Descon 7 Tintinique Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Tintinique {Scratch}

Contributed by Darren Longhorn

Manufacturer: Scratch
tintinique

Tintinique

Tintinique

OK, so it's nay exactly t' right proportions for Tin Tin's rocket, shiver me timbers, me bucko, far too squat and stubby, but that's why it's called Tintinique. Avast, me proud beauty! Just As diamonique isn't diamond, Tintinique isn't Tin Tin. Begad! ( Anyone who doesn't know what I'm talkin' about here, me bucko, ya bilge rat, needs t' watch more QVC!)

time capsule

Nestlé time capsule

time capsule forward view

Centerin' rin' in position

Time Capsules

In October 99, I attended K-Lob in Lincolnshire. Amongst t' rockets thar be somethin' very different. Begad! It looked like a 50's retro rocket. Arrr! Blimey! It be great. Ahoy! Aye aye! How on earth did they make t' body for that? It turns out, shiver me timbers, that durin' t' run up t' t' millenium celebrations someone at Nestlé thought it would be a good idea t' produce a time capsule in which people could bury stuff, and dig it up in t' future. Bein' Nestlé o' course they sold it full o' sweets (candy for those o' you across t' pond). For some bizzarre reason known only t' t' designer, matey, t' capsule itself, was made from a shape resemblin' t' body o' a typical sci-fi or cartoon rocket. Avast! Better still, t' screw-on lid was easily convertible into a removeable nose cone. Whoever it be I'd love t' ask them why they did it. Avast! I buy two, one for a podded Tin Tin rocket, matey, t' other for spare.

Anyway, matey, me bucko, time passes and every time I go t' a launch thar's another time capsule. Ahoy! I've got t' build this thing. Avast! Blimey! I decide t' build it for RMR DesCon6. Time passes. Begad! Blimey! DesCon6 begins. Aye aye! Blimey! Time passes. Arrr! Blimey! DesCon6 finishes. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! UKRA 2000 approaches, and I realise that t' rocket I intended t' take, Accusatory Finger o' Suspicion, ya bilge rat, isn't goin' t' be ready. I dig out t' time capsule. Ahoy! I dig out cover scans o' t' books Destination Moon, matey, and Explorers on t' Moon. I wonder how on earth I'm goin' t' make t' fin pods.

I ignore t' question o' t' fin pods, and start t' think about t' body instead. Time capsules are cheaply moulded, arrr, arrr, thick in some places thin in others, shiver me timbers, and very flexible. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I had decided that it be t' have a 29mm motor mount t' utilise t' short 29mm casings I had, and so t' body would need t' be reinforced. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! It needs an internal body tube, t' give structural strength and provide somethin' t' attach other components to, matey, arrr, leavin' t' time capsule t' form only an outer shell. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I had some 3" plastic tubin' that I had got from Ziggy at K-Lob, arrr, and this seemed ideal. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Blimey! I could have used standard 3" PML phenolic, ya bilge rat, or even quantum tubing, but I didn't have any.

In order t' fit t' internal body tube into t' time capsule I hacked off t' screw thread at t' open end, arrr, and hacked a 3" diameter hole in t' base. T' openin' at t' top o' t' time casule be larger than 3", so I cut a 3mm thick plywood centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, and glued it in place, under t' shoulder. Avast! T' plastic tube now fits snugly at both ends.

sketches

T' preliminary sketches

rocksim plan
 
fin pod plan

View full size

Design

I still don't know what t' completed rocket will look like, so I draw some rough sketches, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, then some rough, dimensioned sketches. My son, ya bilge rat, James, draws some sketches. Blimey! I'm nay really gettin' anywhere. Begad! It's all free hand and nay very satisfactory. Ahoy! Rocksim! T' time capsule is suprisingly easy t' describe usin' a parabolic nose cone, me bucko, and a couple o' eliptical transitions. Now, shiver me timbers, Rocksim isn't really designed for this shape o' rocket, and so I'm nay goin' t' trust what it says about stability, arrr, but at least it helps visualise what t' rocket will look like when complete.

