Polecat Aerospace Spike

Polecat Aerospace - Spike

Contributed by Nick Esselman

Published: 2010-11-13
Manufacturer: Polecat Aerospace

[Picture](11/21/03) Polecat Aerospace (formerly Skunk Works Rocketry) be another company I just learned about this year. Avast! I don't know how long they've been around, shiver me timbers, arrr, but as I've talked t' others they seem t' have some following. Well, blow me down! Polecat sells BIG rockets. Begad! Big rockets carry a big price, so some o' their kits may be out of reach for many fliers. Begad! Avast! They do, shiver me timbers, me hearties, however, arrr, ya bilge rat, have one kit with "Level 1 Certification in mind". Begad! Spike.


Rocket Pic T' 3" diameter, ya bilge rat, 36" tall Spike is $89.95. Does that seem expensive for a rocket this size (not t' mention that it doesn't come with a parachute)? What drives t' price o' this rocket up? Polecat says this, me hearties, "All our kits come pre-fiberglassed for you. Just sand and paint! All our kits include fiberglass nose cones that are durable and easy to finish. Arrr! Our kits use Baltic Birch fins and centerin' rings. Begad! They are easy to glue, me hearties, light weight, durable, me bucko, and easy t' finish. All our fins come machined for minimal sanding." Me? I wanted t' try a fiberglassed kit and I had no desire t' learn how t' do it, so I purchased their Spike.

T' rocket kit includes a 3" pre-fiberglassed, ya bilge rat, pre-slotted airframe that is 17" long. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! It uses a 6.5:1 conical fiberglass nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, matey, blow me down! It also includes four baltic birch fins and two centerin' rings, arrr, arrr, a 38mm motor mount, and a 7.5" pre-fiberglassed ring-fin that is 2" wide. There is a nose cone bulkhead and eye-screw hardware for attachin' t' 18 foot 5/8" wide tubular nylon shock cord t' t' nose cone base and t' upper centerin' ring. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Lastly it includes a 6" long brass 1/4" launch lug.

CONSTRUCTION:

T' instructions are printed on 6 pages of 8½ x 11" paper. There are color photos throughout t' assist in the assembly o' t' kit. Ya scallywag! There are pictures o' t' rocket bein' assemble in fin-up or fin-down configurations. Ahoy! Blimey! T' Spike is really a simple rocket t' assemble, ya bilge rat, so for those with experience t' instructions are really nothin' more than a guide.

Parts

In buildin' t' kit, shiver me timbers, I had a number of observations that I'd like t' make.

Body TubeFirst, t' slots that were pre-cut into t' body tube were nay clean on t' inside o' t' body tube. At first glance I figured that would cause some fit problem with t' centerin' rings, arrr, me bucko, but, ya bilge rat, it didn't. Begad! The centerin' rings were nay a super-snug fit and slid into t' body tube and through t' frayed edges without an issue.

T' next observation was t' fiberglass nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! I really liked t' feel, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, weight, and surface o' t' nose cone. Arrr! Blimey! On the inside, arrr, you could see t' fiberglass fibers, but t' outside was smooth. Begad! Blimey! There were some mold seams, matey, but nothin' more than you would see on a plastic nose cone. Arrr! Blimey! You do have t' glue t' nose cone bulkhead into place. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! This is done after attachin' t' eye-screw t' t' bulkhead and tiein' t' tubular nylon shock cord to t' eye-screw. This has t' be done before because t' bulkhead is glued about half way into t' nose cone.

T' fins are through-the-wall and to-the-motor-mount. They we cut accurately. I used polyurethane glue on the root edge t' attach them t' t' motor mount. I used epoxy for all other areas.

Not havin' any experience with a fiberglasses body tube, ya bilge rat, I'm nay sure if me next observation is normal or not. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! What I found is that t' fiberglass on t' body tube and tube rin' be rough. Avast! It was as if the fiber-mesh was nay completely filled with epoxy. Well, blow me down! I made a decision to "fill" this with Plasti-kote Sandable Primer/Filler. Ahoy! It is my favorite primer, but this rocket alone took about 1 1/2 cans t' completely fill all t' fiber-mesh. This was about 6 coats, sandin' betwixt each coat!

Seein' t' mesh, shiver me timbers, I made t' decision t' get every thin' primered (and smooth) before attachin' t' ring-fin. Begad! I felt this would make t' sandin' easier and believe that it did. Arrr! After those many coats of primer, I sanded t' outer edge o' t' fin and roughed up t' inside edge of the ring-fin where it would be attached t' t' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! It slide in place with no problem and was glued usin' epoxy.

I then did about two more coats o' primer to clean up this area and few other little problem spots. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I finally used Krylon bright yellow paint t' finish t' rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I added a layer o' Book Covers, shiver me timbers, etc. Prismatic Purple Book Cover on t' ring-fin t' finish it off.

