Presented with written permission from RocketyPlanet:

Product Review by Lucas Kalathas
Thursday, me bucko, November 15, ya bilge rat, 2007

Contents o' t' PML Bull Puppy kit.

There are some companies that blend in with their competition, t' stock their items on t' shelf in hopes o' sellin' t' undemandin' customers. Others try t' provide t' cheapest products no matter what it takes t' do so. Ya scallywag! And in other instances, some companies struggle t' offer superior quality. Begad! Public Missiles Ltd. has been manufacturin' rocket kits for over a decade now, ya bilge rat, and they live by their mission: "Design and manufacture t' best rockets in t' world and give our customers t' best possible service. Period."

Scale kits o' military missiles have always caught me attention, and with t' Estes Bullpup 12-D bein' one o' me old favorites, t' choice be an easy one. Blimey! I purchased t' 3.0" Bull Puppy, arrr, but I wanted some upgrades that were nay stock in t' kit. I emailed PML with me questions, and just as expected, received t' reply only a few moments later.

I was, and wasn't, me bucko, shocked by readin' a "yes" after each o' me questions. I've had t' pleasure o' purchasin' from PML a few times before, so I expected their cooperation, but t' extent they go t' please their customers is simply astounding. Well, blow me down! Avast! I upgraded t' thicker G-10 fins (.093" from .062"), a 3.0" Intellicone, matey, 48" chute, and they even made me a 12x12" sheet o' G-10 for me electronics mountin' board.

T' nose cone and tail cone after sandin' and priming. Aye aye!

T' kit be packed and shipped, ya bilge rat, sittin' on me door only three days later. Blimey! Ahoy! How they do it, I still don't know, but it's amazing. (I must say packin' is yet again great, ya bilge rat, as nothin' even had a remote chance o' gettin' broken or bent). T' kit contained t' nosecone, arrr, shiver me timbers, pre-slotted boattail, matey, quantum tubin' with t' dado slots for t' canard fins, arrr, G-10 fiberglass fins (4 canard and 4 main), piston kit, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, about 12 feet o' tubular nylon, centerin' rings, matey, me bucko, me hearties, 38mm motor mount tube (9.5" long), me hearties, t' parachute, arrr, arrr, and launch lugs.

To begin like I always do, I test fit everythin' just t' make sure t' parts were all cut properly or if they needed any extra sandin' (and o' course, they fit perfectly). Aye aye! I made a few small additions t' t' rocket, which only needed me t' purchase a 3" coupler, more centerin' rings, and a few small hardware parts.

Glassin' t' inside o' t' piston tube. Arrr! T' final result.

I first washed and sanded t' nose and tailcone in hot water and with multiple sheets o' sandpaper t' remove t' mold-release coatin' so t' paint would adhere easier. Avast, me proud beauty! I also applied Bondo fill putty t' all t' abnormalities in t' cone and sanded t' fill t' small gaps in t' plastic seams. Avast! Avast! They were both then sprayed with gray Krylon primer (I will swap from gray t' white t' help identify any missed spots and these were primed first so when I was ready t' finish t' painting, I would have an all gray rocket t' start with) and sanded t' a smooth finish.

I next began t' assemble t' piston system. I would change it from its stock configuration by applyin' a layer o' heavy fiberglass t' t' inside o' t' piston tube t' strengthen it, especially because t' lighter phenolic tubes seem t' show wear easier over time. Blimey! I used wax paper and a balloon t' help press t' fiberglass cloth t' t' sides and remove excess resin from t' cloth. Ahoy! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! It be me first time applyin' fiberglass t' anythin' and I must say I am very pleased with me results.

