Brief:
O' t' Consmodrome line, arrr, t' 2 that have t' most appeal t' me are t' Vostok and t' Nike Apache. Ahoy! T' Vostok has been sittin' in me pile almost since t' beginnin' o' me return t' rocketry intimidatin' me. T' Nike Apache is a recent acquisition and does nay seem nearly so intimidating. Arrr! I decided t' give it a try.

Construction:
Construction started out by locatin' t' 29mm motor tube and runnin' a line down its length. Begad! Begad! An Estes angle tool was used t' do this. Begad! Tick marks were then placed 1/2" from either end along t' line.

T' kit came with 2 plywood centerin' rings. Ahoy! I had t' locate t' one with two notches, as opposed t' t' single notch ring, and t' steel recovery harness. Blimey! T' loop in t' steel cable was fitted through t' 2 notches in the centerin' rin' and then slipped into place on t' motor mount at one o' t' tick marks. T' rin' was then epoxied into place.

T' other centerin' rin' had only a larger, shiver me timbers, single notch in it. Arrr! Blimey! It was placed at t' opposite end o' t' motor tube with t' notch lined up over t' line and epoxied into place, me hearties, makin' sure that no epoxy obstructed t' hole formed by t' notch.

T' instructions indicated that I be t' cut 2 pieces o' cardstock, one was a strip 1.5" x 1/8" and the other was 1/2" x 1/8". Well, blow me down! A piece o' threaded rod was then fed through t' hole on t' centerin' rin' and the tube was marked at t' point where 3/4" protruded from t' end. Arrr! Aye aye! It took a while for me t' understand t' purpose o' t' strips I had cut. Ahoy! Well, arrr, blow me down! T' instructions said t' place them betwixt t' threaded rod and t' motor tube. Ahoy! They did not indicate a purpose or an orientation. Well, blow me down! After a while, I realized that t' longer strip terminated at t' mark I had made for t' rod and deduced, correctly I hope, ya bilge rat, matey, ya bilge rat, that they are just t' give a slight angle t' t' rod which is used for motor retention. I tacked t' long strip in place and then t' shorter one on top o' it. Aye aye! T' rod be then inserted t' the mark and epoxied into place, arrr, takin' care nay t' let epoxy onto t' lower threads.

T' kit came with 4 plywood fins for t' Nike portion o' t' stack. Ya scallywag! T' instructions said t' sand them down t' a knife edge on t' leadin' and trailin' edges. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! I marked t' centerline, matey, got out a sandin' block, sanded a bit and then reconsidered. There has t' be a "good" way t' do this right. Well, blow me down! After hearin' back from Cosmodrome on TRF, ya bilge rat, arrr, me bucko, I adopted t' manufacturer's recommended practice for sandin' in t' correct profile t' t' fins. Arrr! I applied a wide strip o' maskin' tape along t' line I had marked on t' side opposite t' which I wanted t' sand. I then put two more strips o' narrower tape right on top o' it and did t' same t' t' reverse side. Ya scallywag! A sandin' block be then repeated drawn along t' side t' be sanded gradually removin' material. Aye aye! When t' sandpaper had eaten through t' top two pieces o' tape, me hearties, the tape be replaced and t' process continued. I found that for each surface o' each side o' each fin, arrr, arrr, I would have to replace t' tape about 4 times in order t' achieve t' "knife edge". Blimey! Be advised that I am speakin' in terms o' butter knives, I be afraid o' ruinin' t' fins by sandin' anymore. Avast, me proud beauty! I got 1 fin done per day because it does take time and, frankly, it was nay an enjoyable process for me. Begad! That bein' said, me hearties, it was effective and I have no complaints. I think t' result will be worth it.

With three fins done and a fourth one waitin' t' be done, I stared dejectedly at me dwindlin' supply o' course sandpaper and looked wistfully towards me belt sander. Against me better judgment, ya bilge rat, me hearties, I decided t' give it a try. Ahoy! I masked off t' high areas as before, flipped t' switch and hoped that I was nay destroyin' t' fin. Aye aye! Ahoy! It actually went easier and slower than I expected with slow bein' t' key word. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I was able t' give t' fin an acceptable profile and avoid a trip t' t' hardware store.

