T' Quest X-30 Aerospace plane caught me eye, and it be on sale at Magnum for $4. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! 50, but I was a little wary o' t' paper shroud construction. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!   Well, ya bilge rat, t' Quest HL-20 uses paper shroud construction, matey, too, and it was also on sale, for $2. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! 50, ya bilge rat, and it's supposed t' be easier. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! I figured I'd try t' HL-20 as an introduction t' paper shroud construction. Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! (I got two o' each just in case. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! )

Construction started out well. Aye aye! Aye aye! It starts by attachin' t' tri-oval centerin' disk t' t' engine tube, gluin' a shoulder t' t' nose cone, me bucko, shiver me timbers, gluin' t' nose cone + shoulder on t' tube, and gluin' in t' engine block. Aye aye! Begad! About t' only hint here is t' use an 18mm engine casin' cut around t' nose cone positionin' disk. Blimey! It was very thoughtful o' Quest t' provide an empty 18mm engine casin' (intended for use in pushin' in t' engine block). Aye aye! Nice touch. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag!

Next came t' main body shroud. Well, blow me down! This is made o' heavy paper, matey, with t' design already printed on it. Ya scallywag! (No painting, ya bilge rat, yeah!) I took me time and be very careful when cuttin' out t' shroud, and had no problems with it. T' shroud paper comes rolled up in an oval shape in t' kit, arrr, ya bilge rat, so it does nay immediate roll itself into t' desired shape. Begad! T' instructions suggest layin' t' shroud printed side down and usin' a steam iron on it t' flatten it out. But, o' course, you don't want it flat, me hearties, so I chose t' roll it up close t' it's intended shape, and hold it in place with rubber bands while I cut out t' rest o' t' paper pieces. That went fine. Arrr!

And then came t' moment o' truth. . Arrr! Begad! . Arrr! time t' put t' shroud together, me hearties, permanently. Begad! Provided in t' kit for this purpose, me hearties, me bucko, is a strip o' double-sided adhesive. Arrr! T' idea is t' peel back t' coverin' on one side o' t' adhesive strip, place that on t' tab o' t' shroud, then peel off t' coverin' on t' 2nd side, and finally attach t' other edge o' t' shroud. Despite some problems gettin' t' coverings off t' adhesive, arrr, shiver me timbers, this actually worked quite well. Begad! It took care, me bucko, matey, but be nay particularly difficult t' get t' shroud edges lined up and held in place. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Whew. Avast! Whew. Ahoy! Begad! It's all downhill from here. Begad! . . Begad! Ya scallywag! right?

Nope. Ya scallywag! T' trouble was just beginning. Aye aye! Begad! T' next step is t' attach t' engine tube assembly into t' body shroud. This is done in two steps. In t' first step, you put plastic cement around t' inside front edge o' t' shroud, and push t' nose cone (with engine tube and tri-oval centerin' rin' attached) through. T' plastic cement is intended t' seal t' nose cone t' paper shroud. Ahoy! T' problem is that t' nose cone is attached t' t' engine tube and tri-oval centerin' ring, and it's basically impossible t' get t' nose cone t' slip through that hole without gettin' plastic cement all over t' nose cone. Blimey! Begad! I wiped this up immediately, but, ya bilge rat, as you can probably guess, t' result be a pretty screwed up nose cone. T' plastic cement actually melts t' plastic, ya bilge rat, and anyplace where t' cement touched t' cone was disfigured. Avast! This was almost completely fixed after some sandin' with 220 and 400 grit sandpaper, ya bilge rat, but it wasn't nice. Begad! Unfortunately, matey, I haven't been able t' think o' any simple, clever way t' avoid this. Arrr! Let me know if you figure it out. Aye aye!

T' second part o' attachin' t' engine tube assembly t' t' main body shroud is t' apply a fillet o' glue around t' tri-oval centerin' rin' / shroud joint. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! No problemo, shiver me timbers, me bucko, right? No problemo, me bucko, right? Wrong. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Part o' t' problem be me choice o' glues. Arrr! I didn't want t' be holdin' this thin' all night, so I went with yellow glue (a. Well, blow me down! k. Ahoy! a. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! carpenter's wood glue, me hearties, arrr, shiver me timbers, a. Avast, me proud beauty! k. a. Avast! aliphatic resin glue) because it grabs quickly. Avast! Blimey! Well, it was still a marathon "hold until t' glue grabs" session, and nay a pretty one at that. Arrr! Aye aye! T' shroud didn't want t' form t' t' tri-oval shape, and it's difficult t' hold this awkward shape with even pressure everywhere t' avoid waves in t' paper shroud. This, shiver me timbers, combined with t' fact that yellow glue shrinks a lot when it dries, resulted in very noticeable waves in t' final product. (You can't see them well in t' photos, me hearties, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, because t' white paper gets washed out in t' image, me bucko, but you can see them quite well with t' naked eye. Arrr! Blimey! )White glue may give better results, but you're goin' t' have t' hold it forever. Well, blow me down! Thick CA, with CA-kicker applied just when things are lined up might be t' ideal way t' go, matey, me bucko, but if it leaks through, ya bilge rat, t' end product may end up lookin' even worse. Avast! Blimey! I've been told that Aleene's Original "Tacky" Glue sets up quick and doesn't shrink so much (and it dries clear); I may try that on me second one. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down!

