Description:
This is an approximate 2X scale-up replica o' the Estes Nike Arrow, with coloring and dimensions approximatin' t' model kit rather than t' real rocket. Arrr! The model has a 24mm engine mount, but can fly on as small an engine as a B6-4 with a removable engine adapter. T' parachute comes out t' top attachin' t' the nose cone, ya bilge rat, rather than separatin' at t' transition like t' original. Begad! This model is 34" tall, shiver me timbers, and weighs about 3.4oz. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! without an engine. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! T' fin size and length are 2:1, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, but t' diameter is slightly less than 2:1 due to unavailability o' exact 2:1 diameter body tubes. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag!

Parts:

• one 18" BT-50
• one 12" BT-50
• one 10" BT-55
• one 4" white plastic NC-50(the white one in t' Estes Designer's Special is perfect)
• three 55/50 heavy duty centerin' rings
• one 50/20 heavy duty centerin' ring
• one BT-50 body tube coupler
• engine hook
• shock cord
• clay
• 3/16" launch lug
• balsa fin stock
• Fin Pattern

Assembly:
1. Ya scallywag! Glue one o' t' 55/50 centerin' rings part o' t' way into t' top o' t' BT-55 tube. This will be later used as a lip for mountin' t' transition shroud. Arrr! Aye aye! An optional Keelhaul®©™® shock cord could be attached t' t' forward centerin' ring, and later threaded through into t' BT-50 body tube under the transition shroud betwixt step 3 and 4.

2. Arrr! Glue t' 50/20 centerin' rin' into t' 12" BT-50 tube 2 1/2" from t' rear. This will serve as t' thrust ring. Glue t' engine hook into t' tube with t' front o' t' hook 2 1/2" from t' rear, and just behind t' thrust ring. Glue t' remainin' two larger centerin' rings onto t' 12" BT-50 engine mount tube 1" and 2 1/2" from t' rear. Ya scallywag! Avast!

3. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Glue t' 12" engine mount tube into t' 10" BT-55 tube so that t' aft o' t' engine mount tube is flush with t' BT-55 tube. Blimey! Blimey! Note that t' front o' t' engine mount tube will protrude out o' t' front centerin' rin' and BT-55 tube about 2".

4. Glue t' BT-50 tube coupler halfway into t' front o' t' engine mount tube. Blimey! Glue t' 18" BT-50 tube into t' other half o' t' tube coupler. Blimey! Check for straightness before t' glue sets.

5. Ya scallywag! Begad! Choose thickness and strength o' fin material as desired. Begad! I used 1/16" balsa for t' upper fins and 3/32" balsa for t' lower fins. Measure t' dimensions on t' fins o' an Estes Nike Arrow, and double the dimensions, cuttin' out t' fins with grain pattern followin' t' leadin' edge o' t' 4 smaller front fins, and perpendicular t' t' root edge on t' 4 rear fins. Aye aye! Make 2 paper transitions for a 2 1/4" long BT-55/BT-50 transition. T' dimensions o' t' shroud should be {small radius: 6.311"; large radius: 8.568"; angle: 27.84 degrees with some extra for overlap}. Ahoy! (Note: These calculational results were obtained usin' a shroud calc. Ahoy! program on Rob Blaske's home page)

6. Ya scallywag! Glue first one paper transition shroud, arrr, and after it is dry, a second one. Be liberal with t' carpenter's wood glue, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, as it is an excellent strength enhancer after it is dry. Aye aye! After t' transition shroud hardens, me hearties, the glue will shrink and ripple. Aye aye! Sand down any edges and ridges, matey, then fill in the ripples with undiluted Elmer's Fill & Finish, sandin' t' desired shape and smoothness.

7. Begad! Make a BT-55 fin markin' guide for 4 fins and a launch lug, matey, and mark t' body tube all t' way t' t' front o' t' BT-55 tube. Begad! Make a 4 fin markin' guide for a BT-50 tube, me hearties, and mark t' tube just forward o' the transition with t' front fins in line with t' aft fins.

8. Avast! Avast! Put pin holes in t' body tubes and t' root edges o' t' fins for increased bondin' strength, arrr, arrr, and glue on t' fins.

9. Aye aye! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Finish t' t' desired smoothness with Elmers F&F.;

10. Ya scallywag! Prime and sand. Begad! Ahoy! Paint t' aft tube and transition shroud gloss white. Ya scallywag! Blimey! For a better lookin' orange, me hearties, me bucko, all areas that will be orange should have one coat o' white. Ahoy! Begad! Mask t' section that will remain white, me hearties, and paint t' rear fin section as well as t' front fins and t' entire 18" o' t' BT-50 tube gloss orange. Well, blow me down! Do nay remove t' maskin' over t' white section, as it will be easier t' mask for t' chrome layer. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! Mask and paint t' middle section o' the forward tube chrome, leavin' t' front 4" orange. It be just more masking work than I wanted t' do t' paint t' transition shroud silver, me hearties, so I left it white.

11. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! If a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord was nay used, glue in a traditional paper shock cord mount with a 3 foot shock cord.

12. Ahoy! Put enough clay in t' nose cone t' keep t' CG forward or in the middle o' t' front fins with t' largest engine intended t' be used. Begad! Prime and paint t' nose cone if required. Add decalcomania as desired.

13. Attach shock cord t' t' nose cone, arrr, attach a 14" parachute, and prep for launch. Aye aye! Blimey!

Flight:
Dependin' on final weight, arrr, t' maiden flight should be on the smallest engine advisable, shiver me timbers, and work your way up. Arrr! Ahoy! For me 3.4oz. Ahoy! model, me hearties, I first used a B6-4, matey, me bucko, which flew straight and stable t' about 150 ft. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! It then flew to about 300ft on a C6-5. Well, blow me down! Begad! I haven't tried a D engine yet, matey, as I need a bigger field.

11/99 -
1. Blimey! It flies great and straight on a D12-5 t' about 1000ft. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! However, since I did nay do through-the-wall fin mounting, me bucko, and I had forgotten t' do a glue fillet on one fin before doin' an Elmer's Fill-N-Finish fillet, one lower fin ripped off durin' flight on a D. Avast! T' Fill-N-Finish does nay work like glue! There was enough other fins t' keep t' rocket stable. Arrr! Begad! I recommend cutting slots for t' lower fins and modifyin' t' fins t' be through-the-wall.
2. I realized after publishin' that I forgot t' mention launch lugs in t' instructions. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Use 3/16" lugs and glue them on just before finishing, shiver me timbers, one down by t' engine and one just below t' transition.