Brief:
O' t' Consmodrome line, t' 2 that have t' most appeal t' me are t' Vostok and t' Nike Apache. Begad! T' Vostok has been sittin' in me pile almost since t' beginnin' o' me return t' rocketry intimidatin' me. Aye aye! Blimey! T' Nike Apache is a recent acquisition and does nay seem nearly so intimidating. Well, blow me down! I decided t' give it a try.

Construction:
Construction started out by locatin' t' 29mm motor tube and runnin' a line down its length. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! An Estes angle tool was used t' do this. Begad! Begad! Tick marks were then placed 1/2" from either end along t' line.

T' kit came with 2 plywood centerin' rings. Arrr! Blimey! I had t' locate t' one with two notches, as opposed t' t' single notch ring, and t' steel recovery harness. Well, blow me down! T' loop in t' steel cable was fitted through t' 2 notches in the centerin' rin' and then slipped into place on t' motor mount at one o' t' tick marks. Well, blow me down! T' rin' was then epoxied into place.

T' other centerin' rin' had only a larger, single notch in it. It be placed at t' opposite end o' t' motor tube with t' notch lined up over t' line and epoxied into place, arrr, shiver me timbers, makin' sure that no epoxy obstructed t' hole formed by t' notch.

T' instructions indicated that I was t' cut 2 pieces o' cardstock, ya bilge rat, one be a strip 1.5" x 1/8" and the other be 1/2" x 1/8". Arrr! Begad! A piece o' threaded rod was then fed through t' hole on t' centerin' rin' and the tube was marked at t' point where 3/4" protruded from t' end. It took a while for me t' understand t' purpose o' t' strips I had cut. Begad! T' instructions said t' place them betwixt t' threaded rod and t' motor tube. Aye aye! They did not indicate a purpose or an orientation. Blimey! After a while, ya bilge rat, I realized that t' longer strip terminated at t' mark I had made for t' rod and deduced, me bucko, correctly I hope, that they are just t' give a slight angle t' t' rod which is used for motor retention. I tacked t' long strip in place and then t' shorter one on top o' it. T' rod be then inserted t' the mark and epoxied into place, takin' care nay t' let epoxy onto t' lower threads.

T' kit came with 4 plywood fins for t' Nike portion o' t' stack. Ahoy! T' instructions said t' sand them down t' a knife edge on t' leadin' and trailin' edges. Ya scallywag! Begad! I marked t' centerline, arrr, arrr, got out a sandin' block, sanded a bit and then reconsidered. Ya scallywag! There has t' be a "good" way t' do this right. After hearin' back from Cosmodrome on TRF, me bucko, me bucko, I adopted t' manufacturer's recommended practice for sandin' in t' correct profile t' t' fins. I applied a wide strip o' maskin' tape along t' line I had marked on t' side opposite t' which I wanted t' sand. I then put two more strips o' narrower tape right on top o' it and did t' same t' t' reverse side. A sandin' block was then repeated drawn along t' side t' be sanded gradually removin' material. Begad! When t' sandpaper had eaten through t' top two pieces o' tape, arrr, matey, the tape was replaced and t' process continued. Arrr! I found that for each surface o' each side o' each fin, I would have to replace t' tape about 4 times in order t' achieve t' "knife edge". Begad! Arrr! Be advised that I am speakin' in terms o' butter knives, me hearties, I be afraid o' ruinin' t' fins by sandin' anymore. Ya scallywag! Avast! I got 1 fin done per day because it does take time and, frankly, it be nay an enjoyable process for me. Avast! Begad! That bein' said, me bucko, it was effective and I have no complaints. I think t' result will be worth it.

With three fins done and a fourth one waitin' t' be done, I stared dejectedly at me dwindlin' supply o' course sandpaper and looked wistfully towards me belt sander. Against me better judgment, I decided t' give it a try. Blimey! Begad! I masked off t' high areas as before, flipped t' switch and hoped that I be nay destroyin' t' fin. Avast! It actually went easier and slower than I expected with slow bein' t' key word. Begad! Ahoy! I was able t' give t' fin an acceptable profile and avoid a trip t' t' hardware store.

