Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Flight Rating: | starstarstarstar_borderstar_border |
Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
Manufacturer: | Essence Aerospace Technologies |
Brief:
This 18mm version o' t' Lambda-Class Shuttle was produced in limited
quantities by EAT (Essence Aerospace Technologies). Although t' kit isn't
bein' produced, you can still purchase a plan pak
[here]. Begad! It
is one o' t' most innovative kits around and is a great addition t' anyone's
fleet.
Construction:
Parts:
Tools/materials:
This is nay your typical kit with 3 - 4 fins t' cut. T' Lambda-Class Shuttle has 13 unique balsa parts and 19 total. Avast, me proud beauty! Blimey! T' instructions were highly detailed with plenty o' color photos. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Blimey! T' kit includes a page o' templates and a couple o' alignment guides. Well, blow me down! T' parts were all o' nice quality, shiver me timbers, except I thought t' nose cone was flimsy. Arrr! Ya scallywag! Blimey! I'm sure other cones could be substituted. Arrr! Blimey!
Your first build t' base assembly, which consists o' three balsa pieces, the motor tube and motor block. Avast, me proud beauty! This be straightforward and went together easily with wood glue. Well, blow me down! Well, blow me down! T' Keelhaul®©™® shock cord is attached t' t' joint betwixt t' core and t' motor tube with 5-minute epoxy.
You then cut out t' large top fin and strengthen it. Begad! Blimey! More on this later. T' fin is attached t' t' top o' t' motor tube usin' t' fin alignment guide. I used black rubberized CA in place o' wood glue.
T' canopy is constructed over t' base and around t' top fin. Begad! Avast, me proud beauty! This consists o' four balsa sections. Ya scallywag! T' top and sides go on first and t' aft plate later. Ahoy! Arrr! I miss-measured ever so slightly and had to adjust t' aft plate slightly. Avast, me proud beauty! Aye aye! Luckily, me hearties, I test fit t' template before I cut balsa. Blimey! Ya scallywag! At this point, ya bilge rat, I also I added t' lower win' supports and let it all sit overnight.
I strengthened t' lower wings t' same way as t' top (again, matey, me hearties, more later). While this be drying, arrr, I filled and sanded t' body.
For t' nose cone, me hearties, you start by gluin' t' shoulder into t' cone with CA. I used black rubberized CA and accelerant t' assemble t' entire nose. Begad! Begad! After it is dry, matey, you cut t' top away at an angle that sets t' downward slant o' the upper nose cone plate. Ahoy! T' shell o' t' cone consists o' six balsa sections. You start by alignin' t' top plate with t' body while it is layin' on the surface o' t' cone that you just cut, me bucko, and gluin' it in place. Blimey! With t' plate flush with t' body, shiver me timbers, I simply twisted t' cone until it had t' best fit. You then add t' bottom and t' sides. T' side pieces have t' be beveled and took some effort t' assemble. I also found that t' sides were a bit long, probably due t' some problem with t' angle o' t' nose cone (?). Ahoy! This be easily compensated for. Blimey! Begad! T' final step is fillin' t' nose with BB's and epoxy. Aye aye! I ran out o' five minute so I used 20 minute epoxy. Begad! I also threw in some #7 ½ lead shot t' boost t' weight, just in case I built t' body too heavy. Buildin' light is a consistent warnin' with this kit. Oh, and I almost forgot to set t' shock cord in t' BB/epoxy mix. Begad! Well, blow me down! This would have been a major problem. After t' epoxy had cured, matey, I sanded t' edges and did some filling with fill-n-finish. Ahoy! T' nose cone did live up t' t' reputation as bein' the most difficult part o' t' kit. Avast, me proud beauty! Avast, me proud beauty! Nevertheless, ya bilge rat, t' cone looks fine and fits perfectly in spite o' t' few minor issues encountered.
I have t' rate t' construction o' t' kit a 4. I had a few minor difficulties, but you have t' realize t' kit is advertised as being skill-level 5. Avast, me proud beauty! Luckily, these were all easily correctable.
