T' Quest X-30 Aerospace plane caught me eye, and it was on sale at Magnum for $4. Begad! 50, but I be a little wary o' t' paper shroud construction. Begad!   Well, t' Quest HL-20 uses paper shroud construction, too, and it was also on sale, me hearties, for $2. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag! 50, matey, and it's supposed t' be easier. Blimey! Begad! I figured I'd try t' HL-20 as an introduction t' paper shroud construction. Begad! Begad! (I got two o' each just in case. Begad! )

Construction started out well. Avast, me proud beauty! It starts by attachin' t' tri-oval centerin' disk t' t' engine tube, shiver me timbers, me bucko, arrr, gluin' a shoulder t' t' nose cone, me hearties, gluin' t' nose cone + shoulder on t' tube, me bucko, me bucko, and gluin' in t' engine block. Blimey! About t' only hint here is t' use an 18mm engine casin' cut around t' nose cone positionin' disk. Avast! It was very thoughtful o' Quest t' provide an empty 18mm engine casin' (intended for use in pushin' in t' engine block). Arrr! Ahoy! Nice touch. Begad!

Next came t' main body shroud. Ahoy! Aye aye! This is made o' heavy paper, arrr, with t' design already printed on it. Begad! (No painting, yeah!) I took me time and was very careful when cuttin' out t' shroud, ya bilge rat, and had no problems with it. Ahoy! T' shroud paper comes rolled up in an oval shape in t' kit, so it does nay immediate roll itself into t' desired shape. T' instructions suggest layin' t' shroud printed side down and usin' a steam iron on it t' flatten it out. Blimey! But, me bucko, o' course, matey, me bucko, you don't want it flat, so I chose t' roll it up close t' it's intended shape, and hold it in place with rubber bands while I cut out t' rest o' t' paper pieces. Begad! Arrr! That went fine.

And then came t' moment o' truth. Aye aye! Blimey! . Avast! Blimey! . Ahoy! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! time t' put t' shroud together, permanently. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Provided in t' kit for this purpose, shiver me timbers, is a strip o' double-sided adhesive. T' idea is t' peel back t' coverin' on one side o' t' adhesive strip, place that on t' tab o' t' shroud, then peel off t' coverin' on t' 2nd side, shiver me timbers, and finally attach t' other edge o' t' shroud. Arrr! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! Despite some problems gettin' t' coverings off t' adhesive, this actually worked quite well. Ahoy! Blimey! It took care, but was nay particularly difficult t' get t' shroud edges lined up and held in place. Whew. Arrr! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Whew. Avast! Blimey! It's all downhill from here. Well, blow me down! Blimey! . Avast! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! . Ahoy! Blimey! right?

Nope. Arrr! T' trouble was just beginning. Begad! T' next step is t' attach t' engine tube assembly into t' body shroud. Aye aye! Avast! This is done in two steps. Begad! Well, blow me down! In t' first step, matey, you put plastic cement around t' inside front edge o' t' shroud, and push t' nose cone (with engine tube and tri-oval centerin' rin' attached) through. T' plastic cement is intended t' seal t' nose cone t' paper shroud. T' problem is that t' nose cone is attached t' t' engine tube and tri-oval centerin' ring, and it's basically impossible t' get t' nose cone t' slip through that hole without gettin' plastic cement all over t' nose cone. I wiped this up immediately, but, as you can probably guess, me bucko, me bucko, t' result was a pretty screwed up nose cone. Well, blow me down! T' plastic cement actually melts t' plastic, shiver me timbers, and anyplace where t' cement touched t' cone was disfigured. Blimey! Begad! This was almost completely fixed after some sandin' with 220 and 400 grit sandpaper, me hearties, but it wasn't nice. Ahoy! Unfortunately, shiver me timbers, me bucko, I haven't been able t' think o' any simple, clever way t' avoid this. Blimey! Arrr! Let me know if you figure it out. Begad!