T' last page o' t' instructions came with a fin markin' guide o' t' type where you set t' rocket on the circle and make your marks. I generally prefer t' wraparound type but don't knock any points for this type. Blimey! Blimey! This is especially with so since, shiver me timbers, matey, for me, ya bilge rat, me hearties, me hearties, t' butt types are nay as difficult t' use with t' larger tubes. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! It also helps with both types when t' sizes are dead on and this one was.

T' Nike body tube was placed on t' template and t' lines for t' 4 fins and t' lug were transferred. Arrr! An angle was then used t' lengthen t' lines with t' lug line runnin' t' length o' t' tube. Begad! Each o' the fin lines be marked a specified distance from t' back o' t' tube; I think it was an inch but I do nay remember. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! The fins were numbered in pencil with t' characters for one through four since I be nay certain that they were strictly interchangeable in terms o' t' sanded profiles. T' fin lines were also so marked. Begad! T' root edges o' t' fins were then aligned with their respective fin lines havin' their aft edges along t' previously mentioned marks and were then held in place as a pencil be used t' draw their outlines. Well, blow me down! A razor knife was then used t' cut out t' marked lines and allow t' fins t' slide in.

T' next step be t' wrap t' aft o' t' body tube with Saran Wrap. Avast, me proud beauty! This is t' protect it from t' moisture that is soon t' come. Ya scallywag! When t' wrap was in place, I retrieved t' provided piece o' cardstock and spritzed with water from a spay bottle I swiped from you-know-who's laundry department. Blimey! T' purpose o' this is t' allow t' cardstock t' more easily conform t' t' body. Blimey! I wrapped t' stock around t' body and tied it into place t' dry with some surplus shroud line. Begad! T' tube and wrap were then set aside t' dry. Begad! A day later, I removed t' strin' holdin' t' wrap in place and, sure enough, me hearties, it had been re-molded into approximately t' curvature o' t' Nike body tube. Begad! Begad! I did a little trimmin' with a razor knife t' remove a tiny bit o' material from one end t' make a tight closure and then used some sandpaper to fair up t' edge.

Some slow cure epoxy (30 minute) was mixed because I perceive it t' be a thinner fluid and was then brushed onto t' inside o' t' wrap. Blimey! T' wrap was slid into place flush with t' aft end o' t' BT and with t' seam along the launch lug line. Well, blow me down! Begad! Some maskin' tape be used t' hold it in place as it dried.

I worked on some other things and about an hour later removed t' tape. T' next task be t' duplicate t' fin slots from t' BT on t' wrap. After several trial and error attempts, I decided that t' easiest thin' t' do was to make a slit down t' center and then shave away from t' outside while peerin' down t' interior o' t' tube. I kept whittlin' away until I test fit each o' t' numbered fins successfully. Aye aye! Avast!

A long swab be used t' make a rin' o' epoxy around t' interior o' t' BT just forward o' t' fin slots and the motor mount be shoved part way in. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! When t' forward rin' was in, I paused and swabbed another rin' o' epoxy around the after end. Aye aye! Begad! T' mount was then pushed into place with t' retainin' bolt aligned with t' seam on t' lower wrap and the aft centerin' rin' flush with t' end o' t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! T' tube was set upright for a while so t' epoxy would flow back towards t' rings as it set. Begad! Arrr! After 10 minutes, I mixed some more epoxy and brushed it around t' seam on t' after ring and put it aside t' set up.

Next, matey, I skipped ahead a few steps and pulled out t' Apache fins. Ahoy! These again were made of plywood and again needed t' have a profile added. Ya scallywag! I marked off an 1/8 inch on each leadin' edge, drew a line and then marked t' line with a strip o' maskin' tape. Since I had developed a little confidence with t' best sander on the last o' t' Nike fins, matey, I decided t' use it for t' Apache fins as well. Avast! Aye aye! I took it slow and, while t' bevels are not perfect, they are good by me own admittedly marginal standards.

T' first o' t' Nike fins t' be installed was number 4. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I test fit it once again and then applied some epoxy to t' root edge. T' fin be slipped into its slot and pressed into place checkin' for straightness. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! A bit o' epoxy was t' filleted along each side o' t' BT with me finger and allowed t' set up.