T' last page o' t' instructions came with a fin markin' guide o' t' type where you set t' rocket on the circle and make your marks. Begad! I generally prefer t' wraparound type but don't knock any points for this type. Well, blow me down! This is especially with so since, me bucko, for me, t' butt types are nay as difficult t' use with t' larger tubes. Well, blow me down! It also helps with both types when t' sizes are dead on and this one was.

T' Nike body tube be placed on t' template and t' lines for t' 4 fins and t' lug were transferred. Aye aye! Ahoy! An angle be then used t' lengthen t' lines with t' lug line runnin' t' length o' t' tube. Begad! Ahoy! Each o' the fin lines be marked a specified distance from t' back o' t' tube; I think it was an inch but I do nay remember. The fins were numbered in pencil with t' characters for one through four since I was nay certain that they were strictly interchangeable in terms o' t' sanded profiles. Ahoy! T' fin lines were also so marked. Blimey! T' root edges o' t' fins were then aligned with their respective fin lines havin' their aft edges along t' previously mentioned marks and were then held in place as a pencil was used t' draw their outlines. Aye aye! Begad! A razor knife was then used t' cut out t' marked lines and allow t' fins t' slide in.

T' next step be t' wrap t' aft o' t' body tube with Saran Wrap. Arrr! This is t' protect it from t' moisture that is soon t' come. Avast! Aye aye! When t' wrap be in place, I retrieved t' provided piece o' cardstock and spritzed with water from a spay bottle I swiped from you-know-who's laundry department. T' purpose o' this is t' allow t' cardstock t' more easily conform t' t' body. I wrapped t' stock around t' body and tied it into place t' dry with some surplus shroud line. Blimey! T' tube and wrap were then set aside t' dry. Begad! A day later, I removed t' strin' holdin' t' wrap in place and, sure enough, it had been re-molded into approximately t' curvature o' t' Nike body tube. Begad! I did a little trimmin' with a razor knife t' remove a tiny bit o' material from one end t' make a tight closure and then used some sandpaper to fair up t' edge.

Some slow cure epoxy (30 minute) was mixed because I perceive it t' be a thinner fluid and was then brushed onto t' inside o' t' wrap. Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! T' wrap was slid into place flush with t' aft end o' t' BT and with t' seam along the launch lug line. Blimey! Some maskin' tape was used t' hold it in place as it dried.

I worked on some other things and about an hour later removed t' tape. Well, arrr, blow me down! T' next task be t' duplicate t' fin slots from t' BT on t' wrap. Begad! After several trial and error attempts, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I decided that t' easiest thin' t' do be to make a slit down t' center and then shave away from t' outside while peerin' down t' interior o' t' tube. Blimey! I kept whittlin' away until I test fit each o' t' numbered fins successfully. Arrr! Well, me hearties, blow me down!

A long swab was used t' make a rin' o' epoxy around t' interior o' t' BT just forward o' t' fin slots and the motor mount was shoved part way in. Arrr! When t' forward rin' was in, ya bilge rat, I paused and swabbed another rin' o' epoxy around the after end. Blimey! T' mount was then pushed into place with t' retainin' bolt aligned with t' seam on t' lower wrap and the aft centerin' rin' flush with t' end o' t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! T' tube was set upright for a while so t' epoxy would flow back towards t' rings as it set. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! After 10 minutes, I mixed some more epoxy and brushed it around t' seam on t' after ring and put it aside t' set up.

Next, me bucko, matey, I skipped ahead a few steps and pulled out t' Apache fins. Ya scallywag! These again were made of plywood and again needed t' have a profile added. Begad! Well, blow me down! I marked off an 1/8 inch on each leadin' edge, me hearties, drew a line and then marked t' line with a strip o' maskin' tape. Ahoy! Since I had developed a little confidence with t' best sander on the last o' t' Nike fins, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, I decided t' use it for t' Apache fins as well. I took it slow and, arrr, while t' bevels are not perfect, they are good by me own admittedly marginal standards.

T' first o' t' Nike fins t' be installed was number 4. Blimey! I test fit it once again and then applied some epoxy to t' root edge. T' fin was slipped into its slot and pressed into place checkin' for straightness. A bit o' epoxy was t' filleted along each side o' t' BT with me finger and allowed t' set up.

