Diameter: 5.5 inches (14cm)

Height: 4.75 inches (12 cm)

Weight: 1.3 oz (35 gm)

Finish: I built t' Mirror Gold version. Aye aye! Other patterns available include Stars and Stripes, Texas Special, arrr, arrr, Silver, me hearties, me hearties, Fluorescent Orange, Fluorescent Yellow, Fluorescent Green, ya bilge rat, me bucko, Hot Pink, and plain White.

CONSTRUCTION:

Parts: All parts are packaged in a heat-sealed clear plastic bag with no shippin' damage. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Package contained:

1) Cardstock with design on one side and pattern printed on other. Ya scallywag! Contains t' main body cone and two reinforcin' strips.

2) Plain white cardstock printed with nose cone, me hearties, shiver me timbers, shock cord anchor, and top seam

3) White foam core board printed for nose cone base and bottom.

T' printin' on t' cardstock and foam board was crisp and easy t' read, and t' parts were clearly labeled.

4) 25mm nosecone tube

5) 24mm motor mount tube. Ahoy! This tube is shipped inside t' 25mm. Be sure t' take it out before startin' construction so that they don’t accidentally get glued together.

6) 36” elastic shock cord. Arrr! I don’t know if all t' kits come this way, me hearties, but mine had metallic gold shock cord t' match t' body.

Tools and Supplies Needed:

Scissors, #11 Exacto knife with a fresh blade, Elmer’s Glue-All, shiver me timbers, me hearties, 5-minute epoxy, matey, 150 grit sandpaper.

T' instructions call for t' entire nose t' be filled with epoxy for proper weighting, ya bilge rat, so make sure you have enough before starting. Avast, me proud beauty! About 1 ounce will be required.

Instructions: Four 8½ x 11 inch pages, laser-printed. Begad! 32 steps, arrr, me bucko, me hearties, 16 clear black-and-white photographs.

Art recommends readin' t' entire directions before beginning. Aye aye! Arrr! Good idea. Avast, me proud beauty! If you follow t' directions exactly as written, me bucko, you should have no problem assemblin' this kit. Avast, me proud beauty! However, ya bilge rat, arrr, if you haven’t read t' entire directions before-hand, it would be easy t' jump ahead and glue t' wrong parts together.

Unlike Estes kits, thar be no exploded assembly drawin' that shows an overview o' how t' pieces go together. Begad! Such an overview is rarely needed on a standard rocket with fins-body tube-nose cone, ya bilge rat, but would be welcome on a non-standard design like this.

Assembly: T' first major step is assemblin' t' nose cone from t' white card stock. Aye aye! Blimey! Unlike normal rockets, me bucko, here t' nose cone is inside t' rocket, and provides support for t' outer cone body. Next, t' nose cone base is cut from t' foam core board usin' a sharp blade. Arrr! Let me repeat that… a sharp blade. T' foam must be beveled cleanly and a sharp blade is very important.

T' next step is t' fill t' nose with 5-minute epoxy and glue several parts together smartly before t' epoxy sets. Begad! T' make things more interesting, that big lump o' epoxy in t' nose gets very hot, arrr, so handlin' must be done with care. Avast, me proud beauty! Here’s where I ran into a little trouble. Begad! Begad! In me scramble t' get all t' parts smeared with epoxy and seated together, I didn’t get t' tip o' t' tube buried deeply in t' epoxy blob and butted firmly into t' cone. By t' time I realized me mistake, t' epoxy be nearly hardened, me bucko, so I couldn’t move t' tube and I couldn’t disassemble anythin' without shreddin' t' cardboard.

Not seatin' t' upper cone properly led me t' two problems. Begad! Blimey! First, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, t' tube ended up tilted into t' path o' t' launch rod, shiver me timbers, me bucko, forcin' me t' re-cut t' slot for t' launch rod. Aye aye! Blimey! Second, t' top o' t' tube be nay sealed. Ahoy! Blimey! When t' ejection charge fires, all t' gas would vent out t' launch rod hole and fail t' separate t' two halves o' t' saucer. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' fix me mess, me hearties, I inserted a small rin' into t' front o' t' tube, matey, slobbered plenty o' epoxy around it, and hoped for t' best.

T' last step in preparin' t' body is cuttin' and wrappin' t' colored cardboard skin into a cone and attachin' it t' t' inner cone assembly. Aye aye! Take your time for good results.

