Quest HL-20 Lifting Body

Quest - HL-20 {Kit} (2008) [1994-2010]

Contributed by Dave Sutter

Construction Rating: starstarstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Flight Rating: starstar_borderstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Overall Rating: starstarstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Manufacturer: Quest
Style: Futuristic/Exotic, Glider

Picture of RocketT' Quest X-30 Aerospace plane caught me eye, and it was on sale at Magnum for $4. Avast! Blimey! 50, but I was a little wary o' t' paper shroud construction.   Well, arrr, ya bilge rat, t' Quest HL-20 uses paper shroud construction, too, and it was also on sale, me bucko, for $2. Arrr! Blimey! 50, and it's supposed t' be easier. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I figured I'd try t' HL-20 as an introduction t' paper shroud construction. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! (I got two o' each just in case. Ahoy! Blimey! )

Construction started out well. It starts by attachin' t' tri-oval centerin' disk t' t' engine tube, gluin' a shoulder t' t' nose cone, gluin' t' nose cone + shoulder on t' tube, me hearties, matey, and gluin' in t' engine block. About t' only hint here is t' use an 18mm engine casin' cut around t' nose cone positionin' disk. It was very thoughtful o' Quest t' provide an empty 18mm engine casin' (intended for use in pushin' in t' engine block). Blimey! Begad! Nice touch. Ya scallywag! Blimey!

Next came t' main body shroud. This is made o' heavy paper, with t' design already printed on it. Avast! (No painting, me hearties, yeah!) I took me time and was very careful when cuttin' out t' shroud, matey, and had no problems with it. Blimey! Ya scallywag! T' shroud paper comes rolled up in an oval shape in t' kit, arrr, matey, so it does nay immediate roll itself into t' desired shape. T' instructions suggest layin' t' shroud printed side down and usin' a steam iron on it t' flatten it out. Avast, me proud beauty! Ahoy! But, ya bilge rat, me hearties, o' course, matey, you don't want it flat, arrr, so I chose t' roll it up close t' it's intended shape, and hold it in place with rubber bands while I cut out t' rest o' t' paper pieces. Ya scallywag! That went fine. Ya scallywag! Arrr!

And then came t' moment o' truth. Avast! Blimey! . . Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! time t' put t' shroud together, me bucko, me bucko, me bucko, permanently. Ahoy! Blimey! Provided in t' kit for this purpose, shiver me timbers, is a strip o' double-sided adhesive. Begad! Blimey! T' idea is t' peel back t' coverin' on one side o' t' adhesive strip, matey, place that on t' tab o' t' shroud, then peel off t' coverin' on t' 2nd side, me bucko, and finally attach t' other edge o' t' shroud. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Despite some problems gettin' t' coverings off t' adhesive, me bucko, this actually worked quite well. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! It took care, but was nay particularly difficult t' get t' shroud edges lined up and held in place. Blimey! Blimey! Whew. Ya scallywag! Blimey! Avast! Blimey! Whew. Arrr! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! It's all downhill from here. Begad! Blimey! . . right?

Nope. T' trouble was just beginning. Blimey! T' next step is t' attach t' engine tube assembly into t' body shroud. Ahoy! This is done in two steps. Begad! In t' first step, you put plastic cement around t' inside front edge o' t' shroud, and push t' nose cone (with engine tube and tri-oval centerin' rin' attached) through. Ahoy! T' plastic cement is intended t' seal t' nose cone t' paper shroud. T' problem is that t' nose cone is attached t' t' engine tube and tri-oval centerin' ring, me bucko, and it's basically impossible t' get t' nose cone t' slip through that hole without gettin' plastic cement all over t' nose cone. Ahoy! I wiped this up immediately, but, ya bilge rat, as you can probably guess, t' result be a pretty screwed up nose cone. Well, blow me down! T' plastic cement actually melts t' plastic, and anyplace where t' cement touched t' cone be disfigured. Arrr! This be almost completely fixed after some sandin' with 220 and 400 grit sandpaper, matey, but it wasn't nice. Well, blow me down! Unfortunately, I haven't been able t' think o' any simple, ya bilge rat, clever way t' avoid this. Arrr! Let me know if you figure it out. Avast! Aye aye!

