Yank Enterprises IRIS (3")

Yank Enterprises - IRIS (3") {Kit}

Contributed by Al Casper

Diameter: 3.00 inches
Manufacturer: Yank Enterprises
Style: Scale
Yank Enterprises - IRIS (3")review is provided courtesy of:
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Yank Enterprises three inch IRIS featurin' Flexible Phenolic

Overview, arrr, Assembly Test Flights 

By: Al Casper
 


Figure 1: Components o' Yank Enterprise's 3" IRIS kit
Yank Enterprises and flexible phenolic are both relatively new t' high power rocketry. Avast! Avast! Blimey! Yank has introduced several new three-inch and four-inch high power rocket kits all featuring flexible phenolic airframes. 

I chose t' three-inch exact scale IRIS kit for this evaluation. I also put t' flexible phenolic through a battery of tests comparin' it t' cardboard and regular phenolic airframe tubes. 

T' three-inch IRIS kit (Figure 1) features a pre-slotted flexible phenolic airframe and payload section. Also included: four 1/16 inch plywood fins, tube coupler, me bucko, plastic nose cone, 1/4 inch centerin' rings, 38mm motor mount, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, 9/16 inch tubular nylon 15 foot (non-elastic) shock cord, decals, me bucko, two quick links and eye bolts, and a quality 30 inch parachute. Begad! T' detailed instructions are adequately written and the illustrations are well done. 

Buildin' The IRIS
 


Figure 2: Motor retention mod
Step #1. Although I intended t' follow t' instructions very closely for this review, matey, me hearties, I did make a few minor changes in steps 1, 3, and 7. Ya scallywag! Arrr! I added two #6-32 blind nuts (Figure 2) for motor retention. Ya scallywag! I also did nay epoxy t' aft (lower) centerin' rin' until step #5. 
 

Figure 3: Home-made fin attachment jig
Step #2. T' shock cord is attached t' t' centerin' rin' in this step. This be t' first time I have seen this method o' shock cord attachment usin' epoxy, matey, I wrapped a small piece of fiberglass cloth around t' connection just t' be sure. 

Step #3. T' motor mount is now installed. Well, blow me down! Here again, I did nay epoxy t' aft centerin' ring while installin' t' 38mm tube. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! T' aft centerin' rin' is in place while the epoxy sets up on t' forward centerin' ring, but will be removed later. 

Step #4. In building the payload section, ya bilge rat, I smeared t' epoxy on t' inside o' t' payload tube, not on t' coupler tube, which would have oozed out and made a mess. 
 


Figure 4: Fin reinforcement
Step #5. I used some assorted shop items t' form a jig t' aid in accurate fin attachment (Figure 3). After all four fins are set, arrr, me hearties, I removed t' aft centerin' rin' -- this is easily done with a #6-32 screw threaded into t' blind nut added in Step 1. Avast! Blimey! With the rin' removed (Figure 4), I added small pieces o' resin soaked fiberglass cloth between t' fins, motor mount tube, arrr, and inside o' t' airframe. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Finally, I epoxied t' aft centerin' rin' in place. 

Step #6. I installed t' 1/4 inch launch lugs per t' instructions. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' Iris, me hearties, which weighs in at 41 ounces without t' motor, is a lot o' rocket for 1/4 inch lugs. 

Step #7. T' recovery system is installed in this step which was t' only one I had any problems with. Begad! I had t' re-read t' instructions several times before it clicked in. Once understood, me bucko, I believe this t' be a sound design (Figure 5 6). Ya scallywag! I added a small piece o' fiberglass cloth and wrapped it around t' area where t' shock cords are epoxied together. 
 

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Figure 5: Recovery system reinforcement
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Figure 6: Recovery system reinforcement

 

Figure 7: Paint
Step #7A. Finishin' the IRIS be t' same as any standard phenolic model. Avast! T' spiral grooves are about the same depth as standard phenolic and are easy t' fill with Elmer's Carpenter's Interior Wood Filler. Aye aye! I regularly add a few drops o' water t' keep the filler soft. Ahoy! Two applications o' filler are required if you want to completely hide t' grooves. 

