Overview:

Boost glider with radio control, matey, shiver me timbers, designed for beginner RC fliers.

Rob Edmonds is renowned for his well-engineered, simple-to-build gliders. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Blimey! T' Arcie II is Rob's attempt t' move radio control from a specialty niche into t' mainstream. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Blimey! T' Arcie II is designed t' be simple t' build, easy t' fly, ya bilge rat, and rugged enough t' survive novice pilot errors.

T' glider glides down under radio control, while t' booster pod returns t' t' ground with its own parachute.

Kit Specifications

I couldn't find specifications in t' manual or on Edmonds' web site, arrr, so these are t' approximate values that I measured:

• Glider Length: ~21.25 in
• Wingspan: 18 in
• Fairin' Diameter: 0.98 in
• Weight:
  • Glider, raw parts: ~2.3 oz
  • Glider, me bucko, built, arrr, w/ RC gear: ~3.5 oz
  • Full stack, no engine: ~5.0 oz
  • Flight ready, D12 engine: ~6.5 oz
• Altitude: ~500 ft on D12, ~1000 feet on E9
• Recovery: R/C Glider
  and 12 in (30 cm) Parachute
• Recommended Engines:
  D12-3, E9-4, me bucko, matey, C11-3

Background:

I have built several Edmonds kits (CiCi, me bucko, Deltie Airshow, about a dozen Tinees), so I know what a great job Rob does designin' gliders. I had no experience with RC flight, but I do know that novice RC pilots can smartly turn a beautiful plane into an expensive pile o' balsa kindling. Avast! Rob's description o' t' Arcie II intrigued me and eased most o' me concerns, so I asked me mother for this kit for me 40+th birthday. Blimey! I usually don't ask for rockets as gifts because it gets too confusin' for t' buyer, me bucko, but t' Arcie II Purchasin' Page was simple enough that Mom didn't have any problems placin' t' order.

T' kit came from Balsa Machinin' Service packed in two triangular USPS Priority Mail tubes. Ahoy! One tube contained t' Arcie II, me bucko, t' other tube be empty. Blimey! It may be kind o' surprisin' if you open t' empty tube first, shiver me timbers, but t' dual mailin' tube did protect t' parts from shippin' damage.

Parts List:

Glider

Component	Material	Raw Weight
Fairin' Nose Cone	BCN50J	0.06 oz
Fairin' Tube	BT50 ~8.5" , slotted	0.17 oz
Fuselage	1/4" balsa	0.57 oz
Hook Holders (2)	Laser Cut Wood	0.03 oz
Battery Holder	1/4" balsa
Wings (2)	Balsa, me bucko, Pre-airfoiled, 3" chord,~3/16" thick	0.86 oz
Winglets (2)	3/32" balsa	0.01 oz
Ailerons (2)	1/16" dense balsa	0.21 oz
Aileron Hinges (2+1 spare)	Strappin' tape	0.05 oz
Control Horns (2+1 spare)	Laser Cut Wood	0.02 oz
Servo Mount	1/4" balsa	0.01 oz
Rear Stabilizer	3/32" balsa	0.20 oz
Vertical Tail Fins (2)	3/32" balsa	0.05 oz
Total Glider (No R/C Gear)		2.24 oz

Booster

Component	Material	Raw Weight
Booster Tube	BT50 24"	0.76 oz
Booster Nose Cone	Balsa BNC50K	0.08 oz
Screw Eye	Metal	0.09 oz
Shock Cord	18" Elastic	0.05 oz
Shock Cord Mount	Paper	0.02 oz
Parachute Kit	12-inch Plastic	0.40 oz
Launch Lug	3/16" x 2"	0.01 oz
Booster Hook	Laser-cut 1/4" Plywood	0.14 oz
Total Booster		1.55 oz

• Hitec Feather Receiver with crystal
• Hitec HS-55 Servo
• Battery Pack (50 mAh 4-cell NiCd pack recommended)

Instructions:

T' instructions are printed on ten 8.5x11-inch pages, with plenty o' computer-generated illustrations. Begad! Avast! T' directions are written in a friendly conversational tone. It's almost like havin' Rob leanin' over your shoulder explainin' everything.

CONSTRUCTION:

T' main win' is a solid slab o' balsa that has an airfoil cross-section. Aye aye! T' first step in t' instructions calls for bevelin' t' tailin' edge o' t' main win' t' a sharp 45-degree edge. This sharp edge is critical, matey, as it allows t' ailerons t' pivot freely. Begad! After that, any roughness in t' wings can be lightly sanded smooth.