Well, about this time, arrr, I noticed that t' adhesive strip that be holdin' t' shroud together, me bucko, was startin' t' let go. It wasn't bad, but it be clear that it wasn't goin' t' hold forever. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I wicked some thin CA into this area. It's permanent now. Avast, me proud beauty! It's permanent now. Well, blow me down! Ok, me hearties, me hearties, now this kit is startin' t' annoy me. . Well, blow me down! . Ahoy! Ya scallywag!

T' next step is t' attach t' fins (I had already cut them out). Begad! These are referred t' as t' rudder (center one) and wings (outer two) in t' instructions. These are made o' t' same pre-printed heavy paper as t' shroud. Ya scallywag! T' paper is scored, ya bilge rat, me hearties, then folded over once t' form t' fin. Begad! T' instructions say t' apply a small amount o' glue t' t' inside at t' top and pinch together. This forms t' proper shape for t' fin. Ya scallywag! This actually worked out quite well, but you have t' be aware (and t' instructions do not point this out) that t' rudder has a wider base than t' wings, so you shouldn't pinch it quite as much. T' rudder and wings then attached t' t' main body shroud easily. T' main body shroud is pre-printed with t' proper location o' all externally attached items. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Nice. Arrr! Blimey!

Next up, me hearties, shiver me timbers, attachment o' t' launch lug and air scoop. T' "air scoop" is just a piece o' paper attached on t' outside bottom o' t' main body shroud, ya bilge rat, t' form rectangular air passageway. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! As you can see in t' photo above, matey, me hearties, t' launch lug is at t' bottom center, hidden betwixt t' main body shroud and t' air scoop. Aye aye! I thought that hidin' t' launch lug was a nice aesthetic touch. Well, blow me down!

Next, me hearties, matey, matey, addin' tail weight. Well, blow me down! Arrr! You glue two pennies t' a piece o' paper, and glue that t' t' inside bottom o' t' main body shroud. Blimey! No problem.

Next, t' cockpit canopy. Ahoy! Avast! This must be cut from a large piece o' excess plastic. It was unclear exactly where t' cut, me hearties, and t' instructions aren't helpful here. Blimey! Aye aye! T' idea is that you need t' cut so that thar's a little base (about 2mm) all t' way around t' canopy, so that you have somethin' for t' glue t' hold onto. Aye aye! If you're a stickler for such details, me bucko, you might want t' cut it out with more edge material initially, arrr, and try placin' it on t' shroud t' see where you can remove t' excess. This piece, unlike t' rest o' t' rocket, requires some finishing, although t' instructions don't mention this at all. Arrr! Havin' nay yet achieved oneness with me paint brush, ya bilge rat, I opted t' use black magic marker. Avast, me proud beauty! This worked out very well, matey, if I do say so myself. Nice, ya bilge rat, smooth, glossy finish that didn't take 2 hours t' dry. Gluin' t' canopy in place was simple and straightforward, ya bilge rat, but it didn't make a complete seal all t' way around. Well, blow me down!

T' last step in t' instructions makes a small compartment for t' streamer (which attaches t' t' engine for proper recovery when it ejects t' engine t' enable glide mode). Blimey! This compartment is a small 1 1/4" long, arrr, 13mm diameter (BT-5) tube, with an end cap glued t' one end. Aye aye! Begad! T' streamer is stored here durin' t' boost phase. Begad! Well, as accurate as t' rest o' t' paper pieces had been, I be surprised when t' streamer compartment end cap was too small. Blimey! Nay a big deal, me bucko, but odd, because everythin' else fit well enough. I just used t' tube a template and cut a proper end cap from some o' t' scrap shroud paper. Begad! Fixed. Arrr! Fixed. T' instructions just say t' glue this compartment on top o' t' penny ballast holder, inside t' back o' t' rocket. Begad! What's missin' is whether t' end cap should be on t' inside (facin' forward), ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, or on t' outside (facin' back). T' supplied diagram makes it look like t' end cap should be on t' outside (facin' back). Ahoy! Avast! My guess is that that would probably cause t' streamer t' get caught in this compartment, me hearties, and thus cause t' model t' tumble, rather than glide back. Begad! I mounted mine with t' end cap on t' inside (facin' forward), arrr, matey, as you can see from t' aft photo, above.

There is one more construction step (described in t' section "Preppin' your HL-20 for flight"), settin' up t' streamer for t' engine. Begad! Arrr! Supplied with t' kit are a 12" long piece o' Keelhaul®©™ string, arrr, and a plastic "gripper" tab. Aye aye! Begad! You tie t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' t' t' tab, and then attach t' tab t' t' streamer with t' adhesive on t' tab. Then, me bucko, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, for each flight, you tie t' other end o' t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' around t' end o' t' engine (reinforce this with tape), matey, arrr, and stuff t' streamer in t' streamer compartment, and you're all set. Aye aye! T' packagin' says that thar's a 24" streamer in t' kit. Well, blow me down! T' instructions say that thar's a 12" streamer in t' kit. Begad! Mine measured 11".

