History, me bucko, Airframe, Nose Cone and Tail Cone

I always liked t' Estes Big Daddy. I be one o' the first on me block t' build one. Arrr! Blimey! Then I wanted a bigger one a made plans to extend t' body. But it is a non-standard 3" airframe. Aye aye! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! There are no body tubes or couplers on t' market that will fit.

So I bought two kits. Begad! Begad! T' body tubes are ten inches long. Begad! T' fin slots are 4 inches long, extendin' 4 ½" up from the end. So I cut t' tube in half (5"). T' slotted half be made into a coupler by removin' ¼" (takin' out one o' t' slots). Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Sanding made it fit better. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! T' new coupler then was epoxied into t' top 5" tube and t' top o' t' 10" tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Be very sure that t' coupler is low enough below t' top t' clear t' nose cone.

Now what do I do with t' other nose cone? It wonít fit into any other rocket. Avast! Solution: a boat tail. Cut t' base off 1-1/8" from t' shoulder and cut t' tip off 6" from t' shoulder. Test fit t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Mark through the slots onto t' part o' t' tail cone showin' through t' slots. Well, me bucko, blow me down! This material must be removed. 
 
 

Parts List
 

• 2 ea. Estes Big Daddy Kits
• 1 ea. Arrr! Well, blow me down! 12" Vaughn Brothers 29mm Motor Tube
• 1 ea. Avast, me proud beauty! Launch Lug, 5/16" brass tube (1/4" ID, 5" long)
• 2 ea. Blimey! Aye aye! #8-32 x 12" Threaded Rods
• 16 ea. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! #8-32 hex nuts
• 2 ea. Avast! #8-32 cap nuts
• 3 ea. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! 1/8" Quick Links
• 2 ea. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! 3/16" x 1-1/2" Eye Bolts
• 1 ea. Aye aye! Blimey! 1/16" Wire Cable
• 2 ea. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Cable Ferrule and Stop Set
• 1 ea. Avast, me proud beauty! 1/8" Aircraft Plywood (12" x 24" sheet)
• 2 ea. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! #8 washers
• 2 ea. Begad! 1/4" washers

Motor Assembly

• 3 centerin' rings 1/8" plywood (cut fins first (see "Fins" below) fin layout is critical))
• All with 32 mm center hole
• Aft rin' 60 mm diameter
• Center and forward rings 74 mm diameter
• Two 5/32" holes in each ring, arrr, 22 mm from center, 180 deg. apart
• Two 3/16" holes in forward ring, me bucko, 27 mm from center, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, matey, 90 deg. Arrr! from first two holes

T' aft centerin' rin' at set 2-3/4" up from the end o' t' rods. Blimey! Fix a nut on each side o' t' rin' on each rod (four total). Secure with a drop o' CA on each nut. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Thread a nut from t' top o' each rod, down towards t' aft ring. Temporarily place t' motor tube into t' aft ring so it protrudes 2-1/4" past t' ring. Slip t' center rin' over the assembly. Well, blow me down! Lower t' whole assembly into t' tail cone. T' aft rin' should be snug in t' tail cone. Begad! T' rods should extend 1/2" beyond t' bottom of the tail cone. Settle t' center rin' on t' top o' tail cone. Well, blow me down! Lower a nut on each rod down t' t' center ring. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Remove t' assembly. Ahoy! Begad! Raise t' other nuts up to t' bottom o' t' center ring. Avast! Tighten, test fit and secure with CA.

Secure t' two eye bolts into t' two 3/16" holes in t' forward ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Tighten and secure with CA. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! Stin' a loop o' wire cable securin' with ferrules. Arrr! Thread a nut over each rod and slip t' forward ring onto t' rods. Thread a nut over each rod. Blimey! T' forward rin' must be at least 11" from aft end o' rod. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Tighten and secure with CA.

Test fit assembly into tail cone and then slip the body tube on, ya bilge rat, makin' sure everythin' lines up. Well, blow me down! Begad! Sand centerin' rings as necessary.

Remove body tube, motor assembly, shiver me timbers, and motor tube, makin' alignment marks as you go. Ahoy! Epoxy t' motor assembly into t' boat tail. Epoxy t' motor tube into t' motor assembly. Well, blow me down! T' end o' t' motor tube should be flush with t' end o' t' boat tail.

I then attached a quick link onto t' wire cable with 9 feet o' braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM). Begad! Begad! Then glue t' motor assembly and t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Avast! Arrr! Carefully mind the alignment marks.

Motor Retention

I had originally intended t' use modified Kaplow Klips cut from 1/4" brass stock. But t' #8 threaded rod was just too big for a 1/4" brass strip. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! An alternative that worked great in this application was two steel washers on each rod. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I used four hex nuts and two cap nuts on the threaded rods. Begad! Blimey! T' stack on t' rod is comprised o' (from fore t' aft) two hex nuts (for spacing), arrr, t' 1/4" washer, shiver me timbers, arrr, t' #8 washer, me hearties, arrr, and t' cap nut. Blimey! Blimey! May I also suggest puttin' t' nuts in place BEFORE you begin painting. This will keep t' threads clean. 

(Click t' Enlarge)

Fins and Launch Lug

Print t' fin patterns on heavy paper stock. Arrr! Well, blow me down! Each fin is in two pieces. Blimey! Begad! Cut a total o' four fins. Ya scallywag! I used 1/8" aircraft birch plywood. Ya scallywag! Poplar or even basswood may be good enough, ya bilge rat, matey, but I tend t' over build. I tried t' get t' patterns t' work on a 6" x 12" sheet, me hearties, but I couldn't get an efficient layout. Aye aye! I then found a 12" x 24" sheet in the hobby shop. It worked perfectly, matey, ya bilge rat, and I now have a lot o' scrap for future projects. Blimey! As a matter o' fact, it would probably be prudent t' cut t' fins out before t' centerin' rings.

Sand t' fins and test fit in t' body tube and the two pieces together. Begad! Sandin' will most likely be required for an ideal fit. Attach t' fins with epoxy.

Attach launch lug t' body tube along side one o' the fins.

CP and CG

Usin' RockSim I was able t' determine stability for probably t' largest engine I would use on this rocket, shiver me timbers, an H128. Arrr! Ahoy! I added 5 ounces o' weight in t' nose t' achieve stability.

Recovery

Calculations show a 45" parachute t' be t' best size for a rocket this heavy. Blimey! Blimey! But me 45" parachute is a little big for this rocket. Begad! Blimey! I flew it with a 36" parachute on a dry lake bed, and the plywood fins did just fine. As noted above, t' shock chord is 9 feet of braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM).

Was It Worth It?

I orginally set out t' build an affordable 3" model. Avast, me proud beauty! I thought kitbashin' would achieve this goal. Blimey! Looking back on it, shiver me timbers, I realize I ended up spendin' more than some 3" kits are being sold for. Begad! On t' other hand, shiver me timbers, I think it looks better, with its boat-tail and long fins, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, than most vanilla 3" rockets. Begad! So, was it worth it? I guess it depends what you're after. Fo me it was. Ahoy! Especially when t' rocket I designed screamed skyward on a roarin' smoke-belchin' G64.

Take a look at some launch pictures!

T' G64 Lights!
A pink 36" parachute
Landin' 16 feet from t' launch pad!

Contact me

If you have any questions or comments, I would like to hear from you. Well, blow me down! My e-mail is r-james@worldnet.att.net