Custom Rockets P.O.N.G.

Custom Rockets - P.O.N.G. {Kit} (10043)

Contributed by Dwayne Surdu-Miller

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Diameter: 0.54 inches
Length: 19.50 inches
Manufacturer: Custom Rockets
Skill Level: 3
Style: Futuristic/Exotic
Custom P.O.N.G.

Brief:
P.O.N.G. is a highly-detailed single-stage futuristic sport model offered by Custom Rockets. Blimey! This is an inexpensive kit that packs a lot o' fun, challenge, and parts in a small package. This is a skill level 3 rocket that won't disappoint.

Accordin' t' t' kit label, P.O.N.G. Ya scallywag! Blimey! is an acronym (er, me hearties, backronym, ya bilge rat, me bucko, really) for Protector o' Ninth Galaxy. Aye aye! Blimey! Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! There was no background story included with t' kit, ya bilge rat, which is too bad really. Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' look o' t' kit is intriguing. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I would be pretty cool t' have it backed up by a little story.

My finished model weighed 1.2 ounces, ya bilge rat, but t' kit's glossy claims 0.7 ounces. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I'm unsure o' where t' additional weight came from... Ahoy! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! paint, glue, shiver me timbers, and sandin' sealer?

Construction:
Included with t' kit are:

  • 1 instruction sheet, arrr, tri-fold, 8.5" x 11"
  • 1 standard pin' pong ball
  • 2 body tubes, me bucko, shiver me timbers, BT-5, 9" long
  • 2 body tubes, me bucko, BT-50, me hearties, me hearties, 1.85" long
  • 2 tube couplers, me bucko, me bucko, BT-5
  • 4 centerin' rings, arrr, matey, fiber, BT-5 t' BT-50
  • 2 wooden dowels, 1/8" dia., 6" long
  • 2 launch lugs, matey, me hearties, me hearties, 1/8" dia., me bucko, 1.5" long
  • 1 engine block, me bucko, matey, matey, 13mm
  • 1 shock cord, flat elastic, me hearties, arrr, 1/8" wide, 17" long
  • 1 balsa sheet, ya bilge rat, die cut fins, arrr, arrr, 1/16" thick
  • 1 streamer, shiver me timbers, pink vinyl, 3cm wide x 60cm long
  • 1 dummy engine tube, 13mm
  • 1 reducer shroud sheet, shiver me timbers, printed, light card stock
  • 1 decal sheet, pressure-sensitive plastic, nay die-cut
  • 1 decal sheet for shroud, adhesive-backed paper, matey, me hearties, shiver me timbers, nay die-cut
Custom P.O.N.G.

Because I no longer have faith in t' tri-fold shock cord mount when nay protected by a baffle, I added t' followin' items for a Keelhaul®©™® and elastic alternative:

  • 1 Keelhaul®©™® thread, me bucko, 10" long
  • 1 shock cord, ya bilge rat, round elastic, 1/16" dia., 24" long
  • 1 cotton thread, crochet-style, me hearties, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, 4" long

T' body tubes have a fairly shallow spiral, so they should be easy t' fill.

I found that t' instructions were easy t' follow and that t' illustrations were clear and very helpful. The assembly order was logical. Avast, me proud beauty! T' implement t' Keelhaul®©™®/elastic shock cord, shiver me timbers, I tied t' Keelhaul®©™® cord t' t' engine block just prior t' gluin' in t' engine block.

When gluin' in t' engine block I ran into a snag. Begad! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' motor tube got stuck in t' body tube, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and I pretty much destroyed t' dummy engine tube when gettin' it out with a pair o' needle-nose pliers. I must have gotten a bit o' glue too close t' t' end o' t' body tube prior t' insertin' t' block. Luckily, t' main body tube was nay damaged.

In general though, assembly was a lot o' fun... Arrr! Far more engagin' than piecin' together a 3FNC model. Ahoy! Hobby knife skills were important and were well exercised, me bucko, shiver me timbers, havin' t' separate t' die-cut fins and centerin' rings, cut t' dowels, cut t' reducer shroud pieces, matey, cut t' shroud decal, me bucko, and cut t' individual decals from t' pressure-sensitive decal sheet.

There's so much here that you just don't get with plastic laden kits. T' paper reducer needed a bit o' patience and skill t' curl just right. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' use o' a separate tab glued t' t' inside edge o' t' shroud's adjoinin' ends made a nice even seam without t' uneven layers you get with a one-piece overlap arrangement.