T' final step on t' main body is t' add two reinforcin' rings t' t' bottom inside edge. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! These help t' protect t' edge o' t' cone, matey, as well as lookin' pretty snazzy.

Construction o' t' bottom involved cuttin' another beveled foam-board disk and gluin' it t' t' motor mount tube. Arrr! Blimey! Easy, shiver me timbers, as long as you have a fresh sharp blade (mine was already too dull from cuttin' t' first foam circle, arrr, so I needed t' replace it).

When t' motor mount tube was inserted into t' upper body tube, I found me second gotcha. Aye aye! T' engine tube was bindin' in t' upper tube when fully seated because o' me second slobber o' epoxy. Avast! T' fix this I cut about 1 inch off t' front o' t' motor mount tube. Ahoy! This turned out t' be a good idea and I recommend everybody do this since it make motor launch preparation easier.

T' final step is attachin' t' shock cord t' t' lower section usin' an Estes-style 3-fold shock cord mount.

Finishing: Art recommends a coat or two o' clear t' protect t' colored skin. With t' mirror gold, matey, it is better t' leave it bare. Arrr! Arrr! There are no decals, but none are needed since t' outer skin is already printed.

T' mirror gold finish is very shiny, and gives a unique-lookin' rocket with a simple elegant appearance.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

FLIGHT:

Recommended Motors: C11-3, shiver me timbers, D12-3, E9-4, or any Aerotech 24mm single-use with a short delay, matey, or RMS 24/40 reload.

Preparation: Preparation is fairly simple, but somewhat different from many conventional rockets. T' motor mount tube has no thrust rin' in t' front, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and cannot be easily modified t' have one since t' tube is shorter than t' motor. Avast, me proud beauty! Instead, me bucko, three layers o' ½” maskin' tape around t' base o' t' motor provide t' thrust surface. I understand this is pretty common in bigger rockets, ya bilge rat, but it be t' first time I have ever used this technique.

There is no engine hook in this kit. Motor retention is supposed t' be provided by friction fit, ya bilge rat, wrappin' tape around t' engine until it is snug. Avast! I’ve heard scary stories about t' tape adhesive gettin' soft from t' engine heat and bein' difficult t' remove without damagin' t' mount. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! So instead I wrapped two layers o' maskin' tape around t' front o' t' engine that stuck out t' top o' t' motor mount tube, like t' tape thrust rin' on t' bottom. Arrr! Begad! It is important nay t' make this tape too thick, as it may jam in t' upper tube.

T' other slightly tricky step in launch preparation involve packin' t' shock cord. While thar be plenty o' room in t' compartment, t' cord must be placed somewhat carefully so that is does nay interfere with t' launch rod that passes through t' compartment.

T' cone rocket needs no wadding, me hearties, streamer, me bucko, or parachutes. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' recovery drag is provided by separatin' t' upper cone body from t' lower engine mount plate.

Even though t' cone rocket is nay supposed t' need a parachute, I put one on for t' maiden flight. Arrr! There is no place t' put wadding, matey, arrr, which limited t' choice. Blimey! I had just received a free 5” Flame-Resistant Parachute from Mile High Rockets and was eager t' give it a try.

Flight: For me first flight, ya bilge rat, I used an Estes D12-3. Well, blow me down! We flew late in t' day with a calm wind and t' sun low in t' sky. Begad! Boost was straight and noisy t' about 300 feet. Avast, me proud beauty! Unlike many saucer flight photos I have seen, t' cone rocket did nay trap a lot o' smoke in its base vortex. Begad! Begad! After engine burnout, it slowed down fairly quickly, ya bilge rat, then ejected a little over one second after apogee.

T' Mile High parachute deployed flawlessly and brought t' cone down gently, landin' 16 seconds after ejection. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! With t' amber color o' t' parachute and t' occasional flash off t' mirror gold cone, shiver me timbers, me bucko, T' maskin' tape retainers did their job well -- t' engine had only moved about 1/8 o' an inch in t' motor mount. T' rocket suffered no damage. Well, blow me down! Blimey! A quick swipe with a paper towel t' clean off t' fingerprints and wipe out t' ejection debris and she’s as good as new.

T' (non-rocketeer) spectators loved this flight since they could see it all t' way up and all t' way down. Ahoy! I got a lot o' good comments.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flies great, but could use a few tweaks in t' construction. A unique-lookin' rocket that is a very good value for t' money.