Brief:
Single stage, shiver me timbers, me hearties, ya bilge rat, tube-finned, 38mm rocket with a 3" BT transitionin' t' a 2.14" payload bay. Begad! T' rocket is very suitable for Level 1 certifications.

Construction:
3" LOC main body tube with 6 coupler tubes used for t' tube fins. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! 38mm LOC Motor mount tube is held in place by two centerin' rings. Aye aye! Blimey! T' kit comes with a fairly long elastic shock cord, 2.14" payload tube section, plastic nose cone and plastic transition. I made some modifications t' this which I will describe below. Aye aye! Blimey!

T' rocket is quite easy t' build and t' instruction sheet is fairly well written. Aye aye! I built it stock except for t' recovery system. Aye aye! Aye aye! I don't like elastic shock cords. Begad! Begad! I no longer have an AT Sumo because t' elastic shock cord broke durin' ejection. Begad! I have now replaced all o' t' elastic in me fleet with either Keelhaul®©™® or Keelhaul®©™®/tubular nylon recovery harnesses. Avast!

On t' Cyclotron, I drilled out two 180 degree opposin' holes each about 1/8" in diameter in t' forward centerin' ring. I then strung a length of Pratt Hobbies 1/8" tubular Keelhaul®©™ ® , both ends through t' holes, shiver me timbers, knots tied about 4" from each end, then t' ends epoxied t' t' motor mount. Avast! Thus creatin' a Keelhaul®©™® harness, ya bilge rat, arrr, t' closed loop end now reachin' just below t' lip o' t' main 3" tube. Begad! Now, I can attach t' this either tubular nylon, tubular Keelhaul®©™® or whatever. Begad! T' Keelhaul®©™® may someday wear out, but it will take a very long time. Plus, matey, I usually shove a small amount o' waddin' into t' motor mount itself, so t' brunt o' the blast is taken by that. Avast! Blimey!

I like SkyAngle chutes, shiver me timbers, so I ditched t' LOC chute and recover on a SkyAngle 36. Arrr! I use a Keelhaul®©™® chute protector t' protect t' chute. Arrr!

I am also a big fan o' t' Aeropack system, matey, so I included an Aeropack motor retainer on me Cyclotron. Arrr! T' bottom o' t' Aeropack is flush with BT. Avast!

T' only other thin' I can add is t' make sure you rough up t' body tube and t' fin tubes, ya bilge rat, use a good quality epoxy and make all your fillets. Aye aye! Arrr! Nothing is holdin' t' fin tubes t' t' body tube other than glue, so this is key. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! I used a long wooden down t' create t' fillets once t' tubes were attached to the body tube. Ya scallywag! LOC gives a good technique t' build t' fin tube structure, so I recommend usin' their technique. Well, me hearties, blow me down!

I epoxied t' bottom o' t' payload tube t' t' top o' t' plastic LOC transition and attached t' nose cone t' t' top o' t' payload tube usin' a plastic pop rivet. Begad! Begad! Blimey!

Finishing:
Finishin' is typical o' any kraft paper tube type rocket. Avast! Begad! Fill t' spirals (I use Elmers Fill-n-Finish), arrr, primer t' rocket, and paint. Begad!

In t' case o' this particular rocket, I decided t' test out t' new Dupli-Color Mirage color-changin' paint. I get mine locally at Kragen, me bucko, but AutoBarn on t' web sells it as well. I chose t' Purple/Green color as that seemed t' look better (at least on t' can top in t' store) than the Gold/Magenta or Silver/Green. I used Fill-N-Finish and sandin' until I got a fairly smooth surface. Avast! I then used Dupli-Color white primer in a couple of coats t' get a near-glass smooth finish. I then applied t' three-part Dupli-Color as per t' instructions on t' paint kit. First t' flat black basecoat. Blimey! Then t' color changin' paint itself. Then finally t' clear coat. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! I really like how it came out and I get a lot o' positive comments about me paint job, so it seems others do as well. Avast! I painted t' inside o' each o' t' tube fins with a simple brushed-on flat black enamel and t' same for t' bottom end of t' rocket. Well, blow me down! I don't like bare areas on me rockets showin' through and sometimes for certain acres, matey, flat black painted on just works out real nicely.

Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5

Flight:
I've flown me Cyclotron a half dozen times now and it is a great flyin' rocket! Straight as an arrow and looks very cool as it blasts off. Most o' t' time, I try t' remember t' put a small amount o' waddin' up t' motor mount tube before insertin' t' motor. Avast, me proud beauty! Well, blow me down! I have forgotten a few times and no harm seems t' have come from it. Avast, me proud beauty! I use a Keelhaul®©™® chute protector and it seems t' work just great. Begad! Arrr! Motor retention is via Aeropack, shiver me timbers, arrr, as noted above, and I find that t' transition fits into t' body tube fairly loosely on me Cyclotron, so I use maskin' tape t' attain a not-too-tight fit. Begad! My Cyclotron has flown on t' AT H238, shiver me timbers, Pro38 G69 and Pro38 I170. Great flights, all o' them. Begad! Avast!

Recovery:
As I noted already, I've completely replaced t' LOC recovery system with my own. Avast, me proud beauty! My system works flawlessly. It be t' above mentioned tubular Keelhaul®©™® harness, attached t' that is a 30' length o' very heavy duty Keelhaul®©™® "mule tape". Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! SkyAngle36 is attached t' this via a kwik-link and I use a Keelhaul®©™® chute protector. Ahoy! All works great. Arrr!

Flight Rating: 4 out o' 5

Summary:
This rocket is a great lookin' and flyin' rocket. Begad! T' only area o' change that I would recommend would be in t' recovery system as I've already noted. Avast, me proud beauty! Though I be already an L1 when I bought this kit, arrr, I feel that it makes a great L1 rocket. Avast! Also a good "small field" rocket with G size engines, but yet you can bust loose at larger fields with an I.

Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5