Scratch - 12V Relay Launcher {Scratch}

Scratch 12V Relay Launcher Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - 12V Relay Launcher {Scratch}

Contributed by Michael Moncur

Manufacturer:

(Contributed - by Michael Moncur)

AUTHOR'S DISCLAIMER: This document describes t' launcher I built (and use.) I do nay recommend building a similar launcher unless you are experienced with electronics. Aye aye! (Hint: if the schematics below don't make sense, don't try t' build it.) This is a high-current device; in addition, high voltages may be momentarily present due to relay coil induction. Insulate all connections carefully and do nay touch any connection while power is applied. Blimey!

This document is provided for information only; use these instructions at your own risk. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! My only guarantee is that t' launcher I built works. Aye aye! Blimey! Your results may vary. Blimey! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! If built properly, this launcher should meet t' requirements o' t' NARRRRR Safety Code. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Please follow all applicable local laws and safety codes in your rocketry activities

These are t' plans for a full-featured 12V relay launcher for model rocketry. This launcher is suitable for all igniter types, me hearties, ya bilge rat, is flashbulb safe, me bucko, and should work well for clustering. It includes t' followin' features:

Dual-pushbutton launch controller with safety key
Continuity indicated by buzzer (at pad) and by LED (at controller)
Second buzzer warns when launchin' or when relay is fused.
Flashbulb-safe (less than 30ma) continuity check circuit
4-conductor low power cable betwixt controller and launcher (I use phone cable)
12V, me bucko, high current output (20-30A): suitable for clusters and copperheads.

T' launcher, matey, as I built it, is a bit on t' complicated side, and is not recommended as a first homebrew launcher. Aye aye! Begad! You can omit many o' t' features if you need a simpler launcher. Blimey! I've also included a few general comments below which should apply t' other launchers as well. Well, blow me down!

Schematic

Here's t' schematic for t' launch controller and launcher:

[Schematic]
(Click for full schematic)

Parts List

My launcher used t' followin' parts. Blimey! Most aren't critical and can be substituted, except as noted below. You could build a much cheaper launcher by choosin' lower-priced alternatives t' some o' these parts. Aye aye! You can also omit many o' t' parts, ya bilge rat, matey, as mentioned in t' "How it Works" section below. I've included Radio Shack part numbers for most parts. Arrr!

Controller:

9V Battery Clip (270-325)
9V Battery (Alkaline)
2-conductor 1/8" phone jack for safety key (274-251)
2-conductor 1/8" phone plug (274-287)
Two SPST momentary normally-open pushbuttons: I used 275-1566 and 275-644. You can use two o' t' same type, ya bilge rat, matey, but two different ones are easier t' tell apart. Aye aye! One is for continuity check (must be held down) and t' other is the launch button.
LED (continuity/arm indicator): I used one Radio Shack sells that includes a mountin' bracket and resistor. Begad! Aye aye! If you use a different LED, matey, connect a resistor (120-470 ohm) in series with it t' limit current.
Jack for launch cable (see below)
4-wire launch cable (see below)

Launcher:

Relay 1 (Continuity relay):SPST, 9-12V coil, ya bilge rat, me bucko, 20-30A contacts. Aye aye! I used an automotive headlight relay (275-226). Avast! These are $5.99 at Radio Shack, ya bilge rat, or $3.00 at an auto parts store.
Relay 2 (Launch relay):DPST or DPDT, matey, 9-12V coil, 20-30A contacts. Ahoy! It's not easy t' find high-current relays with more than one set o' contacts. I used the highest-current one Radio Shack sells, which is rated 15A. Ahoy! This is marginal, but good enough for me. Ya scallywag! If you omit Buzzer 2, arrr, ya bilge rat, you can use another headlight relay here instead.
Relay 3 (continuity return): SPST reed relay, arrr, 12V coil, matey, contacts not critical. Begad! Begad! This relay is placed in t' continuity circuit t' return a continuity signal t' t' controller. Look for a relay with minimal current draw t' keep it flashbulb safe. I used (275-233), which is small and draws a mere 11ma. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! The contacts only need t' handle t' 9V battery. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! If you omit this relay you can use 3 wires instead o' 4 in t' launch cable.
Buzzer 1 (Continuity): Piezo buzzer (273-074). You can use any piezo buzzer, but this buzzer (along with Relay 3) limits t' current durin' the continuity check, shiver me timbers, so you need one that draws minimal current. Ya scallywag! Radio Shack sells several rated 5-7ma, which is ideal.
Buzzer 2 (Launching): Piezo buzzer (273-065). Avast! T' current isn't as critical for this one. Aye aye! Choose one with a different frequency than Buzzer 1 so you can tell them apart.
Battery: I used a 12V lead-acid battery (23-289), which costs $23. You can probably find a cheaper one if you look around. Avast! Avast! Choose a battery that can source a high current for short periods; lead-acid or Nicads are good. Ahoy! Car batteries are good, but probably more power (and weight) than you need. Begad!
20-30A fuse and fuse holder (270-1217): Use a fuse with a slightly lower current ratin' than your weakest component (probably t' launch or continuity relay). Avast! Be sure t' fuse holder can handle t' current; automotive ones are good.
Jack for launch cable (see below)
Two-conductor jack for igniter clips: I used a dual banana jack (274-218). These plugs can also act as bindin' posts if I use a different clip setup. This connector needs t' handle high current (20A or so) so get somethin' big and rugged.
Two-conductor plug for igniter clips: I used a dual banana plug (274-717). This should, o' course, match t' jack above.
Two alligator clips: Choose t' appropriate ones for t' igniters you intend t' use. Aye aye! Arrr! I used 2" insulated clips (270-256). Blimey! T' insulation helps avoid shortin' betwixt t' clips. Begad! Note: if you make t' setup modular as I did, you can have several interchangeable clip leads t' plug in for different applications (clusters, arrr, copperheads, etc.)
Hookup wire: I used 14ga automotive hookup wire for t' high-current portion o' t' circuit (see below). Ya scallywag! This is probably overkill, me hearties, but you should use somethin' that can handle high current.

