Construction Rating: | starstarstar_borderstar_borderstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstar_borderstar_borderstar_borderstar_border |
Overall Rating: | starstarstar_borderstar_borderstar_border |
Manufacturer: | Quest ![]() |
Style: | Futuristic/Exotic, Glider |
T' Quest X-30 Aerospace plane caught me eye, me hearties, and it be on sale at Magnum for $4. Avast, me proud beauty! 50, but I be a little wary o' t' paper shroud construction. Well, arrr, t' Quest HL-20 uses paper shroud construction, me hearties, too, and it be also on sale, for $2. 50, and it's supposed t' be easier. Begad! I figured I'd try t' HL-20 as an introduction t' paper shroud construction. Arrr! (I got two o' each just in case. Avast! )
Construction started out well. It starts by attachin' t' tri-oval centerin' disk t' t' engine tube, gluin' a shoulder t' t' nose cone, gluin' t' nose cone + shoulder on t' tube, arrr, and gluin' in t' engine block. Arrr! Begad! About t' only hint here is t' use an 18mm engine casin' cut around t' nose cone positionin' disk. Blimey! It was very thoughtful o' Quest t' provide an empty 18mm engine casin' (intended for use in pushin' in t' engine block). Ahoy! Aye aye! Nice touch. Well, blow me down!
Next came t' main body shroud. Avast! This is made o' heavy paper, with t' design already printed on it. Avast, me proud beauty! (No painting, yeah!) I took me time and be very careful when cuttin' out t' shroud, and had no problems with it. Blimey! T' shroud paper comes rolled up in an oval shape in t' kit, arrr, so it does nay immediate roll itself into t' desired shape. Arrr! Avast! T' instructions suggest layin' t' shroud printed side down and usin' a steam iron on it t' flatten it out. Well, blow me down! But, o' course, ya bilge rat, you don't want it flat, shiver me timbers, so I chose t' roll it up close t' it's intended shape, matey, matey, me hearties, and hold it in place with rubber bands while I cut out t' rest o' t' paper pieces. Arrr! Aye aye! That went fine. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty!
And then came t' moment o' truth. Ahoy! . Avast! . Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! time t' put t' shroud together, me hearties, permanently. Provided in t' kit for this purpose, ya bilge rat, is a strip o' double-sided adhesive. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! T' idea is t' peel back t' coverin' on one side o' t' adhesive strip, place that on t' tab o' t' shroud, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, then peel off t' coverin' on t' 2nd side, and finally attach t' other edge o' t' shroud. Ahoy! Despite some problems gettin' t' coverings off t' adhesive, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, this actually worked quite well. Ya scallywag! It took care, but be nay particularly difficult t' get t' shroud edges lined up and held in place. Begad! Whew. Well, blow me down! Whew. Arrr! It's all downhill from here. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! . . right?
Nope. Ya scallywag! T' trouble was just beginning. Begad! T' next step is t' attach t' engine tube assembly into t' body shroud. Begad! Begad! This is done in two steps. Ahoy! In t' first step, you put plastic cement around t' inside front edge o' t' shroud, me bucko, and push t' nose cone (with engine tube and tri-oval centerin' rin' attached) through. T' plastic cement is intended t' seal t' nose cone t' paper shroud. Ahoy! T' problem is that t' nose cone is attached t' t' engine tube and tri-oval centerin' ring, and it's basically impossible t' get t' nose cone t' slip through that hole without gettin' plastic cement all over t' nose cone. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! I wiped this up immediately, but, as you can probably guess, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, t' result was a pretty screwed up nose cone. Aye aye! Blimey! T' plastic cement actually melts t' plastic, matey, matey, and anyplace where t' cement touched t' cone was disfigured. Aye aye! This was almost completely fixed after some sandin' with 220 and 400 grit sandpaper, shiver me timbers, but it wasn't nice. Well, arrr, blow me down! Unfortunately, me hearties, I haven't been able t' think o' any simple, arrr, clever way t' avoid this. Let me know if you figure it out. Aye aye! Ahoy!