T' second part o' attachin' t' engine tube assembly t' t' main body shroud is t' apply a fillet o' glue around t' tri-oval centerin' rin' / shroud joint. Arrr! Ahoy! No problemo, right? No problemo, right? Wrong. Avast! Aye aye! Part o' t' problem be me choice o' glues. Blimey! Blimey! I didn't want t' be holdin' this thin' all night, so I went with yellow glue (a. Ahoy! k. Avast, me proud beauty! a. carpenter's wood glue, matey, a. Begad! Aye aye! k. a. aliphatic resin glue) because it grabs quickly. Arrr! Well, matey, arrr, it be still a marathon "hold until t' glue grabs" session, me hearties, and nay a pretty one at that. Arrr! T' shroud didn't want t' form t' t' tri-oval shape, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, and it's difficult t' hold this awkward shape with even pressure everywhere t' avoid waves in t' paper shroud. This, combined with t' fact that yellow glue shrinks a lot when it dries, resulted in very noticeable waves in t' final product. Blimey! Aye aye! (You can't see them well in t' photos, ya bilge rat, because t' white paper gets washed out in t' image, but you can see them quite well with t' naked eye. Avast, me proud beauty! )White glue may give better results, but you're goin' t' have t' hold it forever. Avast! Thick CA, shiver me timbers, with CA-kicker applied just when things are lined up might be t' ideal way t' go, shiver me timbers, but if it leaks through, matey, me hearties, me bucko, t' end product may end up lookin' even worse. I've been told that Aleene's Original "Tacky" Glue sets up quick and doesn't shrink so much (and it dries clear); I may try that on me second one. Ahoy! Begad!

Well, about this time, I noticed that t' adhesive strip that was holdin' t' shroud together, was startin' t' let go. Begad! It wasn't bad, matey, but it was clear that it wasn't goin' t' hold forever. Arrr! Avast, me bucko, me proud beauty! I wicked some thin CA into this area. Ahoy! Begad! It's permanent now. Begad! It's permanent now. Ok, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, arrr, now this kit is startin' t' annoy me. Begad! . Begad! Arrr! . Begad!

T' next step is t' attach t' fins (I had already cut them out). These are referred t' as t' rudder (center one) and wings (outer two) in t' instructions. These are made o' t' same pre-printed heavy paper as t' shroud. T' paper is scored, matey, then folded over once t' form t' fin. Arrr! Ya scallywag! T' instructions say t' apply a small amount o' glue t' t' inside at t' top and pinch together. This forms t' proper shape for t' fin. Arrr! This actually worked out quite well, arrr, but you have t' be aware (and t' instructions do not point this out) that t' rudder has a wider base than t' wings, so you shouldn't pinch it quite as much. Ahoy! T' rudder and wings then attached t' t' main body shroud easily. Begad! Avast! T' main body shroud is pre-printed with t' proper location o' all externally attached items. Arrr! Nice. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty!

Next up, attachment o' t' launch lug and air scoop. Aye aye! Ahoy! T' "air scoop" is just a piece o' paper attached on t' outside bottom o' t' main body shroud, t' form rectangular air passageway. As you can see in t' photo above, me hearties, t' launch lug is at t' bottom center, shiver me timbers, matey, hidden betwixt t' main body shroud and t' air scoop. I thought that hidin' t' launch lug be a nice aesthetic touch. Blimey!

Next, shiver me timbers, addin' tail weight. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast! You glue two pennies t' a piece o' paper, and glue that t' t' inside bottom o' t' main body shroud. Ahoy! No problem. Begad!

