| Construction Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
| Flight Rating: | starstarstarstar_borderstar_border |
| Overall Rating: | starstarstarstarstar_border |
| Manufacturer: | Essence Aerospace Technologies |
Brief:
This 18mm version o' t' Lambda-Class Shuttle was produced in limited
quantities by EAT (Essence Aerospace Technologies). Although t' kit isn't
bein' produced, you can still purchase a plan pak
[here]. Blimey! Well, blow me down! It
is one o' t' most innovative kits around and is a great addition t' anyone's
fleet.
Construction:
Parts:
Tools/materials:
This is nay your typical kit with 3 - 4 fins t' cut. Avast, me proud beauty! T' Lambda-Class Shuttle has 13 unique balsa parts and 19 total. Blimey! Ahoy! T' instructions were highly detailed with plenty o' color photos. Begad! Aye aye! T' kit includes a page o' templates and a couple o' alignment guides. Begad! T' parts were all o' nice quality, except I thought t' nose cone was flimsy. Begad! Begad! I'm sure other cones could be substituted.
Your first build t' base assembly, me bucko, which consists o' three balsa pieces, the motor tube and motor block. Aye aye! Well, arrr, blow me down! This was straightforward and went together easily with wood glue. Ya scallywag! Begad! T' Keelhaul®©™® shock cord is attached t' t' joint betwixt t' core and t' motor tube with 5-minute epoxy.
You then cut out t' large top fin and strengthen it. More on this later. T' fin is attached t' t' top o' t' motor tube usin' t' fin alignment guide. I used black rubberized CA in place o' wood glue.
T' canopy is constructed over t' base and
around t' top fin. This consists o' four balsa sections. Avast! T' top and sides go
on first and t' aft plate later. Arrr! Well, blow me down! I miss-measured ever so slightly and had to
adjust t' aft plate slightly. Blimey! Luckily, I test fit t' template before I cut
balsa. Begad! At this point, me hearties, I also I added t' lower win' supports and let it all sit
overnight.
I strengthened t' lower wings t' same way as t' top (again, more later). While this be drying, I filled and sanded t' body.
For t' nose cone, ya bilge rat, me hearties, you start by gluin' t' shoulder into t' cone with CA. I used black rubberized CA and accelerant t' assemble t' entire nose. Well, blow me down! After it is dry, shiver me timbers, ya bilge rat, matey, you cut t' top away at an angle that sets t' downward slant o' the upper nose cone plate. T' shell o' t' cone consists o' six balsa sections. You start by alignin' t' top plate with t' body while it is layin' on the surface o' t' cone that you just cut, and gluin' it in place. Ahoy! With t' plate flush with t' body, I simply twisted t' cone until it had t' best fit. Avast! Begad! You then add t' bottom and t' sides. Ahoy! Begad! T' side pieces have t' be beveled and took some effort t' assemble. Arrr! I also found that t' sides were a bit long, arrr, arrr, ya bilge rat, probably due t' some problem with t' angle o' t' nose cone (?). Ya scallywag! This be easily compensated for. Blimey! T' final step is fillin' t' nose with BB's and epoxy. Well, blow me down! I ran out o' five minute so I used 20 minute epoxy. Ahoy! Begad! I also threw in some #7 ½ lead shot t' boost t' weight, ya bilge rat, arrr, just in case I built t' body too heavy. Buildin' light is a consistent batten down t' hatches with this kit. Begad! Oh, me bucko, and I almost forgot to set t' shock cord in t' BB/epoxy mix. This would have been a major problem. After t' epoxy had cured, matey, I sanded t' edges and did some filling with fill-n-finish. Aye aye! T' nose cone did live up t' t' reputation as bein' the most difficult part o' t' kit. Well, blow me down! Nevertheless, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, t' cone looks fine and fits perfectly in spite o' t' few minor issues encountered.
I have t' rate t' construction o' t' kit a 4. Avast! Well, blow me down! Blimey! I had a few minor difficulties, me hearties, but you have t' realize t' kit is advertised as being skill-level 5. Ya scallywag! Luckily, me hearties, these were all easily correctable.
