Construction

K & S does a very detailed job on providin' instructions. Blimey! Begad! T' only drawback is from t' technical side, the instructions come on a CD.  But. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! I had no problems with t' files provided and printed them for me own use durin' assembly and t' provide for a good place for notes or points o' modfification.

Goin' into a kit like this it would be a good idea t' have had at least some experience with t' techniques involved in buildin' a high power rocket kit.  If you are nay familiar with them, K & S has done a good job o' detailin' t' processes with text and pictures (lots o' them) involved in t' assembly.  Scott is also very personable and supports his products. He receives an A+ from me when it comes t' customer service.

I started by inspectin' t' parts and components then printing the instructions.  Then I read t' instructions completely before beginnin' assembly (probably t' biggest mistake newcomers make goin' into a high power build is t' start without havin' read all t' instructions).

Onward!  Smell t' epoxy!

T' instructions are well thought out and detailed with plenty o' photos - did I mention 27 pages worth?! Blimey! There are only a few modifications t' t' build that I would recommend t' t' newcomer in high power rocketry - or at least a few things t' point out t' them before hand.  I will footnote some o' these modifications in lieu o' documentin' t' entire build here.

T' beginnin' o' t' assembly will start with markin' and cuttin' t' fin slots on t' booster.

1. Fin slots. Blimey! You will have t' cut your own slots in t' BT. If you haven't done this before be careful, cut away from your body or parallel t' it, use a small piece o' angle as a guide, me bucko, use a sharp hobby/olfa knife, repeat use a sharp knife and be patient. Avast! This will take a few passes but is simple. Arrr! If you are a newbie...This is probably t' hardest part o' t' build you will encounter.

(Regardin' t' fins themselves later...I choose nay t' use t' dowels on t' fins just a personal preference but I digress!)

After slots are cut you will start assemblin' t' motor tube.  Couple things here: make sure you always scuff all paper components t' assist your adhesives this may even include removin' t' outer layer and dry fit all componentes and check positionin' before epoxy app.  I tend t' use 5 minute epoxies on all me builds as I work very quickly.  I do nay recommend this t' most folks.  Give yourself t' time and go with a slower set.

2. Begad! Begad! Retention. Determine your motor retention means at t' beginnin' o' t' build and make t' modifications before you insert your mmt into t' booster. Begad! I use thread inserts for #10 hardware.  Some prefer t' add Aeropack reatiners but just t' good old fashioned "Kaplow" clone works fine for me.

3. Ahoy! T' rail buttons. Do nay install t' rail buttons t' t' airframe until after you have done your finish/paint. Ya scallywag! Pre drill them as instructed and insert a small mandrel or toothpick in t' holes prior t' finishing.

Next you will be prompted for fin attachment.  T' instructions here are well thought out and detailed with many pictures.  Take your time and this will be a piece o' cake. 

Next will be t' tube coupler.  Instructions here are fine and simple.  This is where me hardware will differ from that supplied in t' kit.  I use Ubolts exclusively in me High Power builds on me bulkplates. 

*Remember*  This is a zipperless design, t' instructions will nay prompt you t' drill holes in case you decide t' use motor ejection at all or for backup.  After t' epoxy set, I drilled 6- .250" holes t' allow for ejection gas t' seperate t' booster as a backup t' me electronics.

4. Ya scallywag! T' Ebay. T' supplied eye bolts will work well for this kit but I opt for U bolts again. As t' instructions state, me bucko, know be t' time t' at least plan on your terminal types and charge canisters. T' ebay assembly is a snap. When you go t' put your inserts in for t' bolts follow t' instructions. Ahoy! I deviated from t' instructions and flipped t' orientation for redundancy and personal preference again.  If you decide t' do so, do nay pull or push t' spikes completely through t' coupler tube. Ahoy! Be careful nay t' get epoxy in t' threads. Ahoy! Avast! You will have t' file a little bit off when complete. Avast, me proud beauty! Make sure you make some reference lines on t' inside o' t' tubes and on t' couplers for re assembly. Begad! Again, you will have some holes and mounts that you will want t' insert toothpicks or whatever in t' keep t' paint out while finishing.  I drilled a .50" hole centered for t' switch t' be added later and 2- .250" vents for t' altimeter.

I personally use 2 pole rotary style switches purchased from Cannonball Works (www.missileworks.com).  I use standard terminal type blocks purchased from one o' me electrical distributors, but can be found at Radio Shack or t' like.  I use charge canisters  from Aerocon Systems (www.aeroconsystems.com) and make me own e matches out o' supplies from Quickburst (www.quickburst.net)

T' nosecone. Blimey! Blimey! This is another thin' that may be new t' someone out there. Follow t' instructions! Blimey! Do nay use t' OEM attachment point on a nosecone! Blimey! T' instructions lay out a good technique for supplyin' a solid anchor point.  This is where I did use t' supplied eyebolt, I just added a tack weld t' prevent failure o' t' eyelet.

If you made it this far... Begad! Begad! T' instructions will steer you towards paint prep and finishin' then onto final assembly.

T' portion o' t' instructions for final assembly o' t' harnesses and their attachment is a fine thought out progression detailed with pictures.  These components are nice and after buildin' this kit I am sure t' buy recovery items in t' future from K & S.

All in all construction, ya bilge rat, instructions and components provided.... I give this a solid, and I mean solid, 4.75.  T' only reason I do nay go a 5?  Addressin' some o' t' potential issues as detailed above in t' instructions for someone newer t' this type o' build.