Construction

I decided nay t' use t' stock Kwik-switch motor mount and install a longer 54mm motor tube.  I ordered a new tube from PML along with a third centerin' ring.  I cut t' new motor tube t' length, shiver me timbers, then epoxied t' forward and middle centerin' rings in place.  I mounted a U-bolt t' t' forward centerin' rin' for t' recovery harness attachment point.  I also epoxied a small section o' plywood t' t' forward centerin' rin' as reinforcement for t' rail button attachment.  I measured t' reinforcement location, ya bilge rat, matey, marked t' booster section, temporarily installed t' motor tube, me bucko, and drilled through t' body tube and into t' centerin' ring.  Perfect! 

After roughin' up the t' appropriate area inside o' t' booster section, shiver me timbers, I epoxied t' motor tube in place - usin' t' rail button hole for alignment.  T' trick be t' make sure I'd left enough o' t' motor tube exposed at t' bottom t' be able t' attach t' Aeropack retainer base later.  Note - t' aft centerin' rin' won't get installed until t' fins are attached.

Once t' motor tube was in place, I also applied an epoxy fillet inside at t' forward centerin' rin' and booster section joint.  Next, I numbered all t' fins and slots and test fit each fin, me hearties, sandin' t' slots slightly if needed.  I partly inserted t' aft centerin' rin' t' ensure t' motor tube was centered in t' booster section befire I tacked each fin in place with a small amount o' epoxy.  I removed t' aft centerin' ring. 

Now it's time for fin fillets.  I taped off t' fillets on both t' fins and booster section and roughed up t' areas with sandpaper.  I used West Systems 406 filler with epoxy t' apply t' fillets, smoothin' them with a section o' dowel.  I removed t' tape before t' epoxy hardened.  I also used epoxy t' fill any small gaps in t' fin slots - this is critical for t' next step!

Foam!  I decided t' use PML's two-part expandin' foam t' fill t' fin can and provide internal reinforcement.  After makin' sure all holes and gaps had been filled, I poured t' foam in 3 batches.  Once t' foam had cured for a couple o' days, I trimmed t' foam usin' a hobby knife so it be flush with t' trailin' edge o' t' fins.  I attached t' aft centerin' rin' with epoxy, makin' sure t' line up t' rail button hole with t' reinforcement section I'd attached.  I applied an epoxy fillet at t' centerin' ring/airframe joint prior t' attachin' t' motor retainer (usin' JB Weld).

Time t' build t' avionics bay.  I used t' kit tube coupler and reinforced it with sections o' LOC stiffy tube.  I had t' peel several layers from t' stiffy tube t' get it t' fit into t' PML coupler.  I left enough room at either end t' allow coupler bulk plates t' rest flush with t' end o' t' coupler.  I sanded t' lower inside o' t' payload section and epoxied t' coupler assembly in place - I wiped out any oozin' epoxy.

As noted in t' components section, matey, I ordered two coupler bulk plates in addition t' one extra bulk plate.  I stacked and epoxied one bulk plate t' one coupler bulk plate t' form t' end caps for t' avionics bay.  I mounted a U-bolt and terminal block on each end cap.  I stacked both end caps and drilled two holes for t' all thread.  On t' upper end cap, ya bilge rat, matey, I installed t' all thread and attached with bolts and washers.  I slid t' upper end cap assembly into t' top o' t' payload section and attached t' lower end cap over t' protrudin' all thread and fastened it with washers and win' nuts.  I then marked t' all thread and cut it t' length with a razor saw.  I used a file t' clean up t' sharp edges and ran t' win' nuts over t' cuts a couple times t' make sure they worked smoothly.

I measured and cut t' altimeter sled from a piece o' G-10.  I epoxied 1/4" launch lugs t' fit over t' all thread sections.  I then measured and drilled t' mountin' holes for t' altimeter, shiver me timbers, battery mount, me bucko, and magnetic switch.  I also drilled holes next t' t' battery mount t' allow for a zip tie t' be used t' secure t' battery.  I installed t' battery mount and secured it with small nuts and bolts.  I installed t' mountin' hardware for both t' altimeter and t' magnetic switch.  I then connected t' wirin' from t' battery t' t' switch and altimeter.

For t' ejection charge wiring, I drilled small holes in t' end caps and installed wirin' sections from t' altimeter wirin' kit.  I left off t' detachable connector for t' main charge since that end cap is fixed.  I connected t' wire directly from t' main terminal block t' t' main connection on t' altimeter.  I connected t' detachable wire section halves for t' drogue t' t' altimeter and end caps.  I used a small amount o' epoxy t' seal t' holes in t' end caps.  After installin' a battery, arrr, I be able t' test t' altimeter.  I be able t' turn t' altimeter on and off by swipin' t' magnet by t' appropriate location on t' payload tube.  I drilled t' altimeter staic ports - 4 evenly space holes around t' payload section.  I connected christmas tree lights t' t' main and drogue terminals and validated connectivity with t' altimeter.  With t' avionics bay sealed, shiver me timbers, I be able t' draw a vacuum on t' bay and watched t' lights "fire" - first t' drogue then t' main.

T' nose cone is relatively simple compared t' t' rest o' t' rocket.  I drilled a hole in t' base t' allow t' eyebolt t' just fit through.  I drilled a hole in t' nose cone shoulder large enough t' slip a nut in.  T' next part is a bit tricky - I be able t' get t' nut on t' eyebolt and tightened it down snugly.  I poured a small amount o' epoxy inside t' shoulder hole t' secure t' nut.  I put t' nose cone on t' payload section, t' drilled a hole for t' first shear pin.  Once this pin be installed, me hearties, matey, I marked, matey, ya bilge rat, drilled, shiver me timbers, and installed two more pins.