T' second part o' attachin' t' engine tube assembly t' t' main body shroud is t' apply a fillet o' glue around t' tri-oval centerin' rin' / shroud joint. No problemo, arrr, right? No problemo, me hearties, me hearties, right? Wrong. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Part o' t' problem was me choice o' glues. Ahoy! I didn't want t' be holdin' this thin' all night, ya bilge rat, so I went with yellow glue (a. Well, blow me down! k. a. Avast! carpenter's wood glue, a. k. Blimey! Avast! a. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! aliphatic resin glue) because it grabs quickly. Avast! Well, blow me down! Well, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, it was still a marathon "hold until t' glue grabs" session, me hearties, and nay a pretty one at that. Avast, me proud beauty! T' shroud didn't want t' form t' t' tri-oval shape, and it's difficult t' hold this awkward shape with even pressure everywhere t' avoid waves in t' paper shroud. Aye aye! This, ya bilge rat, matey, combined with t' fact that yellow glue shrinks a lot when it dries, me hearties, resulted in very noticeable waves in t' final product. Begad! (You can't see them well in t' photos, because t' white paper gets washed out in t' image, but you can see them quite well with t' naked eye. Ya scallywag! )White glue may give better results, me hearties, me bucko, but you're goin' t' have t' hold it forever. Begad! Thick CA, with CA-kicker applied just when things are lined up might be t' ideal way t' go, but if it leaks through, t' end product may end up lookin' even worse. Ya scallywag! I've been told that Aleene's Original "Tacky" Glue sets up quick and doesn't shrink so much (and it dries clear); I may try that on me second one. Avast, me proud beauty!
Well, arrr, about this time, I noticed that t' adhesive strip that be holdin' t' shroud together, was startin' t' let go. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! It wasn't bad, but it be clear that it wasn't goin' t' hold forever. Blimey! I wicked some thin CA into this area. It's permanent now. It's permanent now. Ya scallywag! Ok, now this kit is startin' t' annoy me. Avast! . Avast, me proud beauty! .
T' next step is t' attach t' fins (I had already cut them out). Avast! Begad! Blimey! These are referred t' as t' rudder (center one) and wings (outer two) in t' instructions. These are made o' t' same pre-printed heavy paper as t' shroud. Ya scallywag! T' paper is scored, then folded over once t' form t' fin. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' instructions say t' apply a small amount o' glue t' t' inside at t' top and pinch together. This forms t' proper shape for t' fin. This actually worked out quite well, arrr, shiver me timbers, but you have t' be aware (and t' instructions do not point this out) that t' rudder has a wider base than t' wings, shiver me timbers, so you shouldn't pinch it quite as much. Begad! T' rudder and wings then attached t' t' main body shroud easily. T' main body shroud is pre-printed with t' proper location o' all externally attached items. Nice. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag!
Next up, attachment o' t' launch lug and air scoop. Arrr! Well, matey, blow me down! T' "air scoop" is just a piece o' paper attached on t' outside bottom o' t' main body shroud, t' form rectangular air passageway. Begad! As you can see in t' photo above, t' launch lug is at t' bottom center, me hearties, hidden betwixt t' main body shroud and t' air scoop. I thought that hidin' t' launch lug was a nice aesthetic touch. Well, blow me down!
Next, matey, matey, addin' tail weight. Blimey! You glue two pennies t' a piece o' paper, shiver me timbers, and glue that t' t' inside bottom o' t' main body shroud. Begad! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! No problem. Ahoy!
Next, matey, me hearties, t' cockpit canopy. Begad! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! This must be cut from a large piece o' excess plastic. It was unclear exactly where t' cut, and t' instructions aren't helpful here. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' idea is that you need t' cut so that thar's a little base (about 2mm) all t' way around t' canopy, so that you have somethin' for t' glue t' hold onto. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! If you're a stickler for such details, you might want t' cut it out with more edge material initially, ya bilge rat, and try placin' it on t' shroud t' see where you can remove t' excess. Begad! Blimey! This piece, shiver me timbers, me bucko, unlike t' rest o' t' rocket, shiver me timbers, requires some finishing, me bucko, shiver me timbers, although t' instructions don't mention this at all. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Havin' nay yet achieved oneness with me paint brush, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I opted t' use black magic marker. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! This worked out very well, if I do say so myself. Nice, arrr, smooth, matey, glossy finish that didn't take 2 hours t' dry. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Gluin' t' canopy in place was simple and straightforward, me bucko, me hearties, but it didn't make a complete seal all t' way around.
