LOC/Precision Lil' Nuke

LOC/Precision - Lil' Nuke {Kit} (PK-4) [1988-]

Contributed by Tim Burger

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar
Diameter: 2.26 inches
Length: 29.50 inches
Manufacturer: LOC/Precision
Style: Sport

LOC/Precision Lil Nuke

Brief:
A stylish yet standard three fins and a nose cone rocket for 29mm and smaller motors. Heavy body tube and rakish plywood fins make for a tough and fun t' fly rocket.

Construction:
T' kit was neatly packaged in t' standard clear plastic bag, matey, with t' motor tube floatin' around in t' airframe tube, and a nylon chute, me bucko, pre-cut plywood fins, rings, matey, and launch lug inside a zip-lock bag. Ya scallywag! T' fins are excellent quality, well cut, warp free, shiver me timbers, and t' sharp ends taped t' prevent damagin' other parts o' t' kit. Blimey! T' instructions are clear but limited t' a single 8 1/2 by 11-inch page. Ahoy! Aye aye! It's a simple kit and elaborate instructions are unnecessary. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' other side o' t' page serves as t' package facin' and some advertisements for other kits. Begad! Ahoy! T' recommended motor list includes t' D12-3. Ya scallywag! Avast! Since just t' parts stacked on t' scale weigh in at over 10 ounces and since epoxy is recommended throughout, me bucko, I seriously question success with a D12. Begad! My first guess at finished weight, arrr, sans motor, shiver me timbers, is in t' 13 ounce range, which puts it over t' recommended weight for a D12-3.

Construction is pretty simple: glue t' rings t' t' motor tube, arrr, me bucko, glue t' motor tube into t' airframe, ya bilge rat, glue t' recovery loop into t' airframe, glue on t' fins and lug, and voila!

LOC/Precision Lil Nuke T' kit makes no provision for motor retention nor does it provide a motor block. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! T' instructions explain that a mount with no motor block is very versatile allowin' any motor t' be used and describes how t' provide a thrust rin' usin' 1/2-inch maskin' tape. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! No arguments there! They also explain friction fittin' t' motor t' prevent it kicking. Arrr! I have some misgivings about friction fittin' motor casings, especially expensive reloadables, so I added a pair o' holes and blind nuts in t' aft rin' t' provide positive motor retention. Blimey! A couple o' bucks at t' local hardware store will buy a pair o' blind nuts (or T-nuts), me hearties, me bucko, me hearties, a pair o' knurled-knob screws, me hearties, and a pair o' cast aluminum screen retainers, matey, which combine nicely t' make a tool-less motor retainer.

T' body tube is pre-marked for fin and launch lug locations. Begad! Begad! All that is required then is gluin' up! I deviated from t' instructions slightly by gluin' a fin onto t' airframe tube while gluin' t' rings onto t' motor tube. Begad! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' tube was then turned over and fillets added t' t' other side o' t' rings; I added t' second fin at t' same time. Begad! T' third fin was added and t' blind nuts were glued into t' aft ring. T' mount was glued in at this stage and fillets added per t' instructions. A dot o' maskin' tape was used t' keep t' epoxy out o' t' nut threads. T' shock cord mount and launch lugs were added next at t' same time as one o' set o' fillets was added t' t' fin roots. T' remainin' fins were filleted t' finish. Aye aye! This deviation in order is simply t' save on time and limit epoxy waste.

LOC/Precision Lil Nuke From long experience with launch rods, I've learned that a single long launch lug can be problematic especially on much used rods. Any crud or even slight bends in t' rod can cause t' lug t' bind producin' all sorts o' undesirable things includin' (but nay limited to) rod whip. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Because o' that, I cut t' 4-inch long lug down t' 1-inch sections, extended t' reference line, and placed one section at t' bottom and another near t' CG. T' remainder was tossed into t' scraps box and will no doubt find its way onto another project. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! I also added a set o' rail buttons, me bucko, me bucko, carefully mountin' t' buttons over t' centerin' rings.

T' fins are surface mount and I was a little disappointed with that. Ya scallywag! Avast! This is a pretty stout kit with a heavy wall airframe and plywood centerin' rings and fins, shiver me timbers, and I feel that through t' wall construction would make this rocket complete. Begad! I even considered cuttin' new fins with tabs. In t' end, I decided that it wouldn't be seein' that much action and went with t' kit's stock fins after roundin' t' leadin' and trailin' edges with t' belt sander. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! It would also have been a shame t' waste t' packaged ones anyway.