T' second part o' attachin' t' engine tube assembly t' t' main body shroud is t' apply a fillet o' glue around t' tri-oval centerin' rin' / shroud joint. Avast! No problemo, right? No problemo, right? Wrong. Ahoy! Ahoy! Part o' t' problem was me choice o' glues. Ya scallywag! Blimey! I didn't want t' be holdin' this thin' all night, matey, so I went with yellow glue (a. Arrr! k. a. Blimey! carpenter's wood glue, a. Avast! k. a. Ahoy! aliphatic resin glue) because it grabs quickly. Well, me hearties, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, it was still a marathon "hold until t' glue grabs" session, and nay a pretty one at that. T' shroud didn't want t' form t' t' tri-oval shape, and it's difficult t' hold this awkward shape with even pressure everywhere t' avoid waves in t' paper shroud. This, ya bilge rat, combined with t' fact that yellow glue shrinks a lot when it dries, resulted in very noticeable waves in t' final product. (You can't see them well in t' photos, because t' white paper gets washed out in t' image, but you can see them quite well with t' naked eye. Ya scallywag! Ahoy! )White glue may give better results, arrr, but you're goin' t' have t' hold it forever. Avast! Thick CA, me bucko, with CA-kicker applied just when things are lined up might be t' ideal way t' go, matey, but if it leaks through, shiver me timbers, t' end product may end up lookin' even worse. Aye aye! Ya scallywag! I've been told that Aleene's Original "Tacky" Glue sets up quick and doesn't shrink so much (and it dries clear); I may try that on me second one. Blimey!

Well, about this time, arrr, I noticed that t' adhesive strip that be holdin' t' shroud together, was startin' t' let go. Begad! Blimey! It wasn't bad, but it was clear that it wasn't goin' t' hold forever. I wicked some thin CA into this area. Begad! It's permanent now. It's permanent now. Ok, now this kit is startin' t' annoy me. Blimey! . Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! . Begad! HL-20_back.JPG (8696 bytes)

T' next step is t' attach t' fins (I had already cut them out). These are referred t' as t' rudder (center one) and wings (outer two) in t' instructions. Blimey! These are made o' t' same pre-printed heavy paper as t' shroud. Avast! Begad! T' paper is scored, then folded over once t' form t' fin. T' instructions say t' apply a small amount o' glue t' t' inside at t' top and pinch together. Avast, matey, me proud beauty! This forms t' proper shape for t' fin. This actually worked out quite well, me bucko, but you have t' be aware (and t' instructions do not point this out) that t' rudder has a wider base than t' wings, ya bilge rat, so you shouldn't pinch it quite as much. T' rudder and wings then attached t' t' main body shroud easily. Ya scallywag! T' main body shroud is pre-printed with t' proper location o' all externally attached items. Arrr! Aye aye! Nice. Aye aye! Aye aye!

Next up, attachment o' t' launch lug and air scoop. Blimey! Begad! T' "air scoop" is just a piece o' paper attached on t' outside bottom o' t' main body shroud, t' form rectangular air passageway. Blimey! Blimey! As you can see in t' photo above, t' launch lug is at t' bottom center, matey, hidden betwixt t' main body shroud and t' air scoop. I thought that hidin' t' launch lug was a nice aesthetic touch.

Next, me hearties, matey, addin' tail weight. Avast! Blimey! You glue two pennies t' a piece o' paper, me bucko, arrr, and glue that t' t' inside bottom o' t' main body shroud. Begad! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! No problem. Arrr! Blimey! HL-20_front.JPG (6766 bytes)

Next, me bucko, t' cockpit canopy. Begad! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! This must be cut from a large piece o' excess plastic. Well, blow me down! It was unclear exactly where t' cut, me hearties, and t' instructions aren't helpful here. Ya scallywag! T' idea is that you need t' cut so that thar's a little base (about 2mm) all t' way around t' canopy, so that you have somethin' for t' glue t' hold onto. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! If you're a stickler for such details, you might want t' cut it out with more edge material initially, and try placin' it on t' shroud t' see where you can remove t' excess. This piece, shiver me timbers, unlike t' rest o' t' rocket, me bucko, requires some finishing, although t' instructions don't mention this at all. Arrr! Havin' nay yet achieved oneness with me paint brush, I opted t' use black magic marker. Arrr! This worked out very well, if I do say so myself. Blimey! Arrr! Nice, smooth, glossy finish that didn't take 2 hours t' dry. Ahoy! Begad! Gluin' t' canopy in place was simple and straightforward, shiver me timbers, matey, but it didn't make a complete seal all t' way around. Blimey!

