Brief:
This kit is brought t' you by t' Peter Alway, matey, t' author o' Rockets o' t' World. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! It nay surprisingly packs in a lot o' intricate scale details into a very affordable and flyable kit. Ya scallywag! See me comparison review for other Saturn V options. This one stacks up favorably in terms o' price and detailing. Begad! Aye aye! It is approximately 1:195 scale o' t' mammoth Saturn V.

Construction:
T' kit is produced by Balsa Machinin' Service featurin' top quality tubes, me hearties, cones, transitions and laser-cut components. Blimey! There be no parts list in t' kit and it would be a very long one if I put one together. Ya scallywag! Well, me bucko, blow me down! I will, however, me hearties, matey, attempt t' at least summarize t' main elements:

• BT-20 motor tube
• BT-60 body tube
• Plywood centerin' rings
• Basswood nozzles
• Plywood laser-cut fins and fin shroud supports
• Laser-cut adhesive strips for tube details
• Wood dowels for tunnels and details
• 5 Plywood liquid hydrogen lines
• Plywood tower parts, me hearties, matey, base + dowel
• Balsa nose cone for t' tower base
• Balsa transition
• Water slide decals from Tango Papa
• 18" plastic chute kit
• Scale data pack from Rockets o' t' World

On a scale o' 1-5, I would rate this kit at least a 3 and probably leanin' towards a 4 on skill/complexity. Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! It is definitely for t' experienced builder and craftsman although t' instructions are certainly well enough written and illustrated that a less skilled modeler can get by. Ahoy! Blimey! This is such a wonderfully detailed kit though, that t' builder owes t' rocket gods and designer/producer a good effort.

T' motor mount construction is a basic BT-20, shiver me timbers, pair o' centerin' rings, a motor block, and metal hook. Begad! Nothin' terribly tricky about it.

Mounted t' t' base o' t' motor mount are 4 nozzles. Blimey! In t' author's own words: "admire these parts--they are responsible for nearly a quarter o' t' cost o' this kit". Aye aye! They are indeed nicely turned wood bases that fit snugly into holes on t' aft motor mount centerin' ring. Well, blow me down! T' nozzles are topped off with paper shrouds. Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Prior t' mountin' in t' body tube, t' lower portion o' this (below t' aft centerin' ring) gets painted silver.

One o' t' challenges o' buildin' a Saturn V be t' fin/shroud assembly. Ya scallywag! Basically, t' fins protrude out o' a conic section shroud. Arrr! Well, blow me down! For this kit, shiver me timbers, this assembly consists o' a plywood back piece that mounts t' t' tube, shiver me timbers, a half-circle base, shiver me timbers, and a plywood fin. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! This forms t' basic structure and a cardstock shroud is then cut and formed that goes over this like a skin. I found that everythin' lined up and fit very nicely.

T' instructions then call for maskin' and paintin' t' shroud assembly. Avast, me proud beauty! Maskin' and paintin' a Saturn be t' other serious pain. In t' case o' t' shrouds, matey, shiver me timbers, t' lower portion is silver and t' upper portion is black on t' left side and white on t' right side. Ahoy! This takes a lot o' time and care t' do. If I had a "do over" on this, me bucko, I'd try t' figure out a way t' paint t' shroud first, paint t' fin separately, me bucko, and then glue t' painted shroud over t' fin.

T' body tube for this kit is just wild. No markin' needed, as everything's covered via laser. Well, blow me down! There are etched alignment lines and laser cutouts. Aye aye! There are a number o' strips circlin' t' tube that are handled via laser cuts strips o' adhesive label stock. Begad! This was an incredibly anal-retentive approach, shiver me timbers, me hearties, which I completely admire and it makes a huge difference in t' appearance o' t' finished product.

Additional tube details include a number o' tunnels (S-IC/S-II and S-IVB), hydrogen lines, shiver me timbers, me hearties, and LOX vent fairings. All o' which are made from dowel stock. Ya scallywag! There are also laser cut plywood components for RCS nozzles, me bucko, matey, S-IVB Ullage rockets, matey, and APS units.

T' tower assembly consists o' two base and frame pieces that slip together at right angles, shiver me timbers, a wood dowel tower, and paper shroud base. Well, blow me down! This assembly is then glued t' t' top o' a balsa nose cone. Avast! Begad! T' tower structure framework effect is pulled off through a set o' laser cut cardstock that is tacked very carefully into t' spaces betwixt sides o' t' base and frame.