Fin number 3 be installed just as number 4 was except t' slot be a bit looser and I needed some tape t' hold things in place as t' epoxy cured. Begad! Blimey! Further fin installation was interrupted by work concerns and I set things aside to dry for t' night.

When I got back t' t' Nike Apache, t' last two fins were installed like t' first two without any problems.

One o' t' things that I liked about this kit was t' way t' screw eye is mounted t' the transition. A natural worry with any rocket, shiver me timbers, especially a heavier one, ya bilge rat, me hearties, be t' screw strippin' out at ejection even when reinforced by epoxy. Blimey! This kit goes a long way in lessenin' that worry with its approach. Aye aye! Arrr! T' screw eye was screwed into a plastic anchor screw with large, aggressive threads and then backed out. A drop o' epoxy was put into t' hole o' the anchor and t' screw eye re-inserted. Ahoy! T' process was then repeated and t' anchor was screwed into t' balsa transition, backed out, t' hole filled with epoxy, me hearties, and re-inserted. Begad! Epoxy was used t' fill around t' screw as well. On t' opposite end o' t' transition, a piece o' wooden dowel be epoxied into t' cavity t' strengthen a potential failure point.

T' base o' t' Apache portion o' t' rocket is a built up affair and I have t' admit that I almost ruined it. T' kit came with a short length o' 29mm motor tube which serves as t' base and what amounts t' a 29mm thrust ring. There be also a coupler tube t' fit within t' motor tube. Begad! Blimey! T' first thin' I was instructed t' do be t' mark the longer o' t' two interior tubes at 1/4" and then epoxy it into one end o' t' motor tube leavin' 1/4" hangin' out. This be easily done but t' coupler would nay fit into t' motor tube so I had t' sand it down some, removin' me marks. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It was easily marked again and then I decided t' use white glue instead o' epoxy. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Blimey! It be tight and I did nay think it was a realistic failure point.

T' next step was simple enough. T' thrust rin' be glued in place at t' opposite end o' t' motor tube. Again, white glue was used. Aye aye! Blimey! T' interior joints at both ends were then filleted with white glue and it be set aside t' dry for a short while.

I took a look at t' Apache nose cone while t' base assembly was settin' up. Ya scallywag! Arrr! It be reasonably clear balsa with just a touch o' roughness on one side. Well, blow me down! I decided t' harden it some by dousin' it with some thin CA.

This next part is where things became dicey because I misunderstood t' instructions. T' instructions were correct but I be lettin' a single word cause me t' misinterpret them and even ignore (subconsciously) other verbiage that should have set me straight. Aye aye! I was supposed t' sand a bevel into t' portion o' t' coupler tube that extended from t' motor mount. It be supposed t' transition from its natural diameter t' t' diameter o' t' main Apache tube. Essentially, matey, shiver me timbers, it be t' taper t' 0". Blimey! That part I got and most o' t' taperin' be done with a sandin' stick. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! It was t' next instruction that got me. Ahoy! I interpreted it t' mean that t' Apache tube would be butted up against t' freshly tapered coupler and epoxied into place with a simple butt joint restin' upon a "surface" that had just been sanded from a surface into an edge. Aye aye! I just knew it was goin' t' be t' primary failure mode o' each and every flight if t' rocket even made it t' t' field without breakin' at that point. Blimey! I be already considerin' rollin' me own coupler t' fit into both t' original coupler tube and t' body tube so that I would have more gluin' surface and somethin' t' try and hold things straight. Begad! As stupid as this sounds, I was convinced that was what I be supposed to do. Avast! Thankfully, an uncommon bout o' sense had me read t' instructions again and t' word that had thrown me was thrown up in relief.

T' aft end o' t' apache tube was t' be butted even with t' aft end o' t' base.

"Butt" had mislead me into ignorin' t' stupidity I was displaying. Ahoy! Blimey! T' Apache tube fit through t' sanded coupler, through t' motor mount, ya bilge rat, and through t' thrust ring. Ya scallywag! Begad! Blimey! It should have plenty o' support. I again used white glue instead o' epoxy.

