Always Ready Rocketry Blue Tube 2.0

Always Ready Rocketry - Blue Tube 2.0 {Component}

Contributed by Cliff Oliver

Published: 2010-11-27
Manufacturer: Always Ready Rocketry

This review is focused more on t' Blue Tube 2.0 material than t' rocket I built. Aye aye! T' rocket was constructed pretty much like any other HPR rocket - with three 'glassed fins and an altimeter bay for t' dual recovery system.

I acquired t' Blue Tube 2.0 items from Always Ready Rocketry. Blimey! Blimey! I had heard t' good and t' bad points o' t' original Blue Tube and wanted t' find out how t' 2.0 version performed. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' body tube I received was a single 48-inch tube. Arrr! Blimey! I was pleased by this because, arrr, if you want t' build a longer rocket, arrr, you don' t have t' splice as many shorter tubes together t' make up t' length. Randy at Always Ready Rocketry advised me t' use a sandin' sealer on t' airframe t' seal it from moisture. So, shiver me timbers, arrr, I used some that I found at me local home improvement store. Aye aye! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Followin' t' instructions, me bucko, me hearties, I applied t' sealer in smooth coats and sanded betwixt each. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! After three cycles o' applyin' and sanding, I measured t' tube and made t' cuts for t' payload and booster sections, t' one-inch band for t' altimeter bay and two 1/4 inch bands for t' interior stops for t' altimeter bay bulkheads. I used me compound miter saw with a rough cut blade for this. Well, blow me down! Blimey! If you use this method make sure you let t' blade go through t' material slowly. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Otherwise, it will tend t' burr t' edges. Ahoy! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I also used this method t' cut t' motor mount t' t' length I wanted.

T' sandin' sealer did a fair job o' fillin' t' deep spiral lines in t' body tubes. Arrr! Aye aye! I used spot filler putty t' finish them. Begad! Rememberin' that one o' t' chief complaints about t' original Blue Tube be warpin' when it got hot, I painted t' upper payload section gloss black. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! T' make a comparison, shiver me timbers, matey, matey, and t' make it easier t' see, arrr, I painted t' booster section orange.

At t' SEARS 572 October launch I purposely placed t' rocket in t' sun lyin' on its side in t' grass. Aye aye! Blimey! T' weather that day was sunny and t' temperature was in t' low eighties. After several hours o' this I checked for any warping. None be detected. Avast! T' slip joint fit had nay changed either.

I flew t' rocket, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, which I named "Blue Tuber," on an Aerotech I211 motor t' an altitude o' about 2900 feet. Avast! T' flight be straight and it suffered no damage.

I like t' Blue Tube 2.0. Avast! It is very strong material that is nay brittle like phenolic tubes. T' changes that have been made seem t' have corrected some, if nay all, o' t' issues reported on t' original Blue Tube. Avast! It is a little pricier than phenolic tubing. Avast! Avast! But, if you want a strong airframe, shiver me timbers, that does nay need further reinforcement, me bucko, shiver me timbers, I would suggest lookin' at Blue Tube 2.0.

Comments:

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Glen Nardin (January 20, 2011)

I haven't, yet, launched my 5", but I cut it with a razor saw.  Just wrapped a one inch strip of file folder around the tube and taped it in place.  Came out super smooth.

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Wayne Comfort (March 25, 2011)

I'm considering blue tube for my first HPR build. My plan is to buy the LOC Nuke Pro Max and replace the stock tube with blue tube. Does anybody have any experience cutting fin slots in blue tube? That would be my only concern with this product.

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Rob Appleton (June 26, 2012)

To cut one of my tubes to length, I used a Dremel with cutting wheel, did an excellent job.  This stuff is TOUGH and doesnt shatter or chip!

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