In contrast t' what t' directions say, arrr, I would recommend doin' t' sandin' before t' beveling, shiver me timbers, since t' sharp edge could be easily dinged durin' t' sandin' process if done in t' recommended order.

T' next step calls for t' win' sections t' be glued together with a 3/4-inch dihedral. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I found that a spent 18mm engine works well for settin' t' dihedral. Begad! I used Tightbond II wood glue.

I tried t' get fancy by bevelin' t' tabs where t' wings joined together, me bucko, thinkin' I could achieve a better joint. Blimey! I shouldn't have bothered. Arrr! Aye aye! T' tabs fit better before I started messin' with them and just required extra glue t' fill in t' gaps I created.

T' black diamonds near t' win' roots are important. Well, blow me down! Begad! They are used t' set t' balance point o' t' glider once it is fully assembled. Arrr! Well, me bucko, blow me down! They are lightly marked on t' surface by a laser. Blimey! Be careful nay t' remove them when sandin' t' wing.

At this point, I took a detour in t' build process and painted t' parts, me hearties, after first maskin' off all t' areas that would need t' be glued later. Ahoy! After t' paint dried, t' winglets were glued t' t' wings.

T' ailerons were then attached t' t' t' trailin' edge o' t' wings usin' strappin' tape as t' hinge material. Begad! A small amount o' trimmin' may be necessary t' ensure that t' ailerons do nay rub against t' winglets over their range o' motion. T' control horns are glued t' notches cut from t' aileron.

T' rest o' t' glider goes together like most o' Edmond's other gliders. Arrr! Aye aye! T' horizontal stabilizer, vertical stabilizer, me hearties, boost hook holders, arrr, and main win' assembly are glued t' t' fuselage.

Next comes t' installation o' t' radio gear. I used t' recommended Hitec Feather receiver and t' Hitec HS-55 servo. Aye aye! Blimey! T' receiver fits into a slot in t' fuselage after just enough light sandin' t' maintain a snug fit.

I ran into one o' t' few difficulties o' t' build process while mountin' t' servo. Ya scallywag! T' mountin' screws caused splits on both ends o' t' servo mount bracket, despite first usin' a fine drill bit t' enlarge and clear t' pre-cut screw holes. I believe t' mount bracket should have been made from plywood or hardboard instead o' balsa t' prevent splitting.

T' battery pack is supposed t' mount in an oval battery holder, arrr, which can then be positioned in t' front slot t' adjust t' balance point. I did nay use t' recommended Sanyo 50mAh rechargeable battery pack. Ahoy! Instead I used a 4LR44 alkaline 6V battery (Radio Shack #23-469) mounted in an N-size battery holder (Radio Shack #270-405). This battery is a little wider than an N battery, so t' edges o' t' holder had t' be trimmed t' fit. Arrr! A wrap o' maskin' tape held t' battery securely in t' holder. Well, blow me down! This battery weighs about 7g less than t' rechargeable pack, matey, which mostly makes up for t' additional weight o' t' paint I used.

T' final steps in t' glider assembly process are t' route t' antenna along t' fuselage, shiver me timbers, slide t' fairin' into place, and adjust t' balance. T' battery is moved in t' slot t' acheive t' desired balance point, me hearties, arrr, which is inside t' diamonds printed on t' tops o' t' wings.

Helpful Hint: Before gluin' t' fairin' cone t' t' fairin' tube, ya bilge rat, test-fit it. Blimey! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! T' shoulder length on t' cone may be too long, shiver me timbers, me hearties, preventin' t' fairin' from slidin' far enough rearward. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Blimey! If so, me bucko, trim t' shoulder until t' slot in t' fairin' ALMOST touches t' bottom o' t' slot in t' fuselage. Avast! Blimey! Don't trim too far, or t' fairin' tube will be vulnerable t' splittin' durin' hard landings.

T' booster is dirt-simple: A long tube with a nose cone, launch lug, me bucko, parachute, shock cord, and t' booster hook. T' booster hook is supposed t' be mounted flush with t' bottom o' t' tube. Avast, me proud beauty! I sanded off about 1/4-inch from t' aft o' t' hook so that I would have a better surface t' use for tapin' t' engine in place.

