T' Quest X-30 Aerospace plane caught me eye, matey, and it was on sale at Magnum for $4. 50, but I was a little wary o' t' paper shroud construction. Ya scallywag! Blimey!   Well, t' Quest HL-20 uses paper shroud construction, ya bilge rat, too, arrr, and it was also on sale, for $2. 50, and it's supposed t' be easier. I figured I'd try t' HL-20 as an introduction t' paper shroud construction. Aye aye! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! (I got two o' each just in case. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! )

Construction started out well. Ya scallywag! Blimey! It starts by attachin' t' tri-oval centerin' disk t' t' engine tube, gluin' a shoulder t' t' nose cone, arrr, gluin' t' nose cone + shoulder on t' tube, and gluin' in t' engine block. Blimey! Blimey! About t' only hint here is t' use an 18mm engine casin' cut around t' nose cone positionin' disk. Aye aye! Blimey! It was very thoughtful o' Quest t' provide an empty 18mm engine casin' (intended for use in pushin' in t' engine block). Blimey! Nice touch.

Next came t' main body shroud. Begad! This is made o' heavy paper, with t' design already printed on it. Ahoy! Begad! (No painting, ya bilge rat, yeah!) I took me time and was very careful when cuttin' out t' shroud, and had no problems with it. Blimey! Begad! T' shroud paper comes rolled up in an oval shape in t' kit, so it does nay immediate roll itself into t' desired shape. Avast, me proud beauty! T' instructions suggest layin' t' shroud printed side down and usin' a steam iron on it t' flatten it out. But, matey, o' course, me bucko, you don't want it flat, me bucko, so I chose t' roll it up close t' it's intended shape, matey, and hold it in place with rubber bands while I cut out t' rest o' t' paper pieces. That went fine. Ahoy!

And then came t' moment o' truth. Aye aye! . Arrr! . Well, blow me down! time t' put t' shroud together, permanently. Arrr! Provided in t' kit for this purpose, me hearties, matey, ya bilge rat, is a strip o' double-sided adhesive. T' idea is t' peel back t' coverin' on one side o' t' adhesive strip, ya bilge rat, place that on t' tab o' t' shroud, matey, then peel off t' coverin' on t' 2nd side, and finally attach t' other edge o' t' shroud. Despite some problems gettin' t' coverings off t' adhesive, this actually worked quite well. Ya scallywag! It took care, matey, but be nay particularly difficult t' get t' shroud edges lined up and held in place. Whew. Begad! Whew. Ya scallywag! It's all downhill from here. Begad! Well, blow me down! . Ya scallywag! . Blimey! right?

Nope. Well, matey, blow me down! T' trouble be just beginning. Ahoy! T' next step is t' attach t' engine tube assembly into t' body shroud. This is done in two steps. Avast! In t' first step, you put plastic cement around t' inside front edge o' t' shroud, shiver me timbers, matey, and push t' nose cone (with engine tube and tri-oval centerin' rin' attached) through. T' plastic cement is intended t' seal t' nose cone t' paper shroud. Ahoy! Ahoy! T' problem is that t' nose cone is attached t' t' engine tube and tri-oval centerin' ring, and it's basically impossible t' get t' nose cone t' slip through that hole without gettin' plastic cement all over t' nose cone. Begad! I wiped this up immediately, shiver me timbers, but, matey, as you can probably guess, shiver me timbers, t' result was a pretty screwed up nose cone. Avast, me proud beauty! T' plastic cement actually melts t' plastic, matey, and anyplace where t' cement touched t' cone was disfigured. Avast! This was almost completely fixed after some sandin' with 220 and 400 grit sandpaper, me bucko, but it wasn't nice. Unfortunately, matey, I haven't been able t' think o' any simple, me hearties, me hearties, clever way t' avoid this. Begad! Let me know if you figure it out. Avast!

