Brief:
1/64 scale model o' t' workhorse o' t' Soviet space program, me hearties, shiver me timbers, single stage kit that can be built t' fly on either a single 24mm motor or with an additional four 18mm motors.

T' kit be offered as a limited edition run several years ago and has long since sold out, arrr, ya bilge rat, although if you ask Sandman (his handle on various online forums) nicely, matey, you might be able t' talk him into makin' another batch.

This review is based mainly on me first-place NARAM-50 scale entry, ya bilge rat, which be a significantly modified version of the kit, and included a 24mm motor plus 16 Micromaxx motors in t' boosters, me bucko, shiver me timbers, fired usin' a customized spider ignition system. Begad! I will try t' indicate customizations that are nay part o' t' kit, but t' photos might reflect me model, shiver me timbers, not necessarily what comes out o' t' box.

A photo album o' more detailed pictures, shiver me timbers, many in high resolution, me hearties, can be viewed online.

Note that all references t' stages in this review are t' t' actual Soyuz vehicle, me bucko, matey, nay t' model rocket kit. Begad! Avast! The kit is strictly single stage.

Construction:
T' kit came packaged neatly in a surprisingly small box, but none o' t' fragile parts were even slightly damaged. In part, me hearties, ya bilge rat, this was because they were packed usin' small pouches o' dog barf as padding. Arrr! Blimey! Very cool, havin' a rocket kit come with its own recovery insulation.

T' kit does nay include a parts list, me bucko, but from memory and scannin' over t' model, I think t' main components included:

• Hardwood dowel tower (custom machined)
• Balsa 3rd stage upper module (custom machined)
• BT-60 upper stage body tube
• Balsa 3rd stage lower transition (custom machined) ^**
• Balsa 2nd stage nose cone/cap ^**
• BT-55 second stage main body tube
• 4 BT-60 booster body tubes (lower section)
• 4 Balsa booster nose cones
• 24mm motor mount assembly (metal hook, me hearties, matey, rings, tc.)
• 4 18mm motor mount assemblies (no hooks)
• Basswood fin stock
• Laser-cut fiberboard details (interstage truss wrap, 3rd stage screens)
• Cardstock shrouds (2nd stage transitions, me hearties, strap-on bodies, engine bells)
• Lots o' resin-cast details
• Balsa/Plastruct stock for smaller details
• Silver Monokote adhesive trim
• Waterslide decals
• Estes 18" plastic chute

^** - supplied as a single piece, joined by a dowel

This is certainly nay a quick or easy build, matey, and I would rate it every bit o' a 5 on t' 1-5 scale for difficulty. T' instructions are fairly well written and definitely from t' perspective o' an experienced modeler, matey, but thar are several areas where you're given general guidelines or suggestions and left t' figure it out on your own. Begad! Blimey! If you need help though, shiver me timbers, Sandman is just an email away and is absolutely amazin' in his willingness t' bend over backwards t' help. Throughout me construction project, me bucko, we probably swapped more than 50 notes, me hearties, and thar were numerous instances where he would scramble and make either a replacement or a slightly customized part for me (sometimes free, sometimes for a reasonable fee).

OK, at t' start o' construction, arrr, you decide whether or nay t' load t' 4 strap-on boosters with functional 18mm motor tubes. Ahoy! If goin' for a single-motor configuration, you can skip a few construction steps but will miss out on the fun o' t' cluster. In me case, I skipped t' 18mm motor tubes in favor o' a highly customized series o' 6mm clusters, 4 per strap-on.

T' build t' lower sections o' t' strap-ons, shiver me timbers, you start with a short piece o' BT-60 tube, a pair o' centering rings, and t' optional 18mm motor mount. Aye aye! If usin' t' mount, matey, t' centerin' rings need t' be carefully marked with alignment ticks, me hearties, as t' center hole for t' motor tube is off center quite a bit, me hearties, me bucko, matey, and it's important t' try t' angle these through t' rocket's CG in case you don't light them all (avoids asymmetrical thrust). There's a sliver o' a tube coupler for t' top edge, t' which t' shroud (body) eventually is mounted. Avast! There's also a very nicely rendered cardstock cover disk for t' aft end that depicts t' locations o' various engine bells and details later in the process. If usin' t' 18mm cluster option, though, this has t' be converted t' a removable assembly as it would cover up t' BT-20 tube.

