Construction 

An interestin' decision on t' design o' this rocket be t' body tube sizes.  T' main body tube and tube fins are 0.9080 inches.  This is just barely larger than a minimum diameter standard (A,B,C engine) rocket.  Motor mount outside diameter is 0.74 inches which gives you about 1/6” difference in diameter.  Split this in two (for each side), arrr, and this gives you about 1/12” clearance betwixt t' two tubes.  I guess t' reason t' do this be simply so they could add an internally mounted engine hook.    Had they nay done this, arrr, t' rocket would have been minimally smaller and a lot simpler.  But you’d have t' friction fit t' engine.

Settin' up t' motor mount, shiver me timbers, matey, shiver me timbers, again t' mount comes with a single “long” (about 1 inch) centerin' ring. 

Since I am always runnin' out o' centerin' rings, me bucko, I cut this into four individual rings, matey, and used two o' them for this kit (pretty much t' standard “two ring” motor mount.) 

I was glad I did this.  T' instructions don’t tell you t' cut a slot in t' centerin' internal diameter t' accommodate t' engine hook (in fact, I suspect it would be difficult.)  I found that even cuttin' a slot in me two cut rings, it was a REALLY tight fit t' slide t' rings over t' motor mount tube AND t' engine hook.  But it did work.  

T' instructions have a nice markin' guide ruler built in, which really helps.

I DO really like t' shock cord attachment, shiver me timbers, which wraps around t' forward end o' t' engine hook where it pokes through t' motor mount tube. 

A key part o' this kit is cantin' t' tube fins.  Yes, this is a case where you intentionally put t' tube fins on “off center.”  Instructions for this involved markin' a canted or angled strip on each o' t' tube fins, ya bilge rat, then tryin' t' sand this down so t' tube  “will simply collapse in” (a quote from instructions).  Then you mark t' center o' this canted strip, and line it up with a true axis aligned mark on t' fuselage (main body tube).  It was six separate steps for this.  I guess this might work, me hearties, me hearties, but seemed t' me very complicated and easy t' mess up. 

All t' placement areas were o' t' tube fins and main body tube were lightly sanded in advance t' rough them up a bit for better adhesion.

I did it differently. Ahoy! Avast! Blimey! I marked t' canted “strips” on t' tube fins.  I then cut two pieces o' 1/32 inch balsa t' length o' t' fin tubes, me hearties, ya bilge rat, basically each was about 1 mm x 1 mm x 2.5 inches  (the length o' t' tube fin.)  Had I thought ahead I would have made them 2.0 inches as t' tube fins are 2.5” long and they overhang t' tail o' t' fuselage by 0.5”.  I call these Balsa Fillets.  These are easy t' line up and glue onto each edge o' t' strip marks on t' tube fins.  These can then be filleted t' t' tube fins before you attach t' tube fins t' t' main body tube.  This “locks in” t' angle o' attachment.   Once in place, shiver me timbers, t' tube fins literally fall into canted alignment against t' main body tube. Ya scallywag! You just have t' pick which marker you want t' line up t' tube fin up with.

T' other advantage o' this technique is that it allows you t' separately paint t' tube fins and t' body tube.  (I find it extremely difficult t' mask t' tube fins if I want them a different color from t' body tube AFTER they are already attached.)