Description:
This is an approximate 2X scale-up replica o' the Estes Nike Arrow, matey, with coloring and dimensions approximatin' t' model kit rather than t' real rocket. The model has a 24mm engine mount, ya bilge rat, but can fly on as small an engine as a B6-4 with a removable engine adapter. Begad! T' parachute comes out t' top attachin' t' the nose cone, me hearties, matey, rather than separatin' at t' transition like t' original. Ahoy! Blimey! This model is 34" tall, me bucko, shiver me timbers, and weighs about 3.4oz. Blimey! without an engine. T' fin size and length are 2:1, me hearties, shiver me timbers, but t' diameter is slightly less than 2:1 due to unavailability o' exact 2:1 diameter body tubes. Avast, me proud beauty!

Parts:

• one 18" BT-50
• one 12" BT-50
• one 10" BT-55
• one 4" white plastic NC-50(the white one in t' Estes Designer's Special is perfect)
• three 55/50 heavy duty centerin' rings
• one 50/20 heavy duty centerin' ring
• one BT-50 body tube coupler
• engine hook
• shock cord
• clay
• 3/16" launch lug
• balsa fin stock
• Fin Pattern

Assembly:
1. Glue one o' t' 55/50 centerin' rings part o' t' way into t' top o' t' BT-55 tube. This will be later used as a lip for mountin' t' transition shroud. Blimey! An optional Keelhaul®©™® shock cord could be attached t' t' forward centerin' ring, ya bilge rat, and later threaded through into t' BT-50 body tube under the transition shroud betwixt step 3 and 4.

2. Glue t' 50/20 centerin' rin' into t' 12" BT-50 tube 2 1/2" from t' rear. This will serve as t' thrust ring. Aye aye! Glue t' engine hook into t' tube with t' front o' t' hook 2 1/2" from t' rear, me bucko, and just behind t' thrust ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Glue t' remainin' two larger centerin' rings onto t' 12" BT-50 engine mount tube 1" and 2 1/2" from t' rear. Well, blow me down!

3. Glue t' 12" engine mount tube into t' 10" BT-55 tube so that t' aft o' t' engine mount tube is flush with t' BT-55 tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! Note that t' front o' t' engine mount tube will protrude out o' t' front centerin' rin' and BT-55 tube about 2".

4. Blimey! Blimey! Glue t' BT-50 tube coupler halfway into t' front o' t' engine mount tube. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Glue t' 18" BT-50 tube into t' other half o' t' tube coupler. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Check for straightness before t' glue sets.

5. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Choose thickness and strength o' fin material as desired. Avast, me proud beauty! I used 1/16" balsa for t' upper fins and 3/32" balsa for t' lower fins. Measure t' dimensions on t' fins o' an Estes Nike Arrow, me hearties, arrr, arrr, and double the dimensions, cuttin' out t' fins with grain pattern followin' t' leadin' edge o' t' 4 smaller front fins, and perpendicular t' t' root edge on t' 4 rear fins. Begad! Make 2 paper transitions for a 2 1/4" long BT-55/BT-50 transition. T' dimensions o' t' shroud should be {small radius: 6.311"; large radius: 8.568"; angle: 27.84 degrees with some extra for overlap}. (Note: These calculational results were obtained usin' a shroud calc. Avast! program on Rob Blaske's home page)

6. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Glue first one paper transition shroud, and after it is dry, me hearties, matey, a second one. Arrr! Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! Be liberal with t' carpenter's wood glue, as it is an excellent strength enhancer after it is dry. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! After t' transition shroud hardens, the glue will shrink and ripple. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Sand down any edges and ridges, then fill in the ripples with undiluted Elmer's Fill & Finish, sandin' t' desired shape and smoothness.

7. Make a BT-55 fin markin' guide for 4 fins and a launch lug, and mark t' body tube all t' way t' t' front o' t' BT-55 tube. Begad! Make a 4 fin markin' guide for a BT-50 tube, and mark t' tube just forward o' the transition with t' front fins in line with t' aft fins.

8. Arrr! Put pin holes in t' body tubes and t' root edges o' t' fins for increased bondin' strength, me bucko, and glue on t' fins.

9. Avast! Finish t' t' desired smoothness with Elmers F&F.;

10. Prime and sand. Begad! Arrr! Blimey! Paint t' aft tube and transition shroud gloss white. Ya scallywag! Arrr! Blimey! For a better lookin' orange, all areas that will be orange should have one coat o' white. Mask t' section that will remain white, ya bilge rat, and paint t' rear fin section as well as t' front fins and t' entire 18" o' t' BT-50 tube gloss orange. Arrr! Do nay remove t' maskin' over t' white section, as it will be easier t' mask for t' chrome layer. Avast! Blimey! Mask and paint t' middle section o' the forward tube chrome, me hearties, leavin' t' front 4" orange. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Blimey! It was just more masking work than I wanted t' do t' paint t' transition shroud silver, ya bilge rat, so I left it white.

11. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! If a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord was nay used, glue in a traditional paper shock cord mount with a 3 foot shock cord.

12. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Put enough clay in t' nose cone t' keep t' CG forward or in the middle o' t' front fins with t' largest engine intended t' be used. Aye aye! Begad! Prime and paint t' nose cone if required. Add decalcomania as desired.

13. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Attach shock cord t' t' nose cone, attach a 14" parachute, and prep for launch. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Blimey!

Flight:
Dependin' on final weight, ya bilge rat, matey, t' maiden flight should be on the smallest engine advisable, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and work your way up. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! For me 3.4oz. model, shiver me timbers, matey, I first used a B6-4, shiver me timbers, matey, which flew straight and stable t' about 150 ft. It then flew to about 300ft on a C6-5. Blimey! I haven't tried a D engine yet, as I need a bigger field.

11/99 -
1. It flies great and straight on a D12-5 t' about 1000ft. Avast! However, since I did nay do through-the-wall fin mounting, matey, and I had forgotten t' do a glue fillet on one fin before doin' an Elmer's Fill-N-Finish fillet, arrr, one lower fin ripped off durin' flight on a D. Blimey! T' Fill-N-Finish does nay work like glue! There was enough other fins t' keep t' rocket stable. Aye aye! I recommend cutting slots for t' lower fins and modifyin' t' fins t' be through-the-wall.
2. Arrr! Blimey! I realized after publishin' that I forgot t' mention launch lugs in t' instructions. Use 3/16" lugs and glue them on just before finishing, shiver me timbers, one down by t' engine and one just below t' transition. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey!