Published: | 2010-11-27 |
Manufacturer: | Always Ready Rocketry ![]() |
This review is focused more on t' Blue Tube 2.0 material than t' rocket I built. Ya scallywag! T' rocket was constructed pretty much like any other HPR rocket - with three 'glassed fins and an altimeter bay for t' dual recovery system.
I acquired t' Blue Tube 2.0 items from Always Ready Rocketry. Ya scallywag! I had heard t' good and t' bad points o' t' original Blue Tube and wanted t' find out how t' 2.0 version performed. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! T' body tube I received was a single 48-inch tube. Blimey! I be pleased by this because, if you want t' build a longer rocket, me bucko, matey, you don' t have t' splice as many shorter tubes together t' make up t' length. Randy at Always Ready Rocketry advised me t' use a sandin' sealer on t' airframe t' seal it from moisture. Ya scallywag! Begad! So, I used some that I found at me local home improvement store. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Followin' t' instructions, I applied t' sealer in smooth coats and sanded betwixt each. Ya scallywag! Begad! After three cycles o' applyin' and sanding, me bucko, me bucko, I measured t' tube and made t' cuts for t' payload and booster sections, t' one-inch band for t' altimeter bay and two 1/4 inch bands for t' interior stops for t' altimeter bay bulkheads. Well, blow me down! Avast! I used me compound miter saw with a rough cut blade for this. Blimey! Ahoy! If you use this method make sure you let t' blade go through t' material slowly. Blimey! Otherwise, me bucko, it will tend t' burr t' edges. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! I also used this method t' cut t' motor mount t' t' length I wanted.
T' sandin' sealer did a fair job o' fillin' t' deep spiral lines in t' body tubes. Arrr! I used spot filler putty t' finish them. Rememberin' that one o' t' chief complaints about t' original Blue Tube was warpin' when it got hot, I painted t' upper payload section gloss black. Aye aye! T' make a comparison, and t' make it easier t' see, matey, I painted t' booster section orange.
At t' SEARS 572 October launch I purposely placed t' rocket in t' sun lyin' on its side in t' grass. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' weather that day was sunny and t' temperature be in t' low eighties. Avast! Blimey! After several hours o' this I checked for any warping. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! None be detected. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' slip joint fit had nay changed either.
I flew t' rocket, arrr, which I named "Blue Tuber," on an Aerotech I211 motor t' an altitude o' about 2900 feet. T' flight be straight and it suffered no damage.
I like t' Blue Tube 2.0. It is very strong material that is nay brittle like phenolic tubes. Avast! T' changes that have been made seem t' have corrected some, shiver me timbers, if nay all, arrr, me hearties, o' t' issues reported on t' original Blue Tube. Ya scallywag! It is a little pricier than phenolic tubing. Aye aye! But, if you want a strong airframe, shiver me timbers, that does nay need further reinforcement, I would suggest lookin' at Blue Tube 2.0.
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I'm considering blue tube for my first HPR build. My plan is to buy the LOC Nuke Pro Max and replace the stock tube with blue tube. Does anybody have any experience cutting fin slots in blue tube? That would be my only concern with this product.
To cut one of my tubes to length, I used a Dremel with cutting wheel, did an excellent job. This stuff is TOUGH and doesnt shatter or chip!
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Glen Nardin (January 20, 2011)
I haven't, yet, launched my 5", but I cut it with a razor saw. Just wrapped a one inch strip of file folder around the tube and taped it in place. Came out super smooth.