Description:
This is an approximate 2X scale-up replica o' the Estes Nike Arrow, with coloring and dimensions approximatin' t' model kit rather than t' real rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! The model has a 24mm engine mount, but can fly on as small an engine as a B6-4 with a removable engine adapter. Ahoy! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! T' parachute comes out t' top attachin' t' the nose cone, rather than separatin' at t' transition like t' original. This model is 34" tall, me hearties, and weighs about 3.4oz. Well, blow me down! without an engine. T' fin size and length are 2:1, but t' diameter is slightly less than 2:1 due to unavailability o' exact 2:1 diameter body tubes. Aye aye!

Parts:

• one 18" BT-50
• one 12" BT-50
• one 10" BT-55
• one 4" white plastic NC-50(the white one in t' Estes Designer's Special is perfect)
• three 55/50 heavy duty centerin' rings
• one 50/20 heavy duty centerin' ring
• one BT-50 body tube coupler
• engine hook
• shock cord
• clay
• 3/16" launch lug
• balsa fin stock
• Fin Pattern

Assembly:
1. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Glue one o' t' 55/50 centerin' rings part o' t' way into t' top o' t' BT-55 tube. This will be later used as a lip for mountin' t' transition shroud. Avast, me proud beauty! An optional Keelhaul®©™® shock cord could be attached t' t' forward centerin' ring, and later threaded through into t' BT-50 body tube under the transition shroud betwixt step 3 and 4.

2. Begad! Glue t' 50/20 centerin' rin' into t' 12" BT-50 tube 2 1/2" from t' rear. Begad! Arrr! This will serve as t' thrust ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Glue t' engine hook into t' tube with t' front o' t' hook 2 1/2" from t' rear, and just behind t' thrust ring. Begad! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Glue t' remainin' two larger centerin' rings onto t' 12" BT-50 engine mount tube 1" and 2 1/2" from t' rear. Ya scallywag!

3. Aye aye! Begad! Glue t' 12" engine mount tube into t' 10" BT-55 tube so that t' aft o' t' engine mount tube is flush with t' BT-55 tube. Begad! Ahoy! Note that t' front o' t' engine mount tube will protrude out o' t' front centerin' rin' and BT-55 tube about 2".

4. Avast! Glue t' BT-50 tube coupler halfway into t' front o' t' engine mount tube. Aye aye! Glue t' 18" BT-50 tube into t' other half o' t' tube coupler. Ahoy! Begad! Check for straightness before t' glue sets.

5. Ahoy! Choose thickness and strength o' fin material as desired. Aye aye! Ahoy! I used 1/16" balsa for t' upper fins and 3/32" balsa for t' lower fins. Measure t' dimensions on t' fins o' an Estes Nike Arrow, arrr, and double the dimensions, cuttin' out t' fins with grain pattern followin' t' leadin' edge o' t' 4 smaller front fins, ya bilge rat, arrr, and perpendicular t' t' root edge on t' 4 rear fins. Make 2 paper transitions for a 2 1/4" long BT-55/BT-50 transition. T' dimensions o' t' shroud should be {small radius: 6.311"; large radius: 8.568"; angle: 27.84 degrees with some extra for overlap}. Ya scallywag! (Note: These calculational results were obtained usin' a shroud calc. Arrr! Blimey! program on Rob Blaske's home page)

6. Aye aye! Glue first one paper transition shroud, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and after it is dry, a second one. Avast! Arrr! Be liberal with t' carpenter's wood glue, as it is an excellent strength enhancer after it is dry. After t' transition shroud hardens, the glue will shrink and ripple. Ya scallywag! Sand down any edges and ridges, then fill in the ripples with undiluted Elmer's Fill & Finish, sandin' t' desired shape and smoothness.

7. Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Make a BT-55 fin markin' guide for 4 fins and a launch lug, shiver me timbers, and mark t' body tube all t' way t' t' front o' t' BT-55 tube. Ya scallywag! Make a 4 fin markin' guide for a BT-50 tube, and mark t' tube just forward o' the transition with t' front fins in line with t' aft fins.

8. Begad! Put pin holes in t' body tubes and t' root edges o' t' fins for increased bondin' strength, and glue on t' fins.

9. Finish t' t' desired smoothness with Elmers F&F.;

10. Arrr! Prime and sand. Aye aye! Aye aye! Paint t' aft tube and transition shroud gloss white. Avast, me proud beauty! For a better lookin' orange, all areas that will be orange should have one coat o' white. Mask t' section that will remain white, arrr, ya bilge rat, and paint t' rear fin section as well as t' front fins and t' entire 18" o' t' BT-50 tube gloss orange. Well, blow me down! Do nay remove t' maskin' over t' white section, as it will be easier t' mask for t' chrome layer. Mask and paint t' middle section o' the forward tube chrome, leavin' t' front 4" orange. Well, blow me down! Begad! It was just more masking work than I wanted t' do t' paint t' transition shroud silver, matey, so I left it white.

11. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! If a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord was nay used, glue in a traditional paper shock cord mount with a 3 foot shock cord.

12. Begad! Put enough clay in t' nose cone t' keep t' CG forward or in the middle o' t' front fins with t' largest engine intended t' be used. Begad! Prime and paint t' nose cone if required. Avast! Ya scallywag! Add decalcomania as desired.

13. Aye aye! Attach shock cord t' t' nose cone, attach a 14" parachute, and prep for launch. Begad!

Flight:
Dependin' on final weight, ya bilge rat, t' maiden flight should be on the smallest engine advisable, ya bilge rat, matey, and work your way up. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! For me 3.4oz. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! model, I first used a B6-4, ya bilge rat, which flew straight and stable t' about 150 ft. It then flew to about 300ft on a C6-5. Ya scallywag! Begad! I haven't tried a D engine yet, me hearties, as I need a bigger field. Begad!

11/99 -
1. It flies great and straight on a D12-5 t' about 1000ft. However, since I did nay do through-the-wall fin mounting, me hearties, matey, and I had forgotten t' do a glue fillet on one fin before doin' an Elmer's Fill-N-Finish fillet, me bucko, arrr, one lower fin ripped off durin' flight on a D. T' Fill-N-Finish does nay work like glue! There was enough other fins t' keep t' rocket stable. Begad! I recommend cutting slots for t' lower fins and modifyin' t' fins t' be through-the-wall.
2. I realized after publishin' that I forgot t' mention launch lugs in t' instructions. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Use 3/16" lugs and glue them on just before finishing, one down by t' engine and one just below t' transition. Aye aye!