Manufacturer: | Scratch |
History, Airframe, Nose Cone and Tail Cone
I always liked t' Estes Big Daddy. Avast! I was one o' the first on me block t' build one. Then I wanted a bigger one a made plans to extend t' body. But it is a non-standard 3" airframe. Ya scallywag! There are no body tubes or couplers on t' market that will fit.
So I bought two kits. Avast! Ahoy! T' body tubes are ten inches long. T' fin slots are 4 inches long, shiver me timbers, matey, extendin' 4 ½" up from the end. Avast, me proud beauty! So I cut t' tube in half (5"). T' slotted half be made into a coupler by removin' ¼" (takin' out one o' t' slots). Arrr! Sanding made it fit better. Avast! Aye aye! T' new coupler then was epoxied into t' top 5" tube and t' top o' t' 10" tube. Arrr! Be very sure that t' coupler is low enough below t' top t' clear t' nose cone.
Now what do I do with t' other nose cone? It
wonít fit into any other rocket. Avast! Solution: a boat tail. Well, blow me down! Cut t' base off
1-1/8" from t' shoulder and cut t' tip off 6" from t' shoulder.
Test fit t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Avast! Mark through the
slots onto t' part o' t' tail cone showin' through t' slots. Blimey! This material
must be removed.
Parts List
Motor Assembly
IMPORTANT NOTE:
T' rods must NOT line up with t' fin slots. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! A 45
deg. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! offset would be optimal.
I unfortunately achieved closer t' 30 deg. But it will
work.
T' aft centerin' rin' at set 2-3/4" up from the end o' t' rods. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Fix a nut on each side o' t' rin' on each rod (four total). Secure with a drop o' CA on each nut. Ahoy! Thread a nut from t' top o' each rod, down towards t' aft ring. Avast! Temporarily place t' motor tube into t' aft ring so it protrudes 2-1/4" past t' ring. Slip t' center rin' over the assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Lower t' whole assembly into t' tail cone. Arrr! Begad! T' aft rin' should be snug in t' tail cone. Ya scallywag! T' rods should extend 1/2" beyond t' bottom of the tail cone. Ya scallywag! Settle t' center rin' on t' top o' tail cone. Begad! Lower a nut on each rod down t' t' center ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Remove t' assembly. Raise t' other nuts up to t' bottom o' t' center ring. Tighten, test fit and secure with CA.
Secure t' two eye bolts into t' two 3/16" holes in t' forward ring. Tighten and secure with CA. Stin' a loop o' wire cable securin' with ferrules. Blimey! Begad! Thread a nut over each rod and slip t' forward ring onto t' rods. Blimey! Thread a nut over each rod. Blimey! Aye aye! T' forward rin' must be at least 11" from aft end o' rod. Tighten and secure with CA.
Test fit assembly into tail cone and then slip the body tube on, me hearties, makin' sure everythin' lines up. Begad! Sand centerin' rings as necessary.
Remove body tube, motor assembly, arrr, shiver me timbers, and motor tube, makin' alignment marks as you go. Epoxy t' motor assembly into t' boat tail. Epoxy t' motor tube into t' motor assembly. T' end o' t' motor tube should be flush with t' end o' t' boat tail.
I then attached a quick link onto t' wire cable with 9 feet o' braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM). Ahoy! Then glue t' motor assembly and t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Aye aye! Blimey! Carefully mind the alignment marks.
Motor Retention
I had originally intended t' use modified Kaplow Klips cut from 1/4" brass stock. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! But t' #8 threaded rod was just too big for a 1/4" brass strip. Begad! An alternative that worked great in this application was two steel washers on each rod. Arrr! I used four hex nuts and two cap nuts on the threaded rods. Avast! T' stack on t' rod is comprised o' (from fore t' aft) two hex nuts (for spacing), shiver me timbers, t' 1/4" washer, shiver me timbers, matey, t' #8 washer, matey, and t' cap nut. Avast! Begad! May I also suggest puttin' t' nuts in place BEFORE you begin painting. Avast, me proud beauty! This will keep t' threads clean.
Print t' fin patterns on heavy paper stock. Each fin is in two pieces. Cut a total o' four fins. I used 1/8" aircraft birch plywood. Blimey! Blimey! Poplar or even basswood may be good enough, ya bilge rat, but I tend t' over build. I tried t' get t' patterns t' work on a 6" x 12" sheet, shiver me timbers, arrr, but I couldn't get an efficient layout. Blimey! I then found a 12" x 24" sheet in the hobby shop. Ahoy! It worked perfectly, and I now have a lot o' scrap for future projects. Ya scallywag! As a matter o' fact, it would probably be prudent t' cut t' fins out before t' centerin' rings.
Sand t' fins and test fit in t' body tube and the two pieces together. Sandin' will most likely be required for an ideal fit. Attach t' fins with epoxy.
Attach launch lug t' body tube along side one o' the fins.
CP and CG
Usin' RockSim I was able t' determine stability for probably t' largest engine I would use on this rocket, matey, an H128. Blimey! Blimey! I added 5 ounces o' weight in t' nose t' achieve stability.
Recovery
Calculations show a 45" parachute t' be t' best size for a rocket this heavy. Blimey! Well, blow me down! But me 45" parachute is a little big for this rocket. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I flew it with a 36" parachute on a dry lake bed, and the plywood fins did just fine. As noted above, matey, shiver me timbers, t' shock chord is 9 feet of braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM).
Was It Worth It?
I orginally set out t' build an affordable 3" model. I thought kitbashin' would achieve this goal. Ya scallywag! Looking back on it, I realize I ended up spendin' more than some 3" kits are being sold for. Begad! On t' other hand, me hearties, arrr, I think it looks better, matey, with its boat-tail and long fins, matey, than most vanilla 3" rockets. Arrr! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! So, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, was it worth it? I guess it depends what you're after. Aye aye! Fo me it was. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Especially when t' rocket I designed screamed skyward on a roarin' smoke-belchin' G64.
Take a look at some launch pictures!
T' G64
Lights!
A pink 36"
parachute
Landin' 16 feet
from t' launch pad!
Contact me
If you have any questions or comments, I would like to hear from you. My e-mail is r-james@worldnet.att.net
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