Brief:
1/64 scale model o' t' workhorse o' t' Soviet space program, me bucko, single stage kit that can be built t' fly on either a single 24mm motor or with an additional four 18mm motors.

T' kit was offered as a limited edition run several years ago and has long since sold out, shiver me timbers, although if you ask Sandman (his handle on various online forums) nicely, you might be able t' talk him into makin' another batch.

This review is based mainly on me first-place NARAM-50 scale entry, which was a significantly modified version of the kit, and included a 24mm motor plus 16 Micromaxx motors in t' boosters, fired usin' a customized spider ignition system. Begad! Arrr! I will try t' indicate customizations that are nay part o' t' kit, but t' photos might reflect me model, not necessarily what comes out o' t' box.

A photo album o' more detailed pictures, many in high resolution, matey, me bucko, ya bilge rat, can be viewed online.

Note that all references t' stages in this review are t' t' actual Soyuz vehicle, nay t' model rocket kit. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! The kit is strictly single stage.

Construction:
T' kit came packaged neatly in a surprisingly small box, shiver me timbers, but none o' t' fragile parts were even slightly damaged. In part, this was because they were packed usin' small pouches o' dog barf as padding. Blimey! Very cool, havin' a rocket kit come with its own recovery insulation.

T' kit does nay include a parts list, me hearties, ya bilge rat, but from memory and scannin' over t' model, me hearties, I think t' main components included:

• Hardwood dowel tower (custom machined)
• Balsa 3rd stage upper module (custom machined)
• BT-60 upper stage body tube
• Balsa 3rd stage lower transition (custom machined) ^**
• Balsa 2nd stage nose cone/cap ^**
• BT-55 second stage main body tube
• 4 BT-60 booster body tubes (lower section)
• 4 Balsa booster nose cones
• 24mm motor mount assembly (metal hook, rings, tc.)
• 4 18mm motor mount assemblies (no hooks)
• Basswood fin stock
• Laser-cut fiberboard details (interstage truss wrap, 3rd stage screens)
• Cardstock shrouds (2nd stage transitions, strap-on bodies, ya bilge rat, engine bells)
• Lots o' resin-cast details
• Balsa/Plastruct stock for smaller details
• Silver Monokote adhesive trim
• Waterslide decals
• Estes 18" plastic chute

^** - supplied as a single piece, me hearties, joined by a dowel

This is certainly nay a quick or easy build, and I would rate it every bit o' a 5 on t' 1-5 scale for difficulty. T' instructions are fairly well written and definitely from t' perspective o' an experienced modeler, ya bilge rat, but thar are several areas where you're given general guidelines or suggestions and left t' figure it out on your own. Begad! Aye aye! If you need help though, matey, Sandman is just an email away and is absolutely amazin' in his willingness t' bend over backwards t' help. Throughout me construction project, we probably swapped more than 50 notes, and thar were numerous instances where he would scramble and make either a replacement or a slightly customized part for me (sometimes free, shiver me timbers, sometimes for a reasonable fee).

OK, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, at t' start o' construction, me bucko, matey, arrr, you decide whether or nay t' load t' 4 strap-on boosters with functional 18mm motor tubes. If goin' for a single-motor configuration, you can skip a few construction steps but will miss out on the fun o' t' cluster. Ahoy! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! In me case, I skipped t' 18mm motor tubes in favor o' a highly customized series o' 6mm clusters, 4 per strap-on.

T' build t' lower sections o' t' strap-ons, you start with a short piece o' BT-60 tube, arrr, a pair o' centering rings, matey, and t' optional 18mm motor mount. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! If usin' t' mount, t' centerin' rings need t' be carefully marked with alignment ticks, ya bilge rat, as t' center hole for t' motor tube is off center quite a bit, and it's important t' try t' angle these through t' rocket's CG in case you don't light them all (avoids asymmetrical thrust). There's a sliver o' a tube coupler for t' top edge, t' which t' shroud (body) eventually is mounted. There's also a very nicely rendered cardstock cover disk for t' aft end that depicts t' locations o' various engine bells and details later in the process. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! If usin' t' 18mm cluster option, me hearties, though, shiver me timbers, this has t' be converted t' a removable assembly as it would cover up t' BT-20 tube.