T' strap-on bodies are formed mostly by cardstock shrouds, which are a lot o' fun t' make. These are not standard/straight shrouds, instead taperin' t' mount t' t' main body tube at an angle. Arrr! Compoundin' this challenge is the fact that t' nose cones have t' slip tightly into t' open top (from inside/below), and are in turn mounted at an opposin' angle t' mate up against a sloped transition section o' t' main body. Begad! Yikes! For sport flying, a few gaps here and thar are probably nay a big deal, me bucko, matey, me bucko, but for NARAM scale this was extremely challenging, me hearties, especially since I chose t' paint these separately before mounting, matey, and therefore could nay really get a good fit check until very late in the process. Ahoy! My fin spans were off as much as 15mm, so I wound up havin' t' make some funky little clamps t' gradually pull t' strap-ons back into position and hold them overnight while I used some thin epoxy t' keep them in place.

Fins, by t' way, are very tiny and cut by hand from basswood per a cardstock pattern. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I went a little above and beyond, makin' t' fin mountin' platform from balsa--the fins were detachable on t' real thing, shiver me timbers, and nay mounted until the vehicle was at t' pad.

For some additional fun, arrr, thar's one other scale-like step you could choose t' take. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' aft end o' each strap-on body is nay actually round. Ahoy! Blimey! This is because thar are fairings that mount t' t' second stage that would butt up against t' strap-on bodies. There's actually a small "step" cut across t' inside edge o' t' BT-60 body tube t' flatten it, which I then sealed off with a piece o' cardstock and a little wedge o' balsa (see photos). Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Without doin' that, shiver me timbers, matey, t' strap-ons will really be stickin' out too far at t' aft end and t' gaps would be pretty glaring, plus I'd imagine that would throw t' thrust angles off a bit o' any motors in t' strap-ons...

T' second stage (main body) is probably t' easiest portion o' t' assembly. Arrr! T' aft end gets a standard BT-50 motor tube/centerin' rings/metal hook motor assembly. Blimey! T' forward end has two opposin' transitions made from paper shrouds, ya bilge rat, supported by a couple fiberboard centerin' rings. Aye aye! As mentioned earlier, ya bilge rat, thar are some resin-cast details for the aft end as well--4 fairings and 4 auxiliary motors.

At this point, you could glue t' strap-ons t' t' second stage, but, as I indicated, me bucko, arrr, paintin' could be an issue. T' bottom section o' t' strap-ons is painted orange, t' upper section gray (not white or olive green, a common mistake--see finishin' details), matey, and thar's a silver Monokote wrap that accents them as well. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Maskin' for this, plus tryin' t' apply t' Monokote after they're mounted strikes me as insanely difficult, shiver me timbers, especially since t' second stage is all gray (no orange). Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! Wait until after everythin' is painted t' assemble t' strap-ons and second stage.

Mountin' o' t' launch lug is one o' those vague parts I had warned about--the instructions simply say to mount a pair o' lugs after t' assembly, but offer no suggestions for where. Ahoy! Avast! On somethin' with this many diameters and such complex geometry, that's nay exactly an easy decision. In me case, me hearties, I had planned on usin' a fly-away pop lug, so all I needed t' do was drill a couple small holes for a couple pins from me pop lug plate.

