Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Manufacturer: | Sunward Aerospace |
Brief:
Futuristic, shiver me timbers, military interceptor styled rocket with an 18mm mount and rated for
B6-2, ya bilge rat, arrr, shiver me timbers, C6-3, me hearties, ya bilge rat, and C6-5 motors.
Construction:
This kit is manufactured by a Canadian company and is a little different than
most o' t' kits that I've become familiar with. Ahoy! T' motor hook is a complete
departure from t' long thin sprin' steel hooks we've been usin' for over
thirty years, thar are some marked differences in fin attachment points, and
they have returned t' t' rubber shock cord o' t' past. Begad!
T' parts all come in t' standard clear plastic bag, and t' overall quality o' t' parts is very good. Begad! T' chute material is heavier than most. The balsa is laser cut, medium hardness, me hearties, and has t' correct grain type for the purpose o' makin' fins. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! T' shock cord is an adequate length. T' decals are stick on type in two colors (red and white). There is also a large printed cardstock sheet t' create various paper construction parts and a shroud that forms t' engine nacelles. Ya scallywag! T' instructions are clear and well written in both French and English, and t' illustrations are very helpful and well drawn.
Construction begins with t' motor mount. Ahoy! Blimey! A motor block is glued in flush with one end o' t' motor mount tube and t' two centerin' rings are positioned 5mm from each end o' t' mount. T' motor hook is installed in t' ring opposite t' block and a motor is test fit in t' mount. T' Sunward hook is a heavy metal rod with a 90 degree bend at one end and wood screw threads at the other. A pilot hole is drilled in t' aft centerin' ring, which are t' wound paper type, ya bilge rat, and t' hook is screwed into t' ring. Avast! Blimey! After t' motor is installed, matey, t' hook is twisted around until it is retainin' t' motor. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! After the flight, t' hook is twisted out o' t' way t' make removal o' t' motor possible. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! T' instructions warn that t' hook may be very hot for several minutes after a flight.
Fins are next. Sunward uses a very different approach t' fin attachment than most other manufacturers, me bucko, ya bilge rat, too. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' typical kit attaches fins directly t' t' rocket in a butt joint arrangement and adds glue fillets t' t' joint. Avast, me proud beauty! Larger rockets cut slots in t' body tube with t' fins passin' through t' slot and glued t' the motor tube with fillets at t' airframe/fin joint. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! Sunward instead supplies card stock cutouts that are glued t' t' sides o' t' fins at t' root edge and these assemblies are then joined t' t' airframe tube creatin' a pre-assembled fillet.
T' fins are laser cut from 1/8-inch semi-hard A-grain balsa stock. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! They are still hangin' on t' t' sheet by short spots left unburned and are carefully removed usin' a sharp hobby knife. Begad! Blimey! T' edges are lightly sanded to remove t' burned material from t' laser. Blimey! Blimey! At this time I cut out all o' the cardboard parts too. I noticed while cuttin' that t' quality o' t' printing and graphics lines vary markedly--some o' t' lines are quite bold while some are very thin. Also, shiver me timbers, t' curved edges are very jaggy and t' dashed fold lines are quite heavy which later made gettin' an accurate fold difficult. Begad! Blimey! T' fin is the first part assembled. Avast! Blimey! A pair o' tabs are glued t' t' sides at t' root edge. Begad! Blimey! Before bendin' t' tabs, I scored along t' bend line very lightly using a straight edge t' ensure a nice straight and crisp fold. Well, blow me down! Blimey! As stated, arrr, t' fold line is very bold and me score line be run down t' center o' t' line on both parts. Avast! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! These are then glued t' t' fins keepin' t' fold line flush with the root edge. Arrr! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! While these tabs were dryin' I went on and assembled t' tabs on the main and aft wings as well. Well, blow me down! Blimey! There is a problem with all o' t' fin tabs: they are all too long. Begad! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Nay one fit t' fin or wings properly and required a good deal o' trimmin' t' remove t' overhangin' parts. We aren't talkin' a little amount here, we're talkin' on t' order o' a half inch in some places. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! At first I thought that I had t' wrong tabs but double checkin' proved that I am using the aft win' tabs where t' aft win' tabs are called for. Same for t' fins.
