Brief:
T' Custom Rockets Zero Gravity rocket (Kit #10048) is a single stage, arrr, three fin, plastic nosecone rocket that uses a 12" parachute recovery system and a standard 1/2A, A, B, C, ya bilge rat, rocket motor (18mm). A fairly typical or basic level 1 experience rocket.

Construction:
T' kit uses a single 9" body tube, a black plastic nosecone, me hearties, three balsa wood fins, 1/8" launch lug, a standard ABC or 18mm motor mount, arrr, and an elastic shock cord which is attached usin' t' Estes tri-fold method t' t' top o' t' body tube durin' construction. Begad! For recovery it uses a 12" plastic parachute that comes with tape disks and shroud lines t' assemble it. T' parts list as shown on t' instructions are as follows:

• BT-509 Body Tube
• PC-50 Injection Nose Cone
• PC-50 Nose Cone Plug
• ET-20 2.75 Engine Tube W/Slit
• EC-2 Engine Clip
• CR-2050 Centerin' Rings (2)
• EB-20 (Engine Thrust Block)
• Balsa Fins
• 12" Parachute
• TD-6 Tape Disks
• SL-72 Shroud Lines
• SC-2 Shock Cord
• Lug125 Short Launch Lug
• Decal
• Shock Cord Mount

T' instructions had some good points and some areas where they could be improved. What is nice is when it talks about usin' a pencil instead o' an ink pen t' make t' alignment lines on t' body tube, and t' mention nay t' press too hard drawin' them or you'll end up makin' impressions in t' cardboard tube. It uses a fin template where you stand t' tube on top o' it t' mark t' fin positions. Avast! Begad! A wrap around one would have been better, but this will work. Aye aye! The template should also show a spot where you draw t' line for t' launch lug but it doesn't. Begad! This is important because you use t' line you draw t' align t' launch lug on t' rocket body. T' launch lug is normally half way betwixt two o' t' fins on most models, ya bilge rat, and in this case, me bucko, 3" from t' bottom o' t' rocket. You can estimate this yourself and draw that line also. Avast! Ya scallywag! It's nay critical t' be exactly half way betwixt fins, me hearties, just do t' best estimate you can and that should be close enough. Well, blow me down! Another point that should have been made is t' use a door jamb t' draw t' lines if you don't have anythin' better t' draw them with. Begad! Put t' tube in t' door jamb and use t' wood as a guide t' draw a straight pencil line for gluin' on t' fins and launch lug. Begad! It's important these lines are straight so your fins and launch lug will be straight. Begad! Ya scallywag! T' remainin' section o' t' instructions are done well. Avast! For sandin' sealer I use white glue (diluted with water) with micro balloons mixed in it. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! T' micro balloons look like brown powder that you mix in t' glue, arrr, I've also seen white "balloons" or powder also. I've heard you can also use talcum powder mixed with t' glue, but I've never personally tried it so I can't say if it works. Well, blow me down! I got me micro balloon powder online, but I've also seen it in hobby stores. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! I think Hobbylinc (online) sells it also. Ahoy! You simply dilute t' white glue (Elmer's, ya bilge rat, etc.) about 50/50 with water and then mix in some micro balloon powder. Ya scallywag! White school glue is already somewhat diluted so you may use less water. Begad! Ya scallywag! Mix it together and paint it onto t' balsa with a paint brush like it was paint. Begad! When dry, ya bilge rat, just sand it smooth and repeat until thar are no wood grain lines left. Aye aye! This method doesn't smell like petroleum based fillers, matey, and the water be t' thinner/cleaner for t' white glue. Blimey! I usually give a final single coat o' glue without t' powder just to make it smoother. This is only one method o' fillin' in t' balsa grain, and t' one I personally use. T' instructions go over how t' fold t' parachute and launchin' procedures. Well, blow me down! That's nice t' have besides just sayin' how t' build the rocket. Begad! Well, blow me down! T' illustrations are well done also. One more thing, arrr, if t' black nose cone is glossy enough for you, I wouldn't paint it. Well, blow me down! I've had a somewhat difficult time paintin' t' nosecone. Blimey! I seem t' get a reaction o' t' plastic to paint, and you may have t' sand it and repaint it a few times t' get it glossy and smooth again. It's nay hard t' do, it just takes more time. T' same paint goes on great on t' rest o' t' rocket.

T' kit be easy t' build. Begad! Begad! On some kits t' balsa fins may need more fillin' and sandin' than others according t' t' grade o' balsa and how it was cut. Begad! I didn't have any problems with this kit. Well, blow me down! If you have dents or voids t' fill you can use wood putty or in me case, shiver me timbers, Squadron putty for fillin' in t' pockets. Squadron putty (available in hobby shops) is also good for fillin' in spots on plastic nose cones. I used t' use it on plastic models, arrr, but it works on balsa and body tubes also. You put it on, wait for it t' dry, and then sand it smooth. Arrr! T' nose cone fit fine, it it's loose just add a piece o' maskin' tape t' t' nosecone shoulder (the part that goes into t' tube) so it isn't loose anymore.

