Brief:
This is a 1/162 scale model o' t' Space Shuttle in a boost glider configuration. Ahoy! Aye aye! T' kit uses a single 18mm engine mount set off-center in t' External Tank (ET). Avast! Avast! At apogee, t' Orbiter releases and returns by glide, while t' ET/SRB booster assembly recovers by parachute. Well, blow me down! Auxiliary fin units (removable for display) are provided for stability durin' flight and are attached into t' bottom o' each SRB. Arrr! Estes considers this kit part o' it's Master Modeler series and is classified as Skill Level 4.

Construction:
three cardboard body tubes (BT-67, BT-20) plastic nose cones and tail pieces vacuum formed plastic orbiter balsa fins cardstock elevons and centerin' rings 18mm engine mount incl. Arrr! Begad! metal hook 1/8" launch lugs

T' parts list is extensive for this complex kit which includes a lot o' model detail extraneous t' flight characteristics.

T' instruction manual is 16 pages long and includes 53 construction steps as well as detailed flight trimmin' and finishin' diagrams and instructions. Ya scallywag! All 53 steps are supported by detailed line drawings. Begad! Any potential missteps by t' modeler are anticipated and t' instructions are subsequently VERY detailed.

T' booster assembly and auxiliary fin units are constructed from cardboard tubing, card stock, shiver me timbers, wooden dowels, and molded plastic parts. There is a lot o' care put into details on t' ET such as a corrugated wrap, use o' a shroud line cord t' simulate a vent tube down t' side o' t' ET, matey, arrr, me bucko, a dowel for an oxygen feed line, me hearties, etc. even though most o' t' detail is nay seen once t' Orbiter is placed on t' ET for display.

Assembly o' t' Orbiter is accomplished usin' plastic tube cement for some o' t' joints such as t' elevon dowel, ya bilge rat, but t' joints o' t' vacuum-formed plastic parts need t' be done with liquid plastic cement. Blimey! You brush this adhesive on rather than squeeze out o' a tube. Arrr! Aye aye! It is much stronger than tube cement (watch your sinuses), so you need less t' achieve a stronger joint. Ahoy! It is also much less messy, arrr, and leaves a better lookin' joint without distortion. I wish I knew about this stuff as a kid, because all me model ships, arrr, cars, and planes would have looked a lot nicer and me canopies wouldn't have been smudged!

One very important step that t' instructions urge is t' paint t' Orbiter prior t' static balancing. This should include most decals and a light coat o' clear sealer. This is because t' majority o' t' surface area is behind t' balance point, and applyin' paint evenly over t' surface would throw off your meticulously achieved, very fragile, balance. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Be patient and gentle when cuttin' out t' holes for t' elevon dowels, It is really easy t' slip and cut too much in vacuum-formed plastic. T' nose o' t' Orbiter is left t' be attached after balancin' and flight trimming. Therefore, you have t' postpone paint and decals in t' small area o' that joint, which if you keep t' an absolute minimum finishin' left t' do, should nay affect your trim significantly.

Finishing:
T' instructions recommend paintin' t' SRBs white and t' ET brown by doin' so before you attach them together. If done by spray paint, me hearties, shiver me timbers, t' instructions point out t' need t' mask small strips for t' adhesive. Avast, me proud beauty! Since I would then have t' go in with a brush t' finish paintin' that joint anyway, I decided t' brush paint t' whole booster assembly. Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! I used Testors enamel white glossy for t' SRBs and rust for t' ET. Well, blow me down! This tended t' de-emphasize some o' t' detail on t' ET because o' t' thickness o' brushed enamel paint, arrr, and I think I would spray paint if I did it again. Ahoy! A light coat o' Krylon white was enough t' give a nice glossy finish t' t' Orbiter, shiver me timbers, me bucko, and a good surface for t' waterslide decals. Instead o' spray paint, shiver me timbers, I brushed Testor flat black on t' underside and used military olive green for t' high heat edge tiles. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! Paint as much o' t' nose as possible t' minimize t' effect o' finishin' on trim after you have attached t' nose piece.

Construction Rating: 5 out o' 5

Flight:
T' two engines recommended are C5-3 and C6-3. I have only used C5-3 t' date for that extra little bit o' initial peak thrust. T' first flight was on a stock Estes 3 foot two-piece 1/8 inch launch rod and some light wind. Begad! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! T' rocket went horizontal about 50 feet off t' ground and ejected just prior t' impact. Fortunately, me hearties, t' only damage be t' three Orbiter attachment lugs ripped off. Begad! Blimey! I attribute it t' t' wind on a large sail area, matey, rod whip, matey, and t' auxiliary fins were pushed all t' way into t' SRBs. T' second and third flights have been very straight. I have used a longer 4 foot rod, little or no wind conditions, and t' auxiliary fin units are inserted t' t' aft centerin' rings just inside t' SRB tube with friction fit. Blimey! Blimey! Be careful you don't twist t' SRB off t' ET as you install t' fin unit.

Recovery:
T' elevon adjustment system does nay work real well, and both flights that went high have ended up with more o' a flutter glide with lots o' stall due t' t' adjustment strin' comin' loose and t' elevon fail-safe goin' t' full rise. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' booster assembly recovers fine on an 18 inch plastic Estes chute or a 12 inch nylon chute.

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
Overall, this is a very difficult kit t' build correctly. Well, blow me down! T' instructions, if followed diligently, will keep you out o' trouble. Arrr! Blimey! It is an impressive model on display and in flight. Ahoy! Although it is nay currently in distribution, it seems like Estes has learned from Disney and will periodically re-release it for t' "very last time".

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5