Fin number 3 be installed just as number 4 was except t' slot was a bit looser and I needed some tape t' hold things in place as t' epoxy cured. Begad! Avast! Further fin installation be interrupted by work concerns and I set things aside to dry for t' night.

When I got back t' t' Nike Apache, ya bilge rat, t' last two fins were installed like t' first two without any problems.

One o' t' things that I liked about this kit was t' way t' screw eye is mounted t' the transition. A natural worry with any rocket, especially a heavier one, shiver me timbers, be t' screw strippin' out at ejection even when reinforced by epoxy. This kit goes a long way in lessenin' that worry with its approach. Aye aye! Blimey! T' screw eye was screwed into a plastic anchor screw with large, shiver me timbers, me bucko, aggressive threads and then backed out. Begad! A drop o' epoxy was put into t' hole o' the anchor and t' screw eye re-inserted. Blimey! Begad! T' process was then repeated and t' anchor be screwed into t' balsa transition, backed out, t' hole filled with epoxy, and re-inserted. Ya scallywag! Epoxy be used t' fill around t' screw as well. On t' opposite end o' t' transition, a piece o' wooden dowel be epoxied into t' cavity t' strengthen a potential failure point.

T' base o' t' Apache portion o' t' rocket is a built up affair and I have t' admit that I almost ruined it. T' kit came with a short length o' 29mm motor tube which serves as t' base and what amounts t' a 29mm thrust ring. There was also a coupler tube t' fit within t' motor tube. Avast! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! T' first thin' I was instructed t' do be t' mark the longer o' t' two interior tubes at 1/4" and then epoxy it into one end o' t' motor tube leavin' 1/4" hangin' out. This be easily done but t' coupler would nay fit into t' motor tube so I had t' sand it down some, removin' me marks. It was easily marked again and then I decided t' use white glue instead o' epoxy. Aye aye! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! It be tight and I did nay think it be a realistic failure point.

T' next step was simple enough. T' thrust rin' be glued in place at t' opposite end o' t' motor tube. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! Again, white glue be used. Well, blow me down! T' interior joints at both ends were then filleted with white glue and it was set aside t' dry for a short while.

I took a look at t' Apache nose cone while t' base assembly be settin' up. Begad! It be reasonably clear balsa with just a touch o' roughness on one side. Avast, me proud beauty! I decided t' harden it some by dousin' it with some thin CA.

This next part is where things became dicey because I misunderstood t' instructions. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' instructions were correct but I was lettin' a single word cause me t' misinterpret them and even ignore (subconsciously) other verbiage that should have set me straight. Begad! I be supposed t' sand a bevel into t' portion o' t' coupler tube that extended from t' motor mount. It was supposed t' transition from its natural diameter t' t' diameter o' t' main Apache tube. Essentially, it was t' taper t' 0". Ya scallywag! That part I got and most o' t' taperin' be done with a sandin' stick. Avast! Blimey! It was t' next instruction that got me. Ahoy! Arrr! Blimey! I interpreted it t' mean that t' Apache tube would be butted up against t' freshly tapered coupler and epoxied into place with a simple butt joint restin' upon a "surface" that had just been sanded from a surface into an edge. Arrr! Blimey! I just knew it was goin' t' be t' primary failure mode o' each and every flight if t' rocket even made it t' t' field without breakin' at that point. Well, blow me down! Avast! I was already considerin' rollin' me own coupler t' fit into both t' original coupler tube and t' body tube so that I would have more gluin' surface and somethin' t' try and hold things straight. As stupid as this sounds, me hearties, I was convinced that be what I was supposed to do. Thankfully, ya bilge rat, an uncommon bout o' sense had me read t' instructions again and t' word that had thrown me was thrown up in relief.

T' aft end o' t' apache tube was t' be butted even with t' aft end o' t' base.

"Butt" had mislead me into ignorin' t' stupidity I was displaying. Blimey! T' Apache tube fit through t' sanded coupler, through t' motor mount, me hearties, and through t' thrust ring. It should have plenty o' support. Ahoy! I again used white glue instead o' epoxy.