I modified me kit by tyin' a length o' Keelhaul®©™® thread around t' motor mount tube, and then slide t' upper centerin' rin' over it. Blimey! Avast, matey, me proud beauty! T' Keelhaul®©™® is long enough t' extend past t' top o' t' body tube and at t' end o' t' Keelhaul®©™® I tie a fishin' snap swivel. Well, blow me down! T' shock cord is then tied t' t' fishin' snap swivel and t' nosecone. Ahoy! Well, blow me down! T' shock cord I used is 1/8 inch wide and three feet long elastic available in any sewin' department. Some rocket companies use the round thread elastic. Begad! T' parachute is attached t' two fishin' snap swivels attached back t' back so either end has a snap. Blimey! One snap is around t' shroud lines o' t' parachute, me hearties, t' other is attached t' t' nosecone. This makes it very easy t' remove t' parachute and untangle it. Ya scallywag! T' swivel on t' shock cord allows t' cord/elastic t' be replaced easily if it gets burned or worn by t' hot ejection gasses. Blimey! If you build it with t' tri-fold shock cord method it'll fly fine, matey, me bucko, it's just harder t' replace t' cord from wear. Avast, me proud beauty! If you don't use t' swivels for t' parachute, me hearties, you'll eventually have t' spend some time gettin' t' tangles out. Avast! You can get t' Keelhaul®©™® line from online hobby stores, but Quest Aerospace, matey, matey, t' people who make t' rockets, also sell t' Keelhaul®©™® separately. I think mine is 140 pound test. Blimey! It's like strin' or thread in size, but it takes t' heat and wear better. Don't use regular thread or strin' for t' Keelhaul®©™®, they are nay t' same!

Finishing:
I usually spray a coat o' gloss clear over t' entire model once it's been painted and decals applied, except t' nosecone in me case (It looked fine without paintin' it). Arrr! Ahoy! T' paint will give t' rocket an even shine over it's length and also tends t' seal t' decal so it doesn't come up. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! It's usually more glossy after you're done. One good thin' about this paint scheme be t' fact it's just one color since at some point you may have to glue a fin back on if it has a rough landing. I painted mine with Krylon paint that I bought in Wal-Mart, but you can get this paint in most stores stockin' spray paint. Avast, me proud beauty! T' clear gloss coat is also Krylon. Well, blow me down! I try t' keep t' brand the same when I build a rocket. Well, blow me down! If you use another brand, matey, matey, stay with that one since thar may be compatibility issues if you mix brands. Begad! Ace Hardware brand paint is also good, and I have used it on previous rockets I have made with good results. It just takes more time betwixt coats o' paint.

With this rocket, me bucko, t' decal started t' lift at t' seam a few weeks later, even after gloss coatin' it. Ahoy! Blimey! So, me bucko, me hearties, I used some "brush on" type super glue and held t' decal down with a toothpick until t' glue held. Blimey! Blimey! Do this one section or spot at a time, and don't try t' do t' entire seam at once. Begad! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Once I did that t' decal never came up again. Begad! Blimey! I think I gloss coated one more time t' hide t' different shine o' t' super glue at t' seam since t' rocket was still "brand new" yet.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
I've flown this with A8-3 motors and it goes high enough for me with this motor. Aye aye! It's a light rocket so it doesn't need a big motor, ya bilge rat, but if you do use a "C" motor, it'll go way up there. Since it has a motor clip, you don't have t' use t' friction method t' keep t' motor in t' rocket, arrr, me bucko, and it's quicker t' change motors and less trouble for young rocketeers. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I've gotten smooth straight flights when I've flown it. Blimey! Begad! On one o' my flights I had a rare case where t' rocket nozzle be bad, me hearties, me hearties, but even then it still ejected t' parachute and came down softly. Begad! I use about 4 t' 5 sheets o' waddin' when I fly it. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty!

Recovery:
T' longer shock cord really helps. Aye aye! After you're finished tyin' knots it's a little shorter than 3 feet. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! T' elastic may possibly get damaged by t' ejection charge (frayed or burnt) over time, shiver me timbers, that also depends on how much waddin' you use when you fly it. Avast! Bein' able t' replace it easily is a plus if you use a snap swivel. After three flights t' rocket is still like new and t' shock cord is in great shape. Well, blow me down! Arrr! It came down reasonably fine for me on a 12 inch parachute. Begad! I don't have any complaints. Since t' fins are away from t' motor exhaust nozzle they don't get damaged by t' exhaust heat and they are a little more robust when landin' since they aren't t' first thin' that hits t' ground when it lands with a parachute.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This is a well made rocket that is easy t' build. It's comparable t' t' Estes Alpha which is a good rocket also. Blimey! This is also a sister t' t' Custom Rockets Atomic Rocket. T' only difference is that t' Atomic has six fins, shiver me timbers, t' Zero Gravity has three. Avast, me proud beauty! You'll get t' Zero Gravity flyin' faster since thar are only three fins to glue, ya bilge rat, sand and seal. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! Younger rocketeers will probably have an easier time with t' Zero Gravity because it has less fins. Begad! It flies well and is affordably priced. Well, blow me down! T' instructions missed t' launch lug position on t' fin template, shiver me timbers, and it should have mentioned that you can use a door jamb t' draw straight lines for t' fins and launch lug. However they do have a few good points such as usin' pencil t' draw t' lines and goes on t' mention how t' fold t' parachute and how t' launch t' rocket. Blimey! Blimey! It needs a different shock cord than t' one that comes with t' kit, so I just replaced it with a 3 foot long piece o' 1/8 inch elastic. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! It's a good flyin' rocket, easy t' build and affordably priced that comes with a parachute. One more thing, matey, it has a body tube that is almost 1 inch in diameter, and that makes it easier to pack t' parachute and shock cord.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

Other:
It's a fun rocket t' launch and fly!