Scratch Solar Warrior (24mm) Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Solar Warrior (24mm) {Scratch}

Contributed by Jewel B. Butler Jr.

Manufacturer: Scratch
(Contributed - by Jewel Barton Butler Jr. Aye aye! - 02/06/09) (MODS) Estes Warrior

Brief:
This is a single stage rocket with two outer tube-fins attached via pylons.There are two standard fins t' give it a Lear jet like look.I couldn't resist buildin' it. This is one o' Estes better designs. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

Construction:
I decided t' go 24mm. Ahoy! Begad! Most o' t' parts are available through Semroc I started with a one BNC-55AO 5-inch elliptical nose cone, one 18-inch BT-55 body tube (I used a spare piece I had it was 17 inches long), shiver me timbers, matey, two 3-inch long BT-55, arrr, ya bilge rat, two 55-50 centerin' rings, one 4.5-inch BT-50 (no engine block allows you t' use D or E engines), one 1oz round fishing weight, me bucko, one #204 screw eye from Home Depot, 36 inches o' #400 Keelhaul®©™® shock cord, one 12-inch nylon parachute, sheet o' 3/32-inch basswood (from Semroc or Hobby Lobby), and 24 inches o' 1/8 inch nylon cord.

First t' motor mount build. Ahoy! I used Probond wood glue. Then I marked t' body tube for four fins. Avast! Begad! Next, I cut out my upper and lower fins since I was upscalin' I had t' kind o' add a little bit here and thar t' make it look OK. Avast, me proud beauty! I rounded all me leadin' edges. Ahoy! Then I cut me pylons for me tube fins. Blimey! Begad! Basically I just took a 1-inch wide piece of 3/32-inch basswood and cut a angle at both ends t' keep things simple. I attached t' upper and lower fins startin' at the tail end o' t' body tube. I attached t' pylons 2 inches from t' back o' t' body tube. Now it be time t' fix the nose cone and add nose weight. Begad! Begad! I just drilled out t' center o' t' weight for t' screw eye, shiver me timbers, me bucko, me bucko, which is about a 1/4 inch in diameter. Ya scallywag! Avast! Next, I inserted t' screw eye through t' weight, put a little glue on it, shiver me timbers, and screwed into t' nose cone. Avast! I attached t' shock through t' body just above t' motor mount by usin' a X-Acto knife t' bore me a little hole large enough for t' cord then put a knot at t' end with a little glue t' attach nylon cord t' other end t' nose cone. For t' tube fins, I drew a line top t' bottom on both tubes, put a little glue on t' mark and t' pylon, let it set for about 5 or 6 minutes, and then attach t' tubes, let them dry then fillet everything. Aye aye! I coated all me wood area with wood glue for strength followed by a great wood filler, then sanded and painted.

(MODS) Estes Warrior(MODS) Estes Warrior

(MODS) Estes Warrior(MODS) Estes Warrior

(MODS) Estes Warrior(MODS) Estes Warrior

Flight:
I test flew on a C11-3. It was a great flight. Next it flew on a D12-5 then a E9-6. Again, they were both beautiful flights. Also, I used maskin' tape t' secure t' motor on all three flights. It flew very straight.

Summary:
I like this rocket because it was so easy t' build, flies great, and it has a cool look about it.

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