With t' Apache tube secured in t' Apache base, me hearties, arrr, I moved t' base over t' t' fin markin' guide for t' Apache and transferred t' marks. Doin' it with t' smaller tube made me wish again for t' wraparound type but t' job got done. Begad! An Estes angle tool be used t' run t' 4 lines t' length o' t' base and one o' t' lines was run t' length of t' entire Apache tube. Each o' t' lines was marked off 1/4" from t' aft end and then t' fins and lines were numbered in t' same manner as t' Nike fins and slots were cut.

Mountin' o' t' Apache fins be for some reason more difficult than t' mountin' o' t' Nike fins. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down! This is nay to say that it be really hard, they just did nay go as easily. Begad! T' first fin be re-checked t' make sure it fit and then epoxy was placed in t' slot and along t' root edge. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' fin was then pressed into place and held with tape. Begad! The second fin also went on without any problem. T' third fin was where it stopped goin' so well. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! It mounted easy enough and I kept eyeballin' alignment and finally realized that t' 1st and 3rd did nay line up as well as they should. Begad! I don't blame anybody for that except me but it is a reason I prefer t' wraparound guides t' t' butt end ones. Fortunately, shiver me timbers, t' final fin was OK. All were filleted with epoxy.

You may recall that early on in t' buildin' o' t' motor mount, t' instructions called for t' use o' some cardstock t' wedge betwixt t' retainin' screw and t' tube. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! I recalled it as well as I got t' next step and realized that I had cut t' strips from t' wrong piece o' cardstock. T' piece I had cut be supposed t' be used as t' forward wrap on t' Apache. Blimey! Ya scallywag! Fortunately, t' wrap was a little bit big and needed t' be cut down a bit. That helped somewhat but thar would still be an ugly gap in one part o' t' seam. Aye aye! Aye aye! It was somethin' that I would have t' fix with filler later on.

I wrapped t' forward part o' t' Apache tube with Saran Wrap t' protect it from moisture and t' sprayed the Apache wrap with water t' make it more pliable. Avast, me proud beauty! It be placed around t' tube, tied into place, and allowed t' dry out overnight. Begad! Ahoy! T' next day it had taken on its new shape. Epoxy be then brushed onto t' inner surface o' t' wrap and it be applied t' t' forward end o' t' Apache. Avast, me proud beauty! I tried t' line t' seam up with t' long line which had been run the length o' t' tube, shiver me timbers, however, arrr, I must have let it shift without noticin' while gettin' things aligned. T' wrap was held in place with tape as t' epoxy set up.

T' wrapped, matey, forward end o' t' Apache was pressed against t' tube markin' guide and t' lines were transferred. A mark was then made on each o' t' lines a specified distance from t' forward end. If me memory serves, each was 5-13/64". Ahoy! These marks were t' locate t' penetrations for t' antennae.

T' penetrations were supposed t' be made with a drill. Avast! T' me horror, I realized that I had left me drill elsewhere doin' some actual maintenance t' t' house and that I was probably goin' t' have t' wait t' work further. Thinkin' about it though, t' bit I needed be small and t' materials t' be drilled through were nay tough. Begad! Avast! On a lark, I tried just twirlin' t' bit betwixt me fingers. Avast, me proud beauty! Ya scallywag! It worked!

Surprisingly, t' next step was one o' t' toughest for me. Ahoy! Ahoy! T' antennae are formed by a pair o' styrene rods Each is t' be pushed through a pair o' opposin' hole. Begad! Gettin' t' rods through t' first hole was easy. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Gettin' it through t' hole on t' other side required a commodity o' which I am chronically in short supply: patience. Avast, me proud beauty! Then gettin' t' one through orthogonal t' t' first is even tougher since t' holes are at t' same level. Ya scallywag! I never would have thought I could get them that exact. When t' two rods were in place, I made sure that t' same amount stuck out in each instance and then used some epoxy t' fix them into place within t' tube.

T' kit comes with a hefty lead slug t' be used as nose weight and move t' CG forward. Begad! Blimey! Installation o' t' slug was simple. Aye aye! Blimey! Some epoxy was slathered around t' top o' t' Apache tube and t' slug inserted. More epoxy be slathered on t' top o' t' slug and then t' Apache nose cone was seated. T' entire Apache assembly was then inverted t' allow things t' set up in place.