I was also a little disappointed with t' shock cord mount. While sound in idea (a loop o' nylon fixed t' t' inside o' t' airframe in a pool o' epoxy), t' material is short o' expectation. Aye aye! Blimey! Even t' Quest kits come with a Keelhaul®©™cord and I would prefer that over nylon. Blimey! Blimey! I had a bit o' trouble with t' anchor, matey, as t' knots were a bit hard t' get fully covered with epoxy t' produce t' smooth bump necessary t' prevent t' recovery system from snaggin' on it as it exits. Avast! Blimey! I've heard some remarks about t' elastic shock cord, but I can find no fault with it. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This one is good quality and sufficient size that it should last a good while providin' enough waddin' is used. Begad! Blimey! It's also easily replaceable by simply untyin' it from t' anchor loop and nose and tyin' in another. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! One could also easily swap it for a more typical tubular nylon or Keelhaul®©™cord.

T' parachute is very nice and made o' nylon with heavy nylon cord for shrouds..

I also made a 24mm adapter from scratch parts. Blimey! LOC indicates that a kit can be had from them if desired. Well, blow me down! A home rolled one is easy t' do, a six inch section be cut from BT-50H from Totally Tubular stock, me hearties, a six inch section o' 29mm cut from stock (from t' same source) and 3/8-inch rin' also cut from 29mm stock. Well, blow me down! A 4mm slice be taken out lengthwise o' t' six inch long 29mm tube and be glued usin' yellow glue t' t' 24mm stock. T' rin' be then glued onto one end, me bucko, ya bilge rat, allowin' an 1/8-inch t' hang over (to allow for t' thrust rin' on 24mm reloads), shiver me timbers, and finally a motor block be glued into t' 24mm tube at t' correct location for E9 and F21 motors. Ahoy! A 1-inch piece cut off a spent motor is used for a spacer when usin' short D and E motors.

Finishing:
T' only thin' in t' kit that even suggests a color scheme is on t' label.. Ahoy! Blimey! There are no decals. Begad! Blimey! T' builder is left t' his or her own devices and imagination for finishing.

T' spirals are minimal, so I went directly t' primer after sandpaperin' t' nose cone with coarse sandpaper, matey, t' body with medium grit, shiver me timbers, and t' fins with very fine sandpaper. Begad! T' nose looked pretty bad after t' first layer o' primer with scratches and "hairs" stickin' out everywhere. This was expected and is done on purpose t' get t' primer coat t' stick t' well t' t' plastic. Arrr! It was sanded again, with a bit finer paper this time and primed again. Arrr! Well, blow me down! T' whole thin' was sanded again, t' imperfections and finger prints were worked on until smooth and then another layer o' primer was applied. Arrr! T' whole rocket be sanded until very smooth with 400 grit paper. Blimey! I wanted this t' have a cool finish, matey, so I popped for a kit o' Duplicolor Mirage color changin' paint. It goes on in three steps: several coats o' primer, then a dozen or so thin coats o' color coat (the more layers, me bucko, t' more effect), shiver me timbers, and finally three layers o' clear protector coat. Ya scallywag! This is a lacquer and t' coats are quite thin but thar are many o' them so it comes out fairly heavy as paint goes. Well, blow me down! It's also very shiny and has a deep lookin' finish due t' t' number o' layers. Begad! Avast! I added some pinstripin' on t' sides and fins and me usual construction date, motor list, etc., on t' side near t' lug before t' final coats o' clear.

One could go a bit wild here, sand it with 800 or finer grit paper, arrr, arrr, wax, polish, etc. Arrr! I stopped at gloss mode on this rocket...it won't be used t' break any records or anythin' and it looks fast just layin' thar anyway!

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
It be flown on February 21st at t' club's launch on an AT E18-4. Aye aye! Fast, arrr, loud, straight, shiver me timbers, and cool flight! That pretty much says it all. All future flights will be made by me nephew.

Flight Rating: 5 out o' 5

Summary:
T' flight performance makes up for everythin' I've been whinin' about!

PROs:

  • Nice parachute!
  • Love t' simplicity.
  • Love how tough it is despite surface mount fins!
  • T' rakish fin design gives it a fast look even when it's just layin' there.

