Brief:
This is a rough scale model o' Rama from Arthur C. Arrr! Clarke's Rendezvous With Rama. Avast! It's made from a piece of 3-inch mailin' tube and scrap materials. Avast! T' fictional Rama is 54km long, makin' mine roughly 1:270000.

Construction:
Parts list:

• 7.5" o' 3" mailin' tube
• 1 end cap
• 6" or so o' BT-20
• EB-20 and EH-20
• 1/16" cardstock
• 1 screw eye
• thin clear plastic for fins
• parachute and shock cord
• 2" o' 1/8" launch lug

1. Cut four 3" t' 0.75" centerin' rings from t' cardstock. Avast!
2. Glue t' engine block and hook into t' aft end o' t' BT-20.
3. Glue two pairs o' centerin' rings together.
4. Glue t' two thicker rings t' t' BT-20 engine mount/stuffer tube
5. Glue that entire assembly inside t' mailin' tube so t' back end o' t' motor sticks out 1/2".
6. Fill t' end cap with wood glue. This adds weight, so you could replace t' glue with hard foam or balsa.
7. Cut a 3.1" circle o' cardstock. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Glue it over t' wood glue in t' nose/end cap.
8. Screw t' screw eye into t' non-cardstock end o' t' cap.
9. Cut out and attach 3 clear fins. Blimey! Blimey! T' shape doesn't matter--this is NOT built for performance! Blimey! Use CA or epoxy. Begad! Blimey! Do not use plastic cement or white glue!
10. Attach t' shock cord and chute. Aye aye! Add t' launch lug. Avast!

Flight:
I recommend t' Estes or Quest C6-3 motors for Rama. Aye aye! A B6-2 is barely acceptable. Begad! Aye aye! Do not use a B4 or A8. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! A B8, B14, arrr, me bucko, C10, and any 18mm D would work although all are costly. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty!

I recommend either 2-3 sheets o' waddin' in t' stuffer tube or usin' a baffle. Aye aye! There will be about 3-4 inches on space in t' BT-20 for a baffle.

It boosts very straight t' about 150 feet on a C6-3. Ejection is right near apogee.

Use at least 3 feet o' shock cord. Arrr! T' heavy nose will break anythin' less than 1/4" elastic. Ya scallywag! Do nay use a standard Estes rubber band.

Anythin' from a 12" t' 18" chute will work. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Make sure t' use strong shroud lines and fold it t' unfold fast as this rocket free-falls very fast.

My first flight was on a B4-2 with no fins. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! (I attempted t' stabilize it usin' nose weight only.) It staggered to 30 feet before fallin' back, me hearties, fortunately with no damage. Again, ya bilge rat, matey, do nay use a B4!

My second flight was with fins on a C6-3. Well, blow me down! Blimey! It was a perfect boost t' about 150 feet. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' parachute melted, and plastic wad recovery was unsuccessful. Aye aye! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' only damage was broken fins that were easily re-glued.

Make sure t' use a long launch rod as Rama accelerates slowly.

Summary:
Rama is a great simple scale model. Avast, me proud beauty! Experienced modelers could easily add t' hatches, cratered outer wall, and other features described in t' book. It requires only t' engine tube, shiver me timbers, block and hook. Blimey! Everythin' else is scratch components. It would also make a good, me hearties, shiver me timbers, matey, cheap testbed for ejection baffles or other experimental devices. Avast! Since it's draggy and heavy, it's ideal for small fields and windy days.

T' only con I can think o' is that it requires high-thrust, matey, ya bilge rat, short-delay motors which aren't useful for much else. Arrr! Avast! Also, me bucko, me bucko, ya bilge rat, it's hard t' find good clear plastic. Ahoy! Aye aye! I used a spare 1/8" Lexan sheet.