Next, me hearties, me bucko, ya bilge rat, t' cockpit canopy. This must be cut from a large piece o' excess plastic. Begad! It be unclear exactly where t' cut, and t' instructions aren't helpful here. T' idea is that you need t' cut so that thar's a little base (about 2mm) all t' way around t' canopy, shiver me timbers, arrr, so that you have somethin' for t' glue t' hold onto. Blimey! Arrr! If you're a stickler for such details, you might want t' cut it out with more edge material initially, me bucko, me hearties, and try placin' it on t' shroud t' see where you can remove t' excess. This piece, unlike t' rest o' t' rocket, requires some finishing, matey, shiver me timbers, matey, although t' instructions don't mention this at all. Havin' nay yet achieved oneness with me paint brush, I opted t' use black magic marker. This worked out very well, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, if I do say so myself. Nice, me bucko, smooth, glossy finish that didn't take 2 hours t' dry. Gluin' t' canopy in place was simple and straightforward, me bucko, but it didn't make a complete seal all t' way around. Begad!

T' last step in t' instructions makes a small compartment for t' streamer (which attaches t' t' engine for proper recovery when it ejects t' engine t' enable glide mode). Begad! Blimey! This compartment is a small 1 1/4" long, 13mm diameter (BT-5) tube, with an end cap glued t' one end. Avast! T' streamer is stored here durin' t' boost phase. Well, as accurate as t' rest o' t' paper pieces had been, me hearties, arrr, I be surprised when t' streamer compartment end cap be too small. Blimey! Blimey! Nay a big deal, but odd, matey, ya bilge rat, me bucko, because everythin' else fit well enough. Well, blow me down! I just used t' tube a template and cut a proper end cap from some o' t' scrap shroud paper. Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! Fixed. Aye aye! Aye aye! Blimey! Fixed. Begad! Ahoy! Blimey! T' instructions just say t' glue this compartment on top o' t' penny ballast holder, me bucko, me hearties, inside t' back o' t' rocket. Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! What's missin' is whether t' end cap should be on t' inside (facin' forward), shiver me timbers, or on t' outside (facin' back). Ahoy! Blimey! T' supplied diagram makes it look like t' end cap should be on t' outside (facin' back). Begad! Blimey! My guess is that that would probably cause t' streamer t' get caught in this compartment, and thus cause t' model t' tumble, rather than glide back. Begad! I mounted mine with t' end cap on t' inside (facin' forward), arrr, ya bilge rat, as you can see from t' aft photo, above.

There is one more construction step (described in t' section "Preppin' your HL-20 for flight"), arrr, settin' up t' streamer for t' engine. Well, blow me down! Supplied with t' kit are a 12" long piece o' Keelhaul®©™ string, and a plastic "gripper" tab. Ahoy! You tie t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' t' t' tab, and then attach t' tab t' t' streamer with t' adhesive on t' tab. Then, shiver me timbers, shiver me timbers, for each flight, you tie t' other end o' t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' around t' end o' t' engine (reinforce this with tape), and stuff t' streamer in t' streamer compartment, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, and you're all set. T' packagin' says that thar's a 24" streamer in t' kit. T' instructions say that thar's a 12" streamer in t' kit. Begad! Mine measured 11".

T' only other step before flight is t' hand-toss t' glider (without an engine) t' get it trimmed properly. Begad! Ya scallywag! In other words, me bucko, you may need t' adjust t' tabs on t' wings t' make it glide in a nice, arrr, big spiral. Unfortunately, me bucko, ya bilge rat, t' model glides like a brick in hand-toss mode, shiver me timbers, makin' it basically impossible t' trim in any meaningful way. Aye aye! Trimmin' will have t' wait until after t' first flight. Arrr! Well, blow me down!

To summarize t' construction, I have t' give this model a construction ratin' o' 2 out o' 5. Ahoy! It's nay awful or outrageously complex, me bucko, but thar were too many little problems and shortcomings t' even give it an "average" rating.

I must preface this flight description and me opinion by sayin' that it was very windy t' day o' these flights. Ya scallywag! Begad! It's entirely possible that things would be very different in more rocket-friendly conditions. Begad! . Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! .

