Apogee Components Heli-Roc

Apogee Components - Heli-Roc {Kit}

Contributed by Alan Rognlie

Manufacturer: Apogee Components
(Contributed - by Alan Rognlie) 

[Rocket Pic]I purchased this kit in t' summer o' 1997, intendin' to build it for t' C HD (Helicopter Duration) event at MWRC-97. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Unfortunately, this model is designed for 10.5mm or 13mm motors, me hearties, so it wasn't appropriate at the time and I set it aside. Avast! Blimey! We're holdin' a B HD event at 14AL-98 and Apogee makes 10.5mm B motors, matey, ya bilge rat, me hearties, so I decided t' put this together t' have a reasonably competitive entry. Aye aye! I'll use me converted Turbo-Copter for a back-up, me hearties, me hearties, if needed. I was initially afraid o' how complex t' model might be, but I be very pleasantly surprised by how smartly and easily t' kit went together. I started workin' on t' kit on a Sunday evenin' and, ya bilge rat, me bucko, me bucko, even with t' limited time I had available t' work on it, I was done by t' followin' Friday. Begad! Blimey! This is a very good introduction t' competition Helicopter recovery models. Begad! Blimey! Blimey! I'm looking forward t' t' AL14-98 competition. 

Construction 

26 April, 1998 Started construction - T' first evening, I built the motor mount, cut t' ejection bypass ports in t' body tube, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, matey, sanded t' rotor blades and fins, me bucko, and glued on t' fins, nose cone and BT reinforcements. Ya scallywag! Arrr! I also trimmed t' (Klett?) blade hinges and attached them t' t' rotor blades. 

27 April, 1998 Fillets - This evenin' I did fillets for t' fins and BT reinforcements before I went off t' Chorus rehearsal. 

28 April, 1998 Attached rotor blades - Usin' thick CA, me bucko, me bucko, I tacked down the hinge ends o' t' rotor blades. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I used t' kit supplied strin' as whipping over t' hinges and thin CA t' set things solid. Begad! I cut three pieces off the supplied music wire and bent them t' form t' 'J' hooks that attach t' the rotors, glued them into t' rotor angle stand-off pieces and attached t' angle stand-offs t' t' rotor blades. 

29 April, 1998 More fillets - I added fillets t' t' rotor angle stand-offs when I got back from choir practice. 

30 April, matey, 1998 Finished stand-offs - I cut and bent t' remaining music wire t' form t' 'J' hooks that form t' front attachment points (in the nose cone) for t' rubber bands that extend t' rotor blades. Avast, me proud beauty! I also cut the launch lugs and glued in t' bottom lug. Arrr! One o' t' supplied pieces o' launch lug tubin' was cut t' form supports on t' rotor angle stand-offs (to support the rubber bands at an angle t' help assure rotor deployment) and t' pieces were glued in place. Begad! When I attached t' orthodontic bands t' test t' rotor, the hinges started t' bend (not at t' hinge line) so I whipped t' hinges down with more sewin' thread and soaked t' whippin' with thin CA. Arrr! After this, ya bilge rat, me bucko, the rotors activated cleanly. Begad! Ya scallywag! After checkin' t' rotors, matey, I drilled t' holes for the burn-strin' into t' body tube. 

Other Reviews
  • Apogee Components Heli-Roc By Chan Stevens

    Brief: A basic Rota-roc style helicopter (fixed blade), this is a reliable design and definite crowd pleaser. There's just something cool about a true helicopter recovery rocket. Construction: The kit arrived within 3 days of placing my order online and all components were complete and good quality. Parts list includes: BT-5 body tube 10.5mm motor tube and centering ...

Flights

Comments:

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M.G. (January 1, 2001)
In constructing this model I found out that the nose cone covered the ejection exaust vents, I then trimmed the nose cone to clear the vent holes. I also found that the body tube was 13" long and not the 12" that the kit plans call for. Unfortunately this was right at the rotor attach step, and I wondered why the rotors were not as long as the ones in the pictures. They were, it's just that the body was longer! As a result my Heli-Roc rotor blades do not reach the bottom of the body tube. This hasn't effected the flight characteristics of the model at all. It still is a great flier on the Estes "Mini" motors.
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DBM (February 13, 2006)
I ordered a Heli-Roc kit as a re-intro to helicopter recovery after 25 years on hiatus (I had good success in the 70's using my own design based on Dave Griffiths' "Griffithcopter"). This is an easy to build kit and flies really well, however it is heavy for a 13mm rocket. The cast resin NC is the main culprit; I lightened mine significantly. Using 0.125" to 0.3" drills, I hollowed the NC down to about 3/32" max wall thickness (watch out for the wires embedded in the NC - and DO NOT do this with a hand drill, use a drill press and soft jawed drill vise!). You could also use a Dremel with a round cutting bit but but again, be very careful when getting near the 'roots' of the embedded wire hooks. I also used CA and Kevlar® thread (for the hinge wrapping) and thinned nitrate dope to seal the bare wood. Using colored tissue on the bottom side of the rotors would be a good idea! It flies great on everything from 1/4A's to full A's. I have not timed mine yet but I am getting consistently good flights, the only prang was a rotor hang-up that was my fault; no damage. After the first couple flights you'll see some burn marks on the rotors. I applied 3/8" squares of metal foil tape (real "duct" tape) on the scorched spots and it has prevented any further damage. You could probably use some tin foil and CA or epoxy to do the same thing. It also builds quickly, mine was done in only a few hours. I have found that pre-stretching the rubber bands helps in installing them and reduces the tension enough so that the rotors do not bow too much in the closed position. I take them off between flights and when in storage, they'll last longer that way. I drilled the thread holes in the BT out to 3/32" as it allows the burn thread to be installed much easier. I've also found that elastic thread burns through quicker and is much easier to use. All in all a fun build and great flyer; my success with it has inspired me to work on a 48" rotor diameter, 24mm version.

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