollop o' glue into t' hole and then screwed t' eye back in and left it sitting upright t' dry.

T' fins for t' Nike Smoke come precut. Blimey! Begad! There is no need t' punch them out. Only a little sandin' is needed t' ready them for attachement, unless you want t' give them a scale like profile. Arrr! I was plannin' on usin' this rocket as me first forray into a sport scale competition. Blimey! Begad! As such, me hearties, arrr, arrr, I decided t' use t' optional instructions and attempt t' sand t' profile. Oops. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I marked t' root edge 5/8" from either side and t' outer edge 1/8" from either side. I then applied tape as a straightedge from t' t' root t' t' outer edges, me bucko, top and bottom, matey, both sides. I was countin' on t' tape t' keep me honest and me lines straight. Begad! What I should have counted on was me inability t' judge "straight" and me inherent laziness t' subject me t' problems o' me own making.

Not wantin' t' spend t' rest o' August sanding, ya bilge rat, I thought I would use t' belt on me bench sander. Aye aye! After all, me hearties, I just had t' hold t' fin straight and let it remove a little bit o' material in a wedge shape up t' t' tape. Therein lies t' problem. I held it neither straight nor did I remove a "little" material. Arrr! I came very close to butcherin' t' first fin beyond repair before it sunk in that this was what we in Texas call a BAD IDEA.

Plan B involved usin' a sandin' stick. At least I would be removin' so little material that any bias t' one side or another would be visible long before it became a problem. Arrr! I can be such an ignorant optimist at times. Arrr! On t' second stroke, arrr, me bucko, I learned that I had removed way too much material under plan a and shredded t' edge o' t' fin beyond recognition. Avast! Arrr! It seemed t' disolve into sawdust and fine chips.

LET ME MAKE CLEAR THAT THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH THE KIT. Blimey! Aye aye! I messed it up personally.

Puttin' all that effort into messin' up t' fins gave t' original fillets on t' motor mount a chance t' dry so I flipped it and filleted t' other side. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! When that had set up, I used a timber hitch t' fasten a Keelhaul®©™® loop around t' motor mount and re-filleted above t' Keelhaul®©™® to lock it into place.

Not havin' anythin' further t' do, I decided t' put the 18" parachute together. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Normally, I would have discarded any plastic parachute kit but I did nay do so for 2 reasons. Ahoy! Avast! I am tryin' t' build this stock, arrr, as t' buyer would be expected t' do and it comes stock with a plastic parachute.

T' other reason I am usin' t' stock chute is that me suspicion was confirmed when I opened t' parachute kit. Begad! Blimey! It is a Thermal Rider from Hartle Engineering®. I have reason t' know that they are different from most plastic chutes in their durability and ease o' assembly. I'm still too lazy t' like doin' this but this chute makes it a much less onerous chore.

When t' fillets on t' motor mount had set up, it be time t' insert t' mount into t' BT. I test fitted it first and found again that t' fit be perfect. Avast! No sandin' be needed. Blimey! I used a long swab t' pur a rin' o' glue around the circumference and slid t' mount in until t' end o' t' motor tube was even with t' end o' t' BT. I then filleted it with glue.

InFlight® was very accomdatin' and understandin' and sent me a set o' replacement fins. Well, blow me down! While I was waitin' for them t' arrive, matey, I experimented with t' remainin' 3 from t' original kit. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I tried a variety o' methods includin' settin' up jigs, countin' strokes and darin' me stepson t' do a better job. In t' end, I suppose t' results are a combination o' all the above (except t' stepson). Avast! I did use t' tape as a stop guide but it ultimately came down t' a sandin' stick and the eyeball.

T' kit comes with a wrap around markin' guide for t' fins and launch lug. I cut it out, wrapped it around and found it t' be a perfect fit. Begad! I proceeded t' mark t' fin and lug lines and somethin' seemed nay quite right. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! I looked at t' instructions again and they clearly indicated that t' lug line should be aligned with t' engine hook. Ahoy! I had seen that but forgot about it. Arrr! I untaped and re-did t' marks, producin' what I like t' call t' inkblot camo pattern. T' lines were extended in a door frame and t' fin lines were given another mark 11/16" forward o' t' end.

In stead o' doin' t' lazy man's CA approach t' attachin' t' fins, I used a double glue joint usin' yellow glue. I applied a bit t' t' root edge, ya bilge rat, pressed t' fin in place and then immediately removed it. I let it almost dry and then added a touch more glue and pressed it into place. Avast, me proud beauty! Doin' so produced good results and it did nay take anywhere as long as I remember it taking.

When t' fins had stiffened up, I laid t' rocket in a cradle and began t' apply fillets t' them. Avast! While t' first pair were drying, me bucko, matey, I cut t' launch lug and t' lug standoff in half and glued a piece o' lug t' each standoff. Blimey! Aye aye! When I rotated t' rocket for t' next pair o' fillets, me bucko, ya bilge rat, I used a length of rod t' hold t' lugs straight and glued them into place on t' BT.

With that, me hearties, thar be nay much left t' construction. Ahoy! I tied t' elastic on t' t' Keelhaul®©™® and t' t' nosecone. Arrr! I slipped t' snap swivel onto t' elastic, attached t' chute and stuffed it in t' BT. I then put t' cone in place and admired it. Begad! Avast! Nay too bad, even after I had wreaked havoc upon it.

PROs: good lookin' kit that can be well executed even by a dunce like me
CONs: bevelin' t' fins can require effort and teeth gnashin' but that does nay detract from t' kit. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! It is just a fact o' life.

Finishing:
Finishin' began with a coatin' o' Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler®. I brushed down t' fins and t' nosecone and let it dry. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! I decided t' reserve judgement on spiral fillin' until the next coatin' o' sealer so I can see if t' spirals are worth t' effort.

