Custom Rockets P.O.N.G.

Custom Rockets - P.O.N.G. {Kit} (10043)

Contributed by Dwayne Surdu-Miller

Construction Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Flight Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstarstarstar_border
Diameter: 0.54 inches
Length: 19.50 inches
Manufacturer: Custom Rockets
Skill Level: 3
Style: Futuristic/Exotic
Custom P.O.N.G.

Brief:
P.O.N.G. Arrr! is a highly-detailed single-stage futuristic sport model offered by Custom Rockets. Blimey! This is an inexpensive kit that packs a lot o' fun, ya bilge rat, challenge, me hearties, arrr, arrr, and parts in a small package. Avast! Ya scallywag! This is a skill level 3 rocket that won't disappoint.

Accordin' t' t' kit label, P.O.N.G. is an acronym (er, ya bilge rat, backronym, really) for Protector o' Ninth Galaxy. Avast! There was no background story included with t' kit, shiver me timbers, matey, which is too bad really. Avast, me proud beauty! T' look o' t' kit is intriguing. Ahoy! I would be pretty cool t' have it backed up by a little story.

My finished model weighed 1.2 ounces, but t' kit's glossy claims 0.7 ounces. Begad! I'm unsure o' where t' additional weight came from... paint, glue, arrr, arrr, and sandin' sealer?

Construction:
Included with t' kit are:

  • 1 instruction sheet, tri-fold, 8.5" x 11"
  • 1 standard pin' pong ball
  • 2 body tubes, BT-5, arrr, ya bilge rat, 9" long
  • 2 body tubes, BT-50, shiver me timbers, 1.85" long
  • 2 tube couplers, BT-5
  • 4 centerin' rings, me bucko, ya bilge rat, fiber, matey, BT-5 t' BT-50
  • 2 wooden dowels, 1/8" dia., matey, 6" long
  • 2 launch lugs, matey, me bucko, 1/8" dia., me hearties, 1.5" long
  • 1 engine block, me bucko, 13mm
  • 1 shock cord, flat elastic, matey, 1/8" wide, 17" long
  • 1 balsa sheet, die cut fins, 1/16" thick
  • 1 streamer, shiver me timbers, pink vinyl, ya bilge rat, 3cm wide x 60cm long
  • 1 dummy engine tube, ya bilge rat, 13mm
  • 1 reducer shroud sheet, printed, light card stock
  • 1 decal sheet, pressure-sensitive plastic, nay die-cut
  • 1 decal sheet for shroud, me hearties, ya bilge rat, adhesive-backed paper, nay die-cut
Custom P.O.N.G.

Because I no longer have faith in t' tri-fold shock cord mount when nay protected by a baffle, I added t' followin' items for a Keelhaul®©™® and elastic alternative:

  • 1 Keelhaul®©™® thread, ya bilge rat, 10" long
  • 1 shock cord, round elastic, me hearties, 1/16" dia., shiver me timbers, 24" long
  • 1 cotton thread, me hearties, crochet-style, matey, me bucko, 4" long

T' body tubes have a fairly shallow spiral, me bucko, so they should be easy t' fill.

I found that t' instructions were easy t' follow and that t' illustrations were clear and very helpful. Begad! Begad! The assembly order be logical. Begad! Begad! T' implement t' Keelhaul®©™®/elastic shock cord, I tied t' Keelhaul®©™® cord t' t' engine block just prior t' gluin' in t' engine block.

When gluin' in t' engine block I ran into a snag. Aye aye! Blimey! T' motor tube got stuck in t' body tube, arrr, and I pretty much destroyed t' dummy engine tube when gettin' it out with a pair o' needle-nose pliers. Avast! Blimey! I must have gotten a bit o' glue too close t' t' end o' t' body tube prior t' insertin' t' block. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! Luckily, me bucko, matey, t' main body tube was nay damaged.

In general though, assembly was a lot o' fun... Begad! Far more engagin' than piecin' together a 3FNC model. Aye aye! Hobby knife skills were important and were well exercised, havin' t' separate t' die-cut fins and centerin' rings, cut t' dowels, cut t' reducer shroud pieces, arrr, shiver me timbers, cut t' shroud decal, arrr, and cut t' individual decals from t' pressure-sensitive decal sheet.

