Description:
This is an approximate 2X scale-up replica o' the Estes Nike Arrow, me bucko, me hearties, with coloring and dimensions approximatin' t' model kit rather than t' real rocket. Ahoy! The model has a 24mm engine mount, me bucko, but can fly on as small an engine as a B6-4 with a removable engine adapter. T' parachute comes out t' top attachin' t' the nose cone, rather than separatin' at t' transition like t' original. Arrr! Arrr! This model is 34" tall, and weighs about 3.4oz. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! without an engine. Arrr! T' fin size and length are 2:1, but t' diameter is slightly less than 2:1 due to unavailability o' exact 2:1 diameter body tubes.

Parts:

• one 18" BT-50
• one 12" BT-50
• one 10" BT-55
• one 4" white plastic NC-50(the white one in t' Estes Designer's Special is perfect)
• three 55/50 heavy duty centerin' rings
• one 50/20 heavy duty centerin' ring
• one BT-50 body tube coupler
• engine hook
• shock cord
• clay
• 3/16" launch lug
• balsa fin stock
• Fin Pattern

Assembly:
1. Begad! Begad! Blimey! Glue one o' t' 55/50 centerin' rings part o' t' way into t' top o' t' BT-55 tube. This will be later used as a lip for mountin' t' transition shroud. Avast, me proud beauty! An optional Keelhaul®©™® shock cord could be attached t' t' forward centerin' ring, and later threaded through into t' BT-50 body tube under the transition shroud betwixt step 3 and 4.

2. Ahoy! Begad! Glue t' 50/20 centerin' rin' into t' 12" BT-50 tube 2 1/2" from t' rear. Avast, me proud beauty! This will serve as t' thrust ring. Glue t' engine hook into t' tube with t' front o' t' hook 2 1/2" from t' rear, and just behind t' thrust ring. Arrr! Glue t' remainin' two larger centerin' rings onto t' 12" BT-50 engine mount tube 1" and 2 1/2" from t' rear.

3. Ahoy! Begad! Glue t' 12" engine mount tube into t' 10" BT-55 tube so that t' aft o' t' engine mount tube is flush with t' BT-55 tube. Ya scallywag! Note that t' front o' t' engine mount tube will protrude out o' t' front centerin' rin' and BT-55 tube about 2".

4. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Glue t' BT-50 tube coupler halfway into t' front o' t' engine mount tube. Avast! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Glue t' 18" BT-50 tube into t' other half o' t' tube coupler. Blimey! Blimey! Check for straightness before t' glue sets.

5. Arrr! Choose thickness and strength o' fin material as desired. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I used 1/16" balsa for t' upper fins and 3/32" balsa for t' lower fins. Measure t' dimensions on t' fins o' an Estes Nike Arrow, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and double the dimensions, arrr, cuttin' out t' fins with grain pattern followin' t' leadin' edge o' t' 4 smaller front fins, and perpendicular t' t' root edge on t' 4 rear fins. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Make 2 paper transitions for a 2 1/4" long BT-55/BT-50 transition. T' dimensions o' t' shroud should be {small radius: 6.311"; large radius: 8.568"; angle: 27.84 degrees with some extra for overlap}. (Note: These calculational results were obtained usin' a shroud calc. Avast! program on Rob Blaske's home page)

6. Aye aye! Glue first one paper transition shroud, arrr, and after it is dry, shiver me timbers, a second one. Ya scallywag! Be liberal with t' carpenter's wood glue, ya bilge rat, as it is an excellent strength enhancer after it is dry. Aye aye! After t' transition shroud hardens, the glue will shrink and ripple. Well, blow me down! Sand down any edges and ridges, then fill in the ripples with undiluted Elmer's Fill & Finish, sandin' t' desired shape and smoothness.

7. Make a BT-55 fin markin' guide for 4 fins and a launch lug, ya bilge rat, and mark t' body tube all t' way t' t' front o' t' BT-55 tube. Make a 4 fin markin' guide for a BT-50 tube, and mark t' tube just forward o' the transition with t' front fins in line with t' aft fins.

8. Put pin holes in t' body tubes and t' root edges o' t' fins for increased bondin' strength, and glue on t' fins.

9. Begad! Finish t' t' desired smoothness with Elmers F&F.;

10. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! Prime and sand. Paint t' aft tube and transition shroud gloss white. Begad! Blimey! For a better lookin' orange, shiver me timbers, all areas that will be orange should have one coat o' white. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Mask t' section that will remain white, and paint t' rear fin section as well as t' front fins and t' entire 18" o' t' BT-50 tube gloss orange. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Do nay remove t' maskin' over t' white section, arrr, as it will be easier t' mask for t' chrome layer. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Mask and paint t' middle section o' the forward tube chrome, matey, shiver me timbers, leavin' t' front 4" orange. It be just more masking work than I wanted t' do t' paint t' transition shroud silver, arrr, so I left it white.

11. Avast! If a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord was nay used, shiver me timbers, glue in a traditional paper shock cord mount with a 3 foot shock cord.

12. Begad! Put enough clay in t' nose cone t' keep t' CG forward or in the middle o' t' front fins with t' largest engine intended t' be used. Prime and paint t' nose cone if required. Well, blow me down! Add decalcomania as desired.

13. Blimey! Attach shock cord t' t' nose cone, me bucko, attach a 14" parachute, and prep for launch. Well, blow me down! Ahoy!

Flight:
Dependin' on final weight, t' maiden flight should be on the smallest engine advisable, ya bilge rat, and work your way up. Ya scallywag! For me 3.4oz. model, ya bilge rat, I first used a B6-4, which flew straight and stable t' about 150 ft. Arrr! It then flew to about 300ft on a C6-5. Well, matey, blow me down! I haven't tried a D engine yet, as I need a bigger field. Begad! Well, blow me down!

11/99 -
1. It flies great and straight on a D12-5 t' about 1000ft. Arrr! Blimey! However, since I did nay do through-the-wall fin mounting, ya bilge rat, and I had forgotten t' do a glue fillet on one fin before doin' an Elmer's Fill-N-Finish fillet, me bucko, shiver me timbers, one lower fin ripped off durin' flight on a D. Blimey! T' Fill-N-Finish does nay work like glue! There was enough other fins t' keep t' rocket stable. Avast! I recommend cutting slots for t' lower fins and modifyin' t' fins t' be through-the-wall.
2. Ya scallywag! I realized after publishin' that I forgot t' mention launch lugs in t' instructions. Use 3/16" lugs and glue them on just before finishing, me bucko, one down by t' engine and one just below t' transition. Well, blow me down!