T' second part o' attachin' t' engine tube assembly t' t' main body shroud is t' apply a fillet o' glue around t' tri-oval centerin' rin' / shroud joint. Avast, me hearties, me proud beauty! Blimey! No problemo, right? No problemo, arrr, matey, right? Wrong. Part o' t' problem was me choice o' glues. Blimey! Blimey! I didn't want t' be holdin' this thin' all night, ya bilge rat, arrr, so I went with yellow glue (a. k. Begad! Blimey! a. Ahoy! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! carpenter's wood glue, arrr, a. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! k. Blimey! Blimey! Avast, shiver me timbers, me proud beauty! Blimey! a. Begad! Blimey! Well, blow me down! Blimey! aliphatic resin glue) because it grabs quickly. Well, matey, it be still a marathon "hold until t' glue grabs" session, matey, and nay a pretty one at that. Arrr! Blimey! T' shroud didn't want t' form t' t' tri-oval shape, and it's difficult t' hold this awkward shape with even pressure everywhere t' avoid waves in t' paper shroud. Blimey! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! This, combined with t' fact that yellow glue shrinks a lot when it dries, shiver me timbers, resulted in very noticeable waves in t' final product. Well, matey, blow me down! Blimey! (You can't see them well in t' photos, shiver me timbers, because t' white paper gets washed out in t' image, arrr, but you can see them quite well with t' naked eye. Arrr! Blimey! )White glue may give better results, but you're goin' t' have t' hold it forever. Aye aye! Blimey! Thick CA, arrr, with CA-kicker applied just when things are lined up might be t' ideal way t' go, but if it leaks through, arrr, t' end product may end up lookin' even worse. I've been told that Aleene's Original "Tacky" Glue sets up quick and doesn't shrink so much (and it dries clear); I may try that on me second one. Arrr!

Well, ya bilge rat, matey, about this time, I noticed that t' adhesive strip that was holdin' t' shroud together, was startin' t' let go. It wasn't bad, me hearties, but it was clear that it wasn't goin' t' hold forever. I wicked some thin CA into this area. It's permanent now. It's permanent now. Well, blow me down! Ok, ya bilge rat, arrr, now this kit is startin' t' annoy me. Begad! Avast! . Avast! Begad! . Begad!

T' next step is t' attach t' fins (I had already cut them out). Well, blow me down! Begad! These are referred t' as t' rudder (center one) and wings (outer two) in t' instructions. Blimey! These are made o' t' same pre-printed heavy paper as t' shroud. Blimey! T' paper is scored, then folded over once t' form t' fin. T' instructions say t' apply a small amount o' glue t' t' inside at t' top and pinch together. Well, blow me down! This forms t' proper shape for t' fin. Arrr! This actually worked out quite well, but you have t' be aware (and t' instructions do not point this out) that t' rudder has a wider base than t' wings, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, so you shouldn't pinch it quite as much. T' rudder and wings then attached t' t' main body shroud easily. T' main body shroud is pre-printed with t' proper location o' all externally attached items. Ya scallywag! Nice. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag!

Next up, attachment o' t' launch lug and air scoop. Blimey! T' "air scoop" is just a piece o' paper attached on t' outside bottom o' t' main body shroud, t' form rectangular air passageway. As you can see in t' photo above, t' launch lug is at t' bottom center, matey, hidden betwixt t' main body shroud and t' air scoop. Well, blow me down! I thought that hidin' t' launch lug was a nice aesthetic touch.

Next, me bucko, addin' tail weight. Begad! You glue two pennies t' a piece o' paper, and glue that t' t' inside bottom o' t' main body shroud. Avast! Arrr! No problem. Arrr!