CONs:

  • Through-the-wall fins would make this an A+ kit. Arrr! They take a little more work but are worth t' effort.
  • I'm less than thrilled with t' nylon shock cord anchor.
  • No decals or anythin' t' dress it up

Overall Rating: 5 out o' 5

Other Reviews
  • LOC/Precision Lil' Nuke By Bill Eichelberger (October 7, 2012)

    The Lil' Nuke is a sleek, 3fnc rocket that is one of the more popular entry level rockets for mid-power rocketry.  When I got back into the hobby in 2001, my brother-in-law bought me a Lil' Nuke so that I'd have something other than my Estes fleet to fly at NARAM 43.  Tony and I had gotten back into the hobby in 1994, but he had spent the next seven years working his way up ...

  • LOC/Precision Lil' Nuke By Paul Gray

    The Lil' Nuke is a mid-power rocket part of LOC/Precision's Novice Kit series. It is single staged with a 29mm motor mount. The instructions of this kit were rather explicit. The assembly order was logical, but as far as I can remember, they did not have any illustrations. The kit came with all of the parts including an enormously thick paper body tube with lines pre-drawn to mark the fin ...

Flights

Comments:

avatar
R.P. (November 1, 2000)
I assembled this rocket with 5 min epoxy, no holes under the fins, and it held together fine, at least on the F52-8 engine. It was last seen disappearing against the clouds of a G64-10. I don't recommend G power unless you have VERY good tracking eyes.
avatar
B.C. (November 1, 2000)
IMO, the Lil Nuke is a fantastic rocket, especially given that it is reasonably priced. Granted, the tube does require spiral fills, if one is so inclined. I've flown mine numerous times on E SU and reloads, as well as F24-7 reloads without any problems. There's even room for Kaplow-style motor retention. For good measure, I drilled a series of 1/32 holes on the lines for fin placement. This will allow the epoxy on the root edge of the fin to seep inside the airframe and form little "rivets" to better anchor each fin in place. I used 15 minute epoxy for fin mounting, and 30 minute for fillets. I have yet to have a fin break off as of yet.
avatar
E.C. (January 1, 2001)
Rocket Flies very nicely and to my ideal height with average F motors. I've used as small as an F14, which isn't a very authoritative launch, but does work. When you install a G motor in it, it'll be semi-hard to track, because you get a lot of altitude.
avatar
B.W. (January 1, 2001)
This is a very cool rocket, I launched it on a North Coast engine, and it looks very nice in flight. The problem, I used weak glue (first high impulse without through the wall) and the fins came off sometime during the flight. Couldn't find them, but amazingly, it still went up perfectly straight and high! I made custom fins that looked kind of neat, they were forward swept, but it flew away during recovery on that flight. I loved that rocket.
avatar
T.B. (February 1, 2001)
I really love my Lil' Nuke - I used 5 min epoxy and also drilled small holes in the body tube for the epoxy to seep into and make epoxy rivets. I've launched mine on D12-3 and Aerotech E15-4 motors. No extra weight added to the nose and it flew straight and true Although, with the D12-3's it was a slow liftoff and didn't go more than a couple of hundred feet. This makes for a nice demo launch for school-yards or small parks. Next launch will be with a "F" motor. Can't wait.
avatar
R.Z. (May 1, 2001)
Matt Lemons of AHPRA built a Lil' Nuke several years ago...'glassed the fins on, cut the bottom off the nosecone, did NOT put any motor mount in it, and flew in on a K1100 AT motor...unfortunately, the delay was a bit short, and it separated, BUT he did find the airframe and motor casing...it survived!
avatar
J.R. (August 1, 2001)
I have built 2 of these kits and I like it very much, a well designed, well produced and well priced kit flow on everything from Estes D's to Aerotech G125's with no problems. One of my favorites.
avatar
T.P. (August 1, 2001)
The Lil' Nuke is one of the toughest, most indestructible rockets I know. If you build it with 30min or longer epoxy and stick a streamer in it you can take it supersonic repeatedly. I've personally flown a Nuke on E30, F40, G40, and H238 motors (all on the same day). The H238 easily tops 4000 feet. I've seen a Lil' Nuke built properly fly and recover over and over on H220, H270, and I385 motors. All of these were either transonic or supersonic flights. No fiberglass or anything fancy is required.
avatar
B.E. (September 1, 2001)
A great kit for the step up into mid-power. Being my first non-model rocket, I was all nerves when building the Lil' Nuke, not because it was difficult, but because I was afraid I was going to screw something up and CATO the poor thing. As it turned out, I need not have worried. It turned out fine, even without the benefit of TTW fins. No big deal. I used 90 minute epoxy (overkill) and as a result, it would take a heck of a hit to loosen those fins. The only problem I had was with the shock cord installation. I followed the instructions, but neglected to test the nose cone for fit before I epoxied the cord mount in. The nose cone has a deep set shoulder and bumped up against the mount when I first tried to install it. A little sanding around the bottom of the nose cone shoulder and I was back in business. Just measure the nose cone for clearance before you glue and you shouldn't have a problem.