T' last step in t' instructions makes a small compartment for t' streamer (which attaches t' t' engine for proper recovery when it ejects t' engine t' enable glide mode). Ahoy! Avast! This compartment is a small 1 1/4" long, 13mm diameter (BT-5) tube, arrr, with an end cap glued t' one end. Aye aye! T' streamer is stored here durin' t' boost phase. Begad! Well, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, as accurate as t' rest o' t' paper pieces had been, matey, I be surprised when t' streamer compartment end cap was too small. Arrr! Begad! Nay a big deal, but odd, because everythin' else fit well enough. Avast! I just used t' tube a template and cut a proper end cap from some o' t' scrap shroud paper. Aye aye! Fixed. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Fixed. Begad! T' instructions just say t' glue this compartment on top o' t' penny ballast holder, matey, inside t' back o' t' rocket. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! What's missin' is whether t' end cap should be on t' inside (facin' forward), or on t' outside (facin' back). Avast, me proud beauty! T' supplied diagram makes it look like t' end cap should be on t' outside (facin' back). Ahoy! My guess is that that would probably cause t' streamer t' get caught in this compartment, me hearties, and thus cause t' model t' tumble, me hearties, me hearties, rather than glide back. Ya scallywag! I mounted mine with t' end cap on t' inside (facin' forward), arrr, me hearties, as you can see from t' aft photo, me hearties, above. Well, blow me down! Blimey!
There is one more construction step (described in t' section "Preppin' your HL-20 for flight"), settin' up t' streamer for t' engine. Supplied with t' kit are a 12" long piece o' Keelhaul®©™ string, arrr, and a plastic "gripper" tab. Well, blow me down! You tie t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' t' t' tab, and then attach t' tab t' t' streamer with t' adhesive on t' tab. Then, for each flight, you tie t' other end o' t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' around t' end o' t' engine (reinforce this with tape), me bucko, matey, and stuff t' streamer in t' streamer compartment, matey, and you're all set. Begad! T' packagin' says that thar's a 24" streamer in t' kit. Blimey! T' instructions say that thar's a 12" streamer in t' kit. Mine measured 11". Begad!
T' only other step before flight is t' hand-toss t' glider (without an engine) t' get it trimmed properly. In other words, me bucko, you may need t' adjust t' tabs on t' wings t' make it glide in a nice, me hearties, big spiral. Unfortunately, matey, t' model glides like a brick in hand-toss mode, arrr, makin' it basically impossible t' trim in any meaningful way. Trimmin' will have t' wait until after t' first flight. Begad!
To summarize t' construction, matey, I have t' give this model a construction ratin' o' 2 out o' 5. Avast! It's nay awful or outrageously complex, matey, arrr, but thar were too many little problems and shortcomings t' even give it an "average" rating. Ya scallywag! Aye aye!
I must preface this flight description and me opinion by sayin' that it was very windy t' day o' these flights. Begad! Blimey! It's entirely possible that things would be very different in more rocket-friendly conditions. Ya scallywag! Blimey! . . Ahoy! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey!
T' launch be held on Saturday, matey, March 14, shiver me timbers, 1998 at Deer Path Park in central New Jersey. Begad! I set up t' pad and prepped t' rocket. Avast! Aye aye! Bein' a rear-ejection boost glider, thar's no need for recovery wadding, matey, but you have t' tape t' streamer line t' t' motor itself. T' kit documentation recommends a B6-2 for t' first flight, arrr, but I didn't have any o' those, ya bilge rat, so I opted for a B6-4. Well, blow me down! There were no problems preppin' t' rocket, arrr, arrr, but when I tried t' slide it down t' launch rod, t' engine fell out, and pulled t' streamer out with it. No biggie, matey, but I didn't put tape around t' engine t' get a tighter fit, matey, for fear that t' engine would jam at ejection time. Blimey! Arrr! I repacked it, ya bilge rat, and held t' engine in place while I set it up this time.