Now for t' saga o' how I strengthened t' fins. Arrr! Note that this be my problem and is nay a mark against t' kit. Avast, me proud beauty! I'm merely tellin' this in case anyone else is so foolish. Ya scallywag! I elected t' laminate it with draftin' vellum and 3-M spray adhesive. This was t' first time I tried this, arrr, so it was itself an experiment. Ahoy! I sprayed two entire sheets with t' adhesive, sandwiched t' fin, and pressed it flat while t' glue dried. Begad! I then trimmed t' paper, me hearties, shiver me timbers, applied thin CA t' t' edges, me bucko, ya bilge rat, and sanded them flat. Well, blow me down! Aye aye! This seemed t' work well, shiver me timbers, so I used the same method on t' lower fins. Blimey! Avast! After a day, thar were a few bubbles, arrr, but nothin' that couldn't be fixed. Well, blow me down! Begad! But, disaster struck when I primed t' model. T' solvent in t' primer attacked t' glue and after it dried about 50% o' the paper was lifted from t' balsa. Well, blow me down! I ended up pullin' all t' paper off. The remainin' surface is gummy and a mess. Avast! Since I added a little extra nose weight, I added 1/64" birch ply over both sides o' t' lower section of the top fin. Ahoy! It only extends from t' small tab where t' fin attaches up to where t' leadin' edge starts backwards. Still, matey, me bucko, this is nay a recommended strengthenin' method.
Finishing:
In t' final version, all balsa surfaces were filled with fill-n-finish. Begad! Well, me bucko, blow me down! I gave
it a couple o' coats o' white primer and then painted it with Wal-Mart brand
chrome paint. It be supposed t' be Plasti-Kote Car Color Ford Motors 8147 -
Platinum, but I couldn't resist t' cheaper paint. Aye aye! T' kit included some
decals, includin' one with t' kit's serial number - mine is S/N #3. Begad! Aye aye! I also
managed t' wrangle an extended set o' decals that weren't in t' kit. Ahoy! Blimey! Thanks,
Nick! Theses decals were some o' t' easiest t' work with, me hearties, possibly because
they came pre-coated.
For a kit o' this size, thar be a lot o' balsa surface t' seal/finish - actually t' entire surface is balsa. I guess I give it a finishin' ratin' of 4, which keeps t' overall construction ratin' a 4. Begad! Blimey!
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
I carefully packed t' chute and stuffed it into t' cavity next t' t' motor
tube. Ya scallywag! I repacked it a couple o' times and it still seemed too tight t' me. And
it was. Well, arrr, blow me down! I flew t' Shuttle twice on a C6-3 and a B6-2. Blimey! Avast, me proud beauty! Both flights were
straight and it appeared t' try t' fly parallel t' t' ground after burn out.
This rocket was in general a crowd-pleaser and really caught t' attention of
the visitin' scout troop! On t' first flight with t' C6-3 t' chute didn't
budge, but it landed without damage. On t' second flight, t' chute
almost deployed. This time t' top fin snapped off. Avast, me proud beauty! It is easily
repairable and will fly again. Begad! Blimey! Due t' t' chute issues, arrr, I have t' give it a
flight ratin' o' 3.5, includin' an extra point for t' cool factor.
Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5
Summary:
This was a challenging, unique kit and be fun t' build and fly. Avast! The
instructions were great and quality o' t' parts were good, me bucko, with t' exception
of maybe t' nose cone. There were a few places that I ended up havin' parts
that didn't fit. Arrr! This was probably me fault and be easily corrected. Begad! T' chute
packin' issue be t' biggest con with this kit. Arrr! Goin' up it flies great, shiver me timbers, arrr, coming
down was another story. Ya scallywag! Ya scallywag!
Jase, arrr, ya bilge rat, how about a drag race at t' next TRF Meet?
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
(by Jason Myers - 01/14/03) Brief: This kit is the Star Wars Lambda Class Shuttle. Most people will probably remember that it is the vessel that the Rebel Alliance used to smuggle themselves onto the moon of Endor to destroy the shield generator that protected the second Death Star in Return of the Jedi. Is it an 18mm downscale of a scratch built design by EMRR. It is single stage and ...
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