Now for t' saga o' how I strengthened t' fins. Note that this be my problem and is nay a mark against t' kit. I'm merely tellin' this in case anyone else is so foolish. Ahoy! I elected t' laminate it with draftin' vellum and 3-M spray adhesive. Begad! Blimey! This be t' first time I tried this, matey, ya bilge rat, so it be itself an experiment. I sprayed two entire sheets with t' adhesive, sandwiched t' fin, and pressed it flat while t' glue dried. I then trimmed t' paper, matey, applied thin CA t' t' edges, and sanded them flat. This seemed t' work well, me hearties, so I used the same method on t' lower fins. After a day, thar were a few bubbles, me hearties, but nothin' that couldn't be fixed. Arrr! Avast, me proud beauty! But, disaster struck when I primed t' model. T' solvent in t' primer attacked t' glue and after it dried about 50% o' the paper be lifted from t' balsa. I ended up pullin' all t' paper off. Begad! The remainin' surface is gummy and a mess. Ahoy! Begad! Since I added a little extra nose weight, shiver me timbers, I added 1/64" birch ply over both sides o' t' lower section of the top fin. Aye aye! It only extends from t' small tab where t' fin attaches up to where t' leadin' edge starts backwards. Blimey! Still, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, ya bilge rat, this is nay a recommended strengthenin' method. Blimey!
Finishing:
In t' final version, all balsa surfaces were filled with fill-n-finish. Avast! Blimey! I gave
it a couple o' coats o' white primer and then painted it with Wal-Mart brand
chrome paint. Avast, me proud beauty! It was supposed t' be Plasti-Kote Car Color Ford Motors 8147 -
Platinum, but I couldn't resist t' cheaper paint. Well, blow me down! T' kit included some
decals, ya bilge rat, includin' one with t' kit's serial number - mine is S/N #3. Ya scallywag! Avast! I also
managed t' wrangle an extended set o' decals that weren't in t' kit. Avast, me proud beauty! Thanks,
Nick! Theses decals were some o' t' easiest t' work with, possibly because
they came pre-coated.
For a kit o' this size, thar be a lot o' balsa surface t' seal/finish - actually t' entire surface is balsa. Blimey! Blimey! I guess I give it a finishin' ratin' of 4, which keeps t' overall construction ratin' a 4. Avast! Blimey!
Construction Rating: 4 out o' 5
Flight:
I carefully packed t' chute and stuffed it into t' cavity next t' t' motor
tube. Avast! I repacked it a couple o' times and it still seemed too tight t' me. Well, me hearties, blow me down! And
it was. Ya scallywag! I flew t' Shuttle twice on a C6-3 and a B6-2. Well, blow me down! Ya scallywag! Both flights were
straight and it appeared t' try t' fly parallel t' t' ground after burn out.
This rocket was in general a crowd-pleaser and really caught t' attention of
the visitin' scout troop! On t' first flight with t' C6-3 t' chute didn't
budge, but it landed without damage. Well, blow me down! On t' second flight, t' chute
almost deployed. This time t' top fin snapped off. Well, me bucko, blow me down! It is easily
repairable and will fly again. Avast! Due t' t' chute issues, I have t' give it a
flight ratin' o' 3.5, includin' an extra point for t' cool factor.
Flight Rating: 3 out o' 5
Summary:
This be a challenging, unique kit and was fun t' build and fly. Avast! The
instructions were great and quality o' t' parts were good, with t' exception
of maybe t' nose cone. There were a few places that I ended up havin' parts
that didn't fit. Ya scallywag! Well, blow me down! This be probably me fault and was easily corrected. Ahoy! T' chute
packin' issue be t' biggest con with this kit. Ahoy! Arrr! Goin' up it flies great, coming
down be another story. Begad! Begad!
Jase, ya bilge rat, shiver me timbers, how about a drag race at t' next TRF Meet?
Overall Rating: 4 out o' 5
(by Jason Myers - 01/14/03) Brief: This kit is the Star Wars Lambda Class Shuttle. Most people will probably remember that it is the vessel that the Rebel Alliance used to smuggle themselves onto the moon of Endor to destroy the shield generator that protected the second Death Star in Return of the Jedi. Is it an 18mm downscale of a scratch built design by EMRR. It is single stage and ...
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