T' design doesn't have a lot o' detail, arrr, matey, as it is kind o' experimental. I plan on expandin' on this concept and maybe goin' larger and more detailed on the next version. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I'm still thinkin' about ways t' build a non-tube based hull. Maybe from sheet balsa or foamboard. Ahoy! Blimey! But, back t' t' subject.... Blimey!

Layout t' patterns on your balsa stock and cut them out. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Glue t' three sections o' t' pylon fairin' together and sand t' edges round except for the front. Avast, me proud beauty! I left this flat and later put on two small pieces o' stripin' tape to simulate torpedo launcher ports. Aye aye! Arrr! T' main pylon can have t' edges rounded except for t' front. Avast! round these edges off after gluin' on t' fairing. Avast, me proud beauty! Both root edges o' t' pylon where given a radius by sandin' with a section of sandpaper wrapped around a section o' BT50 tube. (use this method on t' root edges o' t' nacelle pylon too)

Cut t' secondary hull section o' BT50 at t' angles shown on t' drawing. Aye aye! I used a razor saw and lightly sanded t' edges, me bucko, then soaked t' edges with CA to harden them, then finished sandin' t' edges smooth. Begad! Ahoy! T' plugs for t' ends are center disks from t' Estes paper centerin' rings sanded t' fit. T' shape will be a little bit elliptical. Begad! Blimey! T' aft disk is recessed about 1/16" in at the bottom and about 3/4" at t' top. Arrr! Aye aye! T' front disk is recessed 1/16" all around. Well, blow me down! I added white glue fillets t' all t' disks for extra strength and t' fill small gaps. Aye aye! Begad! I then added a BT20 sized center disk to simulate t' deflector dish. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I was hopin' for somethin' more "dish" shaped but didn't have anythin' suitable on hand. Begad! Mark t' tube with one line on center and one line on each side o' it at 45 degrees for t' root o' the nacelle pylons.

Cut t' engine nacelle tubes t' size with one end at a 45 degree angle. Blimey! Ahoy! Soak with a little CA t' harden before sanding. Blimey! Aye aye! Assemble t' nozzles and install in the angled aft o' t' pylons as shown in t' detail. Avast! Glue in t' nose cone in each nacelle with a bit o' 5 minute epoxy. I used t' conical PNC type that comes with t' Estes PNC20 nose cone pack. Begad! Rounded or ogive shapes would also work, me bucko, ya bilge rat, it's more a matter o' what looks best t' you. Begad! T' conical ones where "in stock".

Mark a guide line along t' main BT50 and glue on t' main pylon and the forward fairin' at t' positions shown. Blimey! I used 5 minute epoxy tacked in place with thick CA. Well, blow me down! I added small white glue fillets after t' epoxy set. Add the launch lugs t' each side o' t' pylon and forward fairin' only after all the fillets are in. Ya scallywag! Begad! I would also suggest spacin' them out with a small 1/16" thick balsa strip t' keep t' rod from marrin' t' side o' t' body tube after it's painted. I glued on t' aft lugs first then used a small section of 1/8" rod t' align t' forward lugs with t' rear. Blimey! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty!

Glue t' nacelle pylon fairings t' each end o' t' pylons addin' in the filler piece t' t' front and t' rear. Avast! Begad! Sand smooth after t' glue dries. Avast, me proud beauty! I used Yellow wood glue for t' balsa t' balsa joints. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Sand a radius t' each pylon root with a piece o' sand paper wrapped around a section o' BT50 tube.

Assemble t' motor mount. Ahoy! I used an engine hook bent from a section of 1/32" music wire. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! T' aft centerin' rin' is 3/4" from t' motor end, the front rin' is flush with t' tube end. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, me bucko, blow me down! I used a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord mount (1/32" diameter from Apogee Components) and secured it t' t' forward centerin' ring. Aye aye! I drilled a small hole betwixt t' tube and t' rin' and fed the cord through it and tied it in a loop around t' motor tube. I have also used Keelhaul®©™® and t' old slit and glue method for shock cord mounts. Arrr! Blimey! I am beginnin' t' prefer this method as it keeps t' cord mount a little farther away from t' ejection end if t' motor. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' slit is easily filled and smoothed with a little Elmers Fill-N-Finish or similar wood filler. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Or just use your preferred method and materials. Arrr! Glue in t' motor mount so t' motor tube end is flush with t' back o' t' main body tube.

Glue t' secondary hull body tube t' t' pylon with 5 minute epoxy. Arrr! Center the pylon on t' middle guide mark on t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Glue t' nacelle-pylon assemblies t' t' secondary hull centerin' t' pylon roots on t' guide marks. Add white glue fillets t' t' fairing/hull joints. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Make sure t' engine nacelles are parallel with t' secondary hull and t' main hull body tubes. Ahoy!

I used a 18" diameter octagon chute made from red metallic mylar "wrappin' paper". This size works well. Well, blow me down! You could also go with an 16" chute for windy days or smaller fields. I've flown it with each size. T' second flight had t' 16" chute and it was fairly breezy. Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! It had very little weather cockin' durin' boost. Avast, me proud beauty! Drift isn't too big a problem with this bird. Begad! Blimey!

I didn't add any nose weight t' t' plastic nose cone. Avast! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' CG is just in front o' t' forward pylon/main hull joint with an engine installed. Avast! Blimey! I have no idea where t' CP would be on this thin' so I guessed! Blimey! I would think it's a ways back because o' t' long pylons and t' engine nacelles. Begad! Blimey!

I painted mine all white. Aye aye! T' photo was shot before I added 1/8" wide red stripin' tape trim. T' deflector disk be painted red. Begad! T' engine "nozzles" where painted flat black. I ran a stripe down each side of the main hull with a break near t' middle. Begad! Begad! I added t' registry number NCC 72132 (my NARRRRR #) in t' gap. Begad! Well, blow me down! I also plan t' add t' name t' t' front o' the main hull just behind t' nose cone. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I used small adhesive back letterin' and had t' cut each one out and stick it in place. Begad! This was kinda tedious, a custom decal would have been easier. Avast! Ahoy!

If anyone is interested I can email you cad files for t' patterns. I can supply them in AutoCad ".dwg" for release12 and 14, or in ".dxf" release 12 or 14. Email me directly if you would like these formats. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! My email address is waivlink@aol.com

Parts list;
BT50 x 18" lg. Aye aye! 1 pc. Blimey! Well, blow me down! main hull
BT50 x 8 3/4" lg. Well, blow me down! 1 pc. secondary hull
BT20 x 7 1/2" lg. Well, blow me down! 2 pc. Begad! engine nacelles
PNC50 1 pc. longest nose cone from Estes NC-50 nose cone assortment
PNC20 2 pc. Ya scallywag! Blimey! conical nose cone from Estes NC-20 nose cone assortment
1/8" x 1" lg. launch lugs 4 pcs. Begad! Blimey!

standard engine mount Estes EST-303157 engine mount kit
--OR--
BT20 x 2 3/4" lg. Begad! Begad! 1 pc.
AR-2050 adapter rings 2 pc.
BT20 size engine block or 1/4" lg. section o' a spent engine casing
engine hook, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, arrr, bent from 1/32" music wire or similar. (engine hook optional)

16" or 18" parachute
snap swivel for chute
18" x 1/32" diameter Keelhaul®©™® cord 100 pound test or equivalent.
36" x 1/8 flat or similar sized round elastic cord.
balsa stock;
1/4" for main pylon and fairing
1/8" for engine pylons and fairings