Constructin' t' THOY Phoenix

This is a high power rocket kit originally developed by Tiffany Hobbies O' Ypsilanti (Michigan?), and now produced by Rocket R&D. Begad! T' suggested motors run from G t' H, me bucko, me hearties, but unless you build very light, G’s might work only on absolu

tely calm days. Aye aye! I won this kit in an online raffle sponsored by Magnum Hobbies almost three years ago, me hearties, but waited until this winter t' build it.

Components

T' included parts are o' very high quality. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' 4" body tube is thick-walled kraft paper, me bucko, matey, with marks showin' where t' fin slots and launch lug need t' go. Avast! You must cut t' slots yourself. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' fins (8) and centerin' rings (2) are beautiful, made o' 1/8" plywood and cut perfectly. T' fins are through t' wall, me hearties, and t' tabs go all t' way t' t' motor mount. Well, blow me down! Begad! T' top centerin' rin' comes with a braided steel shock cord anchor pre-mounted, matey, and needs only a spot o' epoxy t' finish it off. T' nose cone is from ACE, and interestingly enough has a screw cap located on t' bottom instead o' t' customary plastic loop. Begad! Ahoy! T' motor mount tube is 38mm. Ahoy! Completin' t' kit is a ½" launch lug , matey, ya bilge rat, a nine foot length o' nylon webbin' (1" wide) shock cord, me hearties, a 36" nylon parachute, me hearties, a page o' self-adhesive decals for military style detailing, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, clay for nose weight, along with two pages o' instructions, matey, ya bilge rat, one o' which is a general guide t' paintin' and decal placement. Well, blow me down! T' instructions are basic but complete, arrr, me hearties, me hearties, and include some decent diagrams for assembly steps. Avast! It is assumed that you have some buildin' experience. Blimey! Apparently, matey, at some point a different nose cone be supplied, matey, shiver me timbers, because t' instructions call for tyin' t' shock cord t' t' plastic loop on t' nosecone, which, shiver me timbers, as noted above, shiver me timbers, doesn't exist. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! T' decals were t' weakest part o' t' kit. Aye aye! I don't much like self-adhesive decals anyway, arrr, arrr, but these were among t' worst I've seen. T' printin' be smudged in several places and peelin' in others (age may have been a problem). Arrr! T' finished product is acceptable from 6 feet away, matey, which is good enough for me, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, but t' decals really disappoint close up. Begad! Begad! A little effort t' re-create your own water slide decals t' match, or t' have them cu

stom made is an option t' consider.

Construction

For t' most part, shiver me timbers, me hearties, construction was straightforward. T' fin slots were cut usin' a new x-acto blade and a straightedge. Ya scallywag! Take your time and don't try t' cut all t' way through at once and you'll be done before you know it.

T' instructions give measurements t' sand t' fins t' their true scale shape, but after slightly goofin' up t' first fin, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, I just rounded them all off. Arrr! Elmers Fill ‘n’ Finish be used t' seal and fill t' grain on t' fins and t' fill t' body tube spirals.

To me, t' biggest worry about any Phoenix model are those aft fins. They just look like a pop off waitin' t' happen. Ahoy! T' further strengthen this area, me hearties, I added a third centerin' rin' t' sandwich t' tabs o' t' lower fins. This extra rin' be made o' two thicknesses o' balsa, glued together with t' grains runnin' perpendicular, me bucko, me hearties, shiver me timbers, and then thin CA was soaked into t' wood. Blimey! Very light and strong.

One trick I've found w

henever workin' with fin tabs that go all t' way t' t' motor tube is t' trim a small bit o' t' corner where it's goin' t' meet a centerin' ring. Blimey! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! This way there’s room for any glue fillet that might already be present. Begad! Blimey! See t' illustration for what I mean.

T' instructions are very clear, and make assemblin' t' motor mount and fins a two-step process, arrr, me hearties, me bucko, first t' motor mount, then t' fins. Ya scallywag! I'll describe here how I did it, which be t' combine t' steps into one. Ya scallywag! T' reason I did it me way was t' strengthen t' bottom fin section usin' that extra centerin' ring.