T' strap-on bodies are formed mostly by cardstock shrouds, which are a lot o' fun t' make. Arrr! These are not standard/straight shrouds, instead taperin' t' mount t' t' main body tube at an angle. Begad! Compoundin' this challenge is the fact that t' nose cones have t' slip tightly into t' open top (from inside/below), ya bilge rat, and are in turn mounted at an opposin' angle t' mate up against a sloped transition section o' t' main body. Arrr! Yikes! For sport flying, a few gaps here and thar are probably nay a big deal, me hearties, but for NARAM scale this was extremely challenging, arrr, especially since I chose t' paint these separately before mounting, shiver me timbers, and therefore could nay really get a good fit check until very late in the process. My fin spans were off as much as 15mm, so I wound up havin' t' make some funky little clamps t' gradually pull t' strap-ons back into position and hold them overnight while I used some thin epoxy t' keep them in place.

Fins, arrr, matey, by t' way, ya bilge rat, are very tiny and cut by hand from basswood per a cardstock pattern. Avast, me proud beauty! I went a little above and beyond, ya bilge rat, makin' t' fin mountin' platform from balsa--the fins were detachable on t' real thing, me hearties, me bucko, and nay mounted until the vehicle was at t' pad.

For some additional fun, thar's one other scale-like step you could choose t' take. Arrr! Blimey! T' aft end o' each strap-on body is nay actually round. This is because thar are fairings that mount t' t' second stage that would butt up against t' strap-on bodies. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! There's actually a small "step" cut across t' inside edge o' t' BT-60 body tube t' flatten it, ya bilge rat, matey, ya bilge rat, which I then sealed off with a piece o' cardstock and a little wedge o' balsa (see photos). Avast! Blimey! Without doin' that, t' strap-ons will really be stickin' out too far at t' aft end and t' gaps would be pretty glaring, plus I'd imagine that would throw t' thrust angles off a bit o' any motors in t' strap-ons...

T' second stage (main body) is probably t' easiest portion o' t' assembly. Ya scallywag! T' aft end gets a standard BT-50 motor tube/centerin' rings/metal hook motor assembly. Ahoy! T' forward end has two opposin' transitions made from paper shrouds, supported by a couple fiberboard centerin' rings. Ya scallywag! As mentioned earlier, thar are some resin-cast details for the aft end as well--4 fairings and 4 auxiliary motors.

At this point, me bucko, me hearties, you could glue t' strap-ons t' t' second stage, me hearties, but, shiver me timbers, arrr, as I indicated, paintin' could be an issue. Arrr! T' bottom section o' t' strap-ons is painted orange, t' upper section gray (not white or olive green, me hearties, shiver me timbers, me bucko, a common mistake--see finishin' details), and thar's a silver Monokote wrap that accents them as well. Begad! Arrr! Maskin' for this, plus tryin' t' apply t' Monokote after they're mounted strikes me as insanely difficult, especially since t' second stage is all gray (no orange). Avast, me proud beauty! Wait until after everythin' is painted t' assemble t' strap-ons and second stage.

Mountin' o' t' launch lug is one o' those vague parts I had warned about--the instructions simply say to mount a pair o' lugs after t' assembly, but offer no suggestions for where. On somethin' with this many diameters and such complex geometry, arrr, that's nay exactly an easy decision. Well, blow me down! Blimey! In me case, I had planned on usin' a fly-away pop lug, so all I needed t' do was drill a couple small holes for a couple pins from me pop lug plate.