I then had a loop stitched into t' end o' t' nylon strap so that I could attach it t' t' sustainer with a quick link, matey, rather than epoxy it directly t' t' motor tube (this provides t' option o' removin' t' strap and piston in t' future while bein' able t' easily replace any part). Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' same would be done with t' upper tubular nylon shock cord (again, me hearties, PML suggested tyin' it permanently t' t' piston's D-ring). Ahoy! Blimey! I also inverted t' piston and epoxied t' bulkhead t' t' bottom o' t' piston rather than t' top. Begad! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! I feel I have more internal room for t' recovery system and I have had perfect results.

Business end o' t' Intellicone.

Next up, I worked on t' Intellicone tube insert. Arrr! This be a quick-n-easy step in t' buildin' process and only takes about 10 minutes or possibly longer dependin' on your epoxy cure time. First you need t' glue t' two cap circles together and drill either one or two 3/32" holes (through t' phenolic tube as well) for an attachment point (PML provides two screws for you). On t' other side o' t' tube, I epoxied t' other provided bulkhead flush with t' aft and I filled t' center hole with Bondo. Avast! Arrr! After it's all dry, that's all thar be t' it.

T' next step be t' add t' canard fins by addin' five minute epoxy t' t' fin base and dado slots. Begad! Blimey! I used me Estes fin alignment jig t' make sure they were on straight (yes, me hearties, it works with high power rockets as well). Well, blow me down! Blimey! Thirty minute epoxy fillets were added t' them after all four were attached and cured. Arrr! Blimey! I use a method in which I place painter's tape t' t' sides o' and on t' fin, shiver me timbers, put epoxy along t' joint, and then use t' ¾" launch lugs that PML sent (since I would be usin' rail guides instead) t' smooth out t' fillets. Begad! Blimey! I applied Bondo on top o' t' fillets t' help smooth out t' transition.

Estes fin guide even works on high power rockets!

T' fins were given a bevel usin' a Dremel "Lawn Mower and Garden Tool Sharpener" (a neat suggestion given t' me by Darrell Mobley) and works particularly well when you have limited tools available for use. Remember t' take care when usin' this tool while sandin' fiberglass fins; it can really make a lot o' dust, which can be quite harmful if an excessive amount is inhaled.

I next built and assembled t' coupler extension that I would mount onto t' tailcone. Avast! Aye aye! I decided t' make t' joint longer (2.5" rather than t' stock 0.5") so I could easily attach and remove t' tailcone/motor mount. Arrr! I like t' keep me rockets as modular as I can; if somethin' happens t' one part, arrr, arrr, I can swap it out much easier than many stock kits can. Begad! Avast! A U-bolt was added t' t' top centerin' rin' and t' parts were later assembled as you can see in t' images (it is best t' wait before attachin' it completely so you have access t' t' inside o' t' tailcone which is useful for securin' t' fins, which you will see later).

T' author added a larger mountin' flange t' t' tailcone. Ya scallywag!

T' next step was t' cut t' motor mount t' t' right length and attach t' Aeropack retainer body. Well, blow me down! Begad! I then sanded down t' aft o' t' tailcone so t' retainer would fit through t' openin' and be even with t' retainer cap. Begad! Arrr! I used JB Weld t' adhere t' retainer body into place. I glued it in separately so t' retainer cap would align up perfectly flat with t' cone when screwed on (when I dry fit t' motor mount with t' retainer attached, shiver me timbers, it was slightly cockeyed). Arrr! After that had set, arrr, I used JB Weld again t' secure t' motor mount tube t' t' inside o' t' retainer.

T' motor tube had cured and t' fins were now ready t' be mounted. Again, I used t' Estes fin alignment tool t' help keep them straight. Ahoy! I used 5 minute epoxy t' join them t' t' motor mount and some CA t' help keep them stiff while working. Begad! Well, blow me down! I am paranoid about fin strength, ya bilge rat, especially with t' problems I've had with me past rockets, so I decided t' make this one extra tough.

Fiberglass cloth be added t' strengthen t' fins. Avast, me proud beauty! Solid construction added by t' author in t' fin can and recovery mount attachment.

