Brief:
EAT's latest offerin' is an amazin' 3 in one rocket. Begad! Look! Up in t' sky! It's a cluster! No, it's a 24mm transition rocket! No, me bucko, it's a sleek futuristic space plane! You can fly 3 completely different configurations on t' field t' same day usin' this very innovative design concept.

Construction:
I was initially hesitant t' pop for t' $36 (includes shipping) kit, but when I started lookin' over t' parts and part list, arrr, I began t' appreciate t' value in this. Begad! Ya scallywag! Blimey! You really do get for t' most part, three different rocket kits in this deal, and will have a significant amount o' time invested in t' build.

My kit was one o' t' early ones, shiver me timbers, and had two different (and conflicting) parts lists. Well, blow me down! Blimey! A summary o' what be included in me package includes:

Common parts:

• 1/16" basswood fin stock
• Templates and fin guides
• Keelhaul®©™® & elastic shock cord/swivel
• Waterslide decals
• Balsa nose cone
• BT-60 x 5" body tube
• TC-60 x 3" coupler (parachute can)
• Plywood bulkhead
• Mylar chute (Rockethead)
• 18/24mm motor mount adaptor kit
• TC-50 x 1" tube coupler (to be used as an E => D motor adapter)

Cluster version parts:

• 3 BT-20 x 9" body tubes
• Centerin' ring
• 3 18mm motor blocks
• Screw thread/nut (for motor retention)

Transition version parts:

• Balsa transition
• BT-50 x 4" body tube

Futuristic version parts:

• BT-50 x 13" body tube
• BT-20 x 7" side pod body tube
• Balsa nose cone (for side pod)
• 24mm motor block
• TC-60 x 1" coupler
• 2 BT-60 centerin' rings

All parts were very good quality and packed neatly in a surprisingly small box. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Generally, I find EAT's instructions t' be among t' best out there--clear, easy t' follow, and with plenty o' color photos t' help along the way. Arrr! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! In this case, shiver me timbers, thar was a supplement sheet that overrode some o' the standard instructions. Arrr! T' overrides were improvements in t' design and construction, though it did make it a bit confusin' hoppin' from "main" t' "supplemental" instructions throughout the construction. Avast!

Construction begins by cuttin' t' fins for all versions from t' basswood stock. Blimey! I enjoy cuttin' fins but got a little weary after cuttin' out t' 10 different fins (3 o' which are elliptical). Begad! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! I just had t' keep remindin' myself that I be buildin' three rockets, nay one. Avast, me proud beauty! At least with t' basswood, there was very little sandin' and fillin' o' grains necessary.

Next up is construction o' t' upper rocket body, me bucko, ya bilge rat, which is common t' all configurations. Begad! This starts with addin' nose weight t' t' nose cone. Begad! Begad! EAT provides about 40 BB's for weight, all o' which are needed, me bucko, arrr, along with a healthy dose o' epoxy t' keep them packed into t' nose cone. As t' epoxy starts t' set, you add an eye bolt for shock cord attachment and allow plenty of time t' dry while you work on t' rest o' t' kit.

T' upper body is a simple 5" length o' BT-60 tube, matey, which gets a launch lug attached. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! All o' t' fins for stability are on t' interchangeable lower sections.

T' last phase o' t' upper body construction be t' hardest, me hearties, me hearties, and most critical aspect o' t' project: t' parachute cup. T' parachute is housed inside a TC-60 coupler "can", shiver me timbers, which pops out o' t' BT-60 body tube, allowin' for wadding-free flight which reduces prep time. Begad! This also takes some of t' stin' out o' t' extra work required t' swap lower sections.

