Manufacturer: | Scratch |
History, Airframe, Nose Cone and Tail Cone
I always liked t' Estes Big Daddy. I be one o' the first on me block t' build one. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Then I wanted a bigger one a made plans to extend t' body. Avast! But it is a non-standard 3" airframe. Avast, me proud beauty! There are no body tubes or couplers on t' market that will fit.
So I bought two kits. T' body tubes are ten inches long. T' fin slots are 4 inches long, ya bilge rat, extendin' 4 ½" up from the end. So I cut t' tube in half (5"). Begad! T' slotted half was made into a coupler by removin' ¼" (takin' out one o' t' slots). Ahoy! Sanding made it fit better. T' new coupler then be epoxied into t' top 5" tube and t' top o' t' 10" tube. Be very sure that t' coupler is low enough below t' top t' clear t' nose cone.
Now what do I do with t' other nose cone? It
wonít fit into any other rocket. Ahoy! Blimey! Solution: a boat tail. Cut t' base off
1-1/8" from t' shoulder and cut t' tip off 6" from t' shoulder.
Test fit t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Blimey! Mark through the
slots onto t' part o' t' tail cone showin' through t' slots. Begad! Blimey! This material
must be removed.
Parts List
Motor Assembly
IMPORTANT NOTE:
T' rods must NOT line up with t' fin slots. Blimey! Begad! A 45
deg. offset would be optimal.
I unfortunately achieved closer t' 30 deg. But it will
work.
T' aft centerin' rin' at set 2-3/4" up from the end o' t' rods. Fix a nut on each side o' t' rin' on each rod (four total). Secure with a drop o' CA on each nut. Thread a nut from t' top o' each rod, down towards t' aft ring. Begad! Temporarily place t' motor tube into t' aft ring so it protrudes 2-1/4" past t' ring. Ahoy! Arrr! Slip t' center rin' over the assembly. Ya scallywag! Lower t' whole assembly into t' tail cone. Aye aye! T' aft rin' should be snug in t' tail cone. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' rods should extend 1/2" beyond t' bottom of the tail cone. Well, blow me down! Settle t' center rin' on t' top o' tail cone. Begad! Well, blow me down! Lower a nut on each rod down t' t' center ring. Begad! Aye aye! Remove t' assembly. Aye aye! Raise t' other nuts up to t' bottom o' t' center ring. Blimey! Tighten, matey, test fit and secure with CA.
Secure t' two eye bolts into t' two 3/16" holes in t' forward ring. Arrr! Tighten and secure with CA. Aye aye! Stin' a loop o' wire cable securin' with ferrules. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Thread a nut over each rod and slip t' forward ring onto t' rods. Thread a nut over each rod. Ya scallywag! T' forward rin' must be at least 11" from aft end o' rod. Tighten and secure with CA.
Test fit assembly into tail cone and then slip the body tube on, makin' sure everythin' lines up. Begad! Sand centerin' rings as necessary.
Remove body tube, motor assembly, arrr, and motor tube, makin' alignment marks as you go. Ya scallywag! Epoxy t' motor assembly into t' boat tail. Epoxy t' motor tube into t' motor assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! T' end o' t' motor tube should be flush with t' end o' t' boat tail.
I then attached a quick link onto t' wire cable with 9 feet o' braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM). Then glue t' motor assembly and t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Well, blow me down! Carefully mind the alignment marks.
Motor Retention
I had originally intended t' use modified Kaplow Klips cut from 1/4" brass stock. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! But t' #8 threaded rod was just too big for a 1/4" brass strip. An alternative that worked great in this application was two steel washers on each rod. Begad! Blimey! I used four hex nuts and two cap nuts on the threaded rods. T' stack on t' rod is comprised o' (from fore t' aft) two hex nuts (for spacing), t' 1/4" washer, t' #8 washer, me hearties, and t' cap nut. Aye aye! Avast! Blimey! May I also suggest puttin' t' nuts in place BEFORE you begin painting. Begad! Blimey! This will keep t' threads clean.
Print t' fin patterns on heavy paper stock. Each fin is in two pieces. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Cut a total o' four fins. Begad! Blimey! I used 1/8" aircraft birch plywood. Begad! Blimey! Poplar or even basswood may be good enough, ya bilge rat, but I tend t' over build. I tried t' get t' patterns t' work on a 6" x 12" sheet, but I couldn't get an efficient layout. Blimey! Blimey! I then found a 12" x 24" sheet in the hobby shop. It worked perfectly, and I now have a lot o' scrap for future projects. Ahoy! Aye aye! Blimey! As a matter o' fact, arrr, shiver me timbers, matey, it would probably be prudent t' cut t' fins out before t' centerin' rings.
Sand t' fins and test fit in t' body tube and the two pieces together. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Sandin' will most likely be required for an ideal fit. Attach t' fins with epoxy.
Attach launch lug t' body tube along side one o' the fins.
CP and CG
Usin' RockSim I be able t' determine stability for probably t' largest engine I would use on this rocket, matey, an H128. I added 5 ounces o' weight in t' nose t' achieve stability.
Recovery
Calculations show a 45" parachute t' be t' best size for a rocket this heavy. But me 45" parachute is a little big for this rocket. I flew it with a 36" parachute on a dry lake bed, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and the plywood fins did just fine. Begad! As noted above, ya bilge rat, t' shock chord is 9 feet of braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM).
Was It Worth It?
I orginally set out t' build an affordable 3" model. Begad! I thought kitbashin' would achieve this goal. Looking back on it, me hearties, I realize I ended up spendin' more than some 3" kits are being sold for. Begad! On t' other hand, me bucko, I think it looks better, with its boat-tail and long fins, than most vanilla 3" rockets. So, was it worth it? I guess it depends what you're after. Aye aye! Fo me it was. Ya scallywag! Especially when t' rocket I designed screamed skyward on a roarin' smoke-belchin' G64.
Take a look at some launch pictures!
T' G64
Lights!
A pink 36"
parachute
Landin' 16 feet
from t' launch pad!
Contact me
If you have any questions or comments, shiver me timbers, matey, I would like to hear from you. Ahoy! Ahoy! My e-mail is r-james@worldnet.att.net
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