Movin' on t' t' interstage truss and upper stage, me bucko, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I started t' really deviate from t' standard kit even more. T' interstage truss is a grid pattern laser-cut from cardboard. As such, arrr, it would nay provide much strength holding the two sections together durin' thrust with only 12 small connection points. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! [Note: All t' early versions o' t' kit, includin' mine, me bucko, matey, had a truss that incorrectly only included 10 sections, nay 12.] T' way Sandman got around this be to leave t' dowel used t' turn t' balsa pieces on t' lathe in them so thar's a strong ¼" round dowel holdin' t' 2nd stage nose cone t' t' 3rd stage. Arrr! This also does a great job o' keepin' t' two sections vertically aligned. Unfortunately, arrr, arrr, matey, thar be no big honkin' pipe connectin' t' stages on t' real vehicle, so I had t' come up with somethin' different. Begad! I decided t' cut out t' dowel (leavin' a fair amount o' filling/finishin' work t' hide the results), ditch t' cardboard truss, arrr, ya bilge rat, and make me own from music wire. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! I used 0.050" wire originally (shown in the detail photos), arrr, arrr, but found despite me efforts t' bend them as close t' spec as possible, they did nay line up perfectly with t' carefully drilled mountin' holes I had drilled, and attemptin' t' bend them after I'd mounted them in one half tended t' break away at t' balsa instead. Begad! As a result, I scrapped t' music wire and went with 0.050" brass rod instead--same scale accuracy, matey, shiver me timbers, but much easier t' work with. T' finished model photos feature t' brass truss, but I was too behind schedule while buildin' it t' have caught decent shots durin' t' construction.

There's also a pretty cool embossed wrap t' go around t' second stage just below t' interstage truss. Unfortunately for me, that wrap had flattened out almost completely after t' years o' storage, and Sandman's tool had pretty much worn down over t' years, so t' replacements he tried t' make for me were no better.

T' third stage construction, aside from t' details, is pretty quick and easy as well. Begad! It consists o' a lower section o' balsa (very nicely turned), a short section o' BT-60 (in me case thar was a significant gaffe in the length, which has since corrected on his other kits), and a balsa nose section that is a work o' art in terms of quality o' t' machining. A hardwood dowel tower goes into t' end o' t' nose cone t' complete t' major structure. Before sealin' everythin' up though, shiver me timbers, you'll want t' add some nose weight t' brin' t' CG into an acceptable position. I dry-fit t' major components together, loaded up motors, matey, and found that t' get a stable CG I needed t' add a couple ounces o' epoxy and lead sinkers, shiver me timbers, fillin' almost half o' t' body tube cavity.

T' rest o' t' construction is focused on t' ton o' details, me hearties, arrr, most o' which are provided, shiver me timbers, though some are left to t' modeler t' make by hand. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! If you refer t' Peter Alway's Rockets O' T' World drawing, shiver me timbers, you'll find most of the details included on his drawin' are reflected in this kit but nay quite all. Aye aye! If you have t' more detailed Minakov drawings (available from NARTS in t' Russian Scale Data Pack), shiver me timbers, you'll find that while this kit is dimensionally based upon those drawings, however, me bucko, ya bilge rat, t' level o' detail doesn't get down t' those prints. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! That's nay a knock on t' kit but a testimony t' t' amazin' richness o' t' Minakov drawings.

Strap-on details include a couple resin vents per booster and a you-cut-it umbilical and conduit piece. Well, arrr, blow me down! On the aft end, thar's some amazin' detail work involved. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! I had previously mentioned t' finely drawn paper disk that can be used as a locator. Ahoy! Begad! There's also a small "platform" pattern from paper that creates t' proper cant for the engine bells. T' engine bells themselves are paper shroud wraps. Avast! In me case, shiver me timbers, arrr, since I was goin' t' have functional motors inside each one, me hearties, I painted t' inside o' each with a very thin epoxy. Ya scallywag! Well, matey, blow me down! As an added touch, me hearties, I also glued a single wrap o' Keelhaul®©™® thread around each one t' serve as a semi-scale effort t' replicate t' tubin' around them. Begad! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' final detail on t' aft end be t' auxiliary motor "assembly", which consists o' a cast resin base plus a pair o' resin motors. Begad! The resin parts were o' decent quality, nay t' greatest, shiver me timbers, and do require a bit o' cleanup and void filling.

