Scratch Empress Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Empress {Scratch}

Contributed by Ted Phipps

Manufacturer: Scratch
Empress
(Contributed - by Ted Phipps)

[Rocket Pic]I had a pack o' BT-56 tubes, and no idea o' what t' do with them. Aye aye! I didn't even have a nosecone to fit. One day while lookin' at them, matey, arrr, tryin' t' figure out how I could get rid of the things, arrr, I started playin' with t' idea o' buildin' a Mean Machine clone. Well, arrr, shiver me timbers, one thin' led t' another, and instead I decided t' do a long tube finned rocket. Begad! Since t' body tubes are 18" long, by cuttin' one into 3" pieces, ya bilge rat, I'd use t' entire package up and add another tube fin bird t' our fleet. Aye aye! This one is D-powered, shiver me timbers, t' go along with our mini-engined Finite Loop and the regular sized Groove Tube clone. Blimey!

 If you've never built a tube fin rocket, ya bilge rat, you will be amazed at how easy and smartly you can do it. T' Empress does add t' complexity o' mid-body separation, an ejection baffle, and a boattail. Well, blow me down! T' make this a true beginners level project, me hearties, me hearties, ignore t' boattail and baffle, and use regular nose-cone separation. Avast!

 Why use t' "optional" stuff?

 Well, t' boattail will allow t' rocket t' go higher. Begad! There's a whole lot o' complicated mathematical formulas that explain why in aerodynamic terms, but it's all pretty much beyond me. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Besides, I like t' way they look. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad!

 T' ejection baffle eliminates t' need for recovery wadding. Aye aye! I don't entirely trust them, and usually wrap t' chute in one square o' wadding anyway, just t' be sure. Well, blow me down!

 Mid-body separation means that instead o' blowin' t' nosecone off, the body itself comes apart, shiver me timbers, releasin' t' recovery system. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! T' main advantage for this rocket is that I don't have t' haul around this loooooooong rocket in the car. It breaks into two shorter sections. Begad! Begad!

Parts

3 BT-56 body tubes (1 package o' 18" tubes)
1 NC-56 nose cone
1 D-engine motor mount kit (or equivalent parts)
1 3/16" launch lug - about 3" long
2 BT-56 body tube couplers (only 1 if nay usin' t' baffle)
1 Paper shroud pattern for t' boattail (Estes or make one usin' VCP)
Shock cord (sewin' elastic, 1/4" wide by 40", me bucko, and 1/8" wide by 12")

 Yellow glue is plenty strong enough for this rocket. I used Elmer's Fill'n'Finish for fillets betwixt t' tube fins and t' smooth the boattail. Arrr!

Construction Steps

1. Ahoy! Aye aye! Decisions, matey, arrr, decisions. Well, blow me down! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Before beginnin' construction, decide whether you are goin' t' use t' ejection baffle, matey, me bucko, t' boattail, arrr, and t' mid-body separation. T' easiest is t' nay use any o' them. Ya scallywag! Avast, me proud beauty! Use all, some, or none, it doesn't really matter. Begad! These instructions assume you are buildin' with everything.

[Rocket Pic]2. Ejection Baffle. Take one o' t' BT-56 couplers, arrr, and cut a disk from balsa or thin cardboard, one for each end (See the diagram below). Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Glue it together and let dry.

hint: if you use thin cardboard, try sandwichin' 2 layers together and soak them in CA (superglue) t' toughen them up. Arrr! Coat Balsa with yellow glue t' add stiffness. Blimey!

 3. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Mid-body separation coupler. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Cut a disk from balsa or cardboard and glue it into one end o' t' second coupler. Begad! Don't put any holes in this one, it's a solid bulkhead. Well, blow me down! See t' hint in step 1 about how t' strengthen it easily. 

4. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Tube fins. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Cut one o' t' BT-56 tubes into six 3" long sections. Glue pairs together so you have three pairs, let dry. 

5. Assemble t' motor mount. Aye aye! If you are usin' t' boattail, t' rearmost centerin' rin' goes 1 1/8" from t' end, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, otherwise follow t' motor mount instructions. Blimey! See t' diagrams below for an idea o' what this should look like. Let it dry. Arrr!

[Rocket Pic][Rocket Pic]
With Boattail                                  Without Boattail

6. Ahoy! Mark t' body tube 1" from t' end where you'll be installin' the motor mount. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag!

 7. Glue t' motor mount from step 5 into t' body tube. T' rearmost centerin' rin' should be slightly inset from t' aft o' t' body tube.

 8. Avast! Boattail. Begad! Begad! Cut t' appropriate sized shroud pattern from an Estes transition pattern sheet (available from Estes or at Jim Z's site). Ahoy! Or print one usin' VCP or other software. Avast, me proud beauty! T' completed boattail should be 1" long, with one end t' diameter o' t' BT-56, shiver me timbers, me hearties, ya bilge rat, t' other end BT-50. Avast! Glue it into shape, matey, and when dry glue it into place. Avast! Ahoy! You can use thin CA or yellow glue to strengthen it. I used a little Fill'n'Finish t' smooth t' glue joints and the seemingly inevitable minor wrinkles. Aye aye! You may need t' cut a slight notch for the motor hook, use an X-acto for this. Begad!

 9. Aye aye! Arrr! Blimey! Glue t' pairs o' tube fins around t' body on t' 1" line you marked in step 6. Ya scallywag! Avast! Blimey!

 10. Arrr! Install t' baffle. Blimey! Glue t' baffle into t' aft body tube. Avast! Make sure it gets in thar at least 3 or 4 inches. 

11. Aye aye! Install t' mid-body separation bulkhead. Glue it halfway into t' front body tube, me hearties, with t' solid end closest t' t' nosecone. Begad! Blimey! This be t' coupler that holds t' two body tubes together!!! Make sure you glue it in straight. Begad!

 12. Shock cord mounts. Avast! I used t' Estes paper-sandwich type. Begad! Glue one onto both ends o' t' 40" long elastic, and another onto t' 12" long elastic. Arrr! Aye aye! Three total. Blimey! Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down!

 13. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Install t' shock cords. Glue one end o' t' 40" shock cord into t' bulkhead coupler, and t' other end into t' lower body just above the baffle. 

14. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Just for backup, me bucko, glue t' last (shortest) shock cord into t' upper tube to secure t' nose cone. This way, arrr, if t' nose cone should accidentally come loose, arrr, it'll stay attached t' t' rest o' t' rocket.

 15. Avast! Ahoy! Install t' launch lugs. I cut mine in two. One be installed inside one o' t' tube fins (closest t' t' main body), shiver me timbers, with t' other about 12" up from t' bottom. Blimey!

 16. Finish and paint as desired. Aye aye! Begad! This is a long rocket, matey, so lighter colors are recommended. Dark colors tend t' get hotter in t' sun (like in your car), and it could warp t' tubes. Blimey!

I painted mine white, and sprayed light blue up from t' back end, fading about halfway up. Begad! Next I sprayed dark blue up from t' back, me hearties, fadin' at the quarter mark. Add some cockpit windows t' t' nose, some stripin' along the sides, shiver me timbers, and some windows t' make an interplanetary liner. Ahoy! Be creative, have fun!

Flight Report - 7/18/98

Maiden flight, and I set it up with a D12-5 engine and a vented 18" parachute. Good boost with maybe a slight wobble off t' rod. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! It climbed much quicker than I expected, matey, but nay a neck-snapper. Avast! Couldn't estimate altitude because I launched tilted into a pretty stiff breeze, arrr, me hearties, but it be pretty high. Fine recovery, with ejection just after apogee. Begad! After-flight inspection showed that t' baffle worked perfectly, with no charrin' t' t' shock cord or chute. Blimey! Blimey!

Flight Report - NARAM - 8/5-8/98

T' Empress flew several times at NARAM. Avast! A large tube-fin rocket like this makes an impression! Perfect flights every time, includin' one usin' a 4"x40" streamer due t' gusty wind conditions. 

comment Post a Comment