inner body tube

Inner body tube, motor mount

inner body tube

Inner body tube, parachute bay

retaining nuts

Aft centerin' ring, matey, shiver me timbers, retainin' nuts

retaining clips

Aft centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, retainin' clips

Construction

Motor Mount & Retention

I do have a short piece o' PML 29mm motor mount. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! I had originally intended for t' motor mount t' run t' length o' t' body, arrr, with t' space for a parachute betwixt t' internal body tube and t' motor mount. Blimey! It doesn't look like enough room for a chute, me hearties, and anyway I don't have enough motor mount for t' full length o' t' internal body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! So, matey, I decide t' have a short motor mount, shiver me timbers, arrr, givin' t' full internal diameter o' t' internal tube for a parachute. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I cut two, 3mm thick, plywood centerin' rings that fit over t' motor mount and into t' plastic tube. T' forward centerin' rin' has a notch t' pass a nylon strap. Begad! T' strap is about25mm wide and 400mm long. T' nylon strap will provide an attachment point for t' elastic shock cord. T' strap is t' epoxied t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube. Ya scallywag! Throughout construction I use 5 minute or two ton Devcon epoxy.

T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied t' t' forward end o' t' motor mount and allowed t' cure. Well, blow me down! Begad! T' aft cebterin' rein' was fitted, with no epoxy, t' t' aft o' t' motor mount. Begad! T' forward centerin' rin' was epoxied into t' internal motor mount. Once t' forward centerin' rin' be fixed, t' aft centerin' rin' was removed. Ahoy! This gives access t' t' inside o' t' internal body tube, for filleting.

As I'm plannin' on flyin' with a 29mm RMS, me hearties, no thrust rin' is required. Arrr! Blimey! But I do need a retention system. Blimey! Blimey! I decide on a Kaplow Klip style affair. Blimey! Blimey! Two M5 nuts are glued t' t' forward side o' t' aft centerin' ring. Arrr! Blimey! Then a hole is drilled in t' center o' t' nuts, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, through t' centerin' ring, me hearties, takin' care t' use a small enough drill bit that t' threads aren't stripped. Once dry, bolts are screwed into t' nuts and through t' plywood o' t' centerin' ring. T' clips are made from aluminium, me hearties, bent t' shape by hammerin' them over, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, while held in a vice. Arrr! Blimey! T' unformed blanks were about 10mm wide and 35mm long.

tintinique

Fins & Fin Pods

Fins & Fin Pods

After much sketching, I eventually determine that t' most aesthetically pleasin' fin pattern (to me anyhow) is such that t' fins oposite each other on t' body form a semicircle, when viewed side-on. This neccessitated a four fin design, which be fine. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I reckoned I needed all t' stability I could get. Aye aye! It wasn't consistant with Tin Tin, me hearties, but what t' hey, artistic license! Given t' flimsiness o' t' outer shell, t' fins have t' be through-the-wall. Ya scallywag! In t' end I descide t' make them pass through t' wall o' t' inner body tube too. Blimey! That way they can be securely mounted t' t' motor mount. This means that all t' major structural elements are glued t' each other, arrr, givin' maximum strength.

T' more I think about t' fins pods, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' more they seem like a nose cone, arrr, but rounded at t' base, where t' shoulder would normally be. Begad! Begad! Blimey! I've had custom nose cones made before. I sketch a plan and get them made by Rockets & Things. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! I order five, one for emergencies! Blimey! They arrive within a few days, and I'm well pleased, shiver me timbers, exactly t' right shape, arrr, and all identical. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Blimey! But how am I goin' t' attach them?

rear view of fins

Rear view o' fins

fin mounting

Close up o' fin mounting

Fins on, stood up

Rear view o' fins

While I ponder this I cut out t' fins from 3mm plywood. Begad! Ya scallywag! I leave a large tab for through-the-wall mounting. Avast, me proud beauty! I'm still wonderin' how t' mount t' pods. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Shouls I try t' slot them and slip them over t' fin? Tricky. Ahoy! Cut t' fin t' t' shape o' t' pod and make a butt-joint? Trickier. Ahoy! Eventually I take t' brute force method and saw t' pods in half along their vertical axis. Aye aye! T' thickness o' t' saw takes about 1.5mm from t' diameter, measure at right angles t' t' cut. A little sanding, required anyway t' level t' cut up a bit, removes 3mm in total. Ya scallywag! When placed on either side o' t' fin, arrr, me hearties, me bucko, they are back t' t' original diameter. Blimey! T' pod halves are simply glued t' either side o' a fin with carpenters glue, clamped up and left t' dry.