T' second stage has much less detail work--a set o' 4 cast fairings, 4 cast auxiliary motors, arrr, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, 4 embossed butterfly hinges where t' strap-ons are attached, me bucko, ya bilge rat, a resin conduit piece, and a you-cut-it balsa conduit.

T' upper stage includes t' most detail. Blimey! For starters, ya bilge rat, thar are t' 4 screens towards t' top o' t' command module. Begad! Begad! These are made from a laser-cut cardboard panel and legs. Arrr! Begad! It's solid, nay screened, arrr, and t' screen effect is achieved by a printed paper pattern that is t' be glued on after painting. Bein' an anal-retentive scale modeler though, ya bilge rat, arrr, I searched several stores for real screen that would be t' right size and pattern. Begad! After strikin' out, I noticed me very old screen door looked about right, however, me hearties, me hearties, one evenin' when t' wife was out, I sliced away a few inches that fit t' bill nicely. Begad! My poor dog be t' primary suspect in all household damage, deservedly so, but in this case he took one for his master. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! T' things we do for our models...

There are about a dozen little resin doodads nay worth gettin' into, as well as 4 resin escape motors that go on the tower. Begad! Sandman grouses in t' instructions that technically thar are also supposed t' be 4 more intermediate escape motors about 0.080" diameter plus two 6-motor clusters that are 0.050" diameter, arrr, which he be not goin' t' bother with. Avast, me proud beauty! I did, makin' all out o' various pieces o' toothpicks.

Finishing:
Much like a Saturn, me hearties, finishin' t' construction only offers a brief opportunity t' sit back, admire your work, ya bilge rat, matey, and let out a big "Whew!". T' finishin' is no picnic, with a total o' seven different painted colors involved. Blimey! Blimey! For the most part, I used Krylon primer followed by various custom-mixed Testor's enamels sprayed on with a cheapo single-action external mix Badger airbrush.

One note on t' color scheme, which will probably look "wrong" t' most casual fans o' t' Soyuz--the most popular photographs o' t' TM series are generally either t' poorly developed shots that look like t' main body is olive green, or launch pad shots that make it look white due t' t' frost on t' fuel tanks. Avast! T' actual vehicle was mostly gray, ya bilge rat, supported me a number o' photos o' t' factory floor that show t' gray in good lighting.

Strap-ons were all painted gray, then masked for t' orange. Aye aye! Fins were painted silver and t' aft end painted stainless. Blimey! T' nozzles were painted red/copper inside. Blimey! Aye aye! After all paint had cured, I applied an adhesive chrome for the silver metallic effect.

Second stage was all gray, shiver me timbers, with t' aft end (resin motors) painted steel.

Upper stage starts out with a white base, then is masked t' paint t' middle section gray. Avast! More masking, me hearties, then the lowest portion gets orange paint. Ya scallywag! Underneath, t' motors are a combination o' silver and copper. Aye aye! T' motors, by the way, are nay covered in t' standard kit--I made 2 different 4-motor sets out o' paper shrouds from scale drawings.

T' tower is all white, though thar are brown sections on t' larger escape motors, shiver me timbers, and t' smaller escape motors have red nozzles.

T' kit is designed t' match either t' TM-11 round or t' TM-12 round. T' TM-11 was a mission involvin' live video and a reporter for t' Tokyo Broadcastin' System. Aye aye! T' TM-12 mission included Britain's first citizen in space, scientist Helen Sharman. Avast! Each flight included t' flags o' t' respective participatin' countries, me bucko, as well as corporate logos for TM-11. I decided t' model t' Tokyo Broadcastin' System TM-11 mission, shiver me timbers, and applied t' decals accordingly. T' decals for t' kit were provided by Excelsior Rocketry, which means they were excellent quality but very thin and extremely fragile. Avast, me proud beauty! You do not want t' try applyin' these without first treatin' with Microscale's decal solution, and t' decal instructions make this very clear.