Movin' on t' t' interstage truss and upper stage, I started t' really deviate from t' standard kit even more. T' interstage truss is a grid pattern laser-cut from cardboard. Ahoy! As such, it would nay provide much strength holding the two sections together durin' thrust with only 12 small connection points. Avast! [Note: All t' early versions o' t' kit, includin' mine, had a truss that incorrectly only included 10 sections, nay 12.] T' way Sandman got around this be to leave t' dowel used t' turn t' balsa pieces on t' lathe in them so thar's a strong ¼" round dowel holdin' t' 2nd stage nose cone t' t' 3rd stage. This also does a great job o' keepin' t' two sections vertically aligned. Ya scallywag! Unfortunately, thar was no big honkin' pipe connectin' t' stages on t' real vehicle, so I had t' come up with somethin' different. Arrr! I decided t' cut out t' dowel (leavin' a fair amount o' filling/finishin' work t' hide the results), shiver me timbers, ditch t' cardboard truss, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and make me own from music wire. Ahoy! I used 0.050" wire originally (shown in the detail photos), me bucko, but found despite me efforts t' bend them as close t' spec as possible, ya bilge rat, me bucko, they did nay line up perfectly with t' carefully drilled mountin' holes I had drilled, me hearties, and attemptin' t' bend them after I'd mounted them in one half tended t' break away at t' balsa instead. Avast, me proud beauty! As a result, arrr, I scrapped t' music wire and went with 0.050" brass rod instead--same scale accuracy, arrr, matey, but much easier t' work with. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! T' finished model photos feature t' brass truss, but I was too behind schedule while buildin' it t' have caught decent shots durin' t' construction.

There's also a pretty cool embossed wrap t' go around t' second stage just below t' interstage truss. Unfortunately for me, that wrap had flattened out almost completely after t' years o' storage, and Sandman's tool had pretty much worn down over t' years, shiver me timbers, so t' replacements he tried t' make for me were no better.

T' third stage construction, aside from t' details, me hearties, me hearties, is pretty quick and easy as well. Arrr! It consists o' a lower section o' balsa (very nicely turned), a short section o' BT-60 (in me case thar was a significant gaffe in the length, shiver me timbers, which has since corrected on his other kits), arrr, arrr, and a balsa nose section that is a work o' art in terms of quality o' t' machining. Ya scallywag! A hardwood dowel tower goes into t' end o' t' nose cone t' complete t' major structure. Before sealin' everythin' up though, you'll want t' add some nose weight t' brin' t' CG into an acceptable position. Aye aye! I dry-fit t' major components together, arrr, loaded up motors, ya bilge rat, and found that t' get a stable CG I needed t' add a couple ounces o' epoxy and lead sinkers, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, fillin' almost half o' t' body tube cavity.

T' rest o' t' construction is focused on t' ton o' details, matey, most o' which are provided, me hearties, though some are left to t' modeler t' make by hand. If you refer t' Peter Alway's Rockets O' T' World drawing, you'll find most of the details included on his drawin' are reflected in this kit but nay quite all. Begad! If you have t' more detailed Minakov drawings (available from NARTS in t' Russian Scale Data Pack), you'll find that while this kit is dimensionally based upon those drawings, however, t' level o' detail doesn't get down t' those prints. Well, blow me down! That's nay a knock on t' kit but a testimony t' t' amazin' richness o' t' Minakov drawings.

Strap-on details include a couple resin vents per booster and a you-cut-it umbilical and conduit piece. Well, blow me down! On the aft end, me bucko, thar's some amazin' detail work involved. Begad! Blimey! I had previously mentioned t' finely drawn paper disk that can be used as a locator. Ahoy! Blimey! There's also a small "platform" pattern from paper that creates t' proper cant for the engine bells. T' engine bells themselves are paper shroud wraps. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! Blimey! In me case, since I was goin' t' have functional motors inside each one, I painted t' inside o' each with a very thin epoxy. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Blimey! As an added touch, matey, matey, I also glued a single wrap o' Keelhaul®©™® thread around each one t' serve as a semi-scale effort t' replicate t' tubin' around them. Ya scallywag! T' final detail on t' aft end be t' auxiliary motor "assembly", ya bilge rat, which consists o' a cast resin base plus a pair o' resin motors. Ahoy! The resin parts were o' decent quality, ya bilge rat, me hearties, me bucko, nay t' greatest, and do require a bit o' cleanup and void filling.