When I sanded off t' filler, arrr, I used a fairly aggresive paper, me hearties, arrr, #180, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I think. Ya scallywag! Arrr! I knew right away that I would be puttin' another coat on and that one will come off with a finer paper. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Let me hasten t' add, this is nay a reflection on t' quality o' t' balsa. Far from it.

T' beauty o' t' NC was readily apparent right from t' first. After t' first sanding, it was only more so. Well, blow me down! I resolved at that point t' go whole hog and fill t' spirals as well. I mixed up another batch o' filler, fairly thin this time, and applied it t' t' NC, shiver me timbers, me bucko, shiver me timbers, fins and t' t' spirals. Aye aye! Ahoy! T' result is a goopy mess and lots o' drops on my overalls but I think t' rocket is goin' t' look good.

T' filler had a couple o' days t' dry and I began sandin' again. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! This time was with 400# and t' finish is smooth. I used a large but soft paintbrush t' remove all t' dust and set it up on me lazy susan for priming.

Without thinking, matey, I grabbed an 18mm casin' t' hold the rocket. Avast! When I went t' insert it, I thought, shiver me timbers, "Wow!. Ya scallywag! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! I forgot about that. This thin' is goin' t' scream on a 24mm. I hope I get it back."

So I grabbed a 24mm casin' and set it up. Blimey! I then began t' primin' process with Kilz®. I recently read a suggestion on a TRF thread that when usin' Kilz®, you should wait at least 24 hours t' sand, even though it is dry t' t' touch in just a few minutes. Avast, me proud beauty! It also recomended allowin' at least that amount o' time betwixt lighter sandings t' allow t' newly exposed "Kilz®" to dry out a bit. Based upon me past experience, that is probably a good idea. I decided t' try it on this rocket since I want it t' come out perfect.

T' extended wait t' sand t' Kilz® paid off. Avast! Avast! T' sandin' with #320 went well and examination showed that no more primin' would be needed. Ya scallywag! Thus it was time to paint t' white.

I gave t' rocket an thorough but nay too heavy coatin' o' white paint. Aye aye! Blimey! About an hour later, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I gave it another coat. Blimey! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! I could see thar would be placed that would need sandin' but it was lookin' good so far.

T' white came out lookin' pretty good. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I used some #400 sandpaper t' erase a couple o' rough spots and it still looked pretty good. Ya scallywag! That bein' t' case, I masked for the yellow fin.

I used Rustoleum® flourecent yellow. Well, blow me down! I did nay like t' looks after t' first coat, me hearties, it had a "dayglo" look t' it but I kept going. Begad! Begad! With successive coats, me hearties, t' color got richer and more natural looking.

Maskin' for t' red fins was a bit more tedious but not difficult. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! When all was in place I used a scrap o' balsa t' press down all t' edges o' t' Frog tape, set t' rocket up in t' booth and started sprayin' t' fourecent red. Avast, me proud beauty! I gave everythin' a coat and then reapplied in about a half hour.

When t' tape came off, it looked good. Ya scallywag! I be very happy. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Now t' t' decals.

T' decals are simple. Aye aye! T' consist o' 2 "United States", 2 cradles and 3 hatch covers. Even so, I managed t' mess them up.

Part o' this be me lack o' clear thinkin' in preparation. Begad! I looked at t' photo in t' instructions and oriented me rocket t' same way. Well, blow me down! I then applied t' first "United States". Aye aye! I waited a while, rotated it 180 degrees and applied t' other one. Well, blow me down! I applied it in t' wrong direction. If t' rocket is sittin' in t' cradle, t' text should appear right side up; one o' mine is upside down.

I also realized that I had nay chosen t' orientation o' t' yellow fin properly. Begad! Blimey! As a result, me bucko, t' launch lugs are visible from a direction I would rather they were not. Ya scallywag! I pressed on, however and applied t' cradles. Ahoy! Ahoy! One o' them is a bit out o' line even though I could swear that it looked right when I was placin' it. Avast, me proud beauty! By t' time I noticed, me hearties, though, ya bilge rat, it had already gripped.

T' last o' t' decals were t' hatch covers on t' nose cone. Blimey! Blimey! They went on without any problem.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
It took a long time betwixt completion o' t' build and an opportunity t' fly but t' wait be worth it. Ahoy! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! T' rocket was entered as part o' an informal sport scale competition at me NARRRRR monthly launch. Aye aye! It got good marks in t' static judgin' but then I had t' prove it worked. I loaded it up with a C11-5 and set it on t' pad. Well, blow me down! Arrr! When me turn came, it boosted straight and true t' an extremely high altitude; I could barely see it. Arrr! Arrr! T' chute deployed and I realized that I was goin' t' have a ways t' walk. Fortunately, shiver me timbers, me hearties, me hearties, an excited young little lass be eager t' do me walkin' for me and t' rocket came back without any damage. When it came back, one o' t' other competitors was amazed t' see that t' nosecone was of balsa.

My original intent was t' try a D12-7 next but I thought better o' it based upon t' performance with t' C. Aye aye! Blimey! I decided t' try a newly made 18mm adapter and loaded a C6-3. Ahoy! Blimey! If anything, matey, this flight was even better than t' last and the drift was correspondingly far. Blimey! Blimey! It became a rocket t' be picked up when we drove away. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Again, arrr, shiver me timbers, thar be no damage.

PROs: great performer
CONs: can be easily lost because it is a GREAT performer.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a great rocket in terms o' construction, me bucko, flight and finished appearance. Avast, me proud beauty! It takes a little patience t' get it right but t' patience is well rewarded.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5