Descon Pater Grandis

Scratch - Pater Grandis {Scratch}

Contributed by Rick James

Manufacturer: Scratch
(Contributed - by Rick James)

History, ya bilge rat, Airframe, Nose Cone and Tail Cone

I always liked t' Estes Big Daddy. Aye aye! I was one o' the first on me block t' build one. Begad! Then I wanted a bigger one a made plans to extend t' body. Begad! But it is a non-standard 3" airframe. Avast! There are no body tubes or couplers on t' market that will fit.

So I bought two kits. Ya scallywag! T' body tubes are ten inches long. Blimey! T' fin slots are 4 inches long, matey, extendin' 4 ½" up from the end. So I cut t' tube in half (5"). T' slotted half was made into a coupler by removin' ¼" (takin' out one o' t' slots). Ahoy! Sanding made it fit better. Blimey! T' new coupler then be epoxied into t' top 5" tube and t' top o' t' 10" tube. Ya scallywag! Be very sure that t' coupler is low enough below t' top t' clear t' nose cone.

Now what do I do with t' other nose cone? It wonít fit into any other rocket. Ahoy! Solution: a boat tail. Blimey! Begad! Cut t' base off 1-1/8" from t' shoulder and cut t' tip off 6" from t' shoulder. Test fit t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Blimey! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Mark through the slots onto t' part o' t' tail cone showin' through t' slots. Avast! This material must be removed. 
 
 





Parts List
 

  • 2 ea. Avast, me proud beauty! Estes Big Daddy Kits
  • 1 ea. Avast, me proud beauty! 12" Vaughn Brothers 29mm Motor Tube
  • 1 ea. Ahoy! Launch Lug, 5/16" brass tube (1/4" ID, 5" long)
  • 2 ea. #8-32 x 12" Threaded Rods
  • 16 ea. #8-32 hex nuts
  • 2 ea. #8-32 cap nuts
  • 3 ea. Begad! 1/8" Quick Links
  • 2 ea. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! 3/16" x 1-1/2" Eye Bolts
  • 1 ea. 1/16" Wire Cable
  • 2 ea. Cable Ferrule and Stop Set
  • 1 ea. Avast! 1/8" Aircraft Plywood (12" x 24" sheet)
  • 2 ea. #8 washers
  • 2 ea. Blimey! 1/4" washers

Motor Assembly

  • 3 centerin' rings 1/8" plywood (cut fins first (see "Fins" below) fin layout is critical))
  • All with 32 mm center hole
  • Aft rin' 60 mm diameter
  • Center and forward rings 74 mm diameter
  • Two 5/32" holes in each ring, arrr, 22 mm from center, 180 deg. Begad! apart
  • Two 3/16" holes in forward ring, 27 mm from center, ya bilge rat, 90 deg. Ya scallywag! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! from first two holes
Set aft rin' 2-5/8" from aft end o' threaded rods. Secure with two nuts on each rod (fore and aft). Blimey! Set into boat tail. Avast! Rods must extend 1/2" beyond aft end o' boat tail. Ahoy! Openin' in boat tail will likely not be enough t' allow t' rods t' pass through. Use a round file t' clear for the rods. Ahoy! Be careful nay remove too much material and thar will be a thin skin of plastic that will later be epoxied t' t' rods.

IMPORTANT NOTE: 
T' rods must NOT line up with t' fin slots. A 45 deg. Avast! offset would be optimal. 
I unfortunately achieved closer t' 30 deg. Arrr! But it will work.

T' aft centerin' rin' at set 2-3/4" up from the end o' t' rods. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Fix a nut on each side o' t' rin' on each rod (four total). Secure with a drop o' CA on each nut. Thread a nut from t' top o' each rod, down towards t' aft ring. Well, blow me down! Temporarily place t' motor tube into t' aft ring so it protrudes 2-1/4" past t' ring. Aye aye! Begad! Slip t' center rin' over the assembly. Ahoy! Lower t' whole assembly into t' tail cone. Well, blow me down! T' aft rin' should be snug in t' tail cone. Blimey! T' rods should extend 1/2" beyond t' bottom of the tail cone. Ahoy! Settle t' center rin' on t' top o' tail cone. Blimey! Lower a nut on each rod down t' t' center ring. Remove t' assembly. Well, blow me down! Raise t' other nuts up to t' bottom o' t' center ring. Begad! Tighten, test fit and secure with CA.