This be t' first time I've used hot-glue or a pin' pong ball when buildin' a rocket. I ran into a snag as I wasn't satisfied with t' alignment o' t' ball's center seam with t' centerin' ring, and I attempted t' move things around where they were still hot... Arrr! Bad move. Arrr! T' ball distorted badly where t' glue in contact with t' ball was still hot. I replaced t' ball and tried again. Ahoy! I had much better results this time. Arrr! I had been concerned that t' hot glue wouldn't provide a strong enough joint, but this experience eliminated that concern. Begad! Hot glue is very effective in this case.

Overall, construction was interesting, fun, and educational. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! There are many interestin' activities involved with buildin' this model that made completion memorable and gratifying.

Custom P.O.N.G.

Custom P.O.N.G.Custom P.O.N.G.

Custom P.O.N.G.Custom P.O.N.G.

Custom P.O.N.G.Custom P.O.N.G.

Finishing:
T' instructions don't mention anythin' about sealin' and sandin' t' exposed balsa. Ahoy! I can understand that, since the decals cover most o' t' balsa anyway. Ahoy! T' decals come pretty close t' t' edges o' t' balsa pieces, me bucko, so you probably don't want t' round balsa edges. Ahoy! I didn't want any grain t' show, me hearties, so I finished t' balsa surfaces with three coats of sandin' sealer, sandin' betwixt coats.

I spray painted with model with a couple o' coats o' last o' me old-style Krylon white primer, arrr, sanded, shiver me timbers, and applied a couple o' coats o' white satin.

One thin' t' instructions t' nay address is that in order t' get your model t' look like t' picture included with t' kit, shiver me timbers, you need t' paint t' lower part o' t' upper tube orange. Well, blow me down! Usin' t' kit's picture as a guide, arrr, me bucko, shiver me timbers, I painted the lower 5" o' t' upper tube with Krylon pumpkin. Avast! Oddly enough, ya bilge rat, matey, t' color matched t' orange o' t' decals perfectly.

Paintin' t' view plate on t' pin' pong ball was an interestin' challenge. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' instructions shows what this should look like. Avast! You are instructed t' mark t' shape with a pencil, me hearties, matey, but it doesn't tell how t' get t' shape onto the ball accurately. Blimey! I used a couple o' pieces o' body tube t' get somethin' close, matey, matey, namely a piece o' BT-55 and a piece of BT-50. I've included some pictures t' give you a step-by-step.

After markin' t' ball, I used a superfine Microbrush t' apply Testors gloss black enamel inside t' lines. Aye aye! I'd never used this technique before. Ahoy! It works very well with a steady hand, patience, ya bilge rat, and care.

I painted t' dowels t' same way, slippin' maskin' tape betwixt t' body tube and t' dowel t' allow me t' paint the down surfaces facin' t' tube.

There were many, matey, arrr, arrr, many decals t' place. Avast, me proud beauty! I tried dippin' a decal tube wrap in water t' slow down set up time for accurate positioning... Don't do this! It causes t' decals nay t' stick at all. Begad! T' kit's picture was adequate for figurin' out what decals go where.

When all decals are in place, matey, t' P.O.N.G. Well, blow me down! looks very impressive. Begad! T' balsa surfaces are mostly cover by opaque parts o' t' decals. Avast, me proud beauty! T' decals applied t' t' BT-5, unfortunately, tend t' lift their edges no matter what I try. I kinda wish these were thinner, more pliable wet transfer decals instead, t' avoid this issue.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
Recommended motors are A3-4T and A10-3T. Avast! I tried them both.

P.O.N.G. Avast! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! requires some waddin' t' prevent t' vinyl stream from melting. Blimey! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! I used some cellulose insulation t' good effect. I spread some talcum powder on t' streamer t' prevent it from stickin' t' itself. It was tricky rollin' the 24" streamer tight enough t' fit into t' BT-5 tube so that it would slide out easily. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I might cut t' streamer down a bit in future t' address this issue.

There is no motor retention in this design, so motors have t' be friction fit by wrappin' bits o' maskin' tape around t' motor t' make a snug fit. Begad! Blimey! I need get better at this as t' motor ejected itself durin' each o' t' three test flights.