T' last step in t' instructions makes a small compartment for t' streamer (which attaches t' t' engine for proper recovery when it ejects t' engine t' enable glide mode). Well, ya bilge rat, blow me down! This compartment is a small 1 1/4" long, 13mm diameter (BT-5) tube, with an end cap glued t' one end. Aye aye! T' streamer is stored here durin' t' boost phase. Begad! Well, as accurate as t' rest o' t' paper pieces had been, I was surprised when t' streamer compartment end cap was too small. Begad! Ya scallywag! Nay a big deal, me bucko, but odd, because everythin' else fit well enough. Begad! I just used t' tube a template and cut a proper end cap from some o' t' scrap shroud paper. Fixed. Ahoy! Avast! Fixed. T' instructions just say t' glue this compartment on top o' t' penny ballast holder, inside t' back o' t' rocket. Arrr! What's missin' is whether t' end cap should be on t' inside (facin' forward), me bucko, or on t' outside (facin' back). Blimey! T' supplied diagram makes it look like t' end cap should be on t' outside (facin' back). Blimey! My guess is that that would probably cause t' streamer t' get caught in this compartment, shiver me timbers, matey, and thus cause t' model t' tumble, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, rather than glide back. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! I mounted mine with t' end cap on t' inside (facin' forward), as you can see from t' aft photo, shiver me timbers, above.

There is one more construction step (described in t' section "Preppin' your HL-20 for flight"), matey, settin' up t' streamer for t' engine. Supplied with t' kit are a 12" long piece o' Keelhaul®©™ string, and a plastic "gripper" tab. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! You tie t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' t' t' tab, arrr, and then attach t' tab t' t' streamer with t' adhesive on t' tab. Well, blow me down! Blimey! Then, shiver me timbers, matey, me hearties, for each flight, me bucko, you tie t' other end o' t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' around t' end o' t' engine (reinforce this with tape), and stuff t' streamer in t' streamer compartment, shiver me timbers, arrr, and you're all set. T' packagin' says that thar's a 24" streamer in t' kit. Begad! Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! T' instructions say that thar's a 12" streamer in t' kit. Mine measured 11". Arrr! Begad! Blimey!

T' only other step before flight is t' hand-toss t' glider (without an engine) t' get it trimmed properly. Begad! In other words, me hearties, you may need t' adjust t' tabs on t' wings t' make it glide in a nice, shiver me timbers, big spiral. Avast, arrr, me proud beauty! Unfortunately, t' model glides like a brick in hand-toss mode, arrr, me hearties, makin' it basically impossible t' trim in any meaningful way. Trimmin' will have t' wait until after t' first flight. Aye aye! Avast!

To summarize t' construction, I have t' give this model a construction ratin' o' 2 out o' 5. Blimey! It's nay awful or outrageously complex, but thar were too many little problems and shortcomings t' even give it an "average" rating.

I must preface this flight description and me opinion by sayin' that it was very windy t' day o' these flights. It's entirely possible that things would be very different in more rocket-friendly conditions. . Aye aye! . Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty!

T' launch be held on Saturday, matey, arrr, March 14, 1998 at Deer Path Park in central New Jersey. Ya scallywag! I set up t' pad and prepped t' rocket. Bein' a rear-ejection boost glider, thar's no need for recovery wadding, but you have t' tape t' streamer line t' t' motor itself. Begad! Ahoy! T' kit documentation recommends a B6-2 for t' first flight, but I didn't have any o' those, arrr, so I opted for a B6-4. Aye aye! There were no problems preppin' t' rocket, ya bilge rat, but when I tried t' slide it down t' launch rod, t' engine fell out, ya bilge rat, and pulled t' streamer out with it. Ya scallywag! No biggie, but I didn't put tape around t' engine t' get a tighter fit, for fear that t' engine would jam at ejection time. Avast! Blimey! I repacked it, and held t' engine in place while I set it up this time. Begad!