Next, ya bilge rat, t' cockpit canopy. Ya scallywag! Blimey! This must be cut from a large piece o' excess plastic. Begad! Blimey! Begad! Blimey! It was unclear exactly where t' cut, and t' instructions aren't helpful here. Aye aye! Blimey! T' idea is that you need t' cut so that thar's a little base (about 2mm) all t' way around t' canopy, ya bilge rat, so that you have somethin' for t' glue t' hold onto. Aye aye! Blimey! If you're a stickler for such details, me bucko, you might want t' cut it out with more edge material initially, me hearties, matey, and try placin' it on t' shroud t' see where you can remove t' excess. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Ahoy! Blimey! This piece, me bucko, unlike t' rest o' t' rocket, ya bilge rat, me bucko, requires some finishing, although t' instructions don't mention this at all. Arrr! Blimey! Arrr! Blimey! Havin' nay yet achieved oneness with me paint brush, ya bilge rat, I opted t' use black magic marker. This worked out very well, if I do say so myself. Nice, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, smooth, me bucko, glossy finish that didn't take 2 hours t' dry. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! Gluin' t' canopy in place was simple and straightforward, arrr, but it didn't make a complete seal all t' way around. Aye aye! Blimey!

T' last step in t' instructions makes a small compartment for t' streamer (which attaches t' t' engine for proper recovery when it ejects t' engine t' enable glide mode). Avast! This compartment is a small 1 1/4" long, arrr, matey, 13mm diameter (BT-5) tube, with an end cap glued t' one end. Ya scallywag! T' streamer is stored here durin' t' boost phase. Well, shiver me timbers, as accurate as t' rest o' t' paper pieces had been, me bucko, I be surprised when t' streamer compartment end cap was too small. Nay a big deal, but odd, because everythin' else fit well enough. Avast, me proud beauty! I just used t' tube a template and cut a proper end cap from some o' t' scrap shroud paper. Avast! Fixed. Avast! Begad! Fixed. T' instructions just say t' glue this compartment on top o' t' penny ballast holder, arrr, inside t' back o' t' rocket. Begad! Ahoy! What's missin' is whether t' end cap should be on t' inside (facin' forward), or on t' outside (facin' back). Avast, me proud beauty! Begad! T' supplied diagram makes it look like t' end cap should be on t' outside (facin' back). Begad! My guess is that that would probably cause t' streamer t' get caught in this compartment, and thus cause t' model t' tumble, rather than glide back. Avast! I mounted mine with t' end cap on t' inside (facin' forward), as you can see from t' aft photo, matey, above. Begad!

There is one more construction step (described in t' section "Preppin' your HL-20 for flight"), ya bilge rat, settin' up t' streamer for t' engine. Ahoy! Supplied with t' kit are a 12" long piece o' Keelhaul®©™ string, arrr, and a plastic "gripper" tab. Ahoy! Avast! You tie t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' t' t' tab, and then attach t' tab t' t' streamer with t' adhesive on t' tab. Blimey! Then, for each flight, me bucko, you tie t' other end o' t' Keelhaul®©™ strin' around t' end o' t' engine (reinforce this with tape), arrr, and stuff t' streamer in t' streamer compartment, and you're all set. T' packagin' says that thar's a 24" streamer in t' kit. Ahoy! T' instructions say that thar's a 12" streamer in t' kit. Arrr! Mine measured 11". Avast!

T' only other step before flight is t' hand-toss t' glider (without an engine) t' get it trimmed properly. In other words, matey, you may need t' adjust t' tabs on t' wings t' make it glide in a nice, big spiral. Unfortunately, t' model glides like a brick in hand-toss mode, makin' it basically impossible t' trim in any meaningful way. Trimmin' will have t' wait until after t' first flight. Aye aye! Blimey! Blimey! Blimey!

To summarize t' construction, ya bilge rat, me hearties, I have t' give this model a construction ratin' o' 2 out o' 5. Arrr! It's nay awful or outrageously complex, but thar were too many little problems and shortcomings t' even give it an "average" rating. Avast!

I must preface this flight description and me opinion by sayin' that it was very windy t' day o' these flights. Aye aye! It's entirely possible that things would be very different in more rocket-friendly conditions. Blimey! . Aye aye! .