Before doin' this, matey, drill two small holes in t' balsa rin' and thread some strin' through them. Aye aye! These are your handles, me hearties, and you'll see what they're for in a minute.

First thin' is t' glue t' front centerin' rin' into place on t' motor tube as indicated in t' instructions. When dry, matey, I slipped t' balsa rin' over t' back end o' t' motor tube without gluin' it, just t' center t' motor tube correctly. Then I set t' rocket upright and drizzled more glue around t' joint where t' top centerin' rin' meets t' body tube. Tilt t' tube slightly t' make sure t' entire edge o' t' rin' is glued t' t' tube wall.

Once dry, ya bilge rat, I turned t' rocket over again and, usin' those strin' handles, removed t' bottom centerin' ring. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! Now I glued t' forward set o' fins into place, makin' sure that they were aligned correctly. Fillet well on t' inside where t' tab comes through t' slot and at t' motor tube joint.

At this point, I had t' straighten t' forward fins, me hearties, because two o' them had developed a slight bow from leadin' t' trailin' edge. Ahoy! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' way I did this be t' clamp a straight steel bar along t' length o' t' fin, which forced it straight. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Next came punchin' small holes into t' body tube along t' fin root, ya bilge rat, which allows t' epoxy t' flow into them and create ‘rivets’ as it cures. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' final step was layin' a good fillet o' epoxy along t' fin root. Ahoy! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' glue held t' entire fin root straight, me bucko, which removed t' warp from t' plywood. Arrr! Blimey! Each side o' each fin be done t' same way.

Time for t' second centerin' rin' (the one made from balsa) and bottom fins. Avast! Place t' centerin' rin' on t' tube, shiver me timbers, and let it slide down past t' bottom fin tab slots. Next, insert t' bottom fins through t' slots, me bucko, mix up a small batch o' 5 minute epoxy, ya bilge rat, matey, and use t' strin' t' pull t' centerin' rin' up tight against t' bottom fin tabs. Begad! Add small dabs o' epoxy betwixt t' fin tabs along t' body tube wall and motor tube, me hearties, so that once t' epoxy cures t' rin' is in place. T' fins are still nay glued into place, just t' balsa centerin' ring, which acts as a ‘floor’ for t' lower fin tabs (see t' picture).

T' bottom fins must be aligned with t' top fins before gluin' them into place. Aye aye! I used a straight wooden yardstick clamped along t' length o' t' upper fin, then clamped in turn t' t' bottom fin t' get t' alignment needed. Blimey! Blimey! This lined up t' fin roots, but t' ensure that t' two fins both were at t' same angle t' t' tube, I used an Estes 2-piece rod, ya bilge rat, and clamped one half on each side o' t' fins, me hearties, runnin' with t' leadin' edge (see t' picture). Begad! Then I glued t' fin and fin tab into position. Fillet everythin' well, me bucko, ya bilge rat, inside and out. Let it dry, then do t' next fin. When you're done, arrr, shiver me timbers, you'll have a rock solid assembly for t' bottom fins, and they'll be perfectly aligned.

Once dry, I fastened t' bottommost centerin' rin' into place, shiver me timbers, and filleted it well. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! Instead o' centerin' t' launch lugs betwixt t' fins as called for in t' instructions, shiver me timbers, I offset th

em slightly closer t' one side, me bucko, so that I could install rail buttons as well.

On t' t' nosecone. Arrr! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! After lightly sandin' t' remove t' mold seam, as well as t' provide some ‘tooth’ for t' finish t' hold on to, me bucko, I packed t' supplied clay into t' nosecone. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Usin' a dowel as a ramrod, t' clay be pushed as far as possible towards t' tip. Blimey! Blimey! Next I drilled several 1/16" holes through t' nosecone at t' level o' t' clay. Coverin' these holes with maskin' tape, I then poured a batch o' 15 minute epoxy into t' nosecone, me bucko, on top o' t' clay. Begad! Blimey! Once again, shiver me timbers, t' epoxy ran into t' holes, arrr, ya bilge rat, creatin' rivets as it cured and ensurin' that t' clay would stay right at t' top o' t' nose. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Once cured, t' maskin' tape be removed, and t' holes and rivets were sanded smooth.