T' parachute cup is built by gluin' a bulkhead on one end, ya bilge rat, punchin' a pressure relief hole in t' can, me hearties, and sandin' until you get a good, smooth fit inside t' BT-60. Given t' summer humidity and likely flow o' hot ejection particles into t' upper body, arrr, I think t' "optional" step o' coating the outside o' t' coupler and t' inside o' t' BT-60 with CA and sanding smooth is a critical must-do step. Arrr! Begad! Blimey! In fact, t' get a smooth movement, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I wound up peelin' off a layer o' paper from t' coupler. Ya scallywag! T' resulting "rough" finish, even if sanded, arrr, would never have worked. Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Applyin' the thin CA enables a much smoother finish.

After finishin' t' upper/common body, matey, ya bilge rat, you can then move on t' work on the lower sections. T' first and easiest be t' transition body. Avast! Blimey! EAT provides a very nice balsa transition piece. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! You carve out a small groove and hole in this, me hearties, which enables t' Keelhaul®©™® to pass through without causin' a dimple on t' body tube. Arrr! Blimey! A Keelhaul®©™® tether is then passed through t' hole and epoxied into place. Blimey! This transition is then bonded t' a BT-50 body tube, and 3 fins attached usin' yellow glue. Avast! Ahoy! The instructions offer a good tip for maintainin' good fin alignment while waiting for t' glue t' set, tapin' t' fin from t' tip t' t' body tube. Ya scallywag! This looks like it would work for t' first, possibly even t' second fin, shiver me timbers, though I personally use a jig for most o' me fin alignments.

T' cluster version is also fairly simple t' build. You start by bondin' two BT-20 tubes together, then insertin' a piece o' threaded rod into t' seam and layerin' in a healthy dose o' glue. Arrr! This threaded rod will enable a very simple and effective method of motor retention--a simple nut in t' center o' t' triangular cluster (see photo). Once t' threaded rod is in place, arrr, t' third body tube is bonded.

T' upper portion o' t' cluster version consists o' a centerin' ring tacked on t' t' top o' t' BT-20 cluster and reinforced with plenty o' glue and some cardstock brace pieces. Avast, me proud beauty! While you're pourin' on t' glue, arrr, you can also attach t' Keelhaul®©™® tether for shock cord/recovery.

T' finish up t' cluster version, me hearties, 3 elliptical fins are glued into the joints where t' body tubes connect and are mounted on standard 120-degree orientation.

Last up is the futuristic body version, shiver me timbers, which is probably t' trickiest o' t' three t' build. It's a 24mm body, which doesn't exactly plug into t' BT-60 upper body, so you have t' start by makin' t' adapter assembly out o' a TC-60 coupler and pair of 60/50 centerin' rings. Ahoy! This is glued t' t' end o' t' BT-50 body tube, along with t' Keelhaul®©™® tether for recovery. Blimey! On t' other end o' t' body tube, 4 fins are tacked on, though t' alignment is a far cry from t' 90-degree approach (see photo). Blimey! In between t' upper fins goes a BT-20 side pod/nose cone. Blimey! A helpful finishin' tip in t' instructions warns that if you want t' paint this thin' two-tone, arrr, you should wait until after paintin' t' tack on t' side pod--though mask a bond line on each body tube first!

That's about all thar be t' t' construction. I wound up spendin' around 8 hours on this, sprinkled across several weeknights. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! On a typical Estes 1-4 scale, I would rate this somewhere around a 3 for skills and challenge, mainly due t' t' varyin' fin alignments and construction o' t' parachute canister.

Finishing:
I followed t' EAT sample color scheme for this, shiver me timbers, paintin' t' common upper body a gloss white, t' cluster a gloss red, t' transition a gloss blue, shiver me timbers, and the futuristic a two-tone green base and white side pod. Ahoy! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! All were preceded by two coats o' Krylon primer and a light sanding. Arrr! Blimey! After paintin' everything, ya bilge rat, I bonded the side pod t' t' futuristic body.

EAT provided a nice sheet o' water-slide decals for playin' around with. Aye aye! I applied a few t' each configuration, though I found t' decals extremely fragile so they tended t' break upon application. Begad! Arrr! Use extreme caution when applyin' these and don't even think about usin' one o' those settin' solutions that softens t' decals.