With t' Apache tube secured in t' Apache base, ya bilge rat, I moved t' base over t' t' fin markin' guide for t' Apache and transferred t' marks. Ya scallywag! Begad! Doin' it with t' smaller tube made me wish again for t' wraparound type but t' job got done. An Estes angle tool was used t' run t' 4 lines t' length o' t' base and one o' t' lines was run t' length of t' entire Apache tube. Ahoy! Blimey! Each o' t' lines was marked off 1/4" from t' aft end and then t' fins and lines were numbered in t' same manner as t' Nike fins and slots were cut.

Mountin' o' t' Apache fins was for some reason more difficult than t' mountin' o' t' Nike fins. Arrr! This is nay to say that it was really hard, me hearties, arrr, they just did nay go as easily. Avast, me proud beauty! T' first fin be re-checked t' make sure it fit and then epoxy was placed in t' slot and along t' root edge. Well, blow me down! T' fin be then pressed into place and held with tape. Ahoy! The second fin also went on without any problem. Blimey! T' third fin was where it stopped goin' so well. It mounted easy enough and I kept eyeballin' alignment and finally realized that t' 1st and 3rd did nay line up as well as they should. Well, blow me down! Avast! I don't blame anybody for that except me but it is a reason I prefer t' wraparound guides t' t' butt end ones. Fortunately, arrr, t' final fin was OK. Well, blow me down! Begad! All were filleted with epoxy.

You may recall that early on in t' buildin' o' t' motor mount, t' instructions called for t' use o' some cardstock t' wedge betwixt t' retainin' screw and t' tube. I recalled it as well as I got t' next step and realized that I had cut t' strips from t' wrong piece o' cardstock. T' piece I had cut was supposed t' be used as t' forward wrap on t' Apache. Begad! Fortunately, arrr, me hearties, t' wrap be a little bit big and needed t' be cut down a bit. Arrr! That helped somewhat but thar would still be an ugly gap in one part o' t' seam. It was somethin' that I would have t' fix with filler later on.

I wrapped t' forward part o' t' Apache tube with Saran Wrap t' protect it from moisture and t' sprayed the Apache wrap with water t' make it more pliable. Arrr! Blimey! It was placed around t' tube, matey, tied into place, and allowed t' dry out overnight. Begad! Blimey! T' next day it had taken on its new shape. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Epoxy was then brushed onto t' inner surface o' t' wrap and it was applied t' t' forward end o' t' Apache. Begad! I tried t' line t' seam up with t' long line which had been run the length o' t' tube, me hearties, however, I must have let it shift without noticin' while gettin' things aligned. Ahoy! Blimey! T' wrap be held in place with tape as t' epoxy set up.

T' wrapped, ya bilge rat, me bucko, arrr, forward end o' t' Apache was pressed against t' tube markin' guide and t' lines were transferred. A mark was then made on each o' t' lines a specified distance from t' forward end. Arrr! If me memory serves, matey, each was 5-13/64". These marks were t' locate t' penetrations for t' antennae. Arrr!

T' penetrations were supposed t' be made with a drill. T' me horror, me bucko, shiver me timbers, me hearties, I realized that I had left me drill elsewhere doin' some actual maintenance t' t' house and that I was probably goin' t' have t' wait t' work further. Thinkin' about it though, t' bit I needed was small and t' materials t' be drilled through were nay tough. Avast, me proud beauty! On a lark, I tried just twirlin' t' bit betwixt me fingers. Blimey! It worked!

Surprisingly, t' next step was one o' t' toughest for me. Ahoy! T' antennae are formed by a pair o' styrene rods Each is t' be pushed through a pair o' opposin' hole. Blimey! Gettin' t' rods through t' first hole was easy. Aye aye! Gettin' it through t' hole on t' other side required a commodity o' which I am chronically in short supply: patience. Ahoy! Then gettin' t' one through orthogonal t' t' first is even tougher since t' holes are at t' same level. I never would have thought I could get them that exact. Aye aye! Well, me bucko, blow me down! When t' two rods were in place, shiver me timbers, I made sure that t' same amount stuck out in each instance and then used some epoxy t' fix them into place within t' tube.

T' kit comes with a hefty lead slug t' be used as nose weight and move t' CG forward. Avast! Avast! Installation o' t' slug be simple. Some epoxy was slathered around t' top o' t' Apache tube and t' slug inserted. More epoxy was slathered on t' top o' t' slug and then t' Apache nose cone be seated. Begad! T' entire Apache assembly be then inverted t' allow things t' set up in place.

T' basis o' t' shock cord system be t' steel cable already installed. Aye aye! Arrr! T' this is added a long piece of bungee-like cord. Arrr! It was bent t' t' steel cable with a double sheet bend. At t' opposite end, arrr, a loop was tied about a foot back from t' bitter end. T' bitter end was then tied t' t' eye screw in t' transition.

For t' final step o' t' assembly, shiver me timbers, t' Apache base be glued t' t' transition. Avast! Although t' instructions called for epoxy, arrr, I used white glue since this did nay seem t' be a major failure point t' me.

Finishing:
T' first step in finishin' this beast was t' mix up some Elmer's Wood Filler and start fillin' in t' imperfections. These included t' grain on t' fins, on t' balsa, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and t' seams on t' wraps. I put it on rather thick and gave it about a week t' dry completely. Begad! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Then t' laborious sandin' process began.

T' nosecone and Apache wrap were nay too bad. Arrr! T' wrap still needed some more work but t' fairin' be better than it had been. Well, blow me down! T' Apache fins and transition were a bit more work t' sand. Ahoy! Aye aye! It was nay difficult but it be tedious. T' appearance be definitely improved but thar were still some pits in t' transition that I be nay happy with. Likewise, me hearties, t' Nike fins and wrap were nay difficult t' sand, arrr, me hearties, shiver me timbers, just tedious. Aye aye! I used a file and sandin' stick t' get right up next t' t' wrap. Aye aye! That helped but thar were still some pits t' take care o' on t' wrap seam.

For t' next round o' filling, shiver me timbers, I decided t' try some Squadron green putty instead. T' seam o' t' Apache wrap got a layer along its entire length but t' cone needed nothin' more. Aye aye! T' Apache fins also needed nothin' else but putty be used t' fill t' pits on t' transition. Begad! Finally, arrr, ya bilge rat, t' Nike wrap seam got a stream o' putty as well and the Nike fins needed none. Well, blow me down! After a day t' dry, ya bilge rat, I attacked t' putty with t' sandpaper. Well, me bucko, blow me down! It took care o' t' pits in the transition and nothin' further was needed there. Arrr! Well, arrr, blow me down! T' wrap seams on both t' Apache and t' Nike were another story and needed a bit more. Well, arrr, blow me down! I went back t' t' Elmer's Wood Filler this time, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and after it had been dried and sanded, ya bilge rat, I was satisfied enough t' go on.

After dustin' everythin' off, matey, me hearties, me hearties, t' Nike Apache was taken t' t' booth t' begin t' primin' process. I started out by sprayin' 2 sides with Kilz. Ya scallywag! A day later, t' rocket was rotated and I sprayed t' other two sides. T' Kilz dried for a couple o' days and then I took a closer look. T' rocket had developed a bad case o' the "fuzzies" especially where t' wraps had gotten sanded while removin' t' filler material. Avast, me proud beauty! I took it back to t' bench and sanded it smooth.

After dustin' things off, matey, it be back t' t' booth where t' real paintin' began. Begad! On examinin' t' directions, I saw that t' body o' t' Nike be supposed t' be white. Ya scallywag! Begad! This was in accordance with me "memory" o' t' Nike series. Begad! Begad! With that in mind, me hearties, arrr, I went ahead and sprayed on a layer o' white. Begad! What I had a question about, though, was the coloration o' t' Nike fins. Begad! I had imagined t' normal fluorescent scheme but they were nay mentioned in the instructions. Begad! T' black and white photos I had seen were unclear on t' matter and, for some reason, arrr, I thought that this rocket would be different. Avast! Arrr! So it is that I sent a message t' Cosmodrome askin' and he got back t' me quickly. Aye aye! It wasn't t' answer I expected though. He told me t' matter be unclear and sent me some links. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! Some versions did indeed have t' fluorescent red fins. Begad! T' one that captured me interest though, shiver me timbers, me hearties, had a dark red Nike body and fins. Arrr! I altered me plans then and there. Avast! It also had red Apache fins but o' a possible florescent cast. Begad! That's what I decided t' try and do. Begad! T' photo I liked can be seen here.