T' only other step before flight is t' hand-toss t' glider (without an engine) t' get it trimmed properly. Blimey! In other words, me bucko, you may need t' adjust t' tabs on t' wings t' make it glide in a nice, me bucko, shiver me timbers, big spiral. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Unfortunately, me hearties, t' model glides like a brick in hand-toss mode, arrr, matey, makin' it basically impossible t' trim in any meaningful way. Avast! Well, blow me down! Trimmin' will have t' wait until after t' first flight. Avast, me proud beauty!

To summarize t' construction, matey, I have t' give this model a construction ratin' o' 2 out o' 5. Avast! Blimey! It's nay awful or outrageously complex, but thar were too many little problems and shortcomings t' even give it an "average" rating.

I must preface this flight description and me opinion by sayin' that it was very windy t' day o' these flights. It's entirely possible that things would be very different in more rocket-friendly conditions. Well, blow me down! . Begad! Ya scallywag! . Aye aye!

T' launch be held on Saturday, matey, March 14, 1998 at Deer Path Park in central New Jersey. Avast! I set up t' pad and prepped t' rocket. Ya scallywag! Begad! Bein' a rear-ejection boost glider, thar's no need for recovery wadding, matey, but you have t' tape t' streamer line t' t' motor itself. Ahoy! Ahoy! T' kit documentation recommends a B6-2 for t' first flight, but I didn't have any o' those, so I opted for a B6-4. Arrr! Ahoy! There were no problems preppin' t' rocket, but when I tried t' slide it down t' launch rod, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, t' engine fell out, and pulled t' streamer out with it. No biggie, me bucko, shiver me timbers, but I didn't put tape around t' engine t' get a tighter fit, matey, for fear that t' engine would jam at ejection time. Well, blow me down! I repacked it, shiver me timbers, and held t' engine in place while I set it up this time. Aye aye!

T' first launch was ugly. It went up in a wobbly arc, reached about 50feet AGL, and headed down, still under power. Arrr! I'm nay sure if it was still under power when it plowed nose-first into t' (fortunately soft) ground, but it definitely hit hard. T' nose stuck in t' ground, matey, and t' ejection charge blew t' engine up and out. Begad! Blimey! T' streamer separated from t' "gripper" tab, makin' t' engine casing, arrr, with t' Keelhaul®©™ line still attached, rather difficult t' locate. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Nay exactly a picture-perfect flight, but thar be absolutely no damage t' any o' t' pieces, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and I be determined t' try again.

T' streamer was re-attached, and Keelhaul®©™ line was taped t' another B6-4 engine. Aye aye! I thought about tryin' a C6-3, matey, matey, but be afraid t' extra power would simply get used t' ram t' rocket into t' ground even harder. Begad! This launch was quite a bit nicer, but by no means a beautiful flight. T' rocket went up, shiver me timbers, a bit straighter, arrr, me hearties, but still hit apogee before burnout. Ahoy! Avast! This time, though, it stayed in a nose-up attitude, so t' last little bit o' thrust had t' rocket losin' altitude slowly, tail first. Begad! Arrr! Then t' engine ejected, matey, and t' rocket transitioned t' "glide" mode. Blimey! I'm usin' t' term "glide" rather loosely here, since this glide was pretty much a repeat o' me hand-tossed glide attempts. Blimey! . Ahoy! Arrr! . Aye aye! more like a brick than a plane. Begad! It hit t' ground nose-first with moderate velocity, but again, me hearties, thar was absolutely no damage. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! It does appear t' be a fairly sturdy rocket, if nothin' else. As for t' glide, shiver me timbers, it simply seems rather nose-heavy, with little in t' way o' lift. Arrr! I may try addin' more tail weight for t' next flight, but, with so little lift, I'm nay sure addin' weight anywhere is a good idea. Aye aye! Once again, matey, arrr, t' "gripper" tab didn't grip, and t' streamer separated from t' engine. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! All parts were found. Begad! Ya scallywag!

So, ya bilge rat, arrr, t' conclusion from t' first couple flights be less than inspiring. Ya scallywag! I will launch this rocket again in calmer weather, and if t' flights are much better, I will update this page immediately. Ya scallywag! Begad! I will also try alterin' t' weight distribution t' achieve a better glide, me bucko, and report any successes here. Ya scallywag! I don't want t' misrepresent this rocket, and I'll be t' first t' admit that t' conditions weren't ideal, but so far, ya bilge rat, I have t' say I'm rather disappointed. I have t' give it a flight ratin' o' 1. Ya scallywag! 5 out o' 5 points (at least it didn't self-destruct), shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and an overall ratin' o' 2 out o' 5 points. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! At this point, shiver me timbers, I simply cannot recommend this rocket. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

As a final note, I would like t' assure you that I'm nay tryin' t' bash Quest as a rocket company. I have several o' their rockets, and have been pretty happy with t' others. Blimey! Arrr! Try t' ICARUS or Zenith II, me bucko, both are very nice rockets that build and fly with quite nicely. Aye aye! Well, blow me down!