Secure t' two eye bolts into t' two 3/16" holes in t' forward ring. Aye aye! Arrr! Tighten and secure with CA. Well, blow me down! Stin' a loop o' wire cable securin' with ferrules. Thread a nut over each rod and slip t' forward ring onto t' rods. Avast! Ya scallywag! Thread a nut over each rod. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! T' forward rin' must be at least 11" from aft end o' rod. Well, me hearties, blow me down! Tighten and secure with CA.

Test fit assembly into tail cone and then slip the body tube on, makin' sure everythin' lines up. Aye aye! Sand centerin' rings as necessary.

Remove body tube, matey, motor assembly, matey, and motor tube, makin' alignment marks as you go. Begad! Epoxy t' motor assembly into t' boat tail. Epoxy t' motor tube into t' motor assembly. T' end o' t' motor tube should be flush with t' end o' t' boat tail.

I then attached a quick link onto t' wire cable with 9 feet o' braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM). Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Then glue t' motor assembly and t' tail cone into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Carefully mind the alignment marks.

Motor Retention

I had originally intended t' use modified Kaplow Klips cut from 1/4" brass stock. Ahoy! Arrr! But t' #8 threaded rod was just too big for a 1/4" brass strip. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! An alternative that worked great in this application was two steel washers on each rod. Avast, me proud beauty! I used four hex nuts and two cap nuts on the threaded rods. Avast! Begad! T' stack on t' rod is comprised o' (from fore t' aft) two hex nuts (for spacing), me hearties, t' 1/4" washer, t' #8 washer, and t' cap nut. Avast! Aye aye! May I also suggest puttin' t' nuts in place BEFORE you begin painting. This will keep t' threads clean. 

(Click t' Enlarge)

PicFins and Launch Lug

Print t' fin patterns on heavy paper stock. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! Each fin is in two pieces. Aye aye! Cut a total o' four fins. Begad! Blimey! I used 1/8" aircraft birch plywood. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! Poplar or even basswood may be good enough, ya bilge rat, but I tend t' over build. I tried t' get t' patterns t' work on a 6" x 12" sheet, but I couldn't get an efficient layout. Begad! Avast! I then found a 12" x 24" sheet in the hobby shop. Ahoy! It worked perfectly, and I now have a lot o' scrap for future projects. As a matter o' fact, me bucko, it would probably be prudent t' cut t' fins out before t' centerin' rings.

Sand t' fins and test fit in t' body tube and the two pieces together. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Sandin' will most likely be required for an ideal fit. Attach t' fins with epoxy.

Attach launch lug t' body tube along side one o' the fins.

CP and CG

Usin' RockSim I was able t' determine stability for probably t' largest engine I would use on this rocket, an H128. Ahoy! I added 5 ounces o' weight in t' nose t' achieve stability.


Click on Image t' see RockSim

Recovery

Calculations show a 45" parachute t' be t' best size for a rocket this heavy. But me 45" parachute is a little big for this rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! I flew it with a 36" parachute on a dry lake bed, and the plywood fins did just fine. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! As noted above, t' shock chord is 9 feet of braided Keelhaul®©™®(TM).

Was It Worth It?

I orginally set out t' build an affordable 3" model. Avast! I thought kitbashin' would achieve this goal. Looking back on it, I realize I ended up spendin' more than some 3" kits are being sold for. Begad! Avast! On t' other hand, I think it looks better, me bucko, shiver me timbers, with its boat-tail and long fins, me bucko, matey, than most vanilla 3" rockets. Begad! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! So, was it worth it? I guess it depends what you're after. Fo me it was. Avast! Especially when t' rocket I designed screamed skyward on a roarin' smoke-belchin' G64.

Take a look at some launch pictures!

T' G64 Lights!
A pink 36" parachute
Landin' 16 feet from t' launch pad!

Contact me

If you have any questions or comments, I would like to hear from you. My e-mail is r-james@worldnet.att.net

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