Next step is t' seal t' balsa and plywood. Aye aye! I use several coats o' sandin' sealer, me bucko, arrr, with a light sandin' o' 120 grit betwixt coats. Arrr! Next I fill t' joins. Begad! Begad! I've tried all kinds o' filler. Well, blow me down! P38, shiver me timbers, arrr, shiver me timbers, specialist modelling filler, me bucko, Ronseal exterior wood filler all sorts, and they all smell terrible! I found t' P38 dries too smartly and sets too hard. Begad! T' modellin' filler is expensive and doesn't stick t' phenolic very well. Begad! I like t' Ronseal best, arrr, it was workable longer, ya bilge rat, matey, and easier t' sand, but heavy. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I like t' fill t' spirals in phenolic tubin' with this. In t' end I use t' specialist modelling filler because it's light. Begad! I don't need any extra weight at t' that end o' t' rocket! It takes a lot o' filler around t' join betwixt t' fin pod halves and t' fin. I apply a few light coats o' primer t' t' pods, me hearties, sandin' betwixt coats.

Fin Assembly

To allow for through-the-wall mountin' o' t' fins, ya bilge rat, I need t' cut fin slots in both t' inner body tube and t' outer body shell. Begad! Aye aye! I use a Dremmel for this with a disc cutter. Arrr! T' slots in t' inner body tube are true closed slots for strength. I reason that it will be easier t' attach t' fins t' t' inner body tube, before t' outer body shell is fitted. Well, matey, blow me down! If I do that I won't be able t' get t' outer body shell on, so I make those slots all t' way t' t' bottom. Blimey! This reduces teh strength, me bucko, me hearties, but t' body shell isn't really stuctural anyway. Aye aye! Avast! T' fins are slotted into place in t' inner body and epoxied t' t' motor mount. Ya scallywag! Epoxy fillets are made where t' fins attach t' t' motor mount, and on both t' inside and outside o' t' inner body. T' slots are longe enough t' stretch from t' forward centerin' rin' t' t' aft centerin' ring. This all adds strength, ya bilge rat, but weight as well. Finally t' aft centerin' rin' is epoxied into position.

Nose Cone

I need a coupler tube that will fit into t' plastic tubin' o' t' inner body. Ahoy! I don't have any, so make a short tlength from t' same tubing. I simply cut out a slot o' t' correct width t' reduce t' outer circimference t' that o' t' inner circumference o' t' opriginal tube. Ya scallywag! Begad! Is epoxy t' cut out strip t' t' back o' t' join for reinforcement. This tube is first superglued and then epoxied into t' nose cone.

assembled

Fully assembled

assembled aft view

Fully assembled, aft view

Final Assembly

Just in time, matey, I realise that t' outer shell isn't goin' t' be strong enough t' attach a launch lug to, without some form o' reinforcement. I cut a small rectangulat slot in t' side o' t' body shell. Blimey! I epoxy some plywood t' t' interior o' t' shell, behind t' slot. Avast! Begad! T' epoxy gunges through t' slot, me hearties, and I use it t' fix t' launch lug in place.

T' body shell slips on easily, me bucko, and is epoxied initially t' just t' forward end. Begad! Actually t' inner tube is glued t' t' centerin' rin' previously fixed into t' outer shell. Aye aye! Because t' aft and o' t' shell is flappin' about a bit, shiver me timbers, I tack it into place with CA. Well, blow me down! Then I apply a liberal application o' epoxy, arrr, shiver me timbers, t' t' aft end and also t' t' fin roots. Aye aye! Begad! Once it's all set, it gets sanded and filled. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' epoxy fillets in t' fin roots turn out a bit rough, so I rebuild t' fillets with Ronseal. Aye aye! Aye aye! Prime, sand, matey, fill, ya bilge rat, sand, ya bilge rat, primne, sand, me bucko, matey, fill, arrr, me hearties, sand, prime, sand. Arrr! Ahoy! Or somethin' like that. Avast! It's ready. I rub it down lightly with 200 grit wet and dry.

Swin' test

Because o' t' odd shape, I didn't trust t' stability factor given by Rocksim. In fact rocksim reckoned it wasn't stable by a mile. Begad! Ahoy! But you don't always need more than a calibre o' stability on a stubby rocket anyway. Avast, me proud beauty! I still reckon I need nose weight, but what t' use? Lead would be good, but where can I get it and how much is it goin' t' cost, I'll probably have t' buy it by t' yard! My eldest son, me bucko, me bucko, Shaun has t' answer, arrr, me bucko, doubloon o' t' realm. Ahoy! One pees are quite heavy for their size. Arrr! I add 200g o' weight t' t' nose. Rocksim says "marginal". Begad! Blimey! I decide that t' only way t' be certain is a swin' test.