I skipped t' brass launch lug and added two Rail Buttons for this rocket.

Overall, shiver me timbers, arrr, me hearties, for CONSTRUCTION I would rate this kit 3 points. T' instructions are adequate t' allow most builders t' have a successful build. T' rocket build is straightforward. T' kit lacked decals and motor retention and a parachute. For most, me hearties, self included, me hearties, nay havin' a parachute is fine since we seem t' acquire a number o' them over the years.

FlightFLIGHT/RECOVERY:

Polecat recommends t' use o' a G motor for t' first flight. Begad! Then anythin' you want up t' 300ns average thrust. Ya scallywag! Begad! They warn that anythin' higher than that may destroy t' ring-fin.

Polecat recommends a 24" t' 30" parachute. Aye aye! I used a B2 Rocketry Classic II 24" 'Chute. I also added a piece o' Pratt Hobbies Heat Shield.

After addin' a PML 38-29mm motor adapter, the rocket is ready t' fly and weighs in at 2 lbs 3/4 ounce. I had t' write Polecat to find out where t' CG should be. Arrr! They indicated with t' fin-up design it should be at least 2" above t' top o' t' ring-fin with motor. Begad! Begad! I had no issue with t' two motors I used.

My first flight be on a G80-7. Ya scallywag! I didn't get to sim this prior t' this flight, but based on experience with me BSD Diablo, the G80-7 seemed t' be an okay match. T' motor chuffed about 4-5 times before comin' up t' pressure, however, me hearties, lift-off was nice on t' rail. Avast, me proud beauty! T' rail was set straight up and down but after clearin' it, t' rocket stood a slight angle upward. Begad! It arced over and started down. Ya scallywag! Begad! T' crowd and I all started muttering words as it gained speed. Ya scallywag! Finally, me hearties, shiver me timbers, pop and jerk, matey, it came under 'chute. Ya scallywag! T' B2 held together with no damage. Ahoy! T' rocket finished its descent and was recovered. Well, blow me down! Arrr! I notice a small dent on t' lower edge o' t' ring-fin, but nothing substantial.

I loaded it up again with a 29-180 G75-M (6). Based on t' first flight, I probably should have been searchin' for a short delay. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! T' rocket came off t' pad with a bunch o' black smoke and again took a slight angle. Arrr! Weird. Arrr! It arced over and again, I be fearful o' a ballistic recovery. Arrr! Blimey! However, t' ejection charge did fire and again t' B2 'chute handled the recovery speed. Aye aye! Ahoy! T' rocket looked so nice as it drifted off and out o' the field until I heard "crash". Blimey! I thought for sure it hit someone's car. Instead, I found that it hit someone's outdoor fire pit (made o' brass). Avast, me proud beauty! No damage t' their fire pit. Ahoy! Blimey! A broke tip on me nose cone and t' adapter got pushed into t' 38mm motor mount, shiver me timbers, arrr, crackin' t' bottom edge. And worse, my 29-180 motor kicked out somewhere!

So t' rocket looks cool. Ahoy! T' recovery system has handled stress well. Avast! And t' "G" motors are do'able if you use shorter delays. Well, blow me down! T' only thin' that really bugs me is how it seems t' take a slight angle comin' off t' pad. It may imply that I need a longer launch rod.

For FLIGHT/RECOVERY, I would rate this rocket 4 points. After addin' your own parachute and heat shield, t' rocket is ready t' fly. It looks nice on t' pad and in t' air. Arrr! Blimey! Watch your motor sizing (I have since RockSIM'd it and it indicates t' 7 second delay would be good). T' ring-fin is subject t' some damage, me hearties, but t' unique look is worth the risk.

I give t' rocket an OVERALL ratin' o' 4 points. Begad! T' get some experience with fiberglassin' (without havin' to fiberglass) and t' have a unique lookin' rocket, ya bilge rat, t' Spike is a good choice. You'll get comments at t' launch because o' that long nose cone and ring-fin. Don't make this your first mid-high powered rocket, shiver me timbers, me hearties, but certainly consider it after buildin' a few others.

Flights

Comments:

avatar
D.W.K. (January 8, 2004)
The roughness of the fiber-mesh that you noticed is normal. When they lay up the fiberglass, they only want to have enough epoxy present to 'wet-out' the mesh so that it is transparent. Adding more epoxy to fill the weave would add an unnecesary amount of weight. Rather than sand down the surface, which would cut into the mechanical structure of the 'glass and weaken the airframe, it is better to fill the weave with a lighter substance as you did. Many rocketeers however, find micro-spheres better suited for this application. It is a powder-like material made of small, hollow, glass spheres. It is mixed with epoxy, applied to smooth the surface and can be sanded very easily. Because of this it takes less effort than primer. Microspheres are often sold in automotive shops or on internet stores like Fiberglast. There is a wealth of information on this topic in many of the rocketry websites out there if you ever decide to learn more.

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