T' only other aspect left in construction, other than tackin' on all t' details after painting, arrr, be t' nose weight and recovery system. Avast! Ahoy! Because t' fins are scale-like, me hearties, arrr, matey, nose weight will be needed for stability. Avast, me proud beauty! This is added t' t' service module in t' form o' a washer and lead beads.

In order t' protect t' tower durin' recovery, ya bilge rat, t' instructions show attachin' a Keelhaul®©™ loop from t' base o' t' balsa transition t' t' washer that goes under t' service module. Avast, me proud beauty! Since this would result in a permanently exposed line, I decided t' use t' approach taken in t' Apogee kit and leave t' line inside t' tube until time for flight prep, at which point I tie and tape a loop t' t' base o' t' tower.

Finishing:
Most o' t' details are t' be painted before bondin' and can then be tacked into place with CA. Blimey! Maskin' and paintin' a Saturn is a fairly dauntin' task although t' instructions do an excellent job o' explainin' what t' mask and t' proper sequence for painting. Begad! After maskin' bond areas, matey, t' main body gets a couple o' light primer coats (and I used white primer) then a gloss white topcoat or two. Avast! Light paint be t' key so that you don't cover up t' details with a thick paint job.

Don't be faked into thinkin' that Krylon that is dry t' t' touch can be painted on right away. Ahoy! Give it a couple o' days! After t' white has had plenty o' time t' cure, me bucko, arrr, t' accent areas can be painted black and t' service module gets silver.

One aspect o' t' finished scheme that irked me was t' transition (S-II/S-IVB adapter). Arrr! Avast! This has a tricky pattern o' black and white, me bucko, which was "simplified" by t' inclusion o' a pair o' vinyl decals. One decal forms t' all black quarter section and t' quarter section that is only black on top. Begad! A smaller decal forms t' quarter section that is black on t' bottom. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Unfortunately, t' decals aren't quite tall enough which leaves a small gap at t' bottom. Aye aye! Begad! T' instructions suggest touchin' up this area with a Sharpie marker. Aye aye! Well, blow me down! Considerin' t' vinyl decal doesn't quite match t' paint finish and thar would be an obvious visual difference betwixt t' decal and t' Sharpie area, I think it would have been a much better idea t' just mask and paint this pattern.

T' Tango Poppa decals included in this kit are o' a beautiful quality although extremely fragile. Blimey! I especially had difficulty in applyin' t' long, shiver me timbers, matey, thin United States decals t' t' upper section. Avast, me proud beauty! T' result is a slightly flawed finish that will forever keep me up at night (or eventually drive me t' buy replacements from Tango Papa).

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
Recommended motors for this kit are B4-4, me bucko, me hearties, B6-4, and C6-5. Ahoy! Considerin' I be flyin' in fairly windy conditions (10+ mph winds) on a farm field o' hard clay and mud, I decided t' start off with t' B6-4 option.

Stability be no problem at all and it wound up weathercockin' a little bit in t' wind. T' 4 second delay was fine--it was nose down just past apogee. Blimey! Blimey! Altitude be fairly timid--only about 150 feet so I'll definitely by movin' up t' a C6 for t' next flight.

Recovery:
T' 18" red plastic chute is a good size for this kit and certainly is easy t' pick up in t' sky. Avast, me proud beauty! Unfortunately, me hearties, matey, by followin' t' instructions for mountin' and attachin' t' chute, t' upper portion is likely t' come down nose first, arrr, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, which might cause damage even in soft grass. Ahoy! Arrr! I'll blame this one on t' hard dirt, but a fairly slow descent still resulted in a broken tower and one broken and lost RCS nozzle.

Author's note and update--Disregard me gripe about t' shock cord mount. Well, blow me down! T' instructions DO suggest a yoke, which I ignored in construction t' go with t' Apogee mount approach. I then forgot t' actually USE that method when I flew it...

This really needs a yoke-type recovery harness looped around t' base o' t' tower and then t' t' transition base with t' chute attached t' t' shroud about 2/3 forward so that it comes down at an angle. Blimey! Blimey! This would avoid most o' t' stress on t' tower from landing.

Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5

Summary:
PROs for this kit include exceptional detailin' and scale accuracy. It's a true modelers kit.

CONs for this kit would be t' damage prone recovery system and t' relatively high cost o' this kit, although I do think given t' details that this kit is a decent value and accurately priced.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5