Finishin'

I covered t' entire rocket with 3 coats o' ruddy brown automotive primer, matey, lightly sandin' betwixt coats. Arrr! Blimey! This primer has a high solids content, me hearties, and filled t' last o' t' spiral grooves and wood grain. Begad! Read t' can though! T' brown primer that I used was leftover from some auto bodywork I did a while back, and had a dryin' time o' 5 days, ya bilge rat, which I've never heard o' before for any other primer (and didn't think about until after I'd already sprayed t' first coat). Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! T' body o' t' Phoenix is pale dove gray, shiver me timbers, so – 5 days later – I next sprayed t' body with 2 coats o' Krylon white primer, matey, shiver me timbers, sandin' betwixt coats. I was worried that t' gray would have a hard time coverin' t' brown primer, arrr, so I chose t' white t' lighten t' final coat color even more. T' nosecone is white, me hearties, so I used Krylon gray primer there, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, mainly so I could tell when I had good coverage on t' final color coat. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Sprayin' white paint on white primer is tough. Ya scallywag! I set t' whole thin' aside t' dry for a week.

Final Details

T' markings guide provided in t' instructions is pretty general, and since this is just ‘scale like’, matey, I didn't feel real obligated t' follow it t

o t' letter. I opted t' simplify t' stripin' scheme, mostly t' cut down on t' difficult maskin' needed (probably me least favorite rocket buildin' step). Ahoy! T' silver stripes are mylar tape. T' decals were added more or less where indicated, and t' tip was painted silver usin' a brush and Testors silver model paint from a jar. Once again I set it aside for several days, shiver me timbers, then clear coated everythin' usin' Future floor finish applied with a soft rag.

I didn't use t' supplied nylon webbin' for t' shock cord, preferrin' 20 feet o' 3/8" tubular nylon attached with a quick link. Aye aye! Begad! At t' nosecone end, me hearties, I drilled two holes on either side o' t' screw cap – one on each molded half - and threaded more tubular nylon through both holes as a harness where t' shock cord can be attached with another quick link. Arrr! There would have t' be massive structural failure o' t' entire base o' t' nosecone t' experience a separation failure at that point.

Motor retention clips were formed from strip brass stock, arrr, fastened with cap screws fitted into blind nuts installed in t' aft centerin' ring. A Pratt heat shield was added as wadding.

T' final, full up, everything-but-the-motor weight is 43.5 ounces.

Flight

First flight was at Whitakers, N

orth Carolina on March 25, 2001, arrr, arrr, on an H180W with a medium delay. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! At ignition she punched off t' pad straight up, matey, movin' fast. Avast! Durin' t' coast phase, me bucko, t' fins made a neat whistlin' sound, me hearties, and t' chute ejected just after apogee. Ya scallywag! T' chute brought t' Phoenix down t' a soft landin' less than 100 yards from t' pad.

Post Flight

T' Pratt heat shield did its job perfectly, without so much as a single scorch on t' chute or shroud lines. T' 36" chute is fine for near-calm days, shiver me timbers, but I think that on windier days I'll probably use a 32" or even 30" chute, especially since t' aft fins are reinforced and should be able t' handle a harder landing.

All in all, this is an impressive kit! T' Phoenix is a challenge t' build without bein' overly complex, and t' end result is a great lookin' rocket that attracts attention. Aye aye! Ahoy! There was a lot o' satisfaction for me in completin' this rocket, matey, ya bilge rat, and t' fact that she flies like a dream just made t' whole experience that much better. Avast, me proud beauty! Highly recommended.