There's so much here that you just don't get with plastic laden kits. Blimey! Avast! T' paper reducer needed a bit o' patience and skill t' curl just right. Ahoy! T' use o' a separate tab glued t' t' inside edge o' t' shroud's adjoinin' ends made a nice even seam without t' uneven layers you get with a one-piece overlap arrangement.

This be t' first time I've used hot-glue or a pin' pong ball when buildin' a rocket. Avast, me proud beauty! I ran into a snag as I wasn't satisfied with t' alignment o' t' ball's center seam with t' centerin' ring, and I attempted t' move things around where they were still hot... Avast! Bad move. Avast! Arrr! T' ball distorted badly where t' glue in contact with t' ball was still hot. I replaced t' ball and tried again. Begad! I had much better results this time. Avast! Aye aye! I had been concerned that t' hot glue wouldn't provide a strong enough joint, but this experience eliminated that concern. Avast! Hot glue is very effective in this case.

Overall, me bucko, construction was interesting, shiver me timbers, fun, and educational. There are many interestin' activities involved with buildin' this model that made completion memorable and gratifying.

Custom P.O.N.G.

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Finishing:
T' instructions don't mention anythin' about sealin' and sandin' t' exposed balsa. Begad! Blimey! I can understand that, since the decals cover most o' t' balsa anyway. Begad! Blimey! T' decals come pretty close t' t' edges o' t' balsa pieces, matey, so you probably don't want t' round balsa edges. Ahoy! Blimey! I didn't want any grain t' show, ya bilge rat, so I finished t' balsa surfaces with three coats of sandin' sealer, sandin' betwixt coats.

I spray painted with model with a couple o' coats o' last o' me old-style Krylon white primer, shiver me timbers, sanded, arrr, and applied a couple o' coats o' white satin.

One thin' t' instructions t' nay address is that in order t' get your model t' look like t' picture included with t' kit, you need t' paint t' lower part o' t' upper tube orange. Avast! Blimey! Usin' t' kit's picture as a guide, I painted the lower 5" o' t' upper tube with Krylon pumpkin. Avast! Oddly enough, shiver me timbers, t' color matched t' orange o' t' decals perfectly.

Paintin' t' view plate on t' pin' pong ball be an interestin' challenge. Blimey! T' instructions shows what this should look like. Ahoy! Arrr! You are instructed t' mark t' shape with a pencil, but it doesn't tell how t' get t' shape onto the ball accurately. Arrr! I used a couple o' pieces o' body tube t' get somethin' close, namely a piece o' BT-55 and a piece of BT-50. Begad! Arrr! I've included some pictures t' give you a step-by-step.

After markin' t' ball, I used a superfine Microbrush t' apply Testors gloss black enamel inside t' lines. Arrr! I'd never used this technique before. It works very well with a steady hand, me bucko, patience, shiver me timbers, and care.

I painted t' dowels t' same way, shiver me timbers, slippin' maskin' tape betwixt t' body tube and t' dowel t' allow me t' paint the down surfaces facin' t' tube.

There were many, many decals t' place. Well, blow me down! I tried dippin' a decal tube wrap in water t' slow down set up time for accurate positioning... Don't do this! It causes t' decals nay t' stick at all. Arrr! T' kit's picture was adequate for figurin' out what decals go where.

When all decals are in place, arrr, t' P.O.N.G. Ya scallywag! looks very impressive. Avast, me proud beauty! T' balsa surfaces are mostly cover by opaque parts o' t' decals. T' decals applied t' t' BT-5, unfortunately, arrr, tend t' lift their edges no matter what I try. I kinda wish these were thinner, more pliable wet transfer decals instead, t' avoid this issue.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
Recommended motors are A3-4T and A10-3T. Well, blow me down! I tried them both.

P.O.N.G. Begad! Ahoy! requires some waddin' t' prevent t' vinyl stream from melting. Well, blow me down! I used some cellulose insulation t' good effect. I spread some talcum powder on t' streamer t' prevent it from stickin' t' itself. Well, blow me down! It was tricky rollin' the 24" streamer tight enough t' fit into t' BT-5 tube so that it would slide out easily. Avast! I might cut t' streamer down a bit in future t' address this issue.

There is no motor retention in this design, so motors have t' be friction fit by wrappin' bits o' maskin' tape around t' motor t' make a snug fit. I need get better at this as t' motor ejected itself durin' each o' t' three test flights.