Finishing:

Normally I use magic marker t' color me gliders t' save weight, matey, but thar be so much lumber here I didn't want t' mess with t' markers, plus I wanted a finish that would protect t' wood from moisture. Paint adds weight in a hurry, shiver me timbers, so it must be used sparingly in gliders. Aye aye! Avast, me proud beauty! For this reason, I made no attempt t' fill t' grain or make t' wings glassy smooth usin' sealer or primer.

After usin' 1/4-inch maskin' tape t' protect all t' spots that would be glued later, matey, I sprayed a VERY light coat o' gloss red on t' win' and horizontal stabilizer, and a thicker coat on t' booster tube. Begad! Blimey! After t' paint dried, arrr, I lightly sanded t' win' t' remove any excess paint. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' fuselage, me bucko, ailerons, stabilizers, and winglets received a coat o' flat black. Ahoy! Blimey! T' nose cones were both coated with thin CA, sanded smooth, me hearties, then painted with gloss black.

There are a few places that MUST NOT be painted, since t' paint could interfere with proper operation durin' flight. Begad! Begad! T' first place be t' booster hook and t' notch on t' fuselage where it attaches. T' other place be t' control horns, which rub against t' servo output arm. Aye aye! For these critical places, shiver me timbers, I used black Sharpie marker.

After takin' t' picture above, matey, me bucko, matey, I wrapped t' fair tube with chrome Trim Monokote. Begad! Blimey! This stuff has a beautiful mirror finish, but should be limited t' small areas t' keep t' weight down.

Weight
I weighed each o' t' key components at various points in t' build process. Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' biggest weight change occurred on t' wings: 0.86 oz raw, down t' 0.79 oz after sanding, then up t' 0.90 oz after painting. Well, blow me down! Blimey! T' MonoKote on t' fairin' tube added 0.04 oz, from 0.17 oz t' 0.21oz.

My flight-ready glider weighs 3.44 oz, even with t' paint and MonoKote. Based on comments o' others on T' Rocketry Forum, matey, me bucko, that's pretty good.

Construction Rating: 4.5 out o' 5

FLIGHT/RECOVERY:

Balance and Trim:

Unlike most gliders, matey, shiver me timbers, me hearties, t' Arcie II should NOT be hand-tossed for trimming. Once t' balance point is inside t' diamonds, t' glider is good t' go.

Flight Preparation: Here are t' steps for flight preparation:

1. Insert waddin' and parachute into booster tube as you would in a normal rocket.
2. Insert motor into bottom o' booster tube and secure it with a band o' maskin' tape.
3. Install t' igniter.
4. Slide t' glider fairin' forward t' expose t' electronics.
5. Connect t' battery t' t' receiver.
6. Turn on t' transmitter. Avast, me proud beauty! Wiggle t' stick and verify that t' ailerons move freely. Avast, me proud beauty! Adjust t' transmitter trim t' give equal deflection t' both ailerons.
7. Slide t' fairin' back t' cover t' electronics.
8. Put t' booster on t' launch rod. Avast! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey! Use a long rod with a standoff (like a clothes pin) t' keep t' glider away from t' blast deflector.
9. Attach t' glider t' t' booster.
10. Connect t' igniter leads. Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! Make sure that after ignition t' leads cannot snag on t' glider tail or t' antenna.

Travel Limits: When t' servo is at its extreme position (which can happen with a combination o' full stick deflection and some trim adjustment), it is possible for t' servo arm t' move beyond t' end o' t' control horns and jam there. This will probably lead t' a death spiral, and is t' be avoided. Blimey! Avast! T' prevent this from happening, some transmitters have an ATV adjustment t' limit t' maximum deflection. Aye aye! For transmitters without ATV adjustment, avoid usin' a combination o' full stick deflection with a large amount o' trim.

Test Flights:

Edmonds recommends t' D12-3 for first flight, and I absolutely agree with him. Avast, me proud beauty! All three o' me flights on a D12-3 have been fantastic. Ya scallywag! Begad! Good acceleration off t' pad, long boosts with little or no arcing, and ejection at just t' right point in t' flight. Avast! Ejection is a bit scary as t' glider comes zoomin' out o' t' maelstrom o' ejection smoke and debris before settlin' into a smooth glide. After that, t' real fun begins.