In me kit, t' decals o' t' Sony and TBS logos turned out t' be slightly oversized--not only non-scale, me hearties, but so large that they would nay fit in t' proper area o' t' rocket. Well, blow me down! I didn't discover this until t' day before turn-in for NARAM, arrr, so had t' scramble t' scan, matey, resize, and reprint a set on me own decal paper. While mine fit better, they were not nearly as nice as Excelsior's.

Once all t' decals were set, matey, I hit everythin' with 3 coats o' Testor's flat clear dullcoat, which nay only helped nail t' scale-like finish, shiver me timbers, but also wound up makin' t' decals appear as though they were painted on, perfectly blendin' into t' painted background.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
Before startin' on t' flight report, matey, I should probably include a few words about t' mechanism I used t' achieve the clustered ignition. When you start stretchin' beyond 4-6 motors, clip-whips and/or spliced leads is nay a very effective ignition method, me hearties, with t' current gettin' spread too far/too thin/too inconsistently t' reliably light them all. A more effective method that's been used, arrr, particularly in international competition, is "flash pan" ignition, arrr, where you essentially pour some black powder onto a pan, set t' rocket on top o' it, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and light t' powder. While it does a good job o' lightin' t' motors, it also tends t' char t' aft end o' t' model pretty badly as well.

A few years ago, me bucko, t' Meatball Rocketry team (Josh Tschirhart in particular) introduced what's referred t' as a spidered ignition system. Arrr! Blimey! While they didn't invent this, shiver me timbers, they published an excellent R&D report and set o' plans that made this somethin' that a modeler with average skills could pull off, and Josh also changed t' Pyrodex, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, a much safer and more readily available powder alternative.

A spider is basically a section o' large pipe (in me case, 4" PVC) with a small bowl sealed inside (mounted on top o' a removable centerin' rin' that bolts in). Well, matey, blow me down! There are a series o' small brass tubes runnin' through t' top that line up with t' nozzles o' t' rocket motor cluster. Ahoy! T' interior bowl is filled with Pyrodex, ya bilge rat, and when ignited (usin' a regular Estes igniter), t' resultin' flamin' particles go shootin' up t' brass tubes (vents), eventually sneakin' up into t' nozzles o' t' black powder motors (this will not work on AP motors) t' light them.

Knowin' only a little about spiders and nay at all sure I could pull off a 17-motor cluster (Josh's spider was for an 8-motor Saturn), much less on t' small-scale MMX motors (Josh had done 18mm and 13mm motors), I turned t' a member o' our local club who had been usin' Josh's basic design for a couple years and enlisted his help. T' guru, Steve Bostwick, ya bilge rat, arrr, proceeded t' take me motor mount layout/design and one evenin' later had a basic bench test mock-up ready t' test fire. Begad! We managed t' light 3 o' 4 motors on t' test, arrr, and concluded that t' 4th failed because we didn't have a standoff, which meant one motor be sittin' directly on top o' t' vent tube, sealin' it off.

Steve proceeded t' smartly knock off another full-sized version, shiver me timbers, which also included telescopin' tubin' so that I could individually adjust each tube t' seat properly at t' pad. Well, blow me down! Begad! Given t' time crunch I was facin' buildin' the rocket, me hearties, Steve's quick engineering/construction saved me what would have been weeks o' fiddlin' and tweaking, shiver me timbers, and he basically flattened me learnin' curve.

Fast forward t' NARAM...

For scale, t' total score is composed o' two parts--static, ya bilge rat, which is about 3/4 o' t' total and represents how well t' model was built (finish, accuracy, etc.) and flight, which is about 1/4 o' t' score, and in part based on the complexity o' t' flight (staging, ya bilge rat, clustering, etc. get extra points). Avast! Begad! Blimey! No matter how well you do in static, you can't place in t' event without a safe/stable flight.