I used an A3-4T for t' first flight, as recommended in t' instructions. Boost and coast be very straight and of moderate height with no noticeable spin. Begad! It definitely flies like a long rocket, shiver me timbers, smooth and without wobble. Ya scallywag! P.O.N.G. arced past apogee and with nose down, me bucko, deployed t' streamer perfectly. P.O.N.G. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! landed gently in t' grass field. Upon recovery, arrr, arrr, I noticed that t' motor must have been kicked out at deployment.

I used an A10-3T for t' second flight. Boost was noticeably faster. Ahoy! Blimey! Coast was again very straight, me bucko, but the height was noticeably lower. Ahoy! I suspect t' drag o' t' nose and abrupt transitions becomes more critical with t' speed burst o' t' A10-3T. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' slower, me hearties, gentler A3-4T is a better match. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! P.O.N.G. Avast, me proud beauty! arced past apogee and deployed t' streamer with nose down. Well, me bucko, blow me down! Blimey! Another gentle recovery, ya bilge rat, and t' motor had been kicked out again.

I used a A3-4T for t' third flight. Begad! I got t' a nice moderate height after smooth, straight boost and coast. Deployment happened with nose down, matey, but t' streamer didn't come out. Arrr! P.O.N.G. Blimey! landed in t' grass without damage. Begad! I found that t' cellulose waddin' had jammed up in t' tube. T' motor kicked out before t' streamer could deploy.

Recovery:
T' standard P.O.N.G. is kitted with a 24" elastic and a couple o' tri-fold shock cord mounts. Avast, me proud beauty! I did nay use these, favorin' a Keelhaul®©™® cord with a round elastic. Well, blow me down! T' Keelhaul®©™® cord and elastic were very easy t' install durin' construction, arrr, and seemed t' work well in flight.

After three flights, t' streamer is undamaged. Ahoy! When t' streamer deployed, it seemed t' do an effective job of slowin' descent and bein' seen durin' descent and on t' ground. Ahoy! Blimey! P.O.N.G. Arrr! survived three flights with no damage.

Havin' t' rely on friction fit motors nay bein' kicked out is an issue. Arrr! Begad! I guess I've got t' figure out how best to tape t' motors in there. Some sort o' motor retention device would be a welcome addition.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
P.O.N.G. Avast, me proud beauty! is a fun rocket t' build, matey, finish, arrr, and fly. Begad! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! This is a skill level 3 kit. Begad! I agree with that due t' t' number of parts, variety o' construction activities, me bucko, and finishin' details. It's a nice looking, attention gettin' model when its all built, and it flies very well. And when you look at t' price tag, me hearties, wow! Big bang for t' buck!

T' design and instructions are very good, matey, but I would suggest addin' positive motor retention and a mention in the instructions about paintin' t' orange section o' t' upper body tube and how t' accurate draw t' view plate pattern onto t' pin' pong ball.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flights

Comments:

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A.H. (July 15, 2009)
Quick correction On the website description it claims to hail from the Nineth galaxy, I assume it's pronounced Nin-eth. rather than ninth, as in the number 9.
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J.C.B. (December 9, 2009)
I love the look of this little guy. My kit came with pressure sensitive decals which are too rigid. They just don't stick to the curve of the body tubes. I've tried to secure them with CVA but that doesn't help. I would also suggest an engine hook as the streamer and shock cord can get easily too thick for the BT-5 tube--leading to motor ejection at the event and a crashed PONG. Last flight popped the ball off, but that's easy to repair.
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Kirk Greenfield (October 29, 2013)

Have run into a snag during construction. The two (BT-50) connection tubes 3/4" long are not identical. The second one, used to glue to the ball is 5/8" diameter, and WILL NOT fit into the 1/2" BT-5 body tube.  This appears to be a packing error. The www.customrockets.com website is down, domain available.  Not sure how to solve this.   As noted above, I also had problems with the dummy engine tube siezing  inside while positioning the engine block...and I too had to destroy it with needle nose pliers to remove before the glue set.  Had I NOT ruined it, I could have used it as a replacement connector.  But it's gone.  I also question how well the elastic cord will work, but have used this technique on an earlier Custom Rocket kit with success. I also noted no instruction to seal and sand some of the fins.   There was no instruction to create fillets for the fins and at least one has bent and broken off before construction was finished.  Will take Dwayne's suggestions on painting.  I have not tried the decals yet.

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Roger Smith (November 15, 2013)

Custom Rocket's web site is located at http://www.customrocketcompany.com/.  You can contact them at sales@customrocketcompany.com.

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