When t' white had dried, I took t' rocket back out and found that I had t' "fuzzies" again, me hearties, although nay as badly in t' same places as before. A little sandin' took care o' that and I began t' mask off t' upper body above t' transition t' protect it from t' red I was goin' t' use. Avast, me proud beauty! I chose "garnet red" from Rustoleum for t' Nike section. T' rocket be set in t' booth and given 3 coats. Blimey! Ya scallywag! T' next day t' maskin' was removed and I liked t' result. Aye aye! T' Nike section was then masked off and t' rocket was taken back t' t' booth. Begad! Begad! Two coats o' white were applied. Blimey! Examination showed that t' same fuzzies that had afflicted t' Nike had done so t' t' Apache as well, but to a lesser degree. They were sanded down with #400 sandpaper. Ya scallywag! Begad! T' rocket was then taken back t' t' booth for another coat o' white. Blimey! Well, blow me down!

T' rocket sat with t' white dryin' for a few days as I attended t' other issues and then t' maskin' tape was gotten out t' cover everythin' around t' base o' t' Apache except for t' fins. Well, blow me down! Blimey! It was then back t' t' booth again where fluorescent red was applied in very light coats buildin' up t' give t' red color. Aye aye! T' photos make it look much more red than it does in person. Ahoy! A few days later t' maskin' came off. Ya scallywag! You can definitely see t' difference between t' reds but its nay unpleasing. Well, blow me down! I be also thrilled that thar were no runs.

With t' paintin' done, I could turn me attention t' t' last item o' construction: t' launch lug. T' kit came with a pair o' tubular 1/4" lugs. Ya scallywag! I made t' decision early on that I wanted t' substitute a linear rail lug so t' originals were nay put in place. Arrr! T' linear lug would need, however, a spacer t' clear t' transition, just like t' tubular lugs would have needed. Ya scallywag! Aye aye! I traced t' outline o' t' lug on a scrap o' balsa and then used a razor knife to cut it out. Aye aye! I then held t' balsa spacer against t' lug and used sandpaper t' make t' outline conform better.

T' location on t' Nike BT chosen for t' lug had some o' t' paint scraped away and then a hole was punched through it t' make for a better epoxy bond. A few drops o' 15 minute epoxy were then mixed and spread on t' back of t' spacer and t' spacer was set in place on t' BT. Avast! Blimey! T' spacer was then clamped into place. Arrr! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! A couple o' days later I had a chance t' take t' clamps off. T' rail lug be then set on top o' t' spacer and t' screws were used t' mark t' balsa. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' lug be then removed and t' screws were turned through t' balsa and t' BT and then removed. Some epoxy was then mixed and brushed onto t' back o' t' lug and poked into t' screw holes. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' lug was then set in place and t' screws driven in.

T' decal work is seemingly simple on this one. Well, blow me down! There are 2 "United States" strips o' text. They are mounted on opposite sides o' t' Nike with one havin' t' text run up and t' other run down. Well, blow me down! These turned out t' be stickers instead o' decals but t' quality be good. Ahoy! I peeled t' back off, me hearties, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, set them in place and then burnished them. T' instructions made mention o' one more decal that went on t' Apache stage. Blimey! Begad! I have no idea what it is supposed to look like because I cannot find it. Blimey! Let me hasten t' add that this might be me fault and that o' me chaotic work area.