T' basis o' t' shock cord system be t' steel cable already installed. Arrr! T' this is added a long piece of bungee-like cord. Arrr! Ahoy! It be bent t' t' steel cable with a double sheet bend. Well, blow me down! At t' opposite end, a loop be tied about a foot back from t' bitter end. Ahoy! T' bitter end was then tied t' t' eye screw in t' transition.

For t' final step o' t' assembly, ya bilge rat, t' Apache base was glued t' t' transition. Although t' instructions called for epoxy, I used white glue since this did nay seem t' be a major failure point t' me.

Finishing:
T' first step in finishin' this beast was t' mix up some Elmer's Wood Filler and start fillin' in t' imperfections. These included t' grain on t' fins, on t' balsa, and t' seams on t' wraps. Well, blow me down! I put it on rather thick and gave it about a week t' dry completely. Then t' laborious sandin' process began.

T' nosecone and Apache wrap were nay too bad. Avast! T' wrap still needed some more work but t' fairin' was better than it had been. T' Apache fins and transition were a bit more work t' sand. Avast! Ya scallywag! It was nay difficult but it was tedious. T' appearance was definitely improved but thar were still some pits in t' transition that I be nay happy with. Likewise, me bucko, t' Nike fins and wrap were nay difficult t' sand, just tedious. I used a file and sandin' stick t' get right up next t' t' wrap. That helped but thar were still some pits t' take care o' on t' wrap seam.

For t' next round o' filling, shiver me timbers, matey, I decided t' try some Squadron green putty instead. Begad! T' seam o' t' Apache wrap got a layer along its entire length but t' cone needed nothin' more. Ahoy! Blimey! T' Apache fins also needed nothin' else but putty be used t' fill t' pits on t' transition. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! Finally, t' Nike wrap seam got a stream o' putty as well and the Nike fins needed none. Avast! Avast! After a day t' dry, shiver me timbers, I attacked t' putty with t' sandpaper. It took care o' t' pits in the transition and nothin' further be needed there. Well, blow me down! T' wrap seams on both t' Apache and t' Nike were another story and needed a bit more. Avast, me proud beauty! I went back t' t' Elmer's Wood Filler this time, and after it had been dried and sanded, I was satisfied enough t' go on.

After dustin' everythin' off, me hearties, t' Nike Apache be taken t' t' booth t' begin t' primin' process. Begad! Begad! Blimey! I started out by sprayin' 2 sides with Kilz. Avast, me proud beauty! A day later, me hearties, me hearties, t' rocket be rotated and I sprayed t' other two sides. Begad! T' Kilz dried for a couple o' days and then I took a closer look. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Blimey! T' rocket had developed a bad case o' the "fuzzies" especially where t' wraps had gotten sanded while removin' t' filler material. I took it back to t' bench and sanded it smooth.

After dustin' things off, ya bilge rat, it was back t' t' booth where t' real paintin' began. Arrr! On examinin' t' directions, I saw that t' body o' t' Nike was supposed t' be white. Begad! Ahoy! This be in accordance with me "memory" o' t' Nike series. Arrr! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! With that in mind, arrr, I went ahead and sprayed on a layer o' white. What I had a question about, me bucko, though, was the coloration o' t' Nike fins. Ya scallywag! I had imagined t' normal fluorescent scheme but they were nay mentioned in the instructions. Blimey! Arrr! T' black and white photos I had seen were unclear on t' matter and, for some reason, me bucko, I thought that this rocket would be different. So it is that I sent a message t' Cosmodrome askin' and he got back t' me quickly. Ahoy! It wasn't t' answer I expected though. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! He told me t' matter be unclear and sent me some links. Some versions did indeed have t' fluorescent red fins. Ahoy! T' one that captured me interest though, me hearties, had a dark red Nike body and fins. Aye aye! I altered me plans then and there. Begad! Ahoy! It also had red Apache fins but o' a possible florescent cast. That's what I decided t' try and do. Blimey! T' photo I liked can be seen here.

