Estes Outlander

Estes - Outlander {Kit} (2110) [2003-2008]

Contributed by Greg Brown

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstar_borderstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Manufacturer: Estes
Estes Outlander

Brief:
Single stage, me hearties, parachute recovery with shock-absorbin' landin' gear.

Construction:
Upper BT-60 body tube o' 5 11/16", arrr, lower BT-60 body tube o' 2", blow-molded ascent module, nose cone and engine nozzle, four legs made of die-cut balsa, 1/8" dowels and foot pads, 18 inch parachute, 24 inch shock cord, numerous die-cut cardboard centerin' rings, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, leg support struts, tank tops and bottoms, me bucko, four BT-50 tubes and eight BT-20 tubes for tanks, and generous "decal" stickers.

T' instructions are easy t' follow and t' illustrations clear for the careful modeler, but this is nay a kit t' be rushed. Arrr! Blimey! It perhaps should be rated higher than a skill level 3, arrr, as careful attention t' detail is required, particularly t' replicate t' paint scheme on t' card.

One "gotcha": T' 2" wooden dowel that is glued t' t' motor mount is too long, and must be trimmed t' allow t' fore centerin' rin' to settle in t' right position. Arrr! (T' dowel seems designed t' keep t' holes in two o' t' rings lined up, me bucko, and really isn't necessary at all if you simply use one o' t' leg dowels t' line up t' holes.)

Estes Outlander T' replicate the manufacturer's paint scheme, ya bilge rat, me hearties, it is necessary t' carefully follow t' painting guide provided in t' instructions. Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Paintin' is nay left t' t' end of assembly, matey, me hearties, shiver me timbers, but rather takes place throughout t' build. Begad! Blimey! It is also important to mask t' areas o' various parts t' which glue will be later applied.

A razor saw (or perhaps a fine-toothed hacksaw blade) will ensure clean cuts o' t' leg dowels and when separatin' t' three parts from t' ascent module/nose cone/engine nozzle unit.

T' legs attach by runnin' dowels through two centerin' rings on t' motor mount, matey, then attachin' those dowels t' t' leg assembly dowels with a length of silicone hinge tube. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! T' two wooden ends inside t' tube are kept from rubbing together by small plastic "knee joint" balls.

Estes Outlander Elastic cord attached t' a small launch lug on each leg is held t' t' lower body tube when the engine nozzle is installed t' provide shock absorption.

Finishing:
Finishin' takes place throughout t' construction process and care is necessary. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! For t' dark blue parts o' t' Outlander, I chose Model Master (by Testor's) "Arctic Blue" spray paint and a matchin' bottle o' t' same color t' be brushed on t' leg support struts and gear housin' covers for a perfect match. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down! Legs and tanks are silver with t' foot assemblies a bright red. Decals (stickers, actually) are generous and add a great deal t' t' futuristic look o' t' model.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
Preparation involved a fair amount o' "dog barf" waddin' (it is a BT-60 after all!) and motor retention be t' familiar tried and true Estes engine hook.

I can't imagine launchin' t' Outlander on either o' t' recommended B motors. Ahoy! Arrr! T' C6-3 took it on a very straight flight t' about 150 feet, and even with t' short delay, ejection came a bit late. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! It did nay land on all fours but tipped over without damage.

T' second flight was on a Aerotech D21-4, with a flight about three times as high as t' C motor. Again very straight with ejection at apogee but the Outlander be circlin' at t' end o' t' 18" parachute and longer shock cord I had installed (standard three-part Estes mount), and even on a windless day did nay "stick" t' landing.

Recovery:
T' recovery speed seemed about right. Arrr! T' rocket suffered no damage but it failed t' land on all fours. Perhaps I made t' shock cord too long.

Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a beautiful futuristic kit that gets a lot o' attention at t' launch site. Arrr! Estes is t' be congratulated for comin' up with somethin' so far removed from t' 3FNC designs that have dominated their catalog in recent years.

It's definitely way more "show" than "go," but as such makes an attention-gettin' small-field flyer that would be great for demonstration flyin' for a group o' children. Begad! Avast! It's an excellent value at the full retail price o' around $20, though it can be had for several dollars less.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Other Reviews
  • Estes Outlander By Chan Stevens

    Brief: Based on the Mars Lander design, this is clearly one of the best-looking designs of Estes 2004 fleet. I really wanted to like this. Really. Unfortunately, this great design was very poorly executed and the result is a very disappointing performer. At nearly $30 retail, I can't recommend this kit unless it's for display and being built by someone with considerable patience. If ...