Sandin' a flexible phenolic airframe is no different than standard phenolic, both o' which are much easier t' sand than cardboard tubes. 

I used inexpensive Wal-Mart primer and paint, followin' t' instructions and provided diagram and was pleased with t' results (Figure 7). T' decals have a low tack adhesive and require a smooth surface for good adhesion. I sprayed Wal-Mart clear gloss paint over t' entire model t' give it a nice smooth protective finish over the silver paint, and provide a good base for t' decals. 

Flexible Phenolic
 


Figure 8: Shredded phenolic tubing
Ninety percent o' me fleet of high power rockets are NOT made o' phenolic, which is just too brittle for me. So, a kit featurin' flexible phenolic be a logical choice for me. 

The flexible phenolic seems t' be a combination o' cardboard and phenolic. Aye aye! Two thin layers o' phenolic form t' inside and outside o' t' tube with a kraft cardboard type o' material betwixt (Figure 8). Aye aye! Avast! I decided t' compare the flexible phenolic with cardboard and standard phenolic tubing. 

First I compressed t' tubes in a vise -- t' flexible phenolic cracked in several places, but held together in one piece while t' standard phenolic shattered. Next, ya bilge rat, me hearties, I put t' flexible in water t' see how it would handle a water landin' -- after about 30 minutes, arrr, it was in almost perfect condition. Well, blow me down! I performed a zipper test on all three tube types -- t' flexible phenolic and cardboard performed about t' same, while the standard phenolic suffered t' longest cut. In t' next test I struck both phenolic tubes with a hammer -- t' flexible phenolic again cracked, but held together while t' standard phenolic now has a clean gash t' same shape as the hammerhead. Well, blow me down! As a final test, arrr, shiver me timbers, I put t' flexible phenolic in a freezer overnight, which did nay seem t' affect it adversely. 

Conclusion
 


Figure 9: Launch!
Four days before t' March Tripoli Wisconsin Association at Bong Recreation Area in Wisconsin, it was an unheard o' 70 degrees. Blimey! However on launch day, it be windy and closer t' 40 degrees; perfect weather if you happen t' be testin' a new rocket. Arrr! My original plans were t' launch t' Iris twice on Blackjack motors, matey, first a G75-J, then an H73-J. 

The low thrust motors were chosen mainly t' reduce t' liftoff-velocity in an effort t' obtain some nice photos. Avast! T' wind scrubbed t' G75-J Flight, matey, ya bilge rat, me bucko, and the H73-J powered t' first flight (Figure 9). Aye aye! T' computer simulations called for about an 8-second motor delay, right betwixt a short and medium delay. I chose the medium for two reasons. Avast! First, it would stress t' Iris, matey, matey, shiver me timbers, givin' it a good durability test durin' t' ejection process. Second, if t' Iris heads off into the wind like it should, t' longer delay will reduce t' walk t' recover the rocket. 

T' IRIS was acceleratin' as the ejection occurred; t' long rigid shock cord appeared t' flex in a flat "U" shape, arrr, which then softened t' jolt as t' parachute opened. The result, a perfect deployment, matey, and no sign o' any zipperin' from t' rigid shock cord. Blimey! An H123-W provided t' power for t' second launch, matey, which was also perfect, except for a longer walk t' t' landin' site. 

T' IRIS lists at $78.00 retail complete, or $71.00 without a parachute, a welcome choice t' have. Yank Enterprises has recently introduced an altitude package for their kits. This package includes a drogue parachute, a second shock cord, and t' necessary components and hardware t' add dual deployment recovery t' your model. Yank Enterprises also offers custom fabrication -- at this time, shiver me timbers, fins and parachutes can be made t' your specifications. 

Quality components, workmanship, me bucko, and a sound design make t' Yank Enterprises three-inch Iris a kit worth lookin' into. Arrr! Visit their web site at http://www.yankenterprises.com

Written and submitted by Al Casper for Rocketry Online -- Copyright 1996-2000 
 

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