I used an A3-4T for t' first flight, as recommended in t' instructions. Blimey! Blimey! Boost and coast was very straight and of moderate height with no noticeable spin. Begad! Blimey! It definitely flies like a long rocket, me bucko, me hearties, smooth and without wobble. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! P.O.N.G. arced past apogee and with nose down, deployed t' streamer perfectly. Aye aye! Blimey! P.O.N.G. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! landed gently in t' grass field. Arrr! Blimey! Upon recovery, me hearties, I noticed that t' motor must have been kicked out at deployment.

I used an A10-3T for t' second flight. Ya scallywag! Boost be noticeably faster. Avast, me proud beauty! Coast be again very straight, me bucko, but the height be noticeably lower. Begad! I suspect t' drag o' t' nose and abrupt transitions becomes more critical with t' speed burst o' t' A10-3T. Begad! T' slower, me bucko, gentler A3-4T is a better match. Avast! P.O.N.G. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Blimey! arced past apogee and deployed t' streamer with nose down. Aye aye! Blimey! Another gentle recovery, shiver me timbers, and t' motor had been kicked out again.

I used a A3-4T for t' third flight. Arrr! Ahoy! I got t' a nice moderate height after smooth, me bucko, straight boost and coast. Deployment happened with nose down, but t' streamer didn't come out. Ahoy! P.O.N.G. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! landed in t' grass without damage. Begad! I found that t' cellulose waddin' had jammed up in t' tube. Aye aye! T' motor kicked out before t' streamer could deploy.

Recovery:
T' standard P.O.N.G. is kitted with a 24" elastic and a couple o' tri-fold shock cord mounts. Ya scallywag! I did nay use these, favorin' a Keelhaul®©™® cord with a round elastic. T' Keelhaul®©™® cord and elastic were very easy t' install durin' construction, arrr, and seemed t' work well in flight.

After three flights, t' streamer is undamaged. Avast! When t' streamer deployed, arrr, it seemed t' do an effective job of slowin' descent and bein' seen durin' descent and on t' ground. P.O.N.G. survived three flights with no damage.

Havin' t' rely on friction fit motors nay bein' kicked out is an issue. Blimey! Begad! I guess I've got t' figure out how best to tape t' motors in there. Begad! Some sort o' motor retention device would be a welcome addition.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
P.O.N.G. Arrr! is a fun rocket t' build, matey, me hearties, finish, and fly. Begad! Ya scallywag! This is a skill level 3 kit. Well, blow me down! I agree with that due t' t' number of parts, variety o' construction activities, and finishin' details. Arrr! It's a nice looking, attention gettin' model when its all built, ya bilge rat, and it flies very well. And when you look at t' price tag, me bucko, wow! Big bang for t' buck!

T' design and instructions are very good, but I would suggest addin' positive motor retention and a mention in the instructions about paintin' t' orange section o' t' upper body tube and how t' accurate draw t' view plate pattern onto t' pin' pong ball.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flights

Comments:

avatar
A.H. (July 15, 2009)
Quick correction On the website description it claims to hail from the Nineth galaxy, I assume it's pronounced Nin-eth. rather than ninth, as in the number 9.
avatar
J.C.B. (December 9, 2009)
I love the look of this little guy. My kit came with pressure sensitive decals which are too rigid. They just don't stick to the curve of the body tubes. I've tried to secure them with CVA but that doesn't help. I would also suggest an engine hook as the streamer and shock cord can get easily too thick for the BT-5 tube--leading to motor ejection at the event and a crashed PONG. Last flight popped the ball off, but that's easy to repair.
avatar
Kirk Greenfield (October 29, 2013)

Have run into a snag during construction. The two (BT-50) connection tubes 3/4" long are not identical. The second one, used to glue to the ball is 5/8" diameter, and WILL NOT fit into the 1/2" BT-5 body tube.  This appears to be a packing error. The www.customrockets.com website is down, domain available.  Not sure how to solve this.   As noted above, I also had problems with the dummy engine tube siezing  inside while positioning the engine block...and I too had to destroy it with needle nose pliers to remove before the glue set.  Had I NOT ruined it, I could have used it as a replacement connector.  But it's gone.  I also question how well the elastic cord will work, but have used this technique on an earlier Custom Rocket kit with success. I also noted no instruction to seal and sand some of the fins.   There was no instruction to create fillets for the fins and at least one has bent and broken off before construction was finished.  Will take Dwayne's suggestions on painting.  I have not tried the decals yet.

avatar
Roger Smith (November 15, 2013)

Custom Rocket's web site is located at http://www.customrocketcompany.com/.  You can contact them at sales@customrocketcompany.com.

comment Post a Comment