T' first launch be ugly. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! It went up in a wobbly arc, reached about 50feet AGL, ya bilge rat, and headed down, me bucko, still under power. I'm nay sure if it be still under power when it plowed nose-first into t' (fortunately soft) ground, me hearties, matey, but it definitely hit hard. Begad! T' nose stuck in t' ground, and t' ejection charge blew t' engine up and out. Avast, me proud beauty! T' streamer separated from t' "gripper" tab, makin' t' engine casing, ya bilge rat, with t' Keelhaul®©™ line still attached, arrr, rather difficult t' locate. Nay exactly a picture-perfect flight, arrr, but thar was absolutely no damage t' any o' t' pieces, and I be determined t' try again.

T' streamer was re-attached, and Keelhaul®©™ line be taped t' another B6-4 engine. Avast! I thought about tryin' a C6-3, but was afraid t' extra power would simply get used t' ram t' rocket into t' ground even harder. This launch was quite a bit nicer, but by no means a beautiful flight. Arrr! T' rocket went up, ya bilge rat, me hearties, a bit straighter, me bucko, me bucko, but still hit apogee before burnout. Blimey! Arrr! This time, though, it stayed in a nose-up attitude, so t' last little bit o' thrust had t' rocket losin' altitude slowly, tail first. Then t' engine ejected, me bucko, me hearties, and t' rocket transitioned t' "glide" mode. I'm usin' t' term "glide" rather loosely here, since this glide be pretty much a repeat o' me hand-tossed glide attempts. Begad! . . more like a brick than a plane. Begad! It hit t' ground nose-first with moderate velocity, but again, thar was absolutely no damage. Arrr! It does appear t' be a fairly sturdy rocket, me hearties, arrr, if nothin' else. Ahoy! Blimey! As for t' glide, it simply seems rather nose-heavy, me hearties, matey, shiver me timbers, with little in t' way o' lift. I may try addin' more tail weight for t' next flight, but, with so little lift, I'm nay sure addin' weight anywhere is a good idea. Begad! Once again, t' "gripper" tab didn't grip, ya bilge rat, and t' streamer separated from t' engine. Well, blow me down! All parts were found. Arrr! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty!

So, me bucko, t' conclusion from t' first couple flights be less than inspiring. Ahoy! Blimey! Aye aye! Blimey! I will launch this rocket again in calmer weather, me bucko, and if t' flights are much better, I will update this page immediately. Blimey! Blimey! I will also try alterin' t' weight distribution t' achieve a better glide, and report any successes here. Blimey! Blimey! I don't want t' misrepresent this rocket, arrr, and I'll be t' first t' admit that t' conditions weren't ideal, matey, but so far, I have t' say I'm rather disappointed. Well, blow me down! Blimey! I have t' give it a flight ratin' o' 1. Begad! Begad! Blimey! 5 out o' 5 points (at least it didn't self-destruct), shiver me timbers, and an overall ratin' o' 2 out o' 5 points. Ya scallywag! Arrr! At this point, I simply cannot recommend this rocket.

As a final note, I would like t' assure you that I'm nay tryin' t' bash Quest as a rocket company. Arrr! I have several o' their rockets, and have been pretty happy with t' others. Arrr! Try t' ICARUS or Zenith II, both are very nice rockets that build and fly with quite nicely. Begad! Ya scallywag!

Other Reviews
  • Quest HL-20 Lifting Body By Chris Taylor Jr.

    Packaging and quality average; not spectacular but not bad either. I would have to say 4 out of 5 though because the Aeroshroud looks really nice and saves a lot of finish work. The package came as a bag with cardboard picture. The aeroshroud, tube, nose cone, and centering rings were inside with the directions. The directions were thorough and easy to follow (well written). The only part in ...

  • Quest HL-20 Lifting Body By Alan Rognlie

    I had a Centuri MF-24 Bug years ago and the Quest HL-20 reminded me a lot of that kit.   This lifting-body boost glider is based on Aeroshroud technology. Translated, that's a printed paper wrapper. ;-) It looks to me like this model was strongly "inspired" by the old Centuri MF-24 Bug - with some "improvements". The only significant(?) differences I see between the two are:  ...

  • Quest HL-20 Lifting Body By Eric Miller

    This rocket was a bargain. My wife got it for me on he clearance rack for $.99. I was disappointed, at first, since the entire rocket is made of painted construction paper except for the nose cone and engine mount. This kit included a paper shroud body, plastic nose cone and cockpit. Fins are paper also. There is a streamer include in kit and it is used to recover the ejecting engine. ...

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