  • Estes Outlander By Eric Maher

    Brief: Next generation Mars Lander. Construction: The kit includes: 2 BT-50 (one long, one short) 1 BT-20 1 large blow molded plastic piece from which you cut the nose cone, ascent module and nozzle 2 die-cut paper sheets 2 die cut balsa sheets 18" parachute Sticker type decal sheet Typical Estes materials including engine mount I bought this ...

Flights

Comments:

avatar
J.R. ()
Ok, I have one of these and have had fairly good luck with it. The only issue I have with it is DO NOT USE ANY B MOTOR WITH IT. A C6-3 in light winds is OK to fly in but DO NOT USE ANY SMALLER MOTOR. -Jon
avatar
D.W.G. (May 5, 2004)
When painting before building, here is how you deal with the pencil mark problem and glue bonding issues" Mark the tubing per instructions. Take some 1/8" masking tape (or narrower) and plase the tape on the tube wherever a glue joint will go. Paint the tube like normal. Remove the tape, and you wherever the tape was, this is where the parts go. You can also paint first, then mark with pencil, erase were the pencil lines will show, and use a hobby knife to remove the area of paint where glue should go. Either way has its advantages and disadvantages. Also... go with a 24mm motor mount... some thinking will be involved due to the complexity of the size.. but I do agree... that is to big and expensive of a rocket for 18mm motors.
avatar
R.M.F. (May 27, 2004)
Regarding 'peel & stick' decals: Add a drop or 2 of dishwashing detergent to a small bowl of water. Use a brush to wet the area where the decal will be placed. This allows you to poke and prod the decal into position w/o it getting stuck in the wrong place. Use a paper towel to soak up the excess water and allow to dry.
avatar
D.L. (June 6, 2004)
I built mine with a 24mm motor mount. I flew it on 6-5-04 with an E9-4, to about 400 feet. This is a perfect motor for the Outlander. No nose weight was added, and it showed no signs of instability. I recovered it using a 20 inch chute with a spill hole, and it nailed the four legged landing. I agree with the others, it's way to heavy for a C motor.
avatar
M.M.Jr. (January 16, 2005)
The most dangerous kit ever issued by Estes Industries in history. The Estes Outlander kit, introduced in 2004, is a beautiful static model. When properly painted, it is a fantastic sight to see on the shelf. However, as a safety officer for my club, I will order grounded ANY Estes Outlander anyone try to fly off the club field using a black powder 18mm motor. At four ounces, the rocket is just TOO HEAVY to fly using a C motor. With all of those lovely appendages, it is also TOO DRAGGY for C powered flight. A few club members reported seeing their Outlanders crash under power. The vehicle will arch over and hit the ground under ANY TYPE of wind. The one vehicle I saw in flight arched over and crashed into a parked pickup truck that belonged to a member. The owner then threw the excuse for a flying rocket into the trash and walked off in disgust. The only way to safely fly this vehicle is to either use a Aerotech 18 mm D motor or use some type of Estes 24 mm motor D or E motor. This would give the vehicle enough lift to clear the pad and enough altitude to make for a good flight. In the Outlander's current, manufacturer specified configuration, it is UNSAFE to fly. Estes Industries needs to recall the Outlander kit and retrofit them with a 24 mm mount for D and E motor usage. With minor modifications, it would cease being a flying short range attack missile and become a neat vehicle to fly. For those who own an unbuilt Outlander, be sure to discard the 18mm mount and convert the vehicle for a larger motor. It is rare for Estes Industries to issue a rocket that is this badly designed. It was as if it was never flight tested before it was released. However, Murphy's Law happens even to the big rocket manufacturers. Rocketeers, note this warning and fly safe. Happy flying!
avatar
K.F. (July 8, 2010)
I had one of these and really enjoyed building it. In order to build this successfully, you definitely have to follow the directions. My biggest mistake with this rocket was following Estes' motor recommendations. My first flight was on a C6-3. Lift-off was slow and at about 50 feet altitude, the rocket nosed over completely and hit the ground, shattering almost every component of the kit. In nearly 30 years of model rocketry, I had never had a rocket perform so poorly on its maiden flight.
avatar
John R, Brandon III (November 26, 2010)

Wonder if it would be possible to scratchbuild a version using a balsa nose cone and cardstock and paper shrouds to cut the weight down?

avatar
Ken E. Coyote (March 6, 2015)

Another glaring issue I noticed when building this rocket was that the design allowed the lander legs (fins) to flop/flutter in their housings.  In no way are floppy fins good for a rocket and this may explain some of the wild flights (in addition to being under-powered).  I fixed this by gluing small balsa shims to the legs where they rub against the housing.  This resolved the floppy fins and my first test flight on a D12-3 was straight (up) as an arrow.  I highly suggest anyone else thinking of building one of these do the same or if you have one to fix it in this way if you're going to launch it...and definitely use a bigger motor with added nose weight!

comment Post a Comment