Manufacturer: | Scratch |
Description:
This is an approximate 2X scale-up replica o' the
Estes Nike Arrow, with coloring
and dimensions approximatin' t' model kit rather than t' real rocket. Arrr! The
model has a 24mm engine mount, me bucko, ya bilge rat, but can fly on as small an engine as a B6-4 with
a removable engine adapter. T' parachute comes out t' top attachin' t' the
nose cone, rather than separatin' at t' transition like t' original. Arrr! This
model is 34" tall, and weighs about 3.4oz. Avast, me proud beauty! without an engine. T' fin size
and length are 2:1, shiver me timbers, arrr, but t' diameter is slightly less than 2:1 due to
unavailability o' exact 2:1 diameter body tubes.
Parts:
Assembly:
1. Begad! Glue one o' t' 55/50 centerin' rings part o' t' way into t' top
o' t' BT-55 tube. Ya scallywag! This will be later used as a lip for mountin' t' transition
shroud. An optional Keelhaul®©™® shock cord could be attached t' t' forward
centerin' ring, and later threaded through into t' BT-50 body tube under the
transition shroud betwixt step 3 and 4.
2. Glue t' 50/20 centerin' rin' into t' 12" BT-50 tube 2
1/2" from t' rear. This will serve as t' thrust ring. Glue t' engine
hook into t' tube with t' front o' t' hook 2 1/2" from t' rear, and
just behind t' thrust ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Glue t' remainin' two larger centerin' rings onto
t' 12" BT-50 engine mount tube 1" and 2 1/2" from t' rear. Begad!
3. Ahoy! Blimey! Glue t' 12" engine mount tube into t' 10" BT-55 tube
so that t' aft o' t' engine mount tube is flush with t' BT-55 tube. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Note
that t' front o' t' engine mount tube will protrude out o' t' front
centerin' rin' and BT-55 tube about 2".
4. Avast! Well, blow me down! Glue t' BT-50 tube coupler halfway into t' front o' t' engine
mount tube. Glue t' 18" BT-50 tube into t' other half o' t' tube
coupler. Avast! Check for straightness before t' glue sets.
5. Avast, me proud beauty! Choose thickness and strength o' fin material as desired. I used
1/16" balsa for t' upper fins and 3/32" balsa for t' lower fins.
Measure t' dimensions on t' fins o' an Estes Nike Arrow, and double the
dimensions, shiver me timbers, cuttin' out t' fins with grain pattern followin' t' leadin' edge
o' t' 4 smaller front fins, matey, and perpendicular t' t' root edge on t' 4 rear
fins. Avast! Ya scallywag! Make 2 paper transitions for a 2 1/4" long BT-55/BT-50 transition.
T' dimensions o' t' shroud should be {small radius: 6.311"; large
radius: 8.568"; angle: 27.84 degrees with some extra for overlap}. Arrr! (Note:
These calculational results were obtained usin' a shroud calc. program on
Rob Blaske's home
page)
6. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Glue first one paper transition shroud, shiver me timbers, and after it is dry, me hearties, a
second one. Avast! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Be liberal with t' carpenter's wood glue, matey, as it is an excellent
strength enhancer after it is dry. Ya scallywag! After t' transition shroud hardens, arrr, the
glue will shrink and ripple. Begad! Sand down any edges and ridges, then fill in the
ripples with undiluted Elmer's Fill & Finish, sandin' t' desired shape and
smoothness.
7. Make a BT-55 fin markin' guide for 4 fins and a launch lug, matey, and
mark t' body tube all t' way t' t' front o' t' BT-55 tube. Ya scallywag! Make a 4 fin
markin' guide for a BT-50 tube, arrr, and mark t' tube just forward o' the
transition with t' front fins in line with t' aft fins.
8. Avast! Aye aye! Blimey! Put pin holes in t' body tubes and t' root edges o' t' fins for
increased bondin' strength, ya bilge rat, and glue on t' fins.
9. Ya scallywag! Finish t' t' desired smoothness with Elmers F&F.;
10. Prime and sand. Paint t' aft tube and transition shroud gloss
white. Avast, me proud beauty! For a better lookin' orange, me hearties, all areas that will be orange should have
one coat o' white. Mask t' section that will remain white, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and paint t' rear
fin section as well as t' front fins and t' entire 18" o' t' BT-50 tube
gloss orange. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! Do nay remove t' maskin' over t' white section, as it will be
easier t' mask for t' chrome layer. Mask and paint t' middle section o' the
forward tube chrome, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, leavin' t' front 4" orange. It was just more masking
work than I wanted t' do t' paint t' transition shroud silver, shiver me timbers, arrr, so I left it
white.
11. Ahoy! If a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord was nay used, glue in a traditional paper
shock cord mount with a 3 foot shock cord.
12. Put enough clay in t' nose cone t' keep t' CG forward or in the
middle o' t' front fins with t' largest engine intended t' be used. Prime and
paint t' nose cone if required. Add decalcomania as desired.
13. Ahoy! Ahoy! Blimey! Attach shock cord t' t' nose cone, ya bilge rat, attach a 14" parachute,
and prep for launch.
Flight:
Dependin' on final weight, t' maiden flight should be on the
smallest engine advisable, shiver me timbers, arrr, matey, and work your way up. Ya scallywag! For me 3.4oz. Begad! model, ya bilge rat, me hearties, I first
used a B6-4, which flew straight and stable t' about 150 ft. It then flew to
about 300ft on a C6-5. I haven't tried a D engine yet, as I need a bigger
field.
11/99 -
1. Ahoy! It flies great and straight on a D12-5 t' about 1000ft. However,
since I did nay do through-the-wall fin mounting, me hearties, and I had forgotten t' do a
glue fillet on one fin before doin' an Elmer's Fill-N-Finish fillet, one lower
fin ripped off durin' flight on a D. Begad! Ahoy! T' Fill-N-Finish does nay work like glue!
There be enough other fins t' keep t' rocket stable. Avast! I recommend cutting
slots for t' lower fins and modifyin' t' fins t' be through-the-wall.
2. Avast! Begad! I realized after publishin' that I forgot t' mention launch lugs
in t' instructions. Use 3/16" lugs and glue them on just before
finishing, one down by t' engine and one just below t' transition. Aye aye!
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