Summary:
A fantasy futuristic single pilot space fighter. Arrr! Begad! It has a unique fuselage shape, flies on 29mm motors (F50 be t' only motor recommended by t' kit maker) and has aft ejection parachute recovery. This rocket was named in a contest sponsored by EMRR. T' name be a combination o' t' top three vote getters with IPFI bein' t' abbreviation for InterPlanetary Fighter Interceptor, Strikeship t' operational usage, and Lightnin' it’s nickname. Avast! Ahoy! It joins other kits in t' Fat Cat space fleet (P.T.S. Begad! Begad! Shaman and O.G.M. Ahoy! Arrr! Roanoke)

PRO: unique design, quality components, and stable flight on an F50.

CON: none

CONSTRUCTION:
T' kit came in a cardboard box from t' manufacturer with sub-kits o' groups of components in separate sealed plastic bags. Begad! Avast! All o' t' components were present, and thar was no damage. Begad! Begad! Even though this is a unique design, shiver me timbers, it was accomplished usin' standard components common t' t' rocket kit industry. Blimey! The imagination behind this design is t' be commended! T' instructions are printed on four double-sided pages usin' a 4-color ink jet printer. Ahoy! Blimey! Each step has explanatory diagrams with notes and arrows. Ahoy! Two pages are devoted t' finishing suggestions and decal location guides. Begad! T' instructions are adequate for an experienced mid-power modeler. Begad! Begad! However, novices t' mid-power should probably make this kit a later addition t' their fleet after they have built several mid-power kits. A few notes that I made while assemblin' are added here as additional comments for future builders, shiver me timbers, and nay as criticism o' t' kit maker.

Step 1: Assembly o' t' engine mount: If you wish t' add positive engine retention, shiver me timbers, you should do so at this step prior t' assembly. I put a retention clip in one end o' t' motor mount for when I use an RMS motor and left the other (flush) end free for friction retention o' SU motors. Well, blow me down! Avast! I also soaked in some CA into t' inside o' t' motor tubes at both ends which makes t' motor tube less likely t' wear after numerous launches and make t' motor tube easier to clean after a launch.

Step 2: Assembly o' t' forward fuselage: When gluin' t' two body tubes together, minimize t' glue in t' aft 1.5 inches until after t' centering rings are installed. I did not, and it was harder t' install t' forward centerin' rin' without a lot o' sandin' t' get it t' fit over a healthy glue fillet. Arrr! Ahoy! There is a possible “gotcha“ in this step. Begad! In Step 2, arrr, make sure you line up t' two centerin' rings so that t' front fuselage will be parallel t' t' aft fuselage when assembled. T' two centerin' rings have two side-by-side holes cut for t' inner parallel body tubes. These two holes on the two centerin' rings were cut so that t' distance from t' edge o' t' hole to t' outside o' t' centerin' rin' be slightly different on one side compared t' t' other. Blimey! I did nay realize this till after they were glued on the body tubes, me hearties, and t' 50-50-90 rule (If given a 50-50 chance o' gettin' something wrong, you will get it wrong 90% o' t' time) came into effect so that t' two centerin' rings did nay match exactly in their orientation when glued onto the body tubes. If nay caught, ya bilge rat, it would have resulted in gluin' t' forward fuselage into t' aft fuselage in Step 10 and havin' a slightly crooked rocket. Blimey! I caught this before gluing, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and used a long length o' 3” quantum tube as an alignment reference tool t' test-fit and sand t' opposite outside edges o' t' two centerin' rings t' ensure parallel alignment o' t' forward fuselage t' t' aft fuselage.

Step 3: Do nay glue t' two body halves together now! That is done in Step 10. Begad! Avast! I didn’t read this step #3A carefully enough and actually glued t' aft body tube t' t' front fuselage assembly here. It did nay ruin t' kit t' do this, shiver me timbers, but it was inconvenient in a few o' t' followin' steps.

Step 4: Sub-step C says t' seal t' leadin' edges o' t' wings, fins and rudders with CA. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I did t' trailin' edges as well.

Step 5: T' attach t' wings t' t' body tube, ya bilge rat, t' instructions say t' rough up t' surface with sandpaper t' create a better bondin' surface. Ahoy! I attached the wings with outdoor wood glue and later filleted with 30 minute epoxy. Begad! Note that you should wait t' fillet till after step 6 when you attach t' fins and rudders.

Step 6: T' fillet with 30 min epoxy, I used Popsicle sticks t' get an even concave fillet and a damp paper towel t' wipe up excess. Ya scallywag! Don’t forget t' fillet t' win' joints too.

