Construction

Stock build for Level 1:

T' Horizon is a great kit!  I built it accordin' t' t' very thorough instructions with a couple o' exceptions:

• I did nay use t' kit supplied eyebolt on t' motor mount.  I replaced it with a 1/4" u-bolt from me local hardware store.
• I ordered an extra centerin' rin' and epoxied it just forward o' t' fins on t' motor tube.
• I did nay epoxy t' aft centerin' rin' t' t' motor tube until after t' tube had been installed in t' booster, me hearties, arrr, fins attached, and internal fillets applied t' t' fin/motor tube joints.
• I replaced t' kit supplied nylon shock cord strap and tubular nylon shock cord with a 1/4" tubular  kevlar shock cord (with loops).

Modifications for dual deployment and Level 2:

I knew I wanted t' eventually configure t' Horizon for dual deployment.  T' do this, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, I chose t' LOC 4" avionics bay with extended payload section.  T' LOC bay came with all t' hardware needed t' put t' bay together.  I assembled t' avionics bay accordin' t' t' instructions.  However, matey, I installed u-bolts on t' end caps in place o' t' eyebolts.  One leg o' t' u-bolt went into t' center hole o' t' end cap, me bucko, and I drilled another hole for t' second leg.  I could nay find forged or welded eyebolts at me local hardware store, ya bilge rat, me bucko, shiver me timbers, but they did carry u-bolts.  I didn't want t' suffer a recovery failure from an opened eyebolt!

I decided t' go with t' PerfectFlite MAWD for me altimeter since it was able t' record flight data in addition t' having dual pyro channels.  I installed t' MAWD mountin' hardware on t' plywood sled included with t' LOC bay.  I also mounted a 9V battery holder from Commonwealth Displays t' t' sled. I used an altimeter wirin' kit from Dog House Rocketry which included quick disconnect wirin' along with terminal blocks.

I drilled holes for t' terminal block screws and a pass through hole for t' terminal block wirin' in t' end caps for t' avionics bay.  I fastened t' terminal blocks usin' t' screws included in t' wirin' kit.  I passed t' terminal block wirin' through t' drilled holes and attached t' t' terminal blocks.  I then sealed t' holes with a dab o' epoxy.  I drilled a hole through t' switch band for a keyswitch from Aerocon Systems.  I soldered a wirin' connector t' t' switch then installed it in t' hole.  I drilled 3 static ports in t' switch band based on size information from t' MAWD manual.  Once everythin' be complete, I installed t' altimeter and a battery.  I connected christmas tree bulbs t' t' terminal blocks and powered up t' altimeter.  Once I verified continuity, I covered two o' t' holes and applied a vacuum t' t' third hole.  As soon as I let go, shiver me timbers, I could see t' apogee bulb light up followed by t' main bulb a couple o' seconds later.  Success!

I attached t' payload section t' t' avionics bay and drilled two 1/8" holes for t' attachment points.  I removed t' payload section and enlarged t' holes in t' avionics bay t' allow a t-nut t' be mounted from t' inside.  I used a dab o' epoxy t' fasten t' t-nuts t' t' avionics bay.  Once t' epoxy was dry, I re-attached t' payload section and installed t' 4-40 screws.  Lookin' good!

Last up was t' nose cone.  I drilled a hole in t' nose cone shoulder and dropped in a 1/4" nut.  With some minor fiddling, I was able t' get t' nut threaded onto t' end o' an eyebolt inserted into t' center hole o' t' nose cone.  I dripped some epoxy into t' hole t' secure t' nut from comin' loose.  Next, me bucko, I placed t' nose cone on top o' t' payload section and marked three equally spaced holes for 2-56 nylon shear pins.  I drilled t' first hole, matey, inserted a shear pin, ya bilge rat, then repeated this sequence for t' remainin' two screws.  I used a Sharpie t' number t' holes on both t' nose cone shoulder and inside t' payload section.