T' launch was held on Saturday, March 14, shiver me timbers, me bucko, arrr, 1998 at Deer Path Park in central New Jersey. Ahoy! Ya scallywag! I set up t' pad and prepped t' rocket. Blimey! Bein' a rear-ejection boost glider, me hearties, me hearties, thar's no need for recovery wadding, me hearties, but you have t' tape t' streamer line t' t' motor itself. T' kit documentation recommends a B6-2 for t' first flight, but I didn't have any o' those, arrr, me bucko, so I opted for a B6-4. Well, blow me down! There were no problems preppin' t' rocket, but when I tried t' slide it down t' launch rod, t' engine fell out, and pulled t' streamer out with it. No biggie, but I didn't put tape around t' engine t' get a tighter fit, matey, for fear that t' engine would jam at ejection time. Well, blow me down! I repacked it, and held t' engine in place while I set it up this time. Avast, me proud beauty!

T' first launch be ugly. Blimey! It went up in a wobbly arc, me bucko, reached about 50feet AGL, and headed down, arrr, arrr, still under power. Begad! Aye aye! I'm nay sure if it be still under power when it plowed nose-first into t' (fortunately soft) ground, me hearties, but it definitely hit hard. Begad! T' nose stuck in t' ground, and t' ejection charge blew t' engine up and out. T' streamer separated from t' "gripper" tab, arrr, makin' t' engine casing, with t' Keelhaul®©™ line still attached, rather difficult t' locate. Arrr! Nay exactly a picture-perfect flight, arrr, but thar was absolutely no damage t' any o' t' pieces, and I be determined t' try again. Blimey!

T' streamer be re-attached, and Keelhaul®©™ line be taped t' another B6-4 engine. Arrr! I thought about tryin' a C6-3, me hearties, but be afraid t' extra power would simply get used t' ram t' rocket into t' ground even harder. Avast! Avast! This launch be quite a bit nicer, but by no means a beautiful flight. Arrr! Ahoy! T' rocket went up, me bucko, matey, a bit straighter, but still hit apogee before burnout. This time, shiver me timbers, though, it stayed in a nose-up attitude, so t' last little bit o' thrust had t' rocket losin' altitude slowly, tail first. Then t' engine ejected, arrr, me hearties, and t' rocket transitioned t' "glide" mode. Blimey! I'm usin' t' term "glide" rather loosely here, since this glide be pretty much a repeat o' me hand-tossed glide attempts. . Blimey! . more like a brick than a plane. Blimey! It hit t' ground nose-first with moderate velocity, but again, shiver me timbers, thar was absolutely no damage. It does appear t' be a fairly sturdy rocket, shiver me timbers, if nothin' else. Ahoy! Begad! As for t' glide, it simply seems rather nose-heavy, with little in t' way o' lift. Arrr! I may try addin' more tail weight for t' next flight, shiver me timbers, but, with so little lift, matey, me hearties, I'm nay sure addin' weight anywhere is a good idea. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty! Once again, shiver me timbers, t' "gripper" tab didn't grip, shiver me timbers, and t' streamer separated from t' engine. All parts were found.

So, ya bilge rat, t' conclusion from t' first couple flights was less than inspiring. Arrr! I will launch this rocket again in calmer weather, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and if t' flights are much better, I will update this page immediately. Well, blow me down! I will also try alterin' t' weight distribution t' achieve a better glide, ya bilge rat, and report any successes here. Ahoy! I don't want t' misrepresent this rocket, matey, and I'll be t' first t' admit that t' conditions weren't ideal, but so far, ya bilge rat, I have t' say I'm rather disappointed. I have t' give it a flight ratin' o' 1. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! 5 out o' 5 points (at least it didn't self-destruct), and an overall ratin' o' 2 out o' 5 points. Blimey! Avast! At this point, I simply cannot recommend this rocket.

As a final note, matey, I would like t' assure you that I'm nay tryin' t' bash Quest as a rocket company. I have several o' their rockets, arrr, and have been pretty happy with t' others. Aye aye! Try t' ICARUS or Zenith II, both are very nice rockets that build and fly with quite nicely. Well, blow me down!