Now, matey, this be t' biggest rocket I've ever swung test, and it turns out me garden isn't quite big enough, me bucko, nay when t' washin' is dryin' anyway. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! So I comandeer t' next door neighbours garden, because they're nay in. Needless t' say they came home durin' t' swin' test, me bucko, ya bilge rat, but they're used t' it by now. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Anyway I start t' swing, and it jumps into t' right orientation. Begad! Great. Well, blow me down! I do a few more sims, me bucko, usin' different motors, and it doesn't go very high. Avast! So I reduce t' nose weight t' about 100g, or t' be more exact 31p. Another quick swin' test and it's still good. Ya scallywag! Avast! I blue t' nose wight into t' nose with epoxy. Avast! Once t' epoxy is dry I realise that I have no where t' attach t' shock cord to. Avast! I drill a hole into t' nose weight, fill it with epoxy, and insert an eye hook. Aye aye! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Sorted.

primed

Primed

primed aft view

Primed, shiver me timbers, me hearties, aft view

painting

Painting

Finish

I had been primin' as I went along, so as soon as t' fin fillets were complete, me hearties, it only took another couple o' coats t' get a nice smooth finish. Begad! T' primer used throughout is Halfords car paint, me bucko, in t' aerosol cans. Avast! I also use Halfords for t' main colours. Blimey! Rover Diamond White and Volkswagen Mars Red. Ahoy! Seems appropriate really. Avast, me proud beauty! First I spray t' whole rocket white. Aye aye! I do about 3 coats, matey, lightly sandin' betwixt each. Begad! I had decided much earlier on that a full Tin Tin chequerboard was far too much work, me bucko, so I had scaled t' pattern down t' two bands, me hearties, o' four quadrants. Avast! First I masked off every thin' above t' fins, and painted everythin' below red. I also painted t' nose cone. Arrr! Blimey! T' red covered really well in only two light coats. Ya scallywag! Next I painted t' two red quadrants o' t' lower band. Arrr! So far so good. Ya scallywag! Arrr! T' red quadrants o' t' upper band were hardest, ya bilge rat, bacause it be hard t' get a t' maskin' tape into exactly t' right position t' make t' square corners o' red meet exactly. Arrr! T' maskin' be t' hardest part o' t' entire project. Ahoy! T' red paint crept underneath t' tape in certain areas, and in other areas t' tape lifted off some small areas o' white when removed. Ya scallywag! Avast! But I managed t' touch those defects up, and I'm pretty pleased with t' final outcome. Well, blow me down! It's t' best finish o' all t' rockets I've made so far. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It needs goin' over with 400 grit wet and dry and a coat o' lacquer applying, me bucko, but thar's no time. Ahoy! Arrr! UKRA 2000 starts tomorrow!

Flight Test

I use about 150mm o' Nomex® sheath over t' nylon strap, and a Nomex® sheet above that t' protect t' chute. Avast, me proud beauty! About 70mm o' 20mm elastic attach t' nose cone t' t' nylon strap. A 34" PML chute is atached t' t' elastic too. I decide upon a G104 blue thunder reload. Begad! It's only just a G, shiver me timbers, but it gets t' rocket movin' quick. Ya scallywag! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I reckon t' sooner I can get it up t' stable speed t' better.

It rains on Friday and Saturday, and I'm hesitant t' fly. Sunday is better, and I decide t' fly before I take up spottin' duty. On t' Staryrday I'd had it on a rod, and found it be a little tight, me hearties, me hearties, matey, but I had found a slightly smaller diametr rod, me bucko, which was perfect. I be pretty nervous durin' t' countdown, and we had a hold for a low flyin' aircraft, arrr, but finally, ya bilge rat, t' moment comes. Blimey! 5, 4, me hearties, 3, matey, 2, 1 ignition. Blimey! It's away! Great flight! It arced a bit after it left t' rod, but very smooth, ya bilge rat, no sign o' a wobble or instability o' any kind. T' ejection fired right at apogee, and Tintinique drifted slowly down, landin' approximately 40" from t' pad. Blimey! There is a little damage t' t' nose cone,I can't figure out if it happened in flight or on impact with t' ground, but I couldn't find t' piece chipped out so it probably happened in t' air. Easy t' fix, matey, ya bilge rat, next flight comin' soon...

primed

Nosecone damage

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