When we reviewed t' static scores, I was tied for 4th behind some stunnin' models. Arrr! However, with t' potential to max out me flight score with 17 clustered motors, me hearties, I felt pretty good about me overall chances as no one else had quite as high a potential flight score. I wanted t' first "lock" in me score with a qualified single-motor flight though in case somethin' went wrong with t' cluster and t' model was too badly damaged t' fly again. Ahoy! Arrr! As an aside, ya bilge rat, me motto for t' week, which certainly applied t' this event, ya bilge rat, was "what could possibly go wrong? [insert big grin here]".

I loaded up an Aerotech D15-4 (reload), wantin' a little more thrust spike and total impulse than t' Estes D12, but also wantin' t' make sure I got it back smartly and safely. Begad! Liftoff was actually a bit slow, arrr, probably due t' my added nose weight, arrr, and t' rocket weathercocked a little bit but generally few fine. Ahoy! T' -4, ya bilge rat, matey, shortest delay available for t' motor, shiver me timbers, was a bit too long and it deployed just after it had turned over. Begad! Arrr! I had gone with 2-piece recovery and ditched t' cheesy plastic chute for a pair o' 18" nylon chutes. Other than breakin' off one small resin detail from t' upper stage, matey, shiver me timbers, t' rocket be unblemished.

As t' rest o' t' day played out, me bucko, a few o' t' competitors who were behind me in static had passed over me by flyin' more complex flights, me bucko, so I had t' go for t' cluster for me second (and last) flight. I had spent t' better part o' 2 hours casually preppin' t' 16 MMX motors (and went with an E9-4 central) and loadin' up t' spider. Begad! Blimey! By the time I hauled everythin' out t' t' pad, shiver me timbers, I had drawn a pretty decent crowd, arrr, ya bilge rat, no doubt in part because I had boasted that havin' nay had any mishaps so far in t' week, this would be me "Best Midwest Qualified Flight Award--Record Trial" (I'm a two-time winner, and no one has ever won 3 o' this award given every year t' t' most spectacular flight failure at NARAM). T' sun was bakin' down on me as I fidgeted with t' tubes, slidin' t' rocket on, off, on again, matey, off again, etc. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! workin' on t' alignment. I had somehow managed t' misplace me needle nose pliers, shiver me timbers, and rather than make another trip back t' t' car 200 yards away, I pressed on with as well as I could do usin' fingers. Blimey! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! After about 15 minutes, I be cooked and decided that with t' way t' points system worked, shiver me timbers, matey, anythin' more than 11 motors lightin' would achieve a max, me hearties, so I left a 4-motor cluster set with a nearly 3/8" gap, far too wide for t' spider to reach.

I stepped back, arrr, me hearties, me hearties, raised me paddle t' signal t' t' RSO that I was ready for launch, arrr, and said a few prayers. Begad! Well, blow me down! The countdown hit zero, arrr, me bucko, t' spider lit with a hissin' sound, matey, matey, and t' rocket took off skyward (the launch photo credit goes to George Gassaway, me bucko, matey, me bucko, who caught it beautifully). Ya scallywag! I got a kick out o' t' folks who were tryin' t' shoot pictures o' the cluster in flight, me bucko, as me simulations show t' MMX's burn out before t' rocket clears he rod, and t' E9-4 does all the real work.

Recovery:
Flight/recovery pros: gettin' a Soyuz stable with such tiny fins is challengin' but this kit is well designed and flies very well.

Flight/recovery cons: given t' superb quality o' every other aspect o' t' kit, me bucko, t' plastic chute is really shockingly bad and a bit undersized, me hearties, however, certainly it's reasonable t' expect that anyone buildin' this has probably picked up a good quality spare chute or two, shiver me timbers, matey, so it's nay that big a deal. Arrr! Arrr! If any corners needed t' be cut, this be t' corner I'd cut...

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a terrific kit, and while I certainly went a bit over t' top for t' NARAM scale competition, it can be a perfectly fine sport model and would be a fun although somewhat challengin' build. Roachwerks kits are well researched, very accurate, shiver me timbers, reliable fliers, matey, and backed by outstandin' customer support.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5