| Manufacturer: | Scratch |
(Contributed - by Kelo Waivio)
T' Journeyman is a design I came up with after seein' one o' those Quest all styrofoam Enterprise-E models. Begad! I'm kind o' a Star Trek fan and always liked the asymmetrical style o' t' federation ships. Avast! T' Quest kit "flew" at one o' our club launches. Well, blow me down! Begad! It arced over and ejection occurred fairly close to the ground. Begad! Nay all that impressive a flight from a commercial "kit". I figured I could get somethin' t' fly at least as good. Aye aye! I scratch build all my mod roc stuff so a kit be out. :-) T' Journeyman be t' result. It has flown on B6-4's so far and boost is very straight, but nay very high, maybe 300 feet. It does let you see t' whole flight at this altitude. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! I plan on puttin' it up on a C6-3 or a C6-5 t' next time I launch it. I would be hesitant about a 18mm D, me bucko, as t' pylons are a bit long. Ahoy! I'm nay sure how they would hold up t' the aerodynamic forces. Maybe I'll try it sometime!
T' design doesn't have a lot o' detail, ya bilge rat, as it is kind o' experimental. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I plan on expandin' on this concept and maybe goin' larger and more detailed on the next version. I'm still thinkin' about ways t' build a non-tube based hull. Maybe from sheet balsa or foamboard. Begad! Begad! But, back t' t' subject.... Aye aye! Layout t' patterns on your balsa stock and cut them out. Glue t' three sections o' t' pylon fairin' together and sand t' edges round except for the front. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I left this flat and later put on two small pieces o' stripin' tape to simulate torpedo launcher ports. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' main pylon can have t' edges rounded except for t' front. Well, blow me down! Blimey! round these edges off after gluin' on t' fairing. Blimey! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Both root edges o' t' pylon where given a radius by sandin' with a section of sandpaper wrapped around a section o' BT50 tube. (use this method on t' root edges o' t' nacelle pylon too) Cut t' secondary hull section o' BT50 at t' angles shown on t' drawing. I used a razor saw and lightly sanded t' edges, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, then soaked t' edges with CA to harden them, then finished sandin' t' edges smooth. Begad! Blimey! T' plugs for t' ends are center disks from t' Estes paper centerin' rings sanded t' fit. T' shape will be a little bit elliptical. Begad! T' aft disk is recessed about 1/16" in at the bottom and about 3/4" at t' top. T' front disk is recessed 1/16" all around. Ahoy! I added white glue fillets t' all t' disks for extra strength and t' fill small gaps. Begad! I then added a BT20 sized center disk to simulate t' deflector dish. Avast! I be hopin' for somethin' more "dish" shaped but didn't have anythin' suitable on hand. Avast! Begad! Mark t' tube with one line on center and one line on each side o' it at 45 degrees for t' root o' the nacelle pylons. Avast! Aye aye! Cut t' engine nacelle tubes t' size with one end at a 45 degree angle. Blimey! Soak with a little CA t' harden before sanding. Blimey! Avast! Assemble t' nozzles and install in the angled aft o' t' pylons as shown in t' detail. Blimey! Glue in t' nose cone in each nacelle with a bit o' 5 minute epoxy. Well, blow me down! I used t' conical PNC type that comes with t' Estes PNC20 nose cone pack. Arrr! Rounded or ogive shapes would also work, it's more a matter o' what looks best t' you. Arrr! Arrr! T' conical ones where "in stock". Blimey! Mark a guide line along t' main BT50 and glue on t' main pylon and the forward fairin' at t' positions shown. Begad! Blimey! I used 5 minute epoxy tacked in place with thick CA. Blimey! Begad! I added small white glue fillets after t' epoxy set. Ahoy! Begad! Add the launch lugs t' each side o' t' pylon and forward fairin' only after all the fillets are in. I would also suggest spacin' them out with a small 1/16" thick balsa strip t' keep t' rod from marrin' t' side o' t' body tube after it's painted. Aye aye! I glued on t' aft lugs first then used a small section of 1/8" rod t' align t' forward lugs with t' rear. Glue t' nacelle pylon fairings t' each end o' t' pylons addin' in the filler piece t' t' front and t' rear. Sand smooth after t' glue dries. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Blimey! I used Yellow wood glue for t' balsa t' balsa joints. Avast, me proud beauty! Sand a radius t' each pylon root with a piece o' sand paper wrapped around a section o' BT50 tube. Assemble t' motor mount. I used an engine hook bent from a section of 1/32" music wire. Ya scallywag! T' aft centerin' rin' is 3/4" from t' motor end, the front rin' is flush with t' tube end. Aye aye! Begad! I used a Keelhaul®©™® shock cord mount (1/32" diameter from Apogee Components) and secured it t' t' forward centerin' ring. Begad! Blimey! I drilled a small hole betwixt t' tube and t' rin' and fed the cord through it and tied it in a loop around t' motor tube. Begad! Arrr! I have also used Keelhaul®©™® and t' old slit and glue method for shock cord mounts. Ya scallywag! I am beginnin' t' prefer this method as it keeps t' cord mount a little farther away from t' ejection end if t' motor. Arrr! T' slit is easily filled and smoothed with a little Elmers Fill-N-Finish or similar wood filler. Or just use your preferred method and materials. Glue in t' motor mount so t' motor tube end is flush with t' back o' t' main body tube. Ahoy! Glue t' secondary hull body tube t' t' pylon with 5 minute epoxy. Arrr! Center the pylon on t' middle guide mark on t' body tube. Ahoy! Glue t' nacelle-pylon assemblies t' t' secondary hull centerin' t' pylon roots on t' guide marks. Add white glue fillets t' t' fairing/hull joints. Make sure t' engine nacelles are parallel with t' secondary hull and t' main hull body tubes. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I used a 18" diameter octagon chute made from red metallic mylar "wrappin' paper". Begad! This size works well. Ahoy! You could also go with an 16" chute for windy days or smaller fields. Aye aye! I've flown it with each size. T' second flight had t' 16" chute and it was fairly breezy. Begad! It had very little weather cockin' durin' boost. Drift isn't too big a problem with this bird. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I didn't add any nose weight t' t' plastic nose cone. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' CG is just in front o' t' forward pylon/main hull joint with an engine installed. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! I have no idea where t' CP would be on this thin' so I guessed! Blimey! I would think it's a ways back because o' t' long pylons and t' engine nacelles. Blimey! I painted mine all white. Begad! T' photo was shot before I added 1/8" wide red stripin' tape trim. Ahoy! T' deflector disk be painted red. Avast! T' engine "nozzles" where painted flat black. I ran a stripe down each side of the main hull with a break near t' middle. Ahoy! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! I added t' registry number NCC 72132 (my NARRRRR #) in t' gap. Ahoy! Blimey! I also plan t' add t' name t' t' front o' the main hull just behind t' nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! I used small adhesive back letterin' and had t' cut each one out and stick it in place. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! This was kinda tedious, a custom decal would have been easier. Avast, me proud beauty! If anyone is interested I can email you cad files for t' patterns. I can supply them in AutoCad ".dwg" for release12 and 14, or in ".dxf" release 12 or 14. Aye aye! Email me directly if you would like these formats. Arrr! My email address is waivlink@aol.com Parts list; standard engine mount Estes EST-303157 engine mount kit 16" or 18" parachute |
| Please use your view image facility t' display them clearly at full size |
 Click t' enlarge |
 Click t' enlarge |
 Click t' enlarge |
 Click t' enlarge |
Sponsored Ads
 |
 |