T' second stage has much less detail work--a set o' 4 cast fairings, 4 cast auxiliary motors, matey, me bucko, me bucko, 4 embossed butterfly hinges where t' strap-ons are attached, a resin conduit piece, and a you-cut-it balsa conduit.

T' upper stage includes t' most detail. Ya scallywag! For starters, arrr, ya bilge rat, thar are t' 4 screens towards t' top o' t' command module. Begad! Aye aye! These are made from a laser-cut cardboard panel and legs. Arrr! Ahoy! It's solid, nay screened, me bucko, and t' screen effect is achieved by a printed paper pattern that is t' be glued on after painting. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Bein' an anal-retentive scale modeler though, matey, I searched several stores for real screen that would be t' right size and pattern. Well, blow me down! After strikin' out, arrr, I noticed me very old screen door looked about right, me bucko, however, ya bilge rat, one evenin' when t' wife was out, I sliced away a few inches that fit t' bill nicely. Avast, me proud beauty! My poor dog be t' primary suspect in all household damage, matey, deservedly so, but in this case he took one for his master. T' things we do for our models...

There are about a dozen little resin doodads nay worth gettin' into, shiver me timbers, as well as 4 resin escape motors that go on the tower. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Sandman grouses in t' instructions that technically thar are also supposed t' be 4 more intermediate escape motors about 0.080" diameter plus two 6-motor clusters that are 0.050" diameter, which he be not goin' t' bother with. Ahoy! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! I did, makin' all out o' various pieces o' toothpicks.

Finishing:
Much like a Saturn, finishin' t' construction only offers a brief opportunity t' sit back, admire your work, matey, ya bilge rat, and let out a big "Whew!". Ya scallywag! T' finishin' is no picnic, shiver me timbers, with a total o' seven different painted colors involved. For the most part, matey, I used Krylon primer followed by various custom-mixed Testor's enamels sprayed on with a cheapo single-action external mix Badger airbrush.

One note on t' color scheme, me bucko, which will probably look "wrong" t' most casual fans o' t' Soyuz--the most popular photographs o' t' TM series are generally either t' poorly developed shots that look like t' main body is olive green, or launch pad shots that make it look white due t' t' frost on t' fuel tanks. Begad! Arrr! T' actual vehicle was mostly gray, supported me a number o' photos o' t' factory floor that show t' gray in good lighting.

Strap-ons were all painted gray, then masked for t' orange. Arrr! Avast! Fins were painted silver and t' aft end painted stainless. Begad! Ahoy! T' nozzles were painted red/copper inside. After all paint had cured, shiver me timbers, I applied an adhesive chrome for the silver metallic effect.

Second stage be all gray, me hearties, with t' aft end (resin motors) painted steel.

Upper stage starts out with a white base, matey, matey, then is masked t' paint t' middle section gray. Aye aye! More masking, shiver me timbers, then the lowest portion gets orange paint. Begad! Underneath, ya bilge rat, t' motors are a combination o' silver and copper. Avast, me proud beauty! T' motors, by the way, ya bilge rat, are nay covered in t' standard kit--I made 2 different 4-motor sets out o' paper shrouds from scale drawings.

T' tower is all white, shiver me timbers, though thar are brown sections on t' larger escape motors, shiver me timbers, and t' smaller escape motors have red nozzles.

T' kit is designed t' match either t' TM-11 round or t' TM-12 round. T' TM-11 be a mission involvin' live video and a reporter for t' Tokyo Broadcastin' System. Well, blow me down! Begad! T' TM-12 mission included Britain's first citizen in space, scientist Helen Sharman. Blimey! Begad! Each flight included t' flags o' t' respective participatin' countries, as well as corporate logos for TM-11. Well, blow me down! I decided t' model t' Tokyo Broadcastin' System TM-11 mission, and applied t' decals accordingly. T' decals for t' kit were provided by Excelsior Rocketry, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, which means they were excellent quality but very thin and extremely fragile. Well, blow me down! Avast! You do not want t' try applyin' these without first treatin' with Microscale's decal solution, ya bilge rat, and t' decal instructions make this very clear.

