Public Missiles Little Lunar Express

Public Missiles - Little Lunar Express {Kit}

Contributed by Bob Morstadt

Construction Rating: starstarstarstar_borderstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstar_borderstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Diameter: 3.90 inches
Length: 35.00 inches
Manufacturer: Public Missiles
Style: Futuristic/Exotic

[Rocket Pic]Brief
T' Lunar Express Jr. Arrr! is a model based on t' 1950s Sci-Fi concept o' a single stage rocket that could go t' t' moon and back. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' model is capable o' takin' a 38mm motor, ya bilge rat, but has an adapter t' accommodate a 29mm motor.

Construction
T' kit has high quality like all t' PML kits and t' completed rocket is capable o' takin' a beatin' without damage. Begad! Well, blow me down! There are some tricky steps in t' directions, where epoxy must be poured into t' model betwixt some small gaps. Be sure t' follow t' directions carefully. Well, blow me down! T' model has no motor retention system, matey, shiver me timbers, so be aware o' this short-comin' at t' beginnin' o' t' construction.

I used t' 29mm adapter kit and made a retro-fit for t' motor retention system. I drilled a 3/32 inch hole through t' body and t' adaptor tube 1/2 inch from t' end o' t' rocket with t' adapter tube in place. Blimey! Arrr! I then made a bracket 2-3/8 inch long from 1/16" x 1/4" brass stock that I bought from a local hobby shop. Arrr! A 3/32 inch metal drill bit was used t' drill a hole through t' brass stock about 7/16" from t' forward end. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! I bent t' strip at about 2" t' form a retrainin' hook for t' motor. Ahoy! A 3/32" x 1/2" threaded bolt completes t' retention system. Ya scallywag! Blimey! [Motor Retention]

Finishing:
As usual one should use disposable rubber gloves t' build t' fillets on t' fins. Blimey! Well, arrr, blow me down! T' short main body tube required sandin' in order t' have a good match with t' nose cone and t' boat-tail part. Blimey! I did nay use t' kit decals. Blimey! I wanted a 1950's Sci-Fi look, arrr, so I painted t' model with Dutch Boy Instant Chrome (chrome aluminum 4101) paint. This gave t' desired look, me bucko, but t' finish was susceptible t' finger-prints no matter how long t' t' paint dried. Currently, me bucko, I am thinkin' o' tryin' clear coat on top o' t' chrome, me hearties, ya bilge rat, but this will require some experimentation t' be sure that it will work.

Construction Rating: 3 out o' 5

LaunchFlight
T' rocket flies straight with 6 oz. Ya scallywag! Begad! o' weight added t' t' nose.

My retention system worked well on t' maiden flight. Avast! I used an H180-M for t' maiden flight, me bucko, but this time delay is too long. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! Blimey! An H180-S should work better. As a result t' elastic came undone from t' nose cone "Kwik-Link". Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' nose cone buried itself in dirt, ya bilge rat, but did survive t' fall. Avast! Arrr! Blimey! Obviously, arrr, this is somethin' that should nay be repeated.

Recovery
T' piston ejection system works great. Be sure t' choose a time delay that is nay too long. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! Otherwise, too much stress may cause t' nose cone t' separate. A separate parachute for t' nose cone and body might be a good idea.

Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5

Summary
T' design o' t' rocket is a real eye-catcher and will appeal t' t' nostalgic Sci-Fi and fun days o' t' 1950s. Aye aye! A retention system is needed and separate parachutes for t' nose cone and body might be a good idea.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Other Reviews
  • Public Missiles Little Lunar Express By Gary Sinclair

    PML's Little Lunar Express is a well known HPR kit which has a 50's SciFi look. Recovery is via parachute which is ejected from the airframe using a PML piston. This kit comes with the following components: (1) 4" OD Ogive nosecone (a good one too) which has NO bottom (i.e. the bottom of the shoulder is missing allowing access to the inside of the nosecone). (1) 4" OD , 5.5" long ...

Flights

Comments:

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R.V. (July 1, 2001)
You used clear scotch tape to mask the paint? No wonder you had problems. I recommend 3M's long-lasting masking tape (the blue stuff). It works excellently.
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G.A.F. (October 2, 2003)
I used a Pro38 H153 for a successful Level 1 Certification. Retainer: This is really where your creative juices are required! I used masking tape(!)on an upper a lower section of the aluminum motor tube; setting the lower one just above the screw through a blind nut (my Prefecture was amazed!) drilled about 2" above the tail end. The screw held the engine in firmly. When I inspected the engine after the (successful) launch, the tape had pulled back along with the engine about 3/8"; not really a problem. For future launches, I plan to carefully cut 3/8" of the plastic tail boat to the 38mm center tube, then JB Weld on an Aeropack 38mm retainer. AEROPACK: The ONLY way to fly!! Comment on your wing flutter & breakoff: Before building this try encapsulating the wings in PML foam...you cannot believe how this "ties everything together". My wings are "Rock Steady".
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R.A.M. (August 28, 2005)
After many flights and many repairs. I have settled on the following. I am using an AT 29 mm H180-s. The short delay (6 sec.) is a little too long, so I drill into the delay charge to make it about 4 sec. I decided I needed more room for the straps and a bigger chute, so I shortened the 3" dia. piston tube to be about even with the 4" dia. airframe tube. I removed the piston and replaced it with a 8"x8" flame shield. I removed about a foot or more of the shock cord and replaced the chute with a 45" dia. chute. I have thickened the fin fillets by making epoxy dams when casting.

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