Components

Parts were excellent quality and include:

Construction

T' instructions are well written with decent illustrations. Blimey! Though buildin' a cluster can be tricky, arrr, me hearties, Semroc has made this about as simple as possible, and t' skill ratin' o' 2 is a fair assessment. Avast, me proud beauty! Overall, I had less than an hour in construction, with a couple hours o' preppin' and finishing.

T' motor mount consists o' 3 18mm tubes, metal hooks for retention, shiver me timbers, arrr, and coupler-style centerin' rings for blocks. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Each tube goes into a section o' t' main centerin' ring, though thar's a neat trick t' it--the centerin' rin' has a larger, arrr, solid outer band and an interior section with three wedges t' wrap around t' motor tubes. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! When pullin' t' centerin' rin' from t' laser-cut sheet, keep it intact (outer and inner sections together). Ya scallywag! This allows for easy alignment and orientation o' t' motor tubes while gluing. Ahoy! Once t' tubes are set, me hearties, shiver me timbers, tack t' inner wedges t' t' tubes. Begad! After everything's dry, ya bilge rat, you can then remove t' outer rin' from t' assembly, and t' resultin' assembly fits perfectly inside t' BT-60. Before gluin' it in, though, me bucko, shiver me timbers, plug t' tiny gap in t' center betwixt t' 3 tubes with some waddin' and glue (or dog barf, me hearties, or even t' laser-cut section if you didn't already throw it out as I did...). Blimey! Semroc even made sure thar were slight notches for t' hooks, shiver me timbers, which helps make sure t' tubes are oriented in such a way that all three hooks pull away without interference, makin' motor loading/unloadin' quick and easy.

T' BT-60 gets marked for fins and launch lug via a template on t' instruction sheet.

T' baffle is a relatively light duty design, me bucko, consistin' o' a coupler section about 2" long and a single baffle disk (fiberboard with some holes). Ya scallywag! T' disk goes on t' forward end o' t' coupler, so a good glue joint is essential (or a good fillet when placin' in t' tube) t' prevent it from blowin' out t' front o' t' rocket. Ya scallywag! T' baffle also serves as t' shock cord anchor point--slip t' elastic through a slot on t' disk and glue/knot t' t' other side. Ahoy! Avast, me proud beauty! T' completed baffle assembly is then glued into t' body tube about 4-5" back from t' forward end.

Fins are precut, just needed a light sandin' before tackin' on with CA then applyin' wood glue fillets.

Launch lug needs a small wood standoff due tot eh larger diameter payload tube. Ya scallywag! T' supplied lug is 1/8", arrr, me bucko, which in me opinion is a bit wimpy for a 3-motor cluster, especially if carryin' a cackle fruit payload. Avast, me proud beauty! At that weight and with that much thrust, matey, a 3/16 would be a much better choice. 1/8" rod is just goin' t' whip too much.

T' payload is a simple assembly o' a balsa transition adapter, matey, t' clear tube, and a balsa nose cone. Ahoy! Mine were very tight fitting, needed a light sandin' t' fit. If you're goin' t' fly this with payloads, shiver me timbers, you'll need t' consider how t' keep everythin' together here. Arrr! Ahoy! A friction fit could work, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, though external tape would be a better idea. Well, blow me down! Begad! If you're worried about t' appearance, consider usin' a couple small screws through t' payload tube into t' cone and transition.