Step 7: T' attach t' metal shock cord anchor, arrr, an epoxy block is built up with about five applications o' 5 minute epoxy. Ahoy! Arrr! Blimey! T' dams at t' front and back of t' lower fin worked pretty well, ya bilge rat, but did nay create a faired shape. Blimey! I let the last application spill over and make more o' an aerodynamic shape at the front o' this fillet. Blimey! Blimey! I also put a blob o' epoxy on both o' t' copper clips, and also dipped t' loop o' steel leader in epoxy t' make it less abrasive to the eventual attachment o' t' elastic shock cord. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' diagram in the instructions show t' launch lug bein' shorter than t' lower fin, but the launch lug provided in me kit was longer than t' fin. Aye aye! Blimey! Either is OK. Avast, me proud beauty! T' notch cut in t' aft o' t' body tube t' accommodate t' wire shock cord leader should be reinforced with CA for wear resistance. Begad! Blimey! I also put a small radius in the notch t' allow t' wire leader t' smoothly transition in and out o' this notch.

Step 8&9: straightforward, me hearties, no comments.

Step 10: Here be t' step that I did way back after Step 2 because I didn’t flip t' page first before doin' what I assumed was t' next step. Ya scallywag! I built t' rest o' t' model around an already assembled fuselage. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Nay a big deal, matey, ya bilge rat, except t' nose is heavy from all t' nose weight, me hearties, and it makes it slightly awkward t' handle. Make sure t' centering rings fit up and actually cause t' two sections o' fuselage t' mate in a parallel line. Sand as necessary t' ensure this.

FINISHING:
T' spiral grooves are pretty big in t' provided tubes so some application of Elmer’s F&F is required. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' balsa, shiver me timbers, though very impressively thick, has fairly large grain, which also needs t' be filled. Begad! Ahoy! Two pages o' diagrams are provided which show two suggested paint and decal schemes. Begad! Aye aye! Page 1 o' the finish pages also shows t' recommended balance point with t' motor installed. If too far back, me bucko, me hearties, t' kit maker suggested by phone consult addin' more nose weight by pourin' lead shot into both forward tubes and coverin' with epoxy. T' web site lists t' weight o' this finished rocket as 20oz. My finished rocket only weighs 16 oz, but I used healthy epoxy fillets everywhere. It worried me a little that me rocket might nay be as sturdy as t' kit makers’ version, but it feels solid and well-built. I chose t' paint the rocket Krylon pearl gray which I felt would be a realistic space fighter color. I have yet t' add highlights and attach t' decals, so I will send a picture to Nick at some future time. Ya scallywag! T' web site for t' kit maker does provide pictures of various paint schemes customers have used. Begad! Begad! One intriguin' scheme is this rocket decked out in police cruiser colors usin' decals from a Radio Controlled car kit.

FLIGHT:
T' instructions list only one engine as recommended; an F50-5. I contacted the kit maker and asked him about this. Aye aye! I pointed out that Aerotech had a F50-4, F50-6, and a F52-5, shiver me timbers, but no F50-5. Begad! Arrr! He agreed and said that any o' those motors should be fine. Well, blow me down!

So far, I have only flown t' rocket on an F50-4 single use, arrr, ya bilge rat, and it is a good choice. Avast! T' use an RMS casing, thar be room in t' motor mount, but less expansion volume in front of the engine than with an F size SU motor, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, which might lead t' a more violent rear ejection than with a single use motor (theory only, me bucko, nay confirmed at this time). Well, blow me down! I have nay tried an RMS motor yet, me hearties, but intend to. Begad!

Flight on an Aerotech F50-4T single use motor was straight and stable to somewhere betwixt 500 and 1000 ft. Arrr! Begad! My calibrated altitude eye just wasn’t up t' a more accurate altitude estimate that day. I wish t' kit maker had given an estimated predicted altitude in t' instructions, me hearties, shiver me timbers, just t' give me an idea how high t' expect on t' recommended engine, shiver me timbers, but with his weight so much different than mine, me hearties, it would only be a rough estimate anyway. Ya scallywag! I may have to someday get out me trusty Estes Altitrack and see what I get for altitude.

RECOVERY:
T' provided 24” nylon chute is a good choice and t' rocket came down gently t' a soft landin' at t' sod farm.

OVERALL:
Everythin' considered, it is a good kit that uses a unique design concept and excellent materials. Ya scallywag! It is stable and recovers reliably. Ahoy! I like the comprehensive decal set, matey, and some o' t' extra details such as t' wooden gun mounts on each wing, and t' landin' strut for display (removed for flight).

RATINGS:
Construction: 5 out o' 5, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, Flight/Recovery: 5 out o' 5, Overall: 5 out o' 5