T' launch was held on Saturday, March 14, matey, me hearties, 1998 at Deer Path Park in central New Jersey. Blimey! I set up t' pad and prepped t' rocket. Begad! Bein' a rear-ejection boost glider, me bucko, thar's no need for recovery wadding, me hearties, but you have t' tape t' streamer line t' t' motor itself. T' kit documentation recommends a B6-2 for t' first flight, but I didn't have any o' those, so I opted for a B6-4. Blimey! There were no problems preppin' t' rocket, me hearties, but when I tried t' slide it down t' launch rod, ya bilge rat, arrr, t' engine fell out, matey, and pulled t' streamer out with it. Well, me bucko, blow me down! No biggie, me hearties, but I didn't put tape around t' engine t' get a tighter fit, ya bilge rat, for fear that t' engine would jam at ejection time. I repacked it, me hearties, and held t' engine in place while I set it up this time. Aye aye!

T' first launch be ugly. Avast! It went up in a wobbly arc, reached about 50feet AGL, me bucko, and headed down, shiver me timbers, still under power. I'm nay sure if it be still under power when it plowed nose-first into t' (fortunately soft) ground, but it definitely hit hard. Ahoy! T' nose stuck in t' ground, me hearties, and t' ejection charge blew t' engine up and out. Arrr! Blimey! T' streamer separated from t' "gripper" tab, makin' t' engine casing, ya bilge rat, with t' Keelhaul®©™ line still attached, rather difficult t' locate. Nay exactly a picture-perfect flight, arrr, but thar was absolutely no damage t' any o' t' pieces, and I was determined t' try again. Ahoy! Ya scallywag!

T' streamer was re-attached, and Keelhaul®©™ line was taped t' another B6-4 engine. Aye aye! Well, shiver me timbers, blow me down! I thought about tryin' a C6-3, but was afraid t' extra power would simply get used t' ram t' rocket into t' ground even harder. Avast, me proud beauty! This launch be quite a bit nicer, me bucko, but by no means a beautiful flight. Avast, me proud beauty! T' rocket went up, matey, a bit straighter, but still hit apogee before burnout. Well, blow me down! This time, though, it stayed in a nose-up attitude, so t' last little bit o' thrust had t' rocket losin' altitude slowly, ya bilge rat, tail first. Arrr! Then t' engine ejected, ya bilge rat, me bucko, and t' rocket transitioned t' "glide" mode. Ya scallywag! I'm usin' t' term "glide" rather loosely here, since this glide be pretty much a repeat o' me hand-tossed glide attempts. . . Ya scallywag! more like a brick than a plane. Begad! It hit t' ground nose-first with moderate velocity, ya bilge rat, but again, thar was absolutely no damage. It does appear t' be a fairly sturdy rocket, ya bilge rat, if nothin' else. Arrr! As for t' glide, arrr, it simply seems rather nose-heavy, with little in t' way o' lift. I may try addin' more tail weight for t' next flight, matey, but, with so little lift, I'm nay sure addin' weight anywhere is a good idea. Once again, t' "gripper" tab didn't grip, me hearties, and t' streamer separated from t' engine. Arrr! Well, blow me down! All parts were found.

So, ya bilge rat, t' conclusion from t' first couple flights was less than inspiring. I will launch this rocket again in calmer weather, matey, shiver me timbers, and if t' flights are much better, me hearties, me bucko, I will update this page immediately. I will also try alterin' t' weight distribution t' achieve a better glide, matey, and report any successes here. Avast, me proud beauty! I don't want t' misrepresent this rocket, arrr, shiver me timbers, and I'll be t' first t' admit that t' conditions weren't ideal, ya bilge rat, but so far, I have t' say I'm rather disappointed. Aye aye! Blimey! I have t' give it a flight ratin' o' 1. 5 out o' 5 points (at least it didn't self-destruct), and an overall ratin' o' 2 out o' 5 points. Well, blow me down! At this point, I simply cannot recommend this rocket. Begad! Avast, arrr, me proud beauty!

As a final note, I would like t' assure you that I'm nay tryin' t' bash Quest as a rocket company. Begad! I have several o' their rockets, and have been pretty happy with t' others. Try t' ICARUS or Zenith II, shiver me timbers, both are very nice rockets that build and fly with quite nicely. Avast! Avast, me proud beauty!