When t' white had dried, I took t' rocket back out and found that I had t' "fuzzies" again, although nay as badly in t' same places as before. A little sandin' took care o' that and I began t' mask off t' upper body above t' transition t' protect it from t' red I be goin' t' use. Ya scallywag! Begad! I chose "garnet red" from Rustoleum for t' Nike section. T' rocket be set in t' booth and given 3 coats. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! T' next day t' maskin' was removed and I liked t' result. T' Nike section was then masked off and t' rocket be taken back t' t' booth. Two coats o' white were applied. Begad! Examination showed that t' same fuzzies that had afflicted t' Nike had done so t' t' Apache as well, me hearties, matey, but to a lesser degree. Begad! Avast! They were sanded down with #400 sandpaper. Aye aye! T' rocket was then taken back t' t' booth for another coat o' white. Well, blow me down!

T' rocket sat with t' white dryin' for a few days as I attended t' other issues and then t' maskin' tape was gotten out t' cover everythin' around t' base o' t' Apache except for t' fins. It was then back t' t' booth again where fluorescent red was applied in very light coats buildin' up t' give t' red color. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! T' photos make it look much more red than it does in person. A few days later t' maskin' came off. You can definitely see t' difference between t' reds but its nay unpleasing. Avast! I was also thrilled that thar were no runs.

With t' paintin' done, ya bilge rat, I could turn me attention t' t' last item o' construction: t' launch lug. Ya scallywag! T' kit came with a pair o' tubular 1/4" lugs. I made t' decision early on that I wanted t' substitute a linear rail lug so t' originals were nay put in place. Ya scallywag! T' linear lug would need, however, a spacer t' clear t' transition, me hearties, just like t' tubular lugs would have needed. I traced t' outline o' t' lug on a scrap o' balsa and then used a razor knife to cut it out. Begad! I then held t' balsa spacer against t' lug and used sandpaper t' make t' outline conform better.

T' location on t' Nike BT chosen for t' lug had some o' t' paint scraped away and then a hole was punched through it t' make for a better epoxy bond. Arrr! Blimey! A few drops o' 15 minute epoxy were then mixed and spread on t' back of t' spacer and t' spacer be set in place on t' BT. Blimey! Blimey! T' spacer was then clamped into place. Aye aye! Blimey! A couple o' days later I had a chance t' take t' clamps off. T' rail lug was then set on top o' t' spacer and t' screws were used t' mark t' balsa. T' lug was then removed and t' screws were turned through t' balsa and t' BT and then removed. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! Some epoxy was then mixed and brushed onto t' back o' t' lug and poked into t' screw holes. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! T' lug was then set in place and t' screws driven in.

T' decal work is seemingly simple on this one. Avast! There are 2 "United States" strips o' text. Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! They are mounted on opposite sides o' t' Nike with one havin' t' text run up and t' other run down. These turned out t' be stickers instead o' decals but t' quality be good. Avast! Ahoy! I peeled t' back off, set them in place and then burnished them. T' instructions made mention o' one more decal that went on t' Apache stage. Ahoy! I have no idea what it is supposed to look like because I cannot find it. Let me hasten t' add that this might be me fault and that o' me chaotic work area.

At this point I thought I be done but as I was lookin' things over, I chanced t' look into t' body tube and saw a problem. T' screws from t' mountin' o' t' rail lug were pokin' through quite a ways. Blimey! It be an invitation t' rip any chute that got packed in this rocket. Begad! Begad! Blimey! I started t' remedy this problem by takin' a file t' it and worryin' down the points. Begad! This went slowly and then I had a better idea. Begad! I took a scrap o' balsa and pressed it down over t' screw on t' inside o' t' tube. Aye aye! Well, me bucko, blow me down! Blimey! This took up some room. Arrr! Blimey! I then mixed some epoxy and used it t' hold t' balsa in place and round and smooth off what be left o' t' protrudin' screws. Avast, me proud beauty! My reasonin' be that t' epoxy would help t' hold the screws it better and give a non-rippin' surface over which t' chute could move past.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight and Recovery:
T' day o' t' maiden flight o' me Nike Apache found me ready t' go and t' others in attendance eager t' see how it performed. Aye aye! I loaded it with a Roadrunner F60-4 and took it out t' t' pad. Aye aye! There it sat for a while as some low powered launches took place and I awaited me turn. Aye aye! Liftoff, when it came, shiver me timbers, surprised me. I did nay expect this rocket t' move as fast as it did but move it most certainly did. Avast, me proud beauty! It was more like launchin' a light LPR. Ya scallywag! T' climb up be a good one. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! It was straight, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, did nay wobble at all, and looked quite impressive. Aye aye! T' motor selection seemed t' have been a good one. When t' pop o' ejection came, t' rocket could just barely be seen. Aye aye! Aye aye! We all saw t' laundry come out and then we all saw that thar be a problem.