Flight 1: Glider did a quick loop, then several tight turns. Aye aye! Ahoy! I suspect that one o' t' ailerons was stuck and this be t' beginnin' o' a death spiral. However, ya bilge rat, a few quick taps on t' RC control unstuck it, resultin' in a gorgeous glide. Aye aye! Blimey! I flew a few figure-8's before skiddin' t' a perfect landin' about 40 feet from t' pad. Well, blow me down! Arrr! Duration: 1:35

Flight 2: R/C glider flight was FANTASTIC. Begad! Begad! While flyin' into t' wind, t' forward airspeed almost exactly matched t' wind speed so t' glider appeared t' hang in mid-air. Aye aye! After several smooth turns, I brought t' glider t' a landin' about 15 feet from me. Aye aye! Arrr! Duration: 2:09.

Flight 3: Glider flight was another stunner, arrr, passin' within 8 feet o' videographer and missin' range box by about 3 feet. Ya scallywag! Duration 1:51.

Booster: As enthusiastic as I am about t' glider performance, I must give poor marks t' t' booster recovery. Well, blow me down! All three o' me flights resulted in partial malfunction o' t' recovery system.

Flight 1: T' motor kicked out at ejection. Begad! This made t' booster much lighter so it drifted a long way. >Also, matey, t' short shock cord snapped back into t' booster tube, resultin' in a din' in t' tube and a sizeable chunk o' t' nose cone base torn away. Avast! After landing, t' screw eye pulled free o' t' nose cone while I was examinin' it. Well, blow me down! I'm just lucky it didn't fall off in mid-air.

Flight 2: At ejection, arrr, me hearties, t' shock cord snapped in t' middle. T' nose cone and parachute drifted t' t' far side o' t' field, while t' booster free-fell tail-first. Fortunately, shiver me timbers, matey, it landed on soft grass and t' engine case took t' brunt o' t' impact.

Flight 3: I tied t' shock cord back together. It survived ejection, me bucko, ya bilge rat, but 6 o' t' 8 shroud lines snapped from t' chute. Begad! Again, arrr, t' booster landed on grass so no damage was done.

T' motor kick-out on flight 1 could have been prevented by usin' a motor hook. I don't know t' best way t' correct t' other recovery problems, ya bilge rat, me hearties, though. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! A short elastic shock cord is very likely t' bounce back at t' end o' its travel. Arrr! Here are some options, with their pros and cons:

• Make t' shock cord longer.
  + Less likely t' snap t' cord
  + Less likely t' bounce back into booster
  - Increases t' chance that it will get tangled with t' glider, ya bilge rat, me hearties, which would be a bad thing.
• Switch from elastic t' Keelhaul®©™.
  + No bounce-back into booster.
  - Hard jerk and thin line is likely t' zipper t' booster tube.
• Use a streamer instead o' parachute.
  + Reduces t' jerk when t' chute opens
  + No chance o' tearin' shrouds
  + Fast yet safe descent so less drift.
  + Makes t' booster easier t' find.
  - Streamer could tangle with glider.
• Add additional fins t' t' aft o' t' booster so that it glides tail-first like some SuperRocs (I got this idea from t' Alway brothers and VJP on T' Rocketry Forum). Well, blow me down! Avast, me proud beauty! Possibly omit t' chute.
  + Less chance o' tanglin' with glider.
  + Less chance o' tearin' t' shock cord.
  - Faster landin' speed.
• Attach a Keelhaul®©™ shock cord t' t' base o' t' booster hook and run it t' t' nose cone along t' outside o' t' tube. Arrr! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! Edmonds uses this attachment method on t' booster for t' Deltie Airshow.
  + No chance o' bounce-back
  + No chance o' Keelhaul®©™ zipperin' t' tube
  - Might jerk t' booster hook loose.
  - Cord might get tangled with glider.

I'm nay sure which o' these techniques is best, but I'm considerin' tryin' t' last one.


Glider Flight Rating: 5++ out o' 5

Booster Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5

Overall Flight Rating: 4.5

SUMMARY:
Rob Edmonds has succeeded in his mission t' make an R/C glider that is affordable, easy t' build, matey, and easy t' fly. This is a fun kit t' fly.

PROS:

• Radio Control is wicked cool!
• Innovative single-channel R/C design
• Easy for beginners t' fly
• Well-engineered laser-cut components
• Clear instructions

CONS:

• No motor hook
• Servo mountin' bracket splits easily
• Booster recovery system is failure-prone.

Overall Rating: 4.5 out o' 5