Brief:

T' Semroc Space Shuttle is a faithful reproduction o' an old (OOP) Centuri kit that was introduced in 1971. It is a close approximation t' t' original full-scale model. Begad! All fins and rings are precision laser-cut balsa and sturdy fiber. Begad! T' plastic nose cones are replaced with much lighter balsa reproductions.

Construction:

T' instructions are well written and easy t' follow with clear drawings for t' most o' t' 53 steps. Avast, me proud beauty! For a small model this kit can take a lot o' time dependin' on what you want t' do.

All o' t' parts are good quality includin' t' balsa wood. I decided t' coat all t' balsa fins with CA, shiver me timbers, matey, which took time.

A friend had told me that Golden Mediums GAC 100 Multi-Purpose Acrylic Polymer was good for fillin' balsa by spreadin' it on with a stiff piece o' plastic like and old credit card. Ya scallywag! Begad! I tried this material, but I’m nay sure that it helped that much. After paintin' most o' t' balsa grain has disappeared on t' both nose cones and t' orbiter fins, but some grain can be seen on t' booster wings.

I decided t' hollow out t' nose cones, but t' instructions do nay call for this procedure. I later found t' model t' be unstable in flight, arrr, but it is hard t' believe that this amount o' balsa could equal all t' lead weight that I later added. Ahoy! Begad! In order for t' pop-pod t' work correctly t' glider nose cone must be glued in.

Conceivably, matey, matey, t' nose cone on t' booster could be left unglued for booster flight trimming. Avast! I did nay want t' gap t' show, arrr, shiver me timbers, so I glued both nose cones t' their body tubes. Steps 7 through 10 establish t' location o' t' wood dowels on t' booster for attachin' t' orbiter. Arrr! Follow these steps closely. Ahoy!

Especially, matey, follow Step 10, ya bilge rat, which states that t' pieces must be within 1/16” o' t' specified locations. Later, after paintin' I found that I had t' sand and trim some o' theses parts with an X-acto knife t' make them fit properly. Begad! I put a small silver mylar adhesive strip on t' aft motor mount tube under t' engine hook. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! This should be done just before Step 18.

Step 19 turned out t' be t' most difficult for me. I followed t' directions in Step 19 and put a small amount o' wood glue in t' top end o' t' engine tube and proceeded t' slide t' thrust rin' (motor block) down t' t' engine hook. Well, blow me down! Blimey! However, t' glue had soaked into t' body tube and t' thrust rin' actually tipped over in t' process and hung up. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Luckily, I had a long stick available in t' workshop. I put t' stick through t' opposite end o' t' body tube and pushed t' thrust rin' out. Begad! Blimey! Needless t' say, t' next time I repeated this step, I used a wood dowel and placed t' glue down by t' engine hook before I slid t' thrust rin' into place.

Finishing:

This shuttle concept reminds me o' t' Monogram plastic models that Willy Ley, me bucko, ya bilge rat, a German rocket scientist, ya bilge rat, help advertised back in 1958. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' model consisted o' a large winged booster on t' bottom and a winged orbiter vehicle on top.

T' booster had a bright red color. T' Semroc directions show a yellow orbiter on top o' a white booster, which is probably consistent with t' original Centuri configuration. I be taken t' makin' an orange orbiter, arrr, probably from me recollection o' seein' some Bell X-1 models painted orange. I used t' old Rustoleum rust colored primer, which was very difficult t' cover with t' new Krylon gloss pumpkin orange that came out about a year ago.

After 5 coats or more I succeeded in coverin' t' primer with t' Krylon orange. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! T' coverin' power o' t' Krylon be nay good and it had a tendency t' be transparent. Avast! T' booster and orbiter weights from t' instructions are listed t' be 1.5 oz. and 0.5 oz., ya bilge rat, respectively. Avast, me proud beauty! My painted and finished booster and glider weights turned out t' be 2.5 oz. Blimey! Begad! and 0.5 oz., ya bilge rat, respectively. Begad! I did nay use all t' Semroc decals and preferred t' use some different decals that I had in me inventory. Begad!

Flight:

T' first flight with an Estes C6-3 proved t' be unstable and t' Shuttle fishtailed badly without gainin' much altitude. Ya scallywag! T' altitude was only about 50 feet and t' motor pod ejected on t' ground. Only one fin was broken and it be easily reattached with super glue gel.

T' second flight was again with a C6-3, shiver me timbers, matey, shiver me timbers, but this time I epoxied about 0.5 oz o' lead weight behind t' forward bulkhead on t' motor pod. Avast! I bought t' lead weight at a fishin' tackle store. Avast, me proud beauty! It comes in a coil and is referred t' as No. 1 3/16” hollow. Aye aye! This time t' shuttle took off t' about at an altitude o' 20 feet and flew vertical t' t' ground. Blimey! Again, arrr, arrr, t' motor pod ejected on t' ground and one fin broke off and was easily reattached.

For t' third flight with a C6-3 I added about another 1 oz. o' weight. Ahoy! This time I epoxied a wooden dowel as a boom t' inside o' t' motor pod. Since I had hollowed out t' nose cone o' t' orbiter, matey, I had room t' move t' lead weight forward. Well, matey, blow me down! I also noticed that t' orbiter was a little bit loose on top o' t' booster, arrr, so I added some balsa shims that removed t' wobble. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! On this flight t' Shuttle flew straight and had enough altitude about 120 feet t' eject t' motor pod. T' booster did glide for a very short distance before landing, ya bilge rat, but t' orbiter did nay glide very well.
Care needs t' be taken in flyin' away from spectators, me hearties, ya bilge rat, because t' pod does fall fast. Aye aye! Blimey! I am now plannin' t' attach a small 8” square parachute t' t' pod. Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! Also, I am plannin' t' next launch with an Apogee D10-3, me hearties, which be t' same size as t' Estes C6-3.