T' chute be out but never really opened. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! I was "treated" t' a terrible sight. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' Apache portion of t' rocket was doin' its best imitation o' a lawn dart. It be strugglin' t' aerodynamically make its way back t' earth as smartly as possible. It was constrained in this endeavor by three things: 1) I'm sure t' unopened chute contributed a small but real amount o' drag; 2) t' Nike booster was actin' like a streamer in its own right and tryin' t' impede its own impendin' doom; and 3) I'm am sure that t' sound waves from me plaintive cries from t' ground slowed it a little bit as well. Ahoy! Blimey! All o' this was t' no avail as it plunged downward. A video o' this sad event can be seen here.

An examination o' t' rocket, when I stopped crying, shiver me timbers, showed that t' damage was nay as bad as I had feared. Arrr! The fins o' t' Nike booster need t' be reset and filleted but t' entire booster is in pretty good shape. Avast, me proud beauty! Even t' Apache came out better than expected. Avast! Ya scallywag! T' nose cone snapped but it is somethin' that is easily replaced. Aye aye! A member o' me club offered t' turn a cone out o' PVC for me and I accepted his offer in t' hope that it will be a bit more durable.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
I was impressed by several things about this kit. Ahoy! Well, matey, blow me down! It went together fairly easy for a scale project. Arrr! Aye aye! It looked good and it performed great. Begad! T' blunders that occurred in construction were due t' me own inattention t' t' instructions. It looked great goin' up and even kind o' cool comin' down. Begad! I think that t' nose cone is a bit tender and that the instructions could use a slight upgrade, but t' former is a property o' t' material and Cosmodrome has informed me that t' latter will be addressed. Ahoy! Its a great kit.

Persons wishin' t' follow the exploits o' this rockets can do so here.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5

T' followin' excerpt is from "Sport Rocketry". Avast! Begad! T' intention is t' allow guests t' get a basic feelin' about a kit. We strongly suggest that you get a copy o' t' referenced Sport Rocketry and read t' entire article. Arrr! Arrr! Inside you will find many helpful hints in construction as well as other useful information. Ahoy! Blimey! For more information, ya bilge rat, me bucko, use t' two links above.

"The Cosmodrome 1:6-scale Nike-Apache is one beefy kit . Avast! Blimey! . ."
"Thick-wall tubing, me hearties, plywood fins and bulkheads, matey, ya bilge rat, and a stainless steel shock cord anchor cable . . Begad! ."
"Expect t' spend a lot o' time on step 4 . Aye aye! . Arrr! Well, arrr, blow me down! . Arrr! fins get sanded t' a diamond cross-section."
"T' nose cone is a long, matey, narrow balsa affair with space in t' bottom for a large lead nose weight."
"Through-the-wall fin attachment . Aye aye! . ."
"Fin placement templates are provided for both stages."
"Plastruct-type wires are provided t' simulate antennas on t' upper stage."
"Applyin' t' self-adhesive decals be no trouble at all."
"T' kit be supplied with a 28" purple parachute."
"I found t' quick link provided in t' kit t' be very helpful . Ya scallywag! . Blimey! ."
"T' model made its maiden flight . . Aye aye! Arrr! . Aye aye! on an AeroTech F50-6FWL . Ahoy! . ."
"T' bird landed on soft, sandy ground, but t' leadin' 1-1/2" o' the balsa nose cone was still splintered upon impact."

T' entire article gives t' impression that this is a nice kit t' experience more detailed and challengin' building.