T' result is a gallery o' fairly neat-lookin' rockets, matey, shiver me timbers, though I'll admit my paint job be nowhere near as nice as t' one Nick got for t' instruction photos.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
T' extremely long list o' recommended motors on this one covers t' gamut of configurations. My transition version measured about 3.6oz and 17.5", matey, arrr, me hearties, and my futuristic came in at 4.9oz and 27", so you can use just about any leftover motors you've got on at least one version o' this kit.

Flight prep is a little tricky on these, me bucko, but once you figure it out, you're in for very quick and simple preppin' for each flight. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Whichever lower section you select is attached t' t' upper section by t' Keelhaul®©™® tether, ya bilge rat, which is threaded through a hole in t' bottom o' t' chute can. This loop is then threaded through a washer and attached t' a snap swivel. The swivel/washer combo prevents t' Keelhaul®©™® tether from slippin' back out o' t' hole. Ya scallywag! T' chute is then attached t' the swivel and packed in t' can. Arrr! Well, matey, blow me down! T' can is inserted into t' upper body, lower body inserted into t' upper, pack t' motor and launch!

I flew a first flight for each version over t' course o' about 30 minutes at a recent club launch. Aye aye! Begad! For t' transition, I chose a C6-5, makin' use o' the 18/24 adaptor. Straight up flight, matey, ejection at apogee, flawless path. Arrr! The second flight was usin' t' cluster version, shiver me timbers, and I "wimped out" with a set o' A8-3's (I had a bunch left over from various Blast Off flight packs). Straight up flight, ya bilge rat, ejection at apogee, flawless path. Ahoy! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' third configuration was t' futuristic, matey, ya bilge rat, which I decided t' spank with a D12-3. Begad! Begad! T' recommended delay is a 5 and I think that would have been better as mine be a bit early. Certainly no stability problems for any o' these, arrr, shiver me timbers, and with t' varying combinations available, you can fly anywhere from 100-2400 feet altitudes, makin' this a great rocket t' take out in just about any weather/field conditions.

Recovery:
Recovery, ya bilge rat, in me case, be t' real weakness t' this kit. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! I loved t' innovation of t' parachute canister and am goin' t' try t' adapt it in other kits I build in t' future. Unfortunately, ya bilge rat, me 3 flight experience on this resulted in zero chute deployments. Avast! T' fact that I fly on a large, tall grass field saved the rocket from any damage.

Recovery is supposed t' work, matey, arrr, roughly, shiver me timbers, as follows: ejection charges cause separation o' upper and lower body sections. As t' sections grow apart, the Keelhaul®©™® tether is pulled t' its limit. Ya scallywag! Blimey! When it hits that limit, me hearties, it begins t' pull the chute can out t' back o' t' upper section. Well, blow me down! Once t' can is out, t' upper body continues t' separate, arrr, pullin' t' elastic/Keelhaul®©™® out t' top o' t' can, arrr, eventually pullin' out t' chute. Arrr! I know this works, as Nick posted a few videos t' t' EMRR site demonstratin' it. Still, me bucko, despite the fact that I peeled away a layer o' paper, arrr, sanded down a perfectly smooth surface t' t' can and inside tube area, and even sprinkled in a little graphite powder lube, t' separation forces were nay enough t' overcome the nearly vacuum seal betwixt t' chute can and t' body tube. Ahoy! T' instructions call out for a vent hole in t' fin can, ya bilge rat, though I think an additional vent hole or two out t' body tube would be in order, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, and will try t' experiment with that in t' weeks ahead.

Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5 Yeah, it might be a bit generous, ya bilge rat, but t' FLIGHTS were great. Avast, me proud beauty! It be just t' recovery that was a problem, and t' soft grass field didn't result in any damage. Ya scallywag! Begad! I figure less than 3 would have t' be unstable.

Summary:
PROs: versatility, great innovations, arrr, and enjoyable and challengin' build.

CONs: recovery nay reliable enough, and might have been better off with a basic nose cone ejection approach.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5