In me kit, t' decals o' t' Sony and TBS logos turned out t' be slightly oversized--not only non-scale, but so large that they would nay fit in t' proper area o' t' rocket. Arrr! Blimey! I didn't discover this until t' day before turn-in for NARAM, so had t' scramble t' scan, matey, resize, me hearties, and reprint a set on me own decal paper. Ya scallywag! Blimey! While mine fit better, they were not nearly as nice as Excelsior's.

Once all t' decals were set, I hit everythin' with 3 coats o' Testor's flat clear dullcoat, me bucko, which nay only helped nail t' scale-like finish, but also wound up makin' t' decals appear as though they were painted on, perfectly blendin' into t' painted background.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
Before startin' on t' flight report, I should probably include a few words about t' mechanism I used t' achieve the clustered ignition. Avast! When you start stretchin' beyond 4-6 motors, me bucko, clip-whips and/or spliced leads is nay a very effective ignition method, arrr, with t' current gettin' spread too far/too thin/too inconsistently t' reliably light them all. A more effective method that's been used, particularly in international competition, is "flash pan" ignition, arrr, where you essentially pour some black powder onto a pan, set t' rocket on top o' it, arrr, and light t' powder. While it does a good job o' lightin' t' motors, it also tends t' char t' aft end o' t' model pretty badly as well.

A few years ago, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' Meatball Rocketry team (Josh Tschirhart in particular) introduced what's referred t' as a spidered ignition system. While they didn't invent this, me bucko, they published an excellent R&D report and set o' plans that made this somethin' that a modeler with average skills could pull off, ya bilge rat, and Josh also changed t' Pyrodex, ya bilge rat, a much safer and more readily available powder alternative.

A spider is basically a section o' large pipe (in me case, me hearties, 4" PVC) with a small bowl sealed inside (mounted on top o' a removable centerin' rin' that bolts in). Aye aye! There are a series o' small brass tubes runnin' through t' top that line up with t' nozzles o' t' rocket motor cluster. Well, blow me down! T' interior bowl is filled with Pyrodex, matey, shiver me timbers, and when ignited (usin' a regular Estes igniter), ya bilge rat, t' resultin' flamin' particles go shootin' up t' brass tubes (vents), me hearties, eventually sneakin' up into t' nozzles o' t' black powder motors (this will not work on AP motors) t' light them.

Knowin' only a little about spiders and nay at all sure I could pull off a 17-motor cluster (Josh's spider was for an 8-motor Saturn), much less on t' small-scale MMX motors (Josh had done 18mm and 13mm motors), I turned t' a member o' our local club who had been usin' Josh's basic design for a couple years and enlisted his help. Blimey! T' guru, Steve Bostwick, me hearties, proceeded t' take me motor mount layout/design and one evenin' later had a basic bench test mock-up ready t' test fire. Ahoy! We managed t' light 3 o' 4 motors on t' test, and concluded that t' 4th failed because we didn't have a standoff, arrr, me hearties, which meant one motor was sittin' directly on top o' t' vent tube, ya bilge rat, sealin' it off.

Steve proceeded t' smartly knock off another full-sized version, matey, which also included telescopin' tubin' so that I could individually adjust each tube t' seat properly at t' pad. Well, blow me down! Begad! Given t' time crunch I was facin' buildin' the rocket, Steve's quick engineering/construction saved me what would have been weeks o' fiddlin' and tweaking, me hearties, and he basically flattened me learnin' curve.

Fast forward t' NARAM...

For scale, shiver me timbers, t' total score is composed o' two parts--static, which is about 3/4 o' t' total and represents how well t' model be built (finish, accuracy, me hearties, ya bilge rat, etc.) and flight, shiver me timbers, which is about 1/4 o' t' score, and in part based on the complexity o' t' flight (staging, clustering, etc. Blimey! get extra points). Well, blow me down! No matter how well you do in static, you can't place in t' event without a safe/stable flight.