avatar
J.T.E. (December 11, 2001)
I would just like to add a couple of comments about this rocket and LOC's Novice series in general. First the shock cord mount -- My first reaction was -- do what !! I tried it anyway -- Guess what it works - We have used it in my son's Onyx, a scratch built 2.6" rocket weighing about 2 lbs, and a VB38. None of the mounts have failed. In all 3 rockets I used NHP (National Hobbies Products) 5 minute Epoxy and it works great. The 2.6" rocket made about 10 flights on G80's and H 180's. Final flight was on the small Cesaroni J. Coupler was on too loose -- drag separation at burnout - pieces of rocket went everywhere -- shock cord mounts stayed intact. Secondly - the fin mounting - I have not tried the "epoxy rivets" method. Sounds good and I am going to try it on the Lil Nuke. I have used "dado slots" instead. This involves cutting slots about half way through the tube and tacking the fins on with medium CA and filleting with epoxy. I have used this method on the VB38, the PML Nimbus, and the Onyx. No fins lost yet despite some hard landings.
avatar
DMVL (January 25, 2002)
After rev?ing up my skills on model rockets, I wanted something which would take me to the door of Level 1 certification. After looking over this kit, I felt it looked like a good fit for my needs. It was easy to assemble with 10 minute epoxy. There are only two small diagrams in the instructions, but the instructions are on the back of the package front, which has a good enough picture for me. I have a standard paint scheme, so didn't worry about following the pictures I've seen. I tried epoxy putty for the first time for the fin fillets. Wow, great stuff and it can be easily sanded. I'm sure you'd break the fins before getting the fin roots to break. I going to practice a little before I use it again because the final fillet was much better than the first. As a cautious launcher, I stepped the rocket up one engine size at a time, starting at a D12-3 and ending at a G40-10. I have no doubt that this guy would be comfortable at much higher power. My favorite is the included fluorescent pink parachute, which is visible at apogee with the G40-10, even though the rest of the rocket is virtually impossible to see. It looks like a bright pink dot.
avatar
Y.L. (January 29, 2002)
This is a great little rocket. I've had two (both lost to rocket eating trees), and I've never had a complaint. If you use epoxy rivets (drilling a little line of holes down the line where the root edge of the fins will sit so that the epoxy will flow into the holes and create "rivets"), the rocket will be rock solid. If you don't beat up on it too much, the rocket should last a long time. I've flown mine on E15, E30s and an FSI E60 and it's a great flyer. I've heard people fly a Little Nuke on very big motors stock, so it's a tough little flyer. The only improvement I could see with the kit would be to add positive motor retention and perhaps use fiberglass strips at the fin roots, going from fin to fin to build up a "fin canister". Oh yeah, I have a kit for #3 in my appartment somewhere ;-)
avatar
S.B.P. (February 4, 2002)
Great rocket, very robust. I used sixty minute epoxy thickened with kevlar pulp and the epoxy rivets. There is no way these fins are coming off the paper tube will rip or tear first. It will fly on a large range of motors and delays. When I lose this one or it dies I will be getting another one.
avatar
D.R. (February 16, 2002)
The review didn't really make sense to me- I had the complete opposite experience. This was my first mid-power rocket kit, and I built it very simply, according to the instructions. No special glues or anything, just straight 5 minute with 30 minute fin fillets. I've punished it on everything up to an H220T and it has survived great. My favorite motor is the AT F40-7W reload- great flight to ~2000 feet (although the H238T is fun also). This rocket has separated and come in ballistic to have cracked a fin- no problems with the shock cord mount. A little 5 minute epoxy and it flew again the same day. Overall, this is an excellent kit for anyone venturing into high power or for those of us tired of flying K, L, and M motors.
avatar
D.W. (June 13, 2006)
Had this kit built for nearly 2 years, and just got to fly it last weekend (UKRA06). Lost my AP virginity to it, and loved every minute of it. First flight on a F25-6W, which was superb; second flight on a G40-10W, which flew out of sight, then drifted 2 miles before landing (the winds were VERY strong). Got it back both times unscathed. A FANTASTIC 1st AP rocket .... solid and as easy to build as an Estes kit .... highly recomended!

comment Post a Comment