Diameter: | 3.00 inches |
Manufacturer: | Yank Enterprises |
Style: | Scale |
By: Al Casper
![]() Figure 1: Components o' Yank Enterprise's 3" IRIS kit |
I chose t' three-inch exact scale IRIS kit for this evaluation. I also put t' flexible phenolic through a battery of tests comparin' it t' cardboard and regular phenolic airframe tubes.
T' three-inch IRIS kit (Figure 1) features a pre-slotted flexible phenolic airframe and payload section. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Also included: four 1/16 inch plywood fins, tube coupler, arrr, plastic nose cone, 1/4 inch centerin' rings, 38mm motor mount, shiver me timbers, 9/16 inch tubular nylon 15 foot (non-elastic) shock cord, decals, ya bilge rat, two quick links and eye bolts, arrr, and a quality 30 inch parachute. T' detailed instructions are adequately written and the illustrations are well done.
Buildin' The
IRIS
![]() Figure 2: Motor retention mod |
![]() Figure 3: Home-made fin attachment jig |
Step #3. T' motor mount is now installed. Begad! Here again, I did nay epoxy t' aft centerin' ring while installin' t' 38mm tube. Blimey! Well, blow me down! T' aft centerin' rin' is in place while the epoxy sets up on t' forward centerin' ring, shiver me timbers, but will be removed later.
Step #4. In building
the payload section, me hearties, arrr, I smeared t' epoxy on t' inside o' t' payload tube, not
on t' coupler tube, which would have oozed out and made a
mess.
![]() Figure 4: Fin reinforcement |
Step #6. I installed t' 1/4 inch launch lugs per t' instructions. Avast! T' Iris, which weighs in at 41 ounces without t' motor, ya bilge rat, me hearties, is a lot o' rocket for 1/4 inch lugs.
Step #7. T' recovery
system is installed in this step which be t' only one I had any problems
with. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! I had t' re-read t' instructions several times before it clicked in.
Once understood, arrr, me bucko, I believe this t' be a sound design (Figure 5 6). Arrr! I
added a small piece o' fiberglass cloth and wrapped it around t' area
where t' shock cords are epoxied together.
![]() Figure 5: Recovery system reinforcement |
![]() Figure 6: Recovery system reinforcement |
![]() Figure 7: Paint |
Sandin' a flexible phenolic airframe is no different than standard phenolic, me hearties, both o' which are much easier t' sand than cardboard tubes.
I used inexpensive Wal-Mart primer and paint, followin' t' instructions and provided diagram and was pleased with t' results (Figure 7). Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' decals have a low tack adhesive and require a smooth surface for good adhesion. Avast! Blimey! I sprayed Wal-Mart clear gloss paint over t' entire model t' give it a nice smooth protective finish over the silver paint, arrr, and provide a good base for t' decals.
Flexible
Phenolic
![]() Figure 8: Shredded phenolic tubing |
The flexible phenolic seems t' be a combination o' cardboard and phenolic. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Two thin layers o' phenolic form t' inside and outside o' t' tube with a kraft cardboard type o' material betwixt (Figure 8). Ahoy! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I decided t' compare the flexible phenolic with cardboard and standard phenolic tubing.
First I compressed t' tubes in a vise -- t' flexible phenolic cracked in several places, me bucko, but held together in one piece while t' standard phenolic shattered. Blimey! Next, I put t' flexible in water t' see how it would handle a water landin' -- after about 30 minutes, it was in almost perfect condition. Begad! I performed a zipper test on all three tube types -- t' flexible phenolic and cardboard performed about t' same, me bucko, while the standard phenolic suffered t' longest cut. Blimey! Blimey! In t' next test I struck both phenolic tubes with a hammer -- t' flexible phenolic again cracked, but held together while t' standard phenolic now has a clean gash t' same shape as the hammerhead. Blimey! Blimey! As a final test, I put t' flexible phenolic in a freezer overnight, which did nay seem t' affect it adversely.
Conclusion
![]() Figure 9: Launch! |
The low thrust motors were chosen mainly t' reduce t' liftoff-velocity in an effort t' obtain some nice photos. T' wind scrubbed t' G75-J Flight, arrr, and the H73-J powered t' first flight (Figure 9). T' computer simulations called for about an 8-second motor delay, me hearties, arrr, right betwixt a short and medium delay. I chose the medium for two reasons. First, matey, it would stress t' Iris, givin' it a good durability test durin' t' ejection process. Avast! Avast! Second, if t' Iris heads off into the wind like it should, t' longer delay will reduce t' walk t' recover the rocket.
T' IRIS was acceleratin' as the ejection occurred; t' long rigid shock cord appeared t' flex in a flat "U" shape, shiver me timbers, which then softened t' jolt as t' parachute opened. The result, a perfect deployment, and no sign o' any zipperin' from t' rigid shock cord. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! An H123-W provided t' power for t' second launch, me hearties, which was also perfect, except for a longer walk t' t' landin' site.
T' IRIS lists at $78.00 retail complete, matey, or $71.00 without a parachute, me bucko, a welcome choice t' have. Yank Enterprises has recently introduced an altitude package for their kits. Avast, me proud beauty! This package includes a drogue parachute, ya bilge rat, me bucko, a second shock cord, me bucko, and t' necessary components and hardware t' add dual deployment recovery t' your model. Aye aye! Yank Enterprises also offers custom fabrication -- at this time, arrr, fins and parachutes can be made t' your specifications.
Quality components, workmanship, and a sound design make t' Yank Enterprises three-inch Iris a kit worth lookin' into. Blimey! Visit their web site at http://www.yankenterprises.com.
Written and submitted by Al
Casper for Rocketry Online -- Copyright 1996-2000
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