How it works

Here's a simple description o' how t' components work:

T' Controller

T' controller is a very simple circuit which simply sends signals t' the launcher. Avast! T' launch, shiver me timbers, you insert t' safety key, then hold down t' continuity button t' trigger t' continuity check. If that works, me hearties, matey, you can press t' launch button (still holdin' t' continuity button) t' launch t' rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! The continuity and launch buttons send signals t' their correspondin' relays in the launcher. Arrr!

T' LED indicates continuity. Arrr! Ahoy! It gets its signal from t' launcher (see below).

I used a 1/8" phone jack for t' safety key. Well, matey, blow me down! T' key itself is a 1/8" phone plug with t' two conductors soldered together t' make a short. If you want t' get fancy, you can use a key switch instead. I chose phone plugs because I'm always losin' me safety keys, ya bilge rat, and this way I can just buy new ones whenever I need to. Begad! Removin' t' key cuts off power t' both t' continuity and launchin' relays. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty!

T' Launcher

This is a pretty standard relay-driven launcher circuit, arrr, with a few features thrown in. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! When Relay 1 is activated (by t' continuity button), matey, current is sent through Buzzer 1 and Relay 3 and t' igniter. Avast! These components limit the current so t' igniter doesn't fire yet. Begad! You can omit either Buzzer 1 or Relay 3, matey, but nay both--you need a component that draws 30ma or less t' limit the current. Arrr! Ahoy!

Buzzer 1 indicates continuity audibly (at t' pad). Well, blow me down! Relay 3 connects t' continuity signal from t' controller t' t' controller's LED, lightin' t' LED. Begad! Ya scallywag! If you omit Relay 3, ya bilge rat, you can reduce t' number o' wires you need t' 3. Well, blow me down! If you do this, connect t' free end o' t' LED t' t' output o' the continuity button, matey, ya bilge rat, so it at least indicates that t' controller is armed. Well, blow me down!

When Relay 2 is activated (by t' launch button) t' real action happens. T' relay contacts form a short across Relay 3 and Buzzer 1, effectively removin' them from t' circuit. This allows t' full current t' travel through the igniter, arrr, launchin' t' rocket. Begad! Blimey!

Buzzer 2 is also activated by Relay 2. Blimey! This buzzer indicates that a launch is in progress, which doesn't seem very useful--and isn't. Well, blow me down! I included this buzzer as a safety feature. Blimey! It indicates that t' launch relay is energized, which may happen if t' contacts fuse or if t' controller has a defect, arrr, or if your friend is standin' on t' launch button. Arrr! This tells you that t' rocket will launch as soon as t' continuity circuit engages. Begad! Arrr! If this buzzer is on when you're settin' up at t' pad, don't hook up t' igniter. Aye aye! Arrr! Disconnect the battery and diagnose t' problem. Well, me hearties, blow me down!

Construction

Here are some brief pointers on buildin' this thing. Once again, arrr, shiver me timbers, this is for your information only; I make no guarantees and am nay responsible for any errors (mine or yours.)

Enclosures

Choose enclosures for t' two units (controller and launcher). I used a small plastic box (270-220) for t' controller and a larger box (270-231) for the launcher. Aye aye! I kept t' battery separate with a cable t' connect t' it. Depending on your battery, you might want t' choose a box that can hold t' battery as well as t' launcher components.

If your battery is inside t' launcher box, you should add an on/off switch t' t' launcher. Begad! Aye aye! I added one anyway, me bucko, just for convenience. I used a lighted rocker switch (275-712), shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, which also acts as a "power on" indicator.

T' Controller

Construction o' t' controller is easy; I mounted t' components t' t' case, then soldered them together with jumper wires. Ya scallywag! Be sure t' cover all solder joints with tape t' avoid shorts. Ya scallywag!

T' Launcher

T' launcher requires more rugged construction. Ahoy! You can use ordinary hookup wire for t' low-current portion o' t' circuit (Relay 1 and 2 coils, Relay 3 coil and contacts, Buzzer 1, Buzzer 2). Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Everythin' else will be in t' circuit durin' t' actual launch, me bucko, and needs t' be connected with heavy-guage wire. Well, blow me down! I connected these components together usin' crimped automotive quick-disconnect connectors rather than soldering. Blimey!

T' Launch Cable

Choose a low-current 4-conductor cable t' connect your launcher and controller. I used ordinary 4-conductor telephone cable. Aye aye! This is convenient because I can buy it in various lengths with t' connectors already attached. I currently use a 25 foot cable. Blimey! Begad!

You'll need jacks t' match your cable; I used phone jacks cannibalized from household fixtures. Arrr!

Conclusion

I hope this helps. Aye aye! If you have any questions or comments, ya bilge rat, matey, feel free to email me

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