When we reviewed t' static scores, I was tied for 4th behind some stunnin' models. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! However, with t' potential to max out me flight score with 17 clustered motors, I felt pretty good about me overall chances as no one else had quite as high a potential flight score. Blimey! I wanted t' first "lock" in me score with a qualified single-motor flight though in case somethin' went wrong with t' cluster and t' model was too badly damaged t' fly again. As an aside, arrr, me motto for t' week, which certainly applied t' this event, was "what could possibly go wrong? [insert big grin here]".

I loaded up an Aerotech D15-4 (reload), ya bilge rat, wantin' a little more thrust spike and total impulse than t' Estes D12, but also wantin' t' make sure I got it back smartly and safely. Liftoff be actually a bit slow, probably due t' my added nose weight, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and t' rocket weathercocked a little bit but generally few fine. T' -4, shiver me timbers, arrr, shortest delay available for t' motor, ya bilge rat, arrr, was a bit too long and it deployed just after it had turned over. Well, blow me down! Avast! I had gone with 2-piece recovery and ditched t' cheesy plastic chute for a pair o' 18" nylon chutes. Ahoy! Other than breakin' off one small resin detail from t' upper stage, t' rocket be unblemished.

As t' rest o' t' day played out, a few o' t' competitors who were behind me in static had passed over me by flyin' more complex flights, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, so I had t' go for t' cluster for me second (and last) flight. Begad! I had spent t' better part o' 2 hours casually preppin' t' 16 MMX motors (and went with an E9-4 central) and loadin' up t' spider. By the time I hauled everythin' out t' t' pad, shiver me timbers, I had drawn a pretty decent crowd, no doubt in part because I had boasted that havin' nay had any mishaps so far in t' week, arrr, this would be me "Best Midwest Qualified Flight Award--Record Trial" (I'm a two-time winner, and no one has ever won 3 o' this award given every year t' t' most spectacular flight failure at NARAM). T' sun was bakin' down on me as I fidgeted with t' tubes, slidin' t' rocket on, matey, me hearties, off, on again, me bucko, off again, matey, shiver me timbers, etc. Begad! workin' on t' alignment. Avast! I had somehow managed t' misplace me needle nose pliers, shiver me timbers, and rather than make another trip back t' t' car 200 yards away, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I pressed on with as well as I could do usin' fingers. After about 15 minutes, I was cooked and decided that with t' way t' points system worked, ya bilge rat, anythin' more than 11 motors lightin' would achieve a max, so I left a 4-motor cluster set with a nearly 3/8" gap, far too wide for t' spider to reach.

I stepped back, raised me paddle t' signal t' t' RSO that I was ready for launch, matey, matey, arrr, and said a few prayers. Aye aye! Arrr! Blimey! The countdown hit zero, me bucko, t' spider lit with a hissin' sound, and t' rocket took off skyward (the launch photo credit goes to George Gassaway, who caught it beautifully). Blimey! Blimey! I got a kick out o' t' folks who were tryin' t' shoot pictures o' the cluster in flight, as me simulations show t' MMX's burn out before t' rocket clears he rod, me hearties, and t' E9-4 does all the real work.

Recovery:
Flight/recovery pros: gettin' a Soyuz stable with such tiny fins is challengin' but this kit is well designed and flies very well.

Flight/recovery cons: given t' superb quality o' every other aspect o' t' kit, ya bilge rat, t' plastic chute is really shockingly bad and a bit undersized, however, certainly it's reasonable t' expect that anyone buildin' this has probably picked up a good quality spare chute or two, so it's nay that big a deal. If any corners needed t' be cut, this be t' corner I'd cut...

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a terrific kit, ya bilge rat, and while I certainly went a bit over t' top for t' NARAM scale competition, it can be a perfectly fine sport model and would be a fun although somewhat challengin' build. Blimey! Roachwerks kits are well researched, very accurate, me bucko, reliable fliers, arrr, and backed by outstandin' customer support.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5