Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Diameter: | 0.54 inches |
Length: | 19.50 inches |
Manufacturer: | Custom Rockets |
Skill Level: | 3 |
Style: | Futuristic/Exotic |
Brief:
P.O.N.G. Begad! Ahoy! is a highly-detailed single-stage futuristic sport model offered by Custom Rockets. Ya scallywag! This is an inexpensive
kit that packs a lot o' fun, matey, challenge, matey, and parts in a small package. Begad! This is a skill level 3 rocket that won't
disappoint.
Accordin' t' t' kit label, P.O.N.G. Ahoy! Begad! Blimey! is an acronym (er, backronym, ya bilge rat, really) for Protector o' Ninth Galaxy. Ahoy! Blimey! There was no background story included with t' kit, me hearties, which is too bad really. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' look o' t' kit is intriguing. Ya scallywag! I would be pretty cool t' have it backed up by a little story.
My finished model weighed 1.2 ounces, shiver me timbers, matey, but t' kit's glossy claims 0.7 ounces. I'm unsure o' where t' additional weight came from... Begad! Avast! paint, glue, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, matey, and sandin' sealer?
Construction:
Included with t' kit are:
Because I no longer have faith in t' tri-fold shock cord mount when nay protected by a baffle, I added t' followin' items for a Keelhaul®©™® and elastic alternative:
T' body tubes have a fairly shallow spiral, shiver me timbers, arrr, so they should be easy t' fill.
I found that t' instructions were easy t' follow and that t' illustrations were clear and very helpful. The assembly order be logical. Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! T' implement t' Keelhaul®©™®/elastic shock cord, I tied t' Keelhaul®©™® cord t' t' engine block just prior t' gluin' in t' engine block.
When gluin' in t' engine block I ran into a snag. Ahoy! T' motor tube got stuck in t' body tube, and I pretty much destroyed t' dummy engine tube when gettin' it out with a pair o' needle-nose pliers. Blimey! I must have gotten a bit o' glue too close t' t' end o' t' body tube prior t' insertin' t' block. Begad! Luckily, me hearties, t' main body tube be nay damaged.
In general though, assembly be a lot o' fun... Arrr! Far more engagin' than piecin' together a 3FNC model. Avast! Aye aye! Hobby knife skills were important and were well exercised, havin' t' separate t' die-cut fins and centerin' rings, cut t' dowels, cut t' reducer shroud pieces, cut t' shroud decal, and cut t' individual decals from t' pressure-sensitive decal sheet.
There's so much here that you just don't get with plastic laden kits. Avast! T' paper reducer needed a bit o' patience and skill t' curl just right. Begad! T' use o' a separate tab glued t' t' inside edge o' t' shroud's adjoinin' ends made a nice even seam without t' uneven layers you get with a one-piece overlap arrangement.
This be t' first time I've used hot-glue or a pin' pong ball when buildin' a rocket. Begad! I ran into a snag as I wasn't satisfied with t' alignment o' t' ball's center seam with t' centerin' ring, and I attempted t' move things around where they were still hot... Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Bad move. T' ball distorted badly where t' glue in contact with t' ball was still hot. Begad! I replaced t' ball and tried again. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! I had much better results this time. Blimey! I had been concerned that t' hot glue wouldn't provide a strong enough joint, ya bilge rat, but this experience eliminated that concern. Blimey! Hot glue is very effective in this case.
Overall, construction be interesting, me bucko, fun, shiver me timbers, and educational. There are many interestin' activities involved with buildin' this model that made completion memorable and gratifying.
Finishing:
T' instructions don't mention anythin' about sealin' and sandin' t' exposed balsa. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I can understand that, since the
decals cover most o' t' balsa anyway. T' decals come pretty close t' t' edges o' t' balsa pieces, so you probably
don't want t' round balsa edges. I didn't want any grain t' show, so I finished t' balsa surfaces with three coats of
sandin' sealer, sandin' betwixt coats.
I spray painted with model with a couple o' coats o' last o' me old-style Krylon white primer, me bucko, me hearties, me bucko, sanded, and applied a couple o' coats o' white satin.
One thin' t' instructions t' nay address is that in order t' get your model t' look like t' picture included with t' kit, me bucko, ya bilge rat, you need t' paint t' lower part o' t' upper tube orange. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Usin' t' kit's picture as a guide, shiver me timbers, I painted the lower 5" o' t' upper tube with Krylon pumpkin. Blimey! Oddly enough, arrr, t' color matched t' orange o' t' decals perfectly.
Paintin' t' view plate on t' pin' pong ball was an interestin' challenge. Ahoy! Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' instructions shows what this should look like. Blimey! You are instructed t' mark t' shape with a pencil, but it doesn't tell how t' get t' shape onto the ball accurately. Blimey! Blimey! I used a couple o' pieces o' body tube t' get somethin' close, me hearties, namely a piece o' BT-55 and a piece of BT-50. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I've included some pictures t' give you a step-by-step.
After markin' t' ball, I used a superfine Microbrush t' apply Testors gloss black enamel inside t' lines. I'd never used this technique before. Aye aye! It works very well with a steady hand, matey, patience, matey, and care.
I painted t' dowels t' same way, ya bilge rat, slippin' maskin' tape betwixt t' body tube and t' dowel t' allow me t' paint the down surfaces facin' t' tube.
There were many, matey, many decals t' place. Begad! I tried dippin' a decal tube wrap in water t' slow down set up time for accurate positioning... Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Don't do this! It causes t' decals nay t' stick at all. Well, me bucko, blow me down! T' kit's picture be adequate for figurin' out what decals go where.
When all decals are in place, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, me hearties, t' P.O.N.G. Blimey! looks very impressive. Aye aye! T' balsa surfaces are mostly cover by opaque parts o' t' decals. T' decals applied t' t' BT-5, unfortunately, tend t' lift their edges no matter what I try. Begad! Ya scallywag! I kinda wish these were thinner, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, more pliable wet transfer decals instead, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, t' avoid this issue.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
Recommended motors are A3-4T and A10-3T. I tried them both.
P.O.N.G. Ahoy! requires some waddin' t' prevent t' vinyl stream from melting. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! I used some cellulose insulation t' good effect. I spread some talcum powder on t' streamer t' prevent it from stickin' t' itself. Well, blow me down! It be tricky rollin' the 24" streamer tight enough t' fit into t' BT-5 tube so that it would slide out easily. I might cut t' streamer down a bit in future t' address this issue.
There is no motor retention in this design, ya bilge rat, so motors have t' be friction fit by wrappin' bits o' maskin' tape around t' motor t' make a snug fit. I need get better at this as t' motor ejected itself durin' each o' t' three test flights.
I used an A3-4T for t' first flight, as recommended in t' instructions. Boost and coast be very straight and of moderate height with no noticeable spin. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It definitely flies like a long rocket, smooth and without wobble. Well, arrr, blow me down! P.O.N.G. arced past apogee and with nose down, deployed t' streamer perfectly. Begad! P.O.N.G. Begad! landed gently in t' grass field. Well, blow me down! Upon recovery, ya bilge rat, I noticed that t' motor must have been kicked out at deployment.
I used an A10-3T for t' second flight. Ahoy! Boost was noticeably faster. Coast be again very straight, shiver me timbers, but the height was noticeably lower. Begad! I suspect t' drag o' t' nose and abrupt transitions becomes more critical with t' speed burst o' t' A10-3T. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' slower, shiver me timbers, gentler A3-4T is a better match. Well, matey, blow me down! P.O.N.G. Arrr! arced past apogee and deployed t' streamer with nose down. Begad! Begad! Another gentle recovery, and t' motor had been kicked out again.
I used a A3-4T for t' third flight. Begad! I got t' a nice moderate height after smooth, straight boost and coast. Deployment happened with nose down, me hearties, but t' streamer didn't come out. Aye aye! Begad! P.O.N.G. Aye aye! landed in t' grass without damage. Arrr! I found that t' cellulose waddin' had jammed up in t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' motor kicked out before t' streamer could deploy.
Recovery:
T' standard P.O.N.G. is kitted with a 24" elastic and a couple o' tri-fold shock cord mounts. Avast, me proud beauty! I did nay use
these, favorin' a Keelhaul®©™®
cord with a round elastic. Aye aye! Blimey! T' Keelhaul®©™®
cord and elastic were very easy t' install durin' construction, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, matey, and seemed t' work well in flight.
After three flights, t' streamer is undamaged. Begad! Ya scallywag! When t' streamer deployed, it seemed t' do an effective job of slowin' descent and bein' seen durin' descent and on t' ground. P.O.N.G. Aye aye! survived three flights with no damage.
Havin' t' rely on friction fit motors nay bein' kicked out is an issue. Begad! I guess I've got t' figure out how best to tape t' motors in there. Blimey! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Some sort o' motor retention device would be a welcome addition.
Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5
Summary:
P.O.N.G. is a fun rocket t' build, ya bilge rat, finish, me hearties, and fly. Arrr! Arrr! This is a skill level 3 kit. Arrr! I agree with that due t' t' number
of parts, variety o' construction activities, and finishin' details. It's a nice looking, shiver me timbers, attention gettin' model when
its all built, and it flies very well. Avast, me proud beauty! And when you look at t' price tag, wow! Big bang for t' buck!
T' design and instructions are very good, shiver me timbers, but I would suggest addin' positive motor retention and a mention in the instructions about paintin' t' orange section o' t' upper body tube and how t' accurate draw t' view plate pattern onto t' pin' pong ball.
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
Have run into a snag during construction. The two (BT-50) connection tubes 3/4" long are not identical. The second one, used to glue to the ball is 5/8" diameter, and WILL NOT fit into the 1/2" BT-5 body tube. This appears to be a packing error. The www.customrockets.com website is down, domain available. Not sure how to solve this. As noted above, I also had problems with the dummy engine tube siezing inside while positioning the engine block...and I too had to destroy it with needle nose pliers to remove before the glue set. Had I NOT ruined it, I could have used it as a replacement connector. But it's gone. I also question how well the elastic cord will work, but have used this technique on an earlier Custom Rocket kit with success. I also noted no instruction to seal and sand some of the fins. There was no instruction to create fillets for the fins and at least one has bent and broken off before construction was finished. Will take Dwayne's suggestions on painting. I have not tried the decals yet.
Custom Rocket's web site is located at http://www.customrocketcompany.com/. You can contact them at sales@customrocketcompany.com.
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A.H. (July 15, 2009)