I cut out four sheets o' heavy fiberglass cloth and used them t' reinforce t' attachment o' t' fins. It was harder than I had originally expected because o' t' small workin' space, but good use o' a long dowel rod made it still possible. Avast, me proud beauty! Nay done yet though… I then filled t' boattail with PML expandin' foam t' yet again make sure those fins are goin' t' stay in place. And yes, external fin fillets are a must too.

After t' foam had cured, ya bilge rat, I cut t' excess down t' allow t' coupler extension t' fit, which I then epoxied into place. Begad! I needed a secure way t' fasten t' rocket and fin can together so I decided t' place a blind nut in t' coupler. Avast! Blimey! I placed t' tube onto t' fin can and drilled a hole through it and t' coupler so they would align correctly. Aye aye! Begad! Blimey! I then cut and sanded a small piece o' plywood t' match t' curvature o' t' coupler and glued it and t' blind nut into place. Avast, me proud beauty! T' top centerin' rings were then epoxied t' seal off t' top coupler, arrr, me bucko, which concluded t' fin can's construction.

T' last steps in t' construction o' t' PML Bull Puppy were under way. Well, blow me down! I filleted t' aft fins with thirty minute epoxy and covered them with Bondo exactly as I did t' front. Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! They were sanded and filled repeatedly until t' transitions were smooth. I was quite happy with t' end result; it sure is lookin' good!

Almost ready for paint.

Paintin' t' rocket isn't too difficult a task once it is completely built and ready. Begad! Blimey! I used, like I had mentioned before, ya bilge rat, alternatin' layers o' gray and white Krylon primer. I think it makes it easier t' judge how thick t' layer it and where I missed any spots. T' top primer coat is o' course white. I then used Krylon flat white paint as t' top coat (I had a hard time choosin' betwixt t' gloss and flat… I love t' shiny rockets but I decided t' stick with a more militaristic style, ya bilge rat, so t' flat be me choice). Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Here you can see it primed in both t' gray and white coats.

T' top coat o' flat white be very easy t' apply. Avast! Begad! I sprayed on three thin layers and gave them about a week o' cure time before movin' it and applyin' t' decals. T' decal sheet is very detailed, me bucko, includin' all decals similar t' that o' t' Estes kit. Blimey! T' only things you must supply are t' colored stripes. I chose t' use Monokote Trim (they suggest colored electrical tape) but I prefer t' Monokote for its thinness and clean look. After everythin' be complete, I sprayed a few final coats o' satin clear coat and sanded it down t' a smooth surface.

In me opinion, t' kit is o' top quality. Begad! Blimey! It has superior strength when built, shiver me timbers, stunnin' appearance, matey, arrr, and t' ability t' fly on a wide range o' motor sizes. Ya scallywag! Begad! Do nay hesitate t' buy from Public Missiles. Avast! Ya scallywag! They are a top notch company who offer products that are hard t' beat.

I flew t' BullPup on a Loki Research I405-LW reload at MDRA's Red Glare III. I be thrilled with t' flight performance, and especially Jeff's motors; they packed much more punch than I was expecting. Well, blow me down! Blimey! At t' RSO table, me hearties, t' rocket weighed in slightly over 5 pounds loaded. Aye aye! Blimey! T' motor tore off t' pad and shot t' bird t' 4,474 feet AGL. Avast! Blimey! I didn't have dual-deploy, so t' rocket drifted about 1.5 miles. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' only problem with t' flight was that t' Intellicone wire ripped off at ejection, so t' nosecone fell by itself, but luckily, shiver me timbers, t' cone was undamaged and t' electronics tube be recovered still within t' cone. Begad! Blimey! It had a crack in t' phenolic, shiver me timbers, but a small replacement will be easy. Avast! Blimey! Other than that (and a few dings in t' paint), shiver me timbers, arrr, ya bilge rat, I couldnt have asked for a better flight.

I have t' give PML and Jeff from Loki Research props for their awesome products!