At this point I thought I was done but as I was lookin' things over, me hearties, I chanced t' look into t' body tube and saw a problem. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! T' screws from t' mountin' o' t' rail lug were pokin' through quite a ways. Begad! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! It was an invitation t' rip any chute that got packed in this rocket. Arrr! I started t' remedy this problem by takin' a file t' it and worryin' down the points. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! This went slowly and then I had a better idea. Aye aye! I took a scrap o' balsa and pressed it down over t' screw on t' inside o' t' tube. Ahoy! This took up some room. I then mixed some epoxy and used it t' hold t' balsa in place and round and smooth off what be left o' t' protrudin' screws. My reasonin' was that t' epoxy would help t' hold the screws it better and give a non-rippin' surface over which t' chute could move past.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight and Recovery:
T' day o' t' maiden flight o' me Nike Apache found me ready t' go and t' others in attendance eager t' see how it performed. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! I loaded it with a Roadrunner F60-4 and took it out t' t' pad. Begad! There it sat for a while as some low powered launches took place and I awaited me turn. Blimey! Liftoff, when it came, matey, surprised me. I did nay expect this rocket t' move as fast as it did but move it most certainly did. Avast! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! It be more like launchin' a light LPR. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' climb up was a good one. Aye aye! It was straight, did nay wobble at all, and looked quite impressive. Well, blow me down! T' motor selection seemed t' have been a good one. When t' pop o' ejection came, shiver me timbers, t' rocket could just barely be seen. We all saw t' laundry come out and then we all saw that thar be a problem.

T' chute be out but never really opened. Ahoy! Blimey! I was "treated" t' a terrible sight. T' Apache portion of t' rocket be doin' its best imitation o' a lawn dart. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! It was strugglin' t' aerodynamically make its way back t' earth as smartly as possible. Aye aye! Blimey! It was constrained in this endeavor by three things: 1) I'm sure t' unopened chute contributed a small but real amount o' drag; 2) t' Nike booster was actin' like a streamer in its own right and tryin' t' impede its own impendin' doom; and 3) I'm am sure that t' sound waves from me plaintive cries from t' ground slowed it a little bit as well. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! All o' this was t' no avail as it plunged downward. A video o' this sad event can be seen here.

An examination o' t' rocket, when I stopped crying, showed that t' damage be nay as bad as I had feared. The fins o' t' Nike booster need t' be reset and filleted but t' entire booster is in pretty good shape. Aye aye! Blimey! Even t' Apache came out better than expected. Arrr! Blimey! T' nose cone snapped but it is somethin' that is easily replaced. Begad! Blimey! A member o' me club offered t' turn a cone out o' PVC for me and I accepted his offer in t' hope that it will be a bit more durable.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
I was impressed by several things about this kit. It went together fairly easy for a scale project. Begad! Arrr! It looked good and it performed great. Avast, ya bilge rat, me proud beauty! T' blunders that occurred in construction were due t' me own inattention t' t' instructions. It looked great goin' up and even kind o' cool comin' down. I think that t' nose cone is a bit tender and that the instructions could use a slight upgrade, but t' former is a property o' t' material and Cosmodrome has informed me that t' latter will be addressed. Ahoy! Its a great kit.

Persons wishin' t' follow the exploits o' this rockets can do so here.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

T' followin' excerpt is from "Sport Rocketry". T' intention is t' allow guests t' get a basic feelin' about a kit. Begad! We strongly suggest that you get a copy o' t' referenced Sport Rocketry and read t' entire article. Arrr! Inside you will find many helpful hints in construction as well as other useful information. For more information, use t' two links above.

"The Cosmodrome 1:6-scale Nike-Apache is one beefy kit . . ."
"Thick-wall tubing, plywood fins and bulkheads, ya bilge rat, me hearties, and a stainless steel shock cord anchor cable . . Arrr! ."
"Expect t' spend a lot o' time on step 4 . Arrr! . Ahoy! . Begad! fins get sanded t' a diamond cross-section."
"T' nose cone is a long, narrow balsa affair with space in t' bottom for a large lead nose weight."
"Through-the-wall fin attachment . Ya scallywag! Begad! . Begad! ."
"Fin placement templates are provided for both stages."
"Plastruct-type wires are provided t' simulate antennas on t' upper stage."
"Applyin' t' self-adhesive decals was no trouble at all."
"T' kit was supplied with a 28" purple parachute."
"I found t' quick link provided in t' kit t' be very helpful . Well, blow me down! Blimey! . Arrr! ."
"T' model made its maiden flight . Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! . Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! . Avast! Well, blow me down! on an AeroTech F50-6FWL . Blimey! . ."
"T' bird landed on soft, sandy ground, but t' leadin' 1-1/2" o' the balsa nose cone was still splintered upon impact."

T' entire article gives t' impression that this is a nice kit t' experience more detailed and challengin' building.