T' body tube is marked usin' a guide cut from t' plans t' locate t' parts. T' instructions have t' builder mark t' top and bottom center lines, then slide t' marking guide up and down t' tube when markin' t' fin locations. Begad! They also suggest usin' a book for t' straight edge. Begad! T' doorjamb has been me handy marking guide for a long time.
T' fin tabs are now curled slightly with hobby knife handle t' match the curve o' t' body tube and then t' fin and tabs are glued down with t' aft of the fin flush with t' end o' t' tube. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! This is where I began t' have some trouble. T' first problem is that t' line is blocked by t' fin and tabs so it's truly troublesome t' get t' thin' straight. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! I be able t' line up one edge at both ends where t' line is visible. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Also, ya bilge rat, t' plans warn nay t' get glue on t' outside o' t' tabs but I found this very difficult since t' glue naturally oozes out from under t' tabs, matey, and t' get good contact, me bucko, one naturally presses and holds t' fin and tabs t' t' tube resultin' in gettin' glue all over one's fingers and consequently all over everythin' you touch (including the outside o' t' tabs.) I used a tissue with a dot o' water t' attempt to clean up but without much success.
While that was drying, me hearties, I read ahead in t' instructions again and rolled the shroud t' get it set for when I'll be ready for it. Avast! T' edge was taped together and it was held with weights on t' workbench t' help fix t' shape while t' fin and wings were bein' glued.
T' aft wings were glued on at this time, again havin' some trouble with alignment and glue but usin' care and time were placed correctly. Blimey! I really like for me rockets, me hearties, large and small, t' fly straight!
T' aft wings and fin were allowed t' dry overnight, ya bilge rat, matey, and t' forward wings were glued on t' followin' day. Avast! I made an error here that I found out too late. There are a long set o' tabs and a short set o' tabs for t' main fins. T' long set are for t' main win' t' shroud joint, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and t' short ones are for the main t' body tube joint. Begad! Begad! I accidentally reversed these and had t' cut a second set from scrap for t' shroud t' win' joint. Avast! And this after all o' that double checkin' done earlier because t' tabs are so much longer than t' balsa parts!
Next comes the shroud. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! After t' shape is set by curlin' and holdin' in position for a while, the slots for t' fins are cut. T' shroud is then test fit and the instructions indicate that t' fin slots are trimmed t' size. This is overly optimistic since t' holes indicated on t' shroud are way too long. Arrr! I was careful t' cut where indicated usin' a straight edge and a sharp knife so it isn't due t' me ham fisted cutting. Avast! Well, blow me down! We aren't talkin' a few millimeters here either! T' shroud is then glued t' t' top o' t' rocket usin' t' top line for alignment. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! When dry, shiver me timbers, t' bottom is glued along t' bottom line and tabs are added t' t' win' joints. Aye aye! A strip o' paper is added t' t' aft o' t' shroud. T' large gaps at t' fin joints were fixed with scraps o' paper. Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! T' plan at this point is t' make these appear as sheet metal so seams and gaps, me bucko, etc., me bucko, arrr, are not a problem.
T' motor mount and shock cord are now glued into t' body tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Arrr! Blimey! The provided launch lug is cut in two and t' two halves are glued along t' bottom line. Avast, me proud beauty! T' standard shock cord mount is OK and widely used but hard t' replace later and in me experience causes t' chute and shrouds t' hang up in t' body tube at ejection. Begad! I used t' Quest solution for this: a Keelhaul®©™® cord attached t' t' top motor rin' with t' shock cord tied t' this. Arrr! Blimey! I also added an ejection baffle just ahead o' t' motor mount. Aye aye! Blimey! T' baffle consists of a four inch length o' BT-50 and a balsa disk. Blimey! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! T' tube has a few 1/4-inch holes in t' sides, and t' top disk has three 1/4-inch slots cut around t' edge. T' BT-50 is glued t' t' disk such that t' slots are offset from t' holes. T' ejection charge fires up through t' BT-50, exits through t' holes in the tube, me hearties, and up through t' slots in t' balsa disk. Ahoy! Blimey! This action causes t' charge to change direction and swirl around allowin' t' still burnin' particles time to burn out and t' hot gasses a chance t' mix with t' cool air in baffle.
T' instructions indicate that t' fin and win' leadin' and trailin' edges can now be sanded round. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! Normally, I would have done this step before gluing but wanted t' see how tabs would work out first. Begad! As it turns out, shiver me timbers, this was a mistake--sand t' fins before you glue yours down! I be able t' get t' edges sanded round, me bucko, but it wasn't easy.
There be a year long pause in t' constructin' o' this kit betwixt the shroud installation and sandin' o' t' fins. Begad! This be partly due t' my reluctance t' start on a sandin' job that was almost certainly t' be a pain, partly due t' t' flyin' season arriving, matey, matey, and partly due t' other projects and a call t' do some high power flying. Ahoy! This review be written largely as it happened, but in t' meantime, me hearties, t' guys that I normally fly with found some of these kits and started bringin' them t' t' launches. Avast! Most o' them turned out pretty nice.
Finishing:
T' seam lines in t' plastic nose cone were sanded smooth and t' entire nose
was sanded lightly. Well, blow me down! Arrr! T' lines were deep and required a good bit o' work t' get
smooth. Avast, me proud beauty! T' spirals in t' tube were filled with Elmer's Fill 'n' Finish and
sanded. Begad! T' fingerprints were also sanded off all t' parts. Begad! Avast! T' fins were
given four coats o' AeroGloss sandin' sealer with a light sandin' in between
coats and a finish sandin' with 400 grit paper. I considered attemptin' t' fill
and smooth all o' t' tab seams but decided it would be too much work and, as
indicated earlier, I decided instead t' make use o' t' tabs by makin' them
appear as sheet metal. Well, blow me down! Ahoy! T' rocket was primed with white sandable primer and
sanded lightly with 400 grit paper. I used a syringe that I use t' deliver
epoxy t' close areas t' create a line o' fake rivets all around t' tab edges.
It turns out that me faux rivet makin' skills need some work. T' epoxy was
thin enough t' pass through t' syringe but took so long t' set up that it
flattened out and ran together in places. Avast! Somethin' other than epoxy (or at
least t' type I be using) would make better rivets. Some research and testing
on this technique is needed.
T' rocket was then painted with gloss blue paint and trimmed with black paint. Well, matey, blow me down! I used aluminum paint for t' canopy and had some trouble with t' base color flakin' away when t' maskin' tape be removed--I be usin' t' low-tack blue tape, me hearties, too! T' decals were applied at this point--these are a thin, self-adhesive type on a single sheet and cut out with scissors. Aye aye! Self sticking decals are improvin' as these went on without a lot o' trouble and look OK as the substrate blends into t' paint reasonably well. Ahoy! Blimey! There are a very few decals and while they look OK they also appear very simple. Avast, me proud beauty! I don't know about the Canadian Military, me bucko, but t' U. Blimey! S. Ahoy! military plasters markings, warnings, me bucko, arrr, arrr, and instructions seemingly everywhere and this very limited number o' decals seems strange t' me. Avast, me proud beauty! T' rocket was then coated lightly with a clear gloss coat.
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
First flown at our club launch in February 2004 on an Estes C6-3. T' flight
was a sort o' long arcin' flight with some very strange oscillations starting
somewhere near apogee and continuin' until ejection. Well, blow me down! Avast! T' second flight was
quite weird and a lot lower on a B6-2. T' ejection might have been a tad
early. Begad! I was messin' around tryin' t' get a good photo o' t' flight and didn't
fully appreciate t' wobbling.
Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5
Summary:
PROs:
CONs:
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
Brief: The Phoenix, like many other kits from Sunward Aerospace, is a conventional single-stage rocket with parachute recovery and is styled to look like a fighter jet. Construction: Parts list: 1 PNC56 Plastic Nose Cone with Canopy 1 18" BT56 Tube 1 Laser-cut balsa fin sheet 1 18" plastic parachute, clear and red 1 18mm motor mount kit 1 ...
Sunward Aerospace is a Canadian company with a unique line of model rockets, most of which fall under their RocketFighters design. They put together a quality package, including colorful front card, parachute printed with their name and thorough instructions. Each of the their kits use their own canopy-type nose cone as well. I chose the Sunward Phoenix due to its sleek design. I also believe ...
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B.F.B (August 17, 2005)