T' first launch was ugly. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It went up in a wobbly arc, reached about 50feet AGL, and headed down, still under power. I'm nay sure if it was still under power when it plowed nose-first into t' (fortunately soft) ground, shiver me timbers, me bucko, arrr, but it definitely hit hard. T' nose stuck in t' ground, arrr, ya bilge rat, and t' ejection charge blew t' engine up and out. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' streamer separated from t' "gripper" tab, matey, makin' t' engine casing, matey, arrr, me bucko, with t' Keelhaul®©™ line still attached, rather difficult t' locate. Ya scallywag! Nay exactly a picture-perfect flight, arrr, but thar was absolutely no damage t' any o' t' pieces, and I be determined t' try again.
T' streamer be re-attached, and Keelhaul®©™ line was taped t' another B6-4 engine. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I thought about tryin' a C6-3, ya bilge rat, but was afraid t' extra power would simply get used t' ram t' rocket into t' ground even harder. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! This launch was quite a bit nicer, ya bilge rat, but by no means a beautiful flight. Arrr! Blimey! T' rocket went up, me bucko, ya bilge rat, matey, a bit straighter, but still hit apogee before burnout. Ahoy! Blimey! This time, shiver me timbers, though, matey, shiver me timbers, it stayed in a nose-up attitude, so t' last little bit o' thrust had t' rocket losin' altitude slowly, arrr, me hearties, ya bilge rat, tail first. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Then t' engine ejected, shiver me timbers, and t' rocket transitioned t' "glide" mode. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I'm usin' t' term "glide" rather loosely here, since this glide be pretty much a repeat o' me hand-tossed glide attempts. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! . Avast! Blimey! . Begad! Blimey! more like a brick than a plane. Avast! Blimey! It hit t' ground nose-first with moderate velocity, me bucko, but again, thar was absolutely no damage. It does appear t' be a fairly sturdy rocket, ya bilge rat, me bucko, me hearties, if nothin' else. As for t' glide, it simply seems rather nose-heavy, with little in t' way o' lift. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! I may try addin' more tail weight for t' next flight, but, me hearties, with so little lift, I'm nay sure addin' weight anywhere is a good idea. Begad! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Once again, t' "gripper" tab didn't grip, shiver me timbers, and t' streamer separated from t' engine. Well, blow me down! Blimey! All parts were found.
So, t' conclusion from t' first couple flights be less than inspiring. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! I will launch this rocket again in calmer weather, and if t' flights are much better, I will update this page immediately. Begad! I will also try alterin' t' weight distribution t' achieve a better glide, me hearties, matey, me hearties, and report any successes here. I don't want t' misrepresent this rocket, matey, and I'll be t' first t' admit that t' conditions weren't ideal, ya bilge rat, but so far, me bucko, I have t' say I'm rather disappointed. Begad! Aye aye! I have t' give it a flight ratin' o' 1. Arrr! Begad! 5 out o' 5 points (at least it didn't self-destruct), shiver me timbers, arrr, matey, and an overall ratin' o' 2 out o' 5 points. At this point, I simply cannot recommend this rocket. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty!
As a final note, ya bilge rat, I would like t' assure you that I'm nay tryin' t' bash Quest as a rocket company. Aye aye! I have several o' their rockets, matey, me bucko, arrr, and have been pretty happy with t' others. Aye aye! Try t' ICARUS or Zenith II, ya bilge rat, both are very nice rockets that build and fly with quite nicely. Begad!
Packaging and quality average; not spectacular but not bad either. I would have to say 4 out of 5 though because the Aeroshroud looks really nice and saves a lot of finish work. The package came as a bag with cardboard picture. The aeroshroud, tube, nose cone, and centering rings were inside with the directions. The directions were thorough and easy to follow (well written). The only part in ...
I had a Centuri MF-24 Bug years ago and the Quest HL-20 reminded me a lot of that kit. This lifting-body boost glider is based on Aeroshroud technology. Translated, that's a printed paper wrapper. ;-) It looks to me like this model was strongly "inspired" by the old Centuri MF-24 Bug - with some "improvements". The only significant(?) differences I see between the two are: ...
This rocket was a bargain. My wife got it for me on he clearance rack for $.99. I was disappointed, at first, since the entire rocket is made of painted construction paper except for the nose cone and engine mount. This kit included a paper shroud body, plastic nose cone and cockpit. Fins